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dominic cradick

More Scalextric Digital Problems

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Hi its dom again,

 

I had been told to wipe the track and the car braids with metho and crimp the ends on each track.

It worked for a day, then my previous isssues got worse.

watch my problems here:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dp3oAPjNAAs

 

regards,

dom

Edited by dominic cradick

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Hi its dom again,

 

I had been told to wipe the track and the car braids with metho and crimp the ends on each track.

It worked for a day, then my previous isssues got worse.

watch my problems here:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dp3oAPjNAAs

 

regards,

dom

 

Describe the problem..... it can be fixed.


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Hi Dom,

 

I can see your video just fine and I had exactly the same issue you are having. Suffice to say Scalextric digital is quite poor in my opinion, but you can get it to work. A circuit that small should work really really well without too much problem. Things to try:

 

- Change that straight piece of track to a different place in the circuit.

- Fluff the braids out a little and lift them out a bit from the car so they make more contact with the track.

- Try racing in the opposite direction and see if thats any different

- Is it just this one car or does it happen with others in the same spot?

- The fact you can get the signal through by pushing gently down on the car means the digitial signal is just not getting properly through to the car under normal operating circumstances. This means a) weak signal in track :lol: interference of some kind c)poor pickup by vehicle.

 

I'm going to lay bets its (a) as that is the most common problem in scalextric digital that I have found in my internet searching.

 

Now I eventually used copper tape on my circuit, but its a bit bigger and its permanent so I wouldn't advise going to that extreme.

There is one trick you could try. Put aluminium foil around the male connectors in each track join in the hope of getting a better connection. After that, I don't know what else to tell you. Aussieslotter helped me so he is the best I know for advice.

 

Good luck.

 

BT

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Hi Dom

 

It does sound like a weak signal getting to the car

Now you need to find where the prob is

First i would take the track apart and attach one piece of track at a time testing with a car as you go, if its a track piece you will see the problem occur once you have attached it and tried to run the car.This may sound daft that a piece of track although looks ok is clean and not bent broken ,I have found that some pieces no matter how much i clean polish crimp or

yell at just wont carry a signal well .

If you find that the problem starts from the powerbase with your first piece of track it maybe a faulty powerbase,but unusual

for that pb .But you could check the voltage going to the track,Im not sure what it is from a 4 car pb , aussieslotter would maybe able to tell you that.

A track of your size should not have any drammas getting the signal /power around at all.

Cheers

Glen

Edited by glengtl1

www.gtlslotcaraccessories.com

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Yup go around the track and tighten the joints and wipe with isopropyl alcohol as you go. Connection is now clean and tight.

Get some Ninco super racing or other brand finer braid, and re braid cars so they are around 15mm long.

Then wipe rails down with isoproyl alcohol.

The car should be able to crawl along on every piece except the lane change dead bits.

Then report back to us.

If the car behaves erratically when passing LCS and you use the DPR plug that is another fixable problem.


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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I use WD40, it leaves a nice film on the copper tape or braid, just don't get any on the track its self as it will make the tires slippery, I think with it remaining oily as WD40 does, it tends to add continuity between the car braids and the track rails/braid.


Paul NZ - Scale with Detail!

 

Narangba Club Local

 

Gold Coast Raceway 09

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Why? I wouldn't think alcohol would hurt the plastic.

 

Isopropyl alcohol tends to dry out cheap plastic, it draws the essential oils out if it and will crack the plastic over time. WD40 is a cleaner and doesn't leave any residue behind when it dries out. So it will make your tyres slippery but it also cleans them as it dries. It is a much better option than Iso...

 

I stopped cleaning my tracks with anything but CRC 2-26 years ago, it's designed specifically to complete the task you are wanting to do. It is also excellent for braid cleaning, and you can just spray it on the braid on your car then run it on your track. Play and clean at the same time.... get your track clean then everytime you have a break from racing for a few days, just spray on the car then it will clean any dust off for you along with the braid.

 

Having said all that, if I had my druthers, Tiger Milk is the one I would use if I had easy access to it.... it's on my shopping list when my CRC runs out in about twenty years, or when I open my own Slot Car shop. :o

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WD-40 and digital dont mix........works great in the short term, gums up in the long term. Wipe track with Armourall multi purpose cleaner and rails with isopropyl. Use Ninco racing braid or similar.


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Off topic a little, WD40 can work OK for loosening bolts, providing lubrication and electrical conductivity in the short term, however if you leave it on a nut and bolt for an extended time it goes hard and is stronger than the strongest locktite. I'm very wary of WD40.

 

- Cam


Hoo Roo

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I was told by an American to wipe the track down with Electronic contact cleaner. He said not to use any alcohol on the track

I take a swig of Vodka then lick the tyres - it works wonders :lol:

 

WD-40 and digital dont mix........works great in the short term, gums up in the long term. Wipe track with Armourall multi purpose cleaner and rails with isopropyl. Use Ninco racing braid or similar.

Excellent advice Rick

 

Off topic a little, WD40 can work OK for loosening bolts, providing lubrication and electrical conductivity in the short term, however if you leave it on a nut and bolt for an extended time it goes hard and is stronger than the strongest locktite. I'm very wary of WD40.

- Cam

Interesting? Didn't know that :)


I can't believe that I wanted to grow up

 

Mount Salt Panorama Track Combined Road and Rally Track built near Salt Pan Creek Padstow - Sydney

 

A quick build rally track

 

2017 WRP Round 11 at Mt Salt Panorama

 

https://i128.photobu...zpss7sqiwfj.jpg

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I use WD40, it leaves a nice film on the copper tape or braid, just don't get any on the track its self as it will make the tires slippery,

 

 

I have used WD40 on my tyres to soften them. That works great. But if you want to clean rails with WD40 make sure you wipe it off properly afterwards or it gets sticky, collects dirt and then your braids get all that mess stuck in them and you get stutter, or worse.

 

Check continuity the easy way. Tape up a throttle and then push a car around the track with its wheels in the air. If you pass a joint and hear a change in frequency you have a bad joint there. Mark it, dont fix and carry on. You will find several points that are the worst. Now fix the lot in one go. Repeat and if you did well you won't hear any frequency changes. Now untape the throttle before you put the car down.


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.............................PM me for C7042 Aux to PC cables............or Pit-Pro...

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