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What Controller?

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I was a little dumbfounded by the size when the PMs rolled up. Like DM I'd not experience a large variety of controllers, only set once, the new variety trigger and the old variety plunger ones from Scaley, and the AFX ones. I have quite small hands (no doubt there's jokes to be made there) and at first glance was concerned that I wouldn't handle the new controllers. But the PMs are light and surprisingly comfortable to hold. I'm glad I made the decision I did, and I can upgrade to dial in sensitivity and brakes later if needs be.

Cheers

Embs

Embs,

I have built the one that I have quoted back in post 102, into an old scaley type controller for 10 year old. B)

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Embs,

I have built the one that I have quoted back in post 102, into an old scaley type controller for 10 year old. B)

I'd have to get parental supervision to use the soldering iron or maybe they make ones with safety corners like they do scissors. ;)

But seriously, I did look through the details of that controller. But at this point of time I think it's beyond my electronics abilities.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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What about a simplifed version. Its an on off switch. Toggle it fast enough and you have a PWM controller. B)

 

Hat coat Im outa here.


cheers

rick1776

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What about a simplifed version. Its an on off switch. Toggle it fast enough and you have a PWM controller. B)

 

Hat coat Im outa here.

 

That's about all you need for a wing car right?


Regards

Rob

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So Rick. Just how fast can you make repetitive up/down motions like that? Does it take practice? B)


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Ha Ha Ha ya got me. I wont mention what gets kept in the bottom of the knickers draws if ya dont mention my repetitive up down motions B)

 

Now what were we talking about?? I forget?


cheers

rick1776

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That's about all you need for a wing car right?

Actually ...no. You do need more....variable brakes helps,so does some degree of sensitivity control.

Of course the track design can play a part as well in what you need from a controller for these cars.

 

You also need nerves of steel as the idea is to keep speeds up, thus maintaining downforce.

It takes some getting used to when approaching a corner and your driving instructor is saying "go hard".

 

regards


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Its an on off switch.

I have driven with a controller that was made from a fridge door switch! Years ago we raced on a track under a guys house and he had his original controllers made from conduit with modified door switches that had no brakes and just a contact for power.

 

Here is a pic of an early PWM controller board for the sixties. this pic was published in an old Model Car magazine.

 

gallery_89_128_23904.jpg


Phil

 

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Currently looking at station with direction switch only. KISSish.

 

I haven't got all the way to the end of this thread - so apologies if someone else has mentioned it, but add a fuse as well!!

 

T1_driver_station_complete.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Richard

 

Oh yeah, of course.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I am not sure how important a fuse is when running plastic chassis cars but I wish I had installed them when my niece was pushing down on a metal chassis car while pulling the throttle trigger and saying"it doesnt go"


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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I plan to throw one of these under my track when I get a spare couple of hours

 

pmtr1071.jpg

 

4 lane "wiring center" for single power supply input to facilitate hard wiring 1/32 or HO home or club slot racing tracks. Includes 15 loop type solder-on wire terminals for connecting wires (not shown). Direct connects to high performance power supply or battery. Includes a series of all-electronic self resetting circuit breakers to provide electrical protection against short circuits and overloads, greatly improving safety and prevents damage to cars / track / controllers & wiring from misconnected slot racing controllers or accidental bridging of track rails.

 

Those tricky wee square brown doo-daas poking up the top are re-settable fuses, like the round brown one inside a Slot.it controller.

 

OR, one of these

pmtr6881.jpg

 

4 Lane integrated wiring center with electronic circuit breakers, high efficiency relay for computer interface, 30 amp power relay for track power control & wire terminals (not shown in picture) - integrates with any Professor Motor 4 lane lap counting system.

 

It just needs pin connection to the relay from a 5V dc source, eg the correct out pins from a parallel printer port as in driven by Ultimate Racer 3.0 and you can have track power, circuit protection and the basic feed to all the driver stations and thr track rails in one easy beasty.


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Actually, that beastie looks not dissimilar to the mainframe from a modular comms patch panel I used to help my ex wire and install. A neat way of being able to route any phone line/extension, data or a combination of both to any point in one of those open plan offices.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I plan to throw one of these under my track when I get a spare couple of hours

 

pmtr1071.jpg

 

4 lane "wiring center" for single power supply input to facilitate hard wiring 1/32 or HO home or club slot racing tracks. Includes 15 loop type solder-on wire terminals for connecting wires (not shown). Direct connects to high performance power supply or battery. Includes a series of all-electronic self resetting circuit breakers to provide electrical protection against short circuits and overloads, greatly improving safety and prevents damage to cars / track / controllers & wiring from misconnected slot racing controllers or accidental bridging of track rails.

 

Those tricky wee square brown doo-daas poking up the top are re-settable fuses, like the round brown one inside a Slot.it controller.

 

OR, one of these

pmtr6881.jpg

 

4 Lane integrated wiring center with electronic circuit breakers, high efficiency relay for computer interface, 30 amp power relay for track power control & wire terminals (not shown in picture) - integrates with any Professor Motor 4 lane lap counting system.

 

It just needs pin connection to the relay from a 5V dc source, eg the correct out pins from a parallel printer port as in driven by Ultimate Racer 3.0 and you can have track power, circuit protection and the basic feed to all the driver stations and thr track rails in one easy beasty.

 

How much does one of these babies set you back SlotsNZ? Also, where do you find them. Looks very polished!

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Whats the relay for?

How do you reset the fuses?

cheers

The fuses reset themselves, that's what is so good about them! The relay is for the track power, correct me if I am wrong

West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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Just seen this on Armchair site, looks and sounds good.

 

mc3500e1.jpg

 

Doesn't look much different from a Parma.

Electronic is the way to go if you want any flexibility.

I agree, i swear by my PM but for the guys and gal out there that dont want electronic this seems alot better quality and more options than a Parma turbo at around the same price.

Edited by Davnic74

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David

 

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I am not sure how important a fuse is when running plastic chassis cars but I wish I had installed them when my niece was pushing down on a metal chassis car while pulling the throttle trigger and saying"it doesnt go"

 

Having a fuse (or resettable fuse) means the fuse will blow before a short gets back to your expensive power supply and blows that, it's cheap insurance.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

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Yes. tho i hear the 10 ohn from DSE is the go pritty sure its the same to wire in too tho i may be mistaken. The instructions for using the PM pot are on the professor motor web site

I have several controllers with brakes all with a 25K OHM potentiometer (Pot) if nothing else make sure you use the wire wound type,$8.98 from Dick Smith Electronics.There are others around but have found these the most reliable.Hope this helps.


West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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Hahah, Brad the number of spam bots I delete off the outhouse before they get posting is unreal.

 

Quite persistent at registering they are.. Quite persistent at deleting am I.

 

They always tend to have something silly relating to warcraft gold or replica watches in their profile URL, it's awesome.

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