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Pioneer 'bullitt' Mustang 390 Gt Review


manic35

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Is rick1776 a good guy ?

;):lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

Some say good old Rick........................... others may tell the truth

 

no actually he's orright.

I thought that was possibly a dangerous question. :)

 

 

Jules, chin up. I wouldn't bother with the mini-bar. There's never enough in them. I'd be sending out for a nice big juicy bottle of single malt. Think you've more than earned it. You can always chalk the tab up to Rick's expense account. Actually, seeing as Rick's paying you might as well make it a Johnny Blue. ;) No, make it two!

 

Good luck. We're all behind you. And trying very hard to be patient.

 

Cheers

Embs

Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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FCC,

 

The motor has mabuchi dimensions so in that respect it would be a drop in replacement. It is rated at 18K but I think it has a bee's dick more stall torque than the Mabuchi. However I dont think theres a lot in it Trevor. I think I know who is making the motors but even Jules wont tell me and Im sure there are good reasons for that. You'd be surprised at how many "spies" frequent these forums.

 

The motor is an fc130 to be precise same dimensions as what is commonly called a mabuchi. No great secrets on motors mate the Slot it ones are made by sun the fly and scalextric are made by mabuchi. I think Jules has posted earlier that the customer orders motors at a certain "spec" and the manufacturer makes them for you. NSR and the newer spec scaleauto as well as many MB slot motors come wit balanced coms as do some slot it motors but not all. I just think being a motor that drives from either end if it becomes "allowable" in a club then it could be a great standard motor because it can be used in any car that uses an fc130 powerplant. NSR pods are can drive only as are most pro slot chassis whilst scalextric and slot its are endbell drive. Too much is made about motors in terms of performance characteristics, What is important is that all competitors start with a level playing field. Contrast the performance of the ff f1 motors compared to the standard black stripe. Given that motors are very inexpensive per unit to the customer usually around a dollar a unit if what i was told is true and i think it is. A bulk pack option could be a good deal for all concerned.

 

Scalextric standard “black stripeâ€, Sport (FC-130) 18,000 RPM/12v; tested 20,577-22,300 RPM/12v

est. 75 gcm/12v, est. 3.9W/12v

 

Scalextric F1 (FF-050) 18,000 RPM/12v, tested 22,861 RPM/12v

tested 147 gcm/12v, tested 8.3W/12v

 

Is it any wonder they go better?? Double the power.

 

Many motors are actually made by the SunTech motor company, I believe Slot It's are and technically not made by Mabuchi. And I'm glad to see the SCNews motor list used here to show some motor data.

 

I too love the Bullitt Mustang, it's just a fantastic model and I can't wait to see the race versions of this car when they're out. Jules has done an excellent job with this car for sure!

 

DK

Publisher, Slot Car News

Carrera of America Marketing Manager

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Got an email from Jules today. Well all is going well in China apart from what Jules is having to eat. Hmmm what on menu tonight? You velly luck Mr Jules we got yummy soup. Is Snake and bull's balls. Is velly good. Is good for you sex rife. :haha: :haha:

 

Suck it in big guy. :lol: Im sure your gonna sell a motza of these Stangs Jules. :huh::o:)

cheers

rick1776

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Considering scrjon's offer. Just checking direct flights, HK to St Louis. Pump off a few thousand rounds, steak, wine, slot racing......sounds just too good.

 

rick1776: come and take over, you know you want to. Just think, you could paint up a few Big Pete Notchys, stuff your case full, get home and flog them all on EzBay. A new career. You're never too old to start. I'm 41 as well, you know.

 

What day is it? Is it the day after Tuesday and the one a few days before Friday? I'm not sure. Hold on, it's dark outside so that means it must now be Thursday.

 

That blue van is still outside. Keep the curtains closed, then they can't use that long range lens to see my secret slot car schedule and worldwide sales report figures. If I slant the laptop just this way, that's better. Safe. I'm smart, me, I am.

 

Jules

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Hmmm... Thursday.... Never could get the hang of Thursdays.

Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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  • 4 months later...

All are pretty much gone, but you might pick up one

 

Have a look at anyone of the sponsors (title page), just pick the closest

 

As your in the ACT you could try waytofast

 

if not, Sydney or Melbourne

 

I do know that Alec at xtremetrax has at least one left

Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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Just type "Pioneer slot cars" into the ebay machine. Should get you some hits. I have a VERY rare yellow one, make me an offer. My little one got to it with his paint set. :lol: One of a kind.

Hey Rick

Got any more of those Lone Ranger Stangs painted up yet. I reckon there's a market out there for some more???? B)

 

LB

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Lenny have I got a deal for you. What colour do ya like?? Ive got the little one painting some up, he seems to like gold. Oh buy the way did I mention it? You need to run a gold T/A car in the historic class in the club. Just had the rule changed last night. :lol:

cheers

rick1776

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  • 1 year later...

