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Some Advice Please


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#41 kalbfellp

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 11:15 PM

!/8" bit is the way to go IF you can get one. 3mm is just too small and you will have problems. My track is routed with a 4mm bit as I wanted to use 4mm plastic strip as a guide for the other lanes and needed it to go into the slot. The 4mm slot does work fine.

#42 munter

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 06:02 AM

Quote

3mm is just too small and you will have problems.
Phil I have routed two tracks with a 3mm slot.....no problems eventuated.

For my latest track I wanted braid so I went the extra 0.175mm and bought the 1/8 bit so the recess cutter would work.

Roath..go search out a powertool specialist shop, they should have or be able to get a 1/8 straight sidecut bit for you.

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John Warren
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#43 Roath

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 07:09 AM

Thanks Guys.. 1/8 twin flute carbon bit ordered and will pick up tomorrow :sleep2:

#44 kalbfellp

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 08:37 AM

3 mm slot is fine for most RTR cars,but some of the Parma style guides and early Carrera guide will not clear the slot.

#45 munter

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 09:49 AM

View Postkalbfellp, on May 17 2010, 10:46 AM, said:

3 mm slot is fine for most RTR cars,but some of the Parma style guides and early Carrera guide will not clear the slot.


Phil,no problems with any type of guide in my experience and I started with the jet type guide (parma et al)
Maybe with a tight radius or a nasty bit of routing on some tracks there could be.

The issue is not only the thickness of the guide but the length of the guide as well.
Some of the 1/24 ones are getting close to 25mm in blade length.

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John Warren
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#46 kalbfellp

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 11:25 AM

Yes st is the lenght that seems to be the problem,we probably have some tighter corners on our tracks.

#47 gzminiz

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 02:42 PM

the 1mm difference might mean a radius difference of 1cm. I am sure there is a math person that has the time to figure out the max radius for a given length of blade for 3mm and 4mm slot. I have driven on both and found 4mm much different. just seemed like a lot of slop and almost harder to drive. but i am new to so I just might suck (well, i do, but suck to the point that 1mm makes a difference).

I used 1/8th FWIW

#48 Roath

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 12:48 PM

Picked up the router bit today and some polycarbinate for making new router bases.

A new question.. when routing corners.. is it OK to have the guide on the inside.. It doesn't feel as stable as when you have the router pushing 'out' into the guide.

I guess I will try tonight on some scrap and find out for myself!

#49 munter

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 01:07 PM

View PostRoath, on May 18 2010, 02:57 PM, said:

Picked up the router bit today and some polycarbinate for making new router bases.

A new question.. when routing corners.. is it OK to have the guide on the inside.. It doesn't feel as stable as when you have the router pushing 'out' into the guide.

I guess I will try tonight on some scrap and find out for myself!


Use the router from left to right.
I have routed sections where the router is up against the inside and then the outside of the guide strip.
My router has a circular base for most of its circumference so a little twist has no effect as long as you hold the machine against the guide strip.

Definiitely try a few test pieces before your final attempt.

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#50 Roath

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 06:41 PM

Thanks Munter .. centre lane done with just a few small bits I want to fill and redo.. just need to make some router bases to make the other lanes.

I'm tempted to redo the guide and have non parrallel lines...

#51 Roath

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 05:28 PM

Got some builders bog to fix the slight glitch where I started and stopped..doh!

Got the inside slot done , I found some metal brace strip which comes in long rolls and in short pieces. I found if you lay out a long piece ( I got 4 meters cut) into the slot, then use smaller 300 mill ones to fill the back of the slot , that I got a perfect edge to route against.

I made a rough router base to give me 100 mil gap and did the inside lane in two goes ( this is about 1/3 of the track I guess.

So far so good. Not as messy as I thought!
Spot the few glitches... pushing a car around , I am surprised that the few small wobbles don't seem to affect it at all.

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#52 munter

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 05:52 PM

Quote

Spot the few glitches... pushing a car around , I am surprised that the few small wobbles don't seem to affect it at all.

It is surprising how rude the routing has to be before the cars are affected.
I strived for a smooth line when building my tracks.

Fix your stuff ups before you regret them later on.

Great progress.

regards


ps interesting looking router

Edited by munter, 19 May 2010 - 05:53 PM.

