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  1. We have just begun to build these to race at club. Note: All the models of Chevvy, Ford, and now Dodge share the same chassis. Under the hood they are identical, it is just the bodies that vary. They are pretty simple in essence, and our first hit-out last night was a hoot; but like all toy shop/entry level brands, they have their quirks. - Big tolerances in axle bushes, guide - Nylon gears, with the spur mounted on a spline on the axle in the same way as Scalextric cars, the stock gears are quite noisy. - Plastic wheels press fitted to the axles - Treaded tyres that look good standing still, but are quite hard, and have little grip as supplied. - Dinky little screws holding the body on, loosen them 1 turn to de-stress the chassis and provide body rock, and they will fall out. After munting my first couple of builds and having to recover the errors, today I cracked open a white kit to start a methodical tune. So, car stripped, guide, lead wire and DPR box thrown away. Magnet removed. I have cut and fitted some very thin lead in the centre, in the magnet pocket, behind the axle; - and close to the guide to keep the nose in the slot under acceleration. All up it might way 8-9 grams. The Spur gears seem to spin on the axle shaft after a while, so we decided we would allow gear replacements to the 11/12/13 tooth pinion and 33 tooth plastic spur. Standard gearing is 12/33, I have fitted a 12 tooth 6.5mm Slot.it pinion, which needs pressing onto the splined motor shaft carefully to ensure it goes on straight, and the motor shaft doesn't get bent. The Spur is 32 tooth for a slightly taller ratio, but after truing the tyres down, the final drive ratio will probably be a little lower. Those tyres are getting a true on the lathe. They are ostensibly 2.38mm hole/axle, so I just press-fitted them to the mono shaft that I would usually true Slot.it wheels on. New guide fitted, a Slot.it CH07 wood guide, new soft wire, grub screw fixed to the braid. - I always bend the stripped wire at the guide into a "U" , press it into the guide behind the braid, and thread the grub screw down above it. Less direct pressure against the motor wire, and seems to give a secure result that doesn't pop out. Once the wire is correctly positioned, a bit of tape to hold the wire how I want it to be. Tyres trued, wheels re-fitted to car . . . . and it is not a happy camper. Onto the tech block, and guess what I find - warped chassis. Checked everything, yep, quite bent. The pic above is after I tried to bend and get it roughly straight... not good. So I am giving it a bath on the steel plate, weighted down with old magnets. If you do this, take careful note of the underside of the chassis, as it is not a flat pancake, Different parts of the chassis are raised between 0.5mm and 1mm from the lowest points. I have carefully packed the raised sections underneath with thin shim magnets and thin sheet lead, to provide a stable base before placing the magnets above the chassis to hold it down flat ready for a hot water bath. Look at all those magnets top left. That is the raised area, and even with all those on it, the chassis STILL isn't quite sitting flat, but as it softens in the hot water, it should settle okay. That's all for today, bodywork tomorrow. Footnote: 90 degree bath, 2 hours to cool, chassis now pancake flat. Dried, reassembled, car a much happier camper. All four feet now touch the ground. Ready to begin prepping and painting the body and the many, many small parts.....
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