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What Controller?

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Thanks Phil. Pretty sure the Clipsal 413L was the one that was $25. But well, that's AWM. Will have a chat to my sparky and see what he can do. Clipsal are always throwing presents his way, he should be able to get them for a decent price.


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I am thinking my next purchases are a better power supply and electronic controllers - not sure which order.

 

I am thinking of a 25A variable supply maybe something that goes from 3-15 or 3-30 volts I currently use one of the old triang 12vDC/15vAC power supplies connected to a train controller which allows me to adjust the voltage. I think I feed in 15vAC and it comes out of the speed controller 12v DC. The PS is rated at 1 or 2 amps

 

Do I need to look out for anything when buying a PS and controllers - I saw on slot.it website a high current 20A+ controller module is this something to be weary of? I have seen mention of the slot.it controller being 6amp max. power?? Should I just look for a variable PS with 5amps or so - that has got to be an improvement on what I have...

 

Controller wise I plan to either 2 like Ember got or spring a few more $$ for adjustable brakes....(not sure I need adjustable sensitivity :lol:) though maybe the slot.it controller is the go. - though I was wondering which is better between the PM 2110 and the slot.it?

 

cheers

DM

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I plan on getting 3 of the PM controllers and having brakes @ the drivers station. I figure if you need to adjust brakes during a race rather then on a few laps just before, well, drive better. (of course, I will be the one reaching for the trims mid race).

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I plan on getting 3 of the PM controllers and having brakes @ the drivers station. I figure if you need to adjust brakes during a race rather then on a few laps just before, well, drive better. (of course, I will be the one reaching for the trims mid race).

 

would that be a less expensive option?

sounds good

I am sure I read something about that before on the forum - but I am electronics challenged and links to instructions on how to do that would be good...could you also do sensitivity adjustment at the station as well?

 

cheers

DM

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though I was wondering which is better between the PM 2110 and the slot.it?

 

Both these are good controllers.

I own the PM one (2010)and like its simplicity. The slotit one does work well but there are too many variables which can be confusing IMHO.

 

Adjustable sensitivity was more important than adjustable brakes for me, but having both is important.

 

As for brakes on the driver station...... if you are a serious racer forget it,you need the knob on the hand piece.

What happens if you go to a track that doesnt have brakes on the driver station?

Being able to dial the brakes up or down while you are racing is very convenient....just bring your other hand to the controller and feel for the knob.

 

regards


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Have to agree with Munter. My list of discarded/unused controllers is embarrasing.

The ones that produce the fastest times with all cars are the ones that have only adjustable brakes, sensitivity and choke. Anything more seems superfluous. Munter has found the same thing.

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Wireless would be the ducks guts. But... Again with that evil little thing called a budget. Does it come with a free set of Ginsu steak knives? No, wireless is a fantabulous idea, I've already come across difficulties due to the length (or lack there of) of the PM leeds, about half the length of the Scaley ones.

 

I figure your wireless 'module' is/will be the "standard" 3pin with round earth configuration?

Gidday,

Wireless (as in no cable) is really just one of the advantages. Its main attribute is its a mini computer able to manipulate every parameter you can think of regarding controller signal so throttle curves, braking curves, sensitivity, traction control etc can all be set up precisely on a PC then uploaded to the controller. Of course you can use it without a PC.

 

The price of the controller is believable at $199AUD. Of course theres the module which which does all the hard work power wise, it will probably come in at around $100 + the various adaptors.

You could debate all day what the standard is regarding plugs but lets just say there will be various versions.

Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Hey Rick, when did you say the analogue plug-in dongle will be ready? :nice:


Stu

 

Old racers race harder

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Hi Stu,

March 2010 or sooner. Amps, no amps flow through the controller but do flow through the analogue wireless module, which is 3 amps. Of course we can make a 10 amp version.

 

Yes the hall effect chip has 320 steps and the analogue module's chip has 256, so 256 is the final resolution.

