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Everything posted by Oldskool62

  1. @mtpanorama thanks for this. Definitely on the high side and while I appreciate the work gone into it . I'd like one a little straighter.
  2. @rosco01I always had an enjoyment out of building models. Plus I have dabbled with slot cars over the years. I guess its the best way for me to bring both together.
  3. @rosco01Too little a room isn't too bad a problem :).
  4. @big denBeing new to this forum there is such good information and older discussions that are well new to me :). Mate I'm the same, no shortage of projects and more bodies on order to keep the production line going :). I have had that old Dick Johnson Bathurst Sierra set sitting around for years and anyway I thought that I would love to resurrect the old car and see what I could do to them without butchering them too much. Over the years I did the front axle mod etc etc and well put them back on the shelf. Anyway over Christmas I pulled them off the shelf along with one of my late model Sierra's to see what I could do. Anyway the Sierra PCR chassis was selected as the weapon of choice and with a bit of grafting both the old DJ 17 & 18 cars were given a new life. I had a couple of HRS inline kits sitting around that I was going to use but wasn't prepared butcher the bodies and that's why I went the other path with the PCR chassis. I ended up using the wheels motor/pod etc from the HRS2 kits. I'm not fussed on wheel originality so am gutting down the plastic inserts you get with the HRS2 kit and making the Slot.it look like deep dish Simmons wheels. Last Thursday I took them to the local track in Penrith for a bit of a trial and they go really well. Aside from body and pod float there has been no other tuning. I'm going to play with weight later on but that can weight. As far as the HRS2 kits go. I really like them. Being new to building cars I haven't tried to build a chassis. The HRS2 kit for me and what I want to do with my cars is affordable and reasonably complete. You get the motor configuration options which is good . I know there are better chassis out there but at this stage I don't race my car's. I will once I move but for the meantime I take them to the local track in Penrith and play.
  5. Hey All, I'm almost ready to start on the Dick Johnson Greens-Tuf XE and Mustang. Because they are the same colour and also share the same livery (certain period for both that is) I am going to do both bodies at the same time. Can someone tell me what green to use, I would like to use Tamiya if possible. Cheers Warren
  6. @rosco01 I have the Tamiya compounds at home which are fantastic products. Your a wealth of information and inspiration Ross.
  7. @ZeGasThanks for this. Being new to building up slot cars I was getting pretty overwhelmed by it all. I looked at it and thought I have had some seriously glossy timber floors that handled a fair bit of punishment.
  8. @Vinnoyep that's a real possibility. I just got a set of decals for my HQ Monaro build and I am leaning towards it for sure.
  9. @rosco01out of curiosity can you get away with just the floor polish finish or do you really need the lacquer final coat? The reason I am asking is that the floor polish is super hard as it needs to because of the nature of its purpose ie foot traffic. Plus it is super shiny.
  10. @kalbfellpThanks Phil. Yeah the plastic is very hard. I have a series of different knives and scribes and they struggle to the point where I have given up. I might have a crack at heating a knife and trying it on a part that I can cover easy if I make a mistake. If all fails I just don't worry about it.
  11. @mattcrackers are you just using the floor finish or the floor finish anew then clear? Fantastic work mate.
  12. @big denI finished off my two early Dick Johnson red and yell Sierra's. I got a couple of PCR chassis and modified it to suit. Got the rear mounting hole to line up the did the old wall plug front mount post trick. Still have to finish the wheel inserts as I robbed the wheels off a couple of HRS2 kits I had. They came up pretty well and actually don't look out of place with the other late version Sierra's and other Aussie touring cars of that period. This afternoon I will be dropping down the local track and seeing how they go which is where it counts.
  13. @Wobble thanks I'll give it a go. I have various hