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Some Advice Please


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#21 gzminiz

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Posted 30 April 2010 - 07:55 PM

I think the eases are fine. Knoath has similar and it is heaps of fun to run in it. 2 or 3 turns that u try to brake late into them to get past. Very similar track.

#22 Roath

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Posted 01 May 2010 - 06:32 AM

Hmmm, I may try opening or rounding them a bit. I'll check the radius this weekend.

I'll be buying some of the MDF this weekend.. whats the thinnest I can go? I read slotnz went 9 mill?

Everyone says go braid.. so I guess I need to. Copper looks so much easier to do and I was determined to use it, but how can I argue with everyone when I have never made or used a routed track!

I'm looking at my bait freezer and thinking it needs a new home so I can add another meter to the track..:huh:

#23 munter

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Posted 01 May 2010 - 08:11 AM

I've built ywo tracks using 9mm mdf.There were places where there was daylight at the bottom of the slot.
As the track was laid on a flat mdf table surface there were no issues.

Trying to manhandle a sheet of mdf by yourself is an intersting exercise....it gets tougher the thicker you go,good luck

If your track is inside a reasonably insulated room/garage/shed copper tape should be OK.

If this is your first build I would recommend a simple track to start with.
If you spend a lot of time on a big track only to find some glaring faults that you want to change.......???
I had a lot of fun with a two laner using two sheets end on end.
The track had two straights and two (really three) corners.

regards
John Warren
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#24 kalbfellp

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Posted 01 May 2010 - 08:40 AM

I would only use 12mm MDF. The 9mm is just too thin,you end up having to either use more bracing or putting the hole track on a table. So you end up with a heavy construction any how. 12mm can be simply framed up with pine and legs added. My last track was 12mm framed with 25 x 50 pine BUT the new one is framed with 32 x 65 pine and legs added.
9mm is great for rally track that require lots of steep elevation changes. Remember you are going try and route a 8mm deep slot in it!!

#25 gzminiz

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Posted 01 May 2010 - 09:24 AM

I did copper tape as it was my first and didn't want to invest in taping in case it sucked. Tape is far cheaper then braid. If you stick to the hints and tried and true designs you will have a fun track the first go. Any track can not be fun afterwards even for the experienced builder but the pit falls of a new builder makes it more likely. I had help and probably 20 designs that I got input from the group on. I was going to do a squeeze but decided not to. Also did 3 lanes instead of four.

You are o. The right track for sure. Also, any track is surely more fun then no track :huh:

#26 charlesx

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Posted 01 May 2010 - 12:20 PM

Hi again. For a home track I would tend to have start where drivers positions are so in both cases would tend to put down main straight or perhaps round straight and right end with first option. This minmises chance of marshals getting in way of drivers views.

For family or very small group racing perhaps multiple inputs could be good as with only 2-4 people drivers would probably have dual role.

On baseboard thickness my recommendation would be to go to at least 12mm but have heard of others building table first with 12mm and then doing slot in 9mm fillet on top. With my Scottish hat on cost could well be the decider. I for example managed to get some 16mm melmine coated packers for about 1/4 the price.

Contact wise copper tape is OK and no doubt glues these days are very good or perhaps you can use double-sided tape. Not sure how getting around on corners goes however. Can be a problem if fairly tight. Personally cost of braid is probably worth it but you need to factor in extra router tool to insert braid below track surface.

Regards

Chas Le Breton
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#27 Johnnyfly41

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Posted 01 May 2010 - 01:13 PM

Being in the states, I had the choice of using 1/2" MDF which is everywhere or ordering the 3/8". I went 3/8" and a slot deep enough to run flexi's and all and it's plenty thick enough. Either is flexible enough to give you the elevations you want, or, it can always be scored on the underside to get more flex.

I built my track modular, inside of plywood boxes. Quite a pain really and much added cost and weight. And, you still need a support lattice work under the whole thing. At the time, it made sense because I had a ping pong table that part of it would lay over. I ended up building more supports and taking the ping pong table out eventually. Live and learn.

I would build a lattice type of table and build the track in one piece if I had do overs.

My track is taped using venture purple core 3/16" 1 mil thickness. Use the good tape, dont wimp out there. My track is several years old and the tape is holding up well. Breaks are easy to fix. Probably a second track, I would go braid though.

I have seen alternatives to Luf's plastic strip, but I dont think any of them would work as well or produce as nice a result. When routing, the strip needs to be on the side of the router such that the cutter is moving in the direction of travel on the strip side of the router. This will help you keep the router against the fence. If you have a goof up, not to worry, fill the bad slot with auto body filler and reroute.

For wiring, I put a small trench across the slot, drilled a hole next to the tape to bring the wires up. This was the method shown in Luf's video.

A better way I have seen is to drill a hole and countersink for a flat head bolt with a head slightly smaller than the width of the tape. Tape and press the tape into the countersink. Use a brass bolt and put that through and a nut on the back. You can solder the bolt head to the tape. Easy to connect your wires with another nut on the bottom side.

j.

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#28 Roath

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 06:01 AM

Thanks all. I am amazed at all the responses.. :) This is one of the friendliest forums I have ever been on.

Bought a few sheets of 12 mill yesterday and a new Jig Saw. Moved shelving and cleared out the space in the garage and redraw the track lines a bit. I'm trying hard to 'listen' and get things right. Unfortunatly I cant linit myself to a simple track.. my heart is set on the windy hill climb and hill and a flat loop with a wiggle just wont do. I'll no doubt regret it.