 

Of course it needs to be out tested by the analogue guys and we are going out on a limb to say this could soon be number 1 controller. Yer I know its a big statement.......


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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I am slowly getting my head around this controller stuff. I have been searching the web and reading forums, has anyone used a TruSpeed Controller - they have a PWM controller (which is 175quid) and diode controllers - which kind are the PM Controllers?

 

I currently have 2 Parma 25ohm controllers and need to buy another controller once planning on getting another parma until I used an electronic controller the other night -it got me thinking and all this discussion has been helpful (I think :)) I am still trying to understand 'Hall Effect' and PWM and diode and all that jazz !!

 

All the reading I have done I have come across alot of do it yourself controllers - is there a reason for this?

 

cheers

DM

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DIY controllers are very cheap to build. A diode controller conversion can be built for less than $20.00! Transistor ones a little more.

biggest stumbling block is the contact pad. I have used vero board and similar boards. I have seen brass washers and fibre spacers, and I have also made one contact block from brass strips cast into fibreglass resin.


Phil

 

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You would think by now some would of created a contact block conversion for the parma to allow folks to modify them off the shelf.


Regards

Rob

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maybe I should have started a new thread

ok if one wants to get an electronic so there are diode controllers and there are transistor controllers and there are PWM controllers - is that right? What is Rick's 'Hall Sensor'?

judging by the cost they probably rank in that order in terms of features/performance etc...

 

TruSpeed do diode and PWM, ProfMotor are transistor and Slot.it is PWM

 

I am electronics challenged - so I will likely settle on buying something that offers good value - just need to convince my self to spend double or more what I was planning to spend on a new Parma - and then do it again as my son will want one as well :) however once I do buy these I will have 2 Parma 25ohm controllers so I can always experiment on one of them...

 

a search of diode controllers came up with this - it looks interesting

http://www.truspeed.co.uk/product.php?product_id=9

 

this was also useful - I think I get sensitivity now - like having a different ohm resistor - so that would be handy to have...

http://www.scaleslotcar.com/controllers.html

 

cheers

DM

Edited by dangermouse

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Professor motor are now a transistor type... the old "sliver series" are the diode type. Parma controllers now cost over $50...$65 at a local shop thats just got new stock in:O... so its really not that much more to get the PM for $70 from Tbird

 

Yes thats exactly what the sensitivity is. Im lucky having the silver series PM that the cheap way to adjust the sensitivity is to short out some diodes using small nuts n bolts. Obvously cant make adjustments on the run tho. i have used my PM as low as 6.5 volts tho even with the max adjustment i lost some sensitivity.. but at volts that low the cars wouldnt deslot even held flat the whole lap.

Edited by Badbilly

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maybe I should have started a new thread

ok if one wants to get an electronic so there are diode controllers and there are transistor controllers and there are PWM controllers - is that right? What is Rick's 'Hall Sensor'?

judging by the cost they probably rank in that order in terms of features/performance etc...

 

TruSpeed do diode and PWM, ProfMotor are transistor and Slot.it is PWM

 

I am electronics challenged - so I will likely settle on buying something that offers good value - just need to convince my self to spend double or more what I was planning to spend on a new Parma - and then do it again as my son will want one as well :) however once I do buy these I will have 2 Parma 25ohm controllers so I can always experiment on one of them...

 

a search of diode controllers came up with this - it looks interesting

http://www.truspeed.co.uk/product.php?product_id=9

 

this was also useful - I think I get sensitivity now - like having a different ohm resistor - so that would be handy to have...

http://www.scaleslotcar.com/controllers.html

 

cheers

DM

I am also in a bit of a quandry as to what controller to purchase. I really like the feel of the Slot-It electronic handles but am concerned with all the controls and getting the setup right for every car and also what sort of amperage they will handle. I have built an electronic one myself that handles group 12 down to 1/32 (1ohm to 25 ohm) and works really good but I like the idea of not having a wiper arm as such. I am currently running a Parma Turbo with adjustable brakes (25 ohm) which works really well. Any feedback on the Slot-It welcome, Syd


West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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where did you find the instructions for making your own electronic controller Syd?

