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I have been asked to share some details on how I set up my Sideways Lamborghini, as compared to the standard setup which I have tuned in my Sideways BMW M6. So I thought best to share for the benefit of all. I am not the best builder in our club, let alone across forum. I MAY be the untidiest and the roughest, a badge of grunge that I wear with pride. But my cars go "well enough" to be in the mix at our weekly club race nights. The M6 using stock componentry Front tyres, stock, glued and trued not coated. They will need it as they feel a bit tacky. Front axle, height set with grub screws. Braid - standard. Sideways used their really soft braid on my model of this car. About 3 grams lead near the guide to keep the nose down. None anywhere else. Pod - I have inserted 0.5mm thick soft spacers between the underside of each side pod-screw post and the top of the chassis. Pod screws set with almost no visible slop, JUST off tight so it doesn't flex off the chassis. Maybe 0.1mm gap. This is to absorb shock forces from the torquey motor and bumps on the track. It also raises the pod 0.5mm thus lowering the ride height. Rears, glued and trued. I have tried Sideways Hi-Grip Soft, NSR Ultragrip, Slot.it G25, and N22. All have had a dose of black-arts sauces. There is only about a 0.1 second a lap spread between the 4 tyre sets on my track, I forget which feet it has on it at present. Body screws - changed to a different half thread M2.1 x 7mm screw which suits my screwdriver, and have fitted 1mm soft spacers instead of metal ones to cushion the body movement. Body, not showing from above, but I have nicked another tip from ChrisGuyW, and mounted little blocks of soft foam rubber inside the middle of the body, JUST clear of the chassis, so the body has rock but a limitation of rock for loading the outside tyre on corners. Spoiler - changed to a soft rubber one for club racing. Original stored !! I have been swapping around the wheel/tyre sets between this, the Lamborghini and my Slot.it Maserati these others both being sidewinder. The Maserati is markedly un-fussy, and runs pretty much the same regardless of which shoes it is wearing. In each case the O.D. of the final tyre setup has slight variation which affects final gearing. With the Maserati, I have swapped spurs going up or down a tooth to compensate as needed. It always feels slightly big and lumbering and heavy, despite being quite a light setup in reality. The lead is only 0.8mm thick, maybe 5 grams per visible slab. But it stays in the slot and is very predictable to drive right to the limit, with no bad habits from day one. I haven't had to do much to this car at all. Body screws - changed to a different half thread M2.1 x 7mm +10mm screws which suit my screwdriver, and have fitted 1mm soft spacers instead of metal ones to the screws to cushion the body movement Note: The Maserati has a 3 screw body mount - two at font. I like this for setting the amount of body float. I haven't done anything else to this car, and it is running very good times on my track. The Lambo is a bit more picky, it wants lots of grip to stop the heavier setup below. The Lambo has been converted to sidewinder, and up-powered to a ScaleAuto 25K S--can To run it in our local GT3 class I would have had to use a Shark 22, a Slot.it MX16, a ScaleAuto 20k, or the stock "baby" Raptor/King So this setup is actually for our GT1 class And yes, it has been modified a fair bit. I replaced the chassis with a hard one, roughly sprayed so the red doesn't show when body is fitted. About 8 grams weight at the guide - I did that right back at the started, and could possibly reduce this now. Another 10 grams in the pod, I need to play with reducing this. Pod - I have inserted 0.5mm thick soft spacers between the underside of each pod-screw and the top of the chassis. - I am thinking that with this amount of power, I should swap out the standard 0.5mm offset pod, for a ball race version, as they eliminate the possibility of 0.02mm tolerance between axle and gimbal bush. Ergal 12 tooth Pinion, nice and quiet. Spur - It is showing a 36 tooth. I had a 32 tooth in it, but felt I lacked brakes. I put in the 36 tooth in it yesterday as an experiment ..... it has too much braking now. I need to split the difference to a 34 tooth for my track. The 36 would work on the tightest track in club, the 32 or a 33 on our largest and most open track - Thunder Road. Tyres, again, it has had a try with Sideways Hi-Grip Soft, NSR Ultragrip, Slot.it G25, and N22. I like it best with the N22 and the Hi Grip. The G25 were very smooth, but I felt it lacked bite under brakes. I have just fitted a set of NSR 20x12 Extremes which are a bit of a pig to true, but have even more bite and grip. I may stay with these. Body screws - changed to a different half thread M2.1 x 7mm screw which suits my screwdriver, and have fitted 1mm soft spacers instead of metal ones to cushion the body movement Spoiler - changed to a soft rubber one for club racing. Original stored !! Basically, I still have some development to do on this car as it is still a little off the GT1 pace.
This was in response to someone's problem "elsewhere" I decided to do a really quick setup of a Sideways 320, to see if I could replicate his problem of the front end lifting out of corners. To answer the OPs initial question, there is only one chassis design for the BMW 320, code SW320 - it comes as standard SW320/A (standard) and a more flexible version SW320/A1 (shudder, I fear the flexi-chassis, we want uber-stiff for wood track racing.) We had a couple of these running in the Group 5 proxy down here last year, - and 3 years back ( I missed the year in-between). One of them by a known good car builder from Oz was a podiumite at the end of one series. GAS41T? I can't think of any mechanical/engineering/physics reason why this particular model should exhibit such characteristic, but not knowing their club/class rules or the surface they are running on, it was hard to comment. So that set me a challenge. I set one up this afternoon while the wife was out and about. Car is SW58 as below Basic setup will be stock chassis, 0.5mm offset on the pod, soft braid, maybe a braid spacer or two to ensure full depth guide, with axle set as high as practical. I'll set up unweighted, then add 8 - 10 grams in my usual places. AW flat-6with no weight in front, really does need something on all the Group 5 cars to enable sharp acceleration out of corners. We mostly convert to SW here, then balance them. I'll use some known wheel tyre sets on the back to save time. - already trued and treated NSR Ultragrips on the back from my M1, and then swap to some treated Slot.it N22 off another car - that have about the same grip level. My track surface is smooth wood. Grip is pretty high, though we have a couple of enamel painted tracks around that lock up tighter. Okay, I did a really quick OOTB setup. 'Scuse the rough video clip didn't want to get too anal on time and quality of car or video. It took me longer to make the video than it did to roughly tune the car LOL Pod screws are about 1 turn off tight, the same as the body screws - I forgot to mention that in the video As it is already doing 5.1 around my track, I would only be hunting about a 0.2 per lap improvement; so it's reasonable in this quickly set up state - just noisy. Not sure what the tyres are, they could be an 11mm Ultragrip or a PT1172N22. Slot.it., as they come out looking and performing about the same after I run them on my softening jig for a few hours. I used the ones off my orange-bell sidewinder Moby Dick, which is my low powered "nimble" car I use on short tracks in our racing group; as I couldn't get the hubs from my M1 inside the wheel arches The body on part - is still an unweighted car. http://youtu.be/d057zAfr51M Further tuning would be step by step, something like this. Soft washers on all screw load points Tinker with the pod looseness, especially the side float screws Check for "click points" - interferences between body and chassis Shift to 1.0mm offset, to lower the back Reduce front tyre diameter to drop the front, as the axle is already near the top of chassis adjustment Maybe add those guide spacers, I haven't used any as yet Coat the fronts, or shift to a zero grip tyre Check body/interior for fully fixed and not flexing Longer body screws to allow more float Mess with gear mesh a little and shut up the noise Perhaps glue the motor to the pod for extra stiffness Tape the underside of the pod to chassis then loosen the pod screws another turn Then start fiddling with weight