About the same size, but the Pioneers do come with a second, longer guide in the box.

Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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  • 1 month later...

ArmchairRacer are still listing the 'Phantom' Bullitt @ $79. They also list all the racing Mustangs.

Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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  • 4 months later...

I even saw a couple of Pioneer Mustang notchbacks for sale at Thunderbird the other day, and I thought they weren't stocking them any more.

 

I've driven several Pioneers pretty hard over the last few years so I am probably as qualified as anyone to give an opinion.

 

Bodywork and finish: exceptional. Only weakness perhaps is the heat bonded interior, not as easy to get in and out as a Scalextric and not bonded in as securely as a Carrera. In this department they are on a par with Revell/Monogram, which is a high standard. The paintwork on the Bullitt cars in particular is exceptional, as is the paint on their Bengal Charger. Some cars have problems with decals not being very durable, but this is quite common these days anyway. I don't like the way the interior locks in to the chassis. I leave out the two interior screws and grind away the two interlocking rails from the bottom of the interior tray to enable body float.

 

Motor: The SS was good but somewhat underpowered at the top end compared to the Scaley '18K' because it was a true 18K, unlike the Scaley. The QS 18K is an excellent motor, out of 18Ks it certainly has the most torque of any I have tried, allowing higher gearing to be used which effectively kills the Scaley problem. I don't like the 21K very much. Personally I think a 18K QS with 13/36 or 12/34 gearing is a better option. The motor clips in very firmly.

 

Gears: The gear spacing and pinion size on this car is a bit odd. The spur is slightly larger than 19mm and the pinion seems about 7mm. The gears seat well on the knurling on the axle and motor shaft and don't come off or chew out. They are generally straight - certainly much more so than anything Revell have made!!! - and are not too noisy, although they have a distinctive plastic sidewinder sound. I have generally replaced the gears on mine with a 7.5mm NSR and 19mm Slot.It combination but you don't need to.

 

Rear axle: 3/32" with plain ends, a small spline for the plastic spur. These are generally very good. The brass bushings on the rear have oil holes in them and the tolerances are actually tighter than Slot.It. I know this because you cannot get the SCC bushing alignment guage through these bushings (maybe the one for SCC bushings fits?). The axle sits very square and generally for a OOB slot car with plastic gears the whole rear end assembly of these cars is rock solid. The main problem up back is loosing wheels. The wheels simply press on with an interference fit and when they loosen up a bit they come off regularly. You need to glue them back on occasionally with super glue. This is one of the main reasons I switched to longer Slot.It axles and aluminium wheels on my race cars, because then I can rely on grub screws. Otherwise the wheels are excellent, very round and concentric, and would be the industry standard if they attached with grub screws!

 

Front axle: 3/32" plain axle with plastic bushings. This is one area that lets the model down. Plastic bushings are quite sloppy. This might be a plus or minus depending on your set up and driving style. The axle mounts though are terrible. They are strengthened somewhat by a piece from the underside of the bonnet locking in to the top of each bushing when assembled but if you have the body floating a bit this effect is minimal. The front axle mounts are flimsy and easily broken. I would strongly recommend bracing them with styrene rod and card as you can see here: link. Other than the mount problem it is really the amount of slop there, which can be changed by fitting other bushings if you wish. You might also find that the front tyres need to be replaced with smaller diameter tyres (this is easier if you have changed to Slot.It style wheels which have a variety of tyre diameters to suit) or sand them down (this is easier with the Bullitts and Chargers where the front and rear wheels are the same size, although it can still be done with the T/A models although you will get a cupping effect).

 

Guide: This is by far the worst aspect of the car. B-NOVA make a very good conversion for the Pioneer cars now. Buy that and fit a Slot.It SICH10 or SICH07 guide, or drill the adapter out slightly and fit a Ninco spring guide. The standard guide is horrible and designed mainly for ease of changing braids. There is a large amount of up and down and back to front slop that cannot be eliminated with screws or whatever. I tried modifying the standard guide but that did not work well. Since fitting the screw-fit Slot.It guide and reducing the front tyre diameter the handling of my Pioneers has been transformed, with deslots reduced by 80%+. This is the one mod (besides the bracing, which is very cheap) that I feel is absolutely necessary.

 

Wiring: These cars are set up to take Scalextric Digital chips if you want to do that, resulting in a fairly complicated loom. That's great if you run digital, but I have found that if you are the kind of person who pulls the car apart more than once the loom can be fragile at the junctions and pretty soon it will loose connections. There are also some capacitors or something which I guess makes it compliant with some EU regulation. I just rip the loom out and replace it with NSR silicon lead wires cut to length.

 

 

Verdict: Highly recommended, 8/10. Runs well out of the box, and can be made to run exceptionally well with very simple mods.

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