Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'The Red Roo V1.0 option.'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Announcements
    • News and Announcements
    • Welcome Aboard
    • Forum Related
  • Sponsors
    • Sponsors
  • Special Events
    • Australian Scale Model Nationals
    • 1/24th Scale Auto National Racing
    • Australian Plafit Championship
    • NSW Scale Model Titles
    • NZ Racing Events
  • Slot Cars
    • Discussion
    • Digital
    • Cars
    • Race Control & Timing
    • Workshop
    • Scratch Built/Re-Paints
    • Vintage Slots (1:32)
    • Members Home Tracks
    • Trackside Scenery
    • Trade/Sale/Want
    • Club Racing
    • Review
    • Archives
    • 3D Printing and Cad Design
    • Controllers
  • 1/24 Scale
  • Proxy Racing
  • General
  • Admins/Mods

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


How did you find us?

Found 1 result

  1. Hi guys, The Red Roo is a chassis that has been developed with the new OAPR rule set in mind and is currently available from me (it was manufactured by Nick De Wachter and you are very welcome to have a look at his website for other alternatives). Anyway I thought it a good idea to post a "How to" for the Red Roo, that will not only explain how the chassis is assembled, but also how it fit's the available LMP bodies. So how do you get from a bag of carbon and brass bits, to this?: Well after getting all your pices together and opening the Red Roo bag, you start with the motor box: Then you add the NSR 25 King motor (please ignore the fact that I photographed a Scale Auto SC-12 motor): Then add the rear axle holders (fronts are the shorter and rears the taller of the two sizes - both sets are packed seperately to avoid this), the springs and put it onto the base plate. I suggest you don't tighten the motor bracket (onto the motor) at the rear until you've added the axle and spur gear to get the gear mesh perfect. Once you done that you can take the spur gear of and tighten both the motor bracket screws. Now grab the front pieces: ....and add the front axle holders and guide tongue to the T-plate: Next marry the front sub assembly to the rear and base plate assembly. Add the other bits (2 x 3mm wide axle spacers on the rear and 2 x1.5mm wide axle spacers on the front axle) to make up a running chassis and wah lah: Before you mount your selected body, take a few measurements so as to cut the body mounting rubber to the correct width and length. First check how wide the body mounting is; Then how wide the body is: ...and how wide the body mounting plates are: Now cut the rubber so that it will sit nicely on the body mounting plates, in the correct position and will at the same time overhang enough to reach the inside of the body sides: At this stage I suggest you add some spacers to the body plates to stop any possible movement, you can always remove them later to get the correct body movement again. (This is in fact a generic suggestion for mounting bodies to model car chassis). This will ensure that the body mounts perfectly and that the glue will dry correctly without any of the bonding surfaces being pushed into an incorrect position during the mounting and drying: Now put some contact adhesive on the rubber and the body mount plates and let it dry until touch dry before putting it in place on the body mounts: This is what it will look like from above: ...and from the bottom: I always use some fibre reinforced tape on the inside of the body where the rubber will be glued: Now put some contact adhesive on the body (where you've added the tape) and also on the rubber. Put the body over the chassis WHILE THE GLUE IS STILL WET and position it over the chassis. (It is suggested that you dry fit the body before you add the glue and find some spacers that will hold the body the right height of the track - I use coins for this purpose). Try to resist the temptation to squeeze the body up against the rubber too much, rather let the glue go touch dry again before permanently pushing it down, now let it dry overnight: Check it the next day: Remove the body, take the extra spacers out from the body mounts, add the interior and other external body parts and you have a OAPR LMP. With this setup you should be very close to the overall minimum weight limit of 160grams. You will have noticed from the handwritten figures under the rear of the body, that I will have to add 0.6 grams to make this Peugeot legal: Please don't hesitate to PM me for any specific details regarding the Red Roo or any other chassis you may be contemplating for your OAPR entry. I am very happy to share my knowledge of these cars with anyone wanting to learn about them. At the same time, if you have any positive input and you want to add to this concept for everyones benefit, please go ahead and let us know. Cheers, Jan
×
×
  • Create New...