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old_skool_m

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About old_skool_m

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    gibbon motorsport
  • Birthday 03/17/1987

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    Australia
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  1. Hey guys, it's been a while. Ferrodor paint is usually pretty rough and although the copper tape will probably stick for a while, you'd be alot better off masking the paint and placing in on the wood. That way it should stick down alot longer. As for the shorting out, most metal oxides won't conduct electricity unless you melt them (iron oxide in this case?), so there should be no problems with that.
  2. Proslot did exactly that with their r390, although slot.it are a far more reputable company so im pretty sure there gonna release it.
  3. Although I dont have much experience on plastic, the theory should be the same. For the easy de-slotting, check your front tyre's and make sure their not holding the guide out of the slot, the same for the braids. I'm pretty sure the fly GT1's come with stub axles, if it does have stub axles replacing them with a single solid axle will improve the cornering significantly. Cant think of much else at the moment, perhaps you could be a bit more descriptive of what the cars doing on the track?
  4. 25 ohm is the way to go for non magnet racing on routed tracks, it's what I use and most the people I know use anyway. 45 is alright, but 25 is better.
  5. Is plastic scratch build an option? I was considering making a PCB chassis
  6. If it does go ahead I'd be definitely interested in entering a car.
  7. Nice work phil, saves me a bit of time, good thing I checked here before I started drawing. One thing though, the circuit that I used in a couple of my cars simply used a diode and no voltage regulator and they still stayed on all the time, what exactly does the voltage regulator do?
  8. I reckon definitely go with the NC2, they've got have to best manufacturing tolerance as they all just about perform the same.
  9. I couldnt agree more about the parma turbo's, pretty much all the club guys at Thunderbirds use them, including myself. Although I havent used a professor controller, I did get one of the Parma E.C. electronic controllers when they came out. What can I say about it - Complete waste of time. Like longbeach said about the professor It had the huge wiper arc, the trigger felt flimsy and in the end the thing packed up. Luckily so many of them stoped working, the distributer took them back and returned the money.
  10. Alright, I've done a bit of a search for the piece of paper that it was printed on, but I cant seem to find it. But I can remeber pretty well what was on it, so i'll draw up a new diagram and post it tommoro.
  11. A while ago I fitted heatlights to my SCX Subaru WRX and it turned out quite sucessful. For the components I just went to Dick Smiths and Got a couple of bright LED's some resistors a big capacitor and a diode, im pretty sure it only cost me around 5 bucks. If you need a wiring diagram I should be able to dig it up and post it on here.
  12. They look pretty damn good, a huge improvement over the old armco style.
  13. Manic, I think you've done a bit of a Bo and not read the post. Ninco is in the heading.
  14. For those interested, there's a rather extensive (i mean extensive) list of 05' scalextric releases on the British MRE site, although there is no pictures. 2005 scalextric releases UPDATE: Pictures have just been added to most of the cars, and some of them look mighty impressive!
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