 

thanks everyone for your input so far - I am enjoying learning all this new stuff about slot cars.

cheers

DM

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where did you find the instructions for making your own electronic controller Syd?

 

thanks everyone for your input so far - I am enjoying learning all this new stuff about slot cars.

cheers

DM

My friend had built one years ago which he used extensively for group 12 racing, he had copied it from a kiwi I think, I borrowed it and copied his. It cost about $50 to build without labour and works as well as any I have tried besides the Slot-It one. The good thing about it is that it has adjustable ohm rating with twist of a dial,no swapping of resistors, and adjustable brake switch. It only works on positively wired tracks so it can't be used on scalextric or ninco tracks.


West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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Heya Syd

 

the Slot.it controllers are great if you can get your head around the way they many options work to define functionality.

They are not for everybody, but sounds like you have a techo-head, so I expect you're a person who would get to grips with them just fine.

I use mine in "log" (CRV) mode all the time, with both dip switches on top set to off.

The stock controller is not quite up to Falcon VII or Super 16D. The auto-protect kicks in.

THe newer heavy duty module is now available and it handles 40 amp peak, and 20 amp continuous.

Slot.it are offering them as a complete controller. You'll have to check with your local pusher for price and availability this end of the big basketball.

 

For each car I drive, I decide

1) does it have that much grunt that I want to get it a bit of anti-spin with the red knob - turn if needed.

2) What is the track like, if very flowing, lift the start speed a little on the yellow knob. If not, set it to slowest. - A quick pull of the throttle on one lap helps me decide whether to start at "creep" or a little faster

3) How "sensitive" do I want the throttle to be - turn the wee blue knob until it feels "right" to drive

4) Which brake mode, full brake, or less than full on the right hand mode, or how long to have brakes last before fading inthe left hand mode.

 

Once you've done it a bunch of times I can do all that in 2 warm-up laps before a race, "turn, turn turn, sorted"

 

As a comparison. Kennedy-rd who has one, uses it only in Linear mode, and sets it up completely differently to me. But he races metal chassis as well, and as a result (I think) of that, prefers a much "hotter" response to me. - horses for courses, and whatever tickles your fancy.

I recall reading that when Maurizio Ferrari raced at Armchair last year, he used his in linear mode because it was easier for him to set up in that mode for an unfamilar track condition, but that in his own environment he generally uses it in CRV mode.

 

BTW. the kiwi guy who probably designed an dbuilt all those Group 12 controllers is Kevin someone or other, and he's apparently living in "texas" ( I used to call it banana-bender), somewhere at present.

Kennedy-rd would be able to tell you more. I think he built controllers for most of the Wellington club.

 

iwanttoslot also builds his own.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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You would think by now some would of created a contact block conversion for the parma to allow folks to modify them off the shelf.

 

 

Rob, if you mean to turn them into "diode" controllers, someone already does. :)

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BTW. There are also these http://www.coastcd.com/powerhouse.html

 

I have one. It uses a 45 ohm parma to process the trigger voltage with just a sensor level current.

 

The continuous variability of response between a log mode and a linear mode, plus the "start speed" for sensitivity works quite well.

Then you have active and variable brake, -the option to have it fade out quickly once the car has slowed to the speed designated by the new throttle position.

 

It's just a bit of a mother to cart around.

I use my Slot.it all the time. Used to use that until the Slot.it came out.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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where did you find the instructions for making your own electronic controller Syd?

 

thanks everyone for your input so far - I am enjoying learning all this new stuff about slot cars.

cheers

DM

For those who are interested the controller is a Peter Swales (Kiwi) one if that is of any use to you. Not sure if he was the original designer but my friend who lent me his to copy got his design from Peter and modified it to his liking. Don't know if Peter is still involved with slotcars or not.

Edited by Syd

West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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