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#53 gzminiz

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 05:57 PM

I used a dremel for places where i didn't quite connect perfectly. Cars can't tell a thing. well, the sudden stop the first time round was shocking to say the least.

Like everyone has said, the cars don't really notice it. Looking good.

#54 Roath

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Posted 22 May 2010 - 06:54 PM

What a difference cutting out the track makes.

I just mocked up the elevations with some boxes... but I think I may need to do some under cutting as I want better elevations than this. What do people use to undercut?

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#55 kalbfellp

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Posted 22 May 2010 - 07:06 PM

I do not under cut, just clamp up the elevation changes using clamps and blocks of wood and then each day add some more blocks and the MDF will hold its shape,a LIGHT spray of water will help.

The elevation changes in my track were don ethis way with 12mm MDF.

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#56 Sports Racer

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Posted 22 May 2010 - 09:19 PM

My track is MDF 16mm thick so I had to undercut to get the elevation change I wanted.

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I used the circular saw set at 8mm deep. This is the first attempt.

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To get a 30cm elevation change across the single piece I ended up doing a cut every 3 cm. Here you can see how close the cuts are under the track.

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This is the corner from underneath. I needed the heavy framework to keep the track bent.

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Cheers

Paul
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#57 kalbfellp

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Posted 22 May 2010 - 10:44 PM

Paul: Just admit it that like building cars you just did not allow enough time to bend the track slowly! :mallet:

Would have thought you would use a :)

#58 munter

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 04:44 AM

Posted Image

I used 12mm mdf and needed a flyover/bridge/turn with an outside edge diameter of 1m.
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#59 Roath

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 05:57 AM

Lots of good examples there.. thanks guys. B)

Sports Racer - 18 mil??? Does it hold up your house??

Munter - as normal you work looks like perfection. I normally want everything just right and will spend ages. However I have seen many examples now of what what looked a little rough here and there, looking perfect once the hills and scenery was added... so I am trying the do it faster approach for a change! That said, I am seeng a some wobbles and cuts not quite right and I'm itching to re do allot of it..

Phil - thanks - thats what I will try. I'll get some clamps and framing today and try clamping it into position graduly.. I may need to do some undercutting to get some of the banking right , but lets see.

3 more sheets of MDF picked up yesterday so I can start on the next pieces while butted up on the ground... then these ones will be free to mount into position :nice:

What I am stressnig a bit now over the slots. I'm worried that I havent done them deep enough. I just did it by sight and checked with a scalectrix car. I read now the slot it cars have much deeper guides.. yikes. Making the slots deeper would be a real pain...

Edited by Roath, 23 May 2010 - 05:59 AM.


#60 SlotsNZ

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 06:30 AM

Roath, the standard guide for Slot.it and everything else except Carrera is only about 6.0 - 6.5mm - the Ninco "Pro-race" guide is about 6.5mm

Slot.it's "Wood guide" is 8mm, but that is not what comes standard on cars, and from our own experience down here in HB, there is only a tiny potential gain, so really not neccessary in your home racing situation. The standard guide on Slot.it's is only 6mm-ish

Also, remember that the pick-up braids underneath the guide will "soak up" about 1mm of the guide blade depth, so as long as you have cut say 5.5mm deep or more, you should be fine.

- just to give you a bit of comparison. - I used think 9mm board for my track as I was trying to keep it light, and I cut 6.5mm depth, and I can more-or-less run a Slot.it wood guide when testing cars, but it scrapes a bit.

If by chance you DO have to do some re-cutting, a base plate in the router with 2 guide pins set only say 300mm leading and trailing the router bit, woukld enable you to re-cut with minimimal tracking error aroiund corners. - -

The "Orakei" track as detailed int he NZPR proxy race series page 1 of the thread, is only a 4.67mm depth! and they get away with that okay.
"Slot width is 2.6mm wide and depth is 4.67mm ie; won't take Slot.it wood guides and the slot.it after market grey and black screw held guides are a bit fat. Ninco pro-guides are fine as are the std guides that come with slot.it cars."

ps, I really like the flow you have around those corners in your design

pps, you can check out munter's work, and a few others with a "weekend away in sunny hawkes bay" with the family . . . . . . :nice:

free slot racing thrown in as a bonus......





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