The photo is a night time shot.. I have 6 spot lights ready to install.. and the curtains were in the back of the car for the donatin bin.. they will be replaced with backdrops. I'm thinking of printing out photos onto a thin board and varnishing over or something.

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I'll have a go at laying out the elevations today.. probably 700 - 800 mill in total. I predict lots of undercutting!

Rob

#29 kalbfellp

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 07:57 AM

If you bend the 12 mm mdf over several days there is no need to under cut. You just clamp up the mdf and use some timber to SLOWLY bend the mdf how you want it. Do this over several days and the material will hold it shape.

#30 Ember

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 09:57 AM

Rob, if you haven't already done so, I'd suggest you have a look at the Count's Pretzel Logic Raceway for some evidence of extreme MDF bending. But don't take too much notice of the track, I think he had a few issues getting the ends to meet or something. ;)

Good luck with the build. We'll be watching your adventure.
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#31 SlotsNZ

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 11:51 AM

Hi Roath,

glad you bought 12mm MDF in the end. Munter's use of 9mm on top of a 12mm base is the most flexible option - as 9mm allows you to bend/bank it more easily, but if you have just one layer of MDF - 12mm is better.I only used 9mm because I wanted to keep it extra light for reasons that won't affect you, and I was a touch short on slot depth.

Cutting a "T" slot and laying braid isn't hard. I was scared stiff of both jobs, but it turned out really easy (apart from the time I spent bending over the track with my dodgy back, so I did mine over a week). All who have done it will say the same - except Knoath who had some issues with the double sided tape, so went back to using glue.
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#32 kalbfellp

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 12:54 PM

I used glue as well after advice from two tape suppliers. I for advise from both 3m and Tessa Reps about using tape and they both advised against it after looking at the track and the braid. BUT some guys have had great success using tape.

I used contact adhesive BUT IMO no more nails would be easier to use.

#33 munter

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 02:53 PM

Quote

Munter's use of 9mm on top of a 12mm base is the most flexible option

my latest is 12mm on a 9mm base.
Care taken with the table/frame/base has ensured the track layer of mdf ended up pretty level and smooth running.





ps I used tape

Edited by munter, 02 May 2010 - 02:57 PM.

John Warren
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#34 SlotsNZ

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 05:37 PM

slotmadmac and I refurbished his track over Chrismas/January including cutting the side-slot and laying braid.

Here's some before and after.
Working as a two-some, I think we taped and braided 800 odd feet in well under a day.

The keys are
1) clean the braid with some fuelite or other solvent, to remove the waste oil residual on the surface. Pulling the braid through a rag soaked in solvent will create two black stripes in about a metre or two. That needs to go, so that the tape sticks to the braid.
2) Wipe out the side-slots with a damp rag if you think there is any dust in there, then let it dry.
3) Lay the tape without any tension, press it down very firmly, then peel the backing at an acute angle ( flat, close to horizonatal, so there is no tendancy for the tape to lift off the paint. - don't force it)

Doing these, I think we had only about 4 or 5 times the tape lifted as we were peeling off the backing, but we had almost no issue at all, and laying the braid on that was near to walking pace, as fast as we could shuffle along unravelling the braid off the spool. - very easy.

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#35 munter

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 05:56 PM

Slotmadmac's track looks awesome in its new colour and braid.

One other thing to remember when braiding is to paint the track first including the braid recess.
John Warren
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#36 Roath

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 06:30 PM

Hey guys

80+ hour work weeks plus a young family has slowed my progress. but I have managed to get a good part of the the table built (in Rimu!) , finished the drawings , purchased a Jig saw and a router and hammered in the guide ready to route the centre track for about 6 meters. (and finally bought a slot car!! :sleep2: )

I went to buy the router bit today but couldn't find the 1/8th size. I had a 4 mil in my hand and ALMOST bought it.. but at $45 is would be an expensive guess.

Do I need to find an 1/8th (3.2 mil) , is 4 mil too big?

Thanks!
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#37 Ember

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 07:41 PM

Ramu's a bit swanky for a slot track table isn't it? I'd rather see that turned into arrows, better than hoop pine which is all I've been able to get lately. :sleep2:

Love what you've got marked out there. Reckon that'll make for some great driving.
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#38 Roath

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 07:56 PM

Thanks Ember.. I'm a bit worried about trying to get the amount of elevation I want to get out of this section... Let's see how it goes !

I found 30+ meters of Rimu under the house. It's old rimu too from when the house was made so really nice stuff. Bit of a shame it will never been seen... :sleep2:

#39 dangermouse

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 08:00 PM

View PostRoath, on May 16 2010, 06:30 PM, said:

Do I need to find an 1/8th (3.2 mil) , is 4 mil too big?
Thanks!

I think 4mm is a little bit too big and would aim for the 1/8 if you can. You can use 4mm I have driven on a track with a 4mm slot. It worked fine I just felt the width of the slot was a little oversized. So if you can only get a 4mm bit then it will work. I routed my track with a 3mm bit and the only car I had a bit of a problem with was a Carrera 1/24 car, its guide got stuck on a couple of corners. I fixed that with a quick sand of the guide with a dremel.

cheers
DM

#40 digby

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 08:03 PM

G'day, I think 4mm is too big . 3mm or 1/8"(3.2mm) would be as wide as I would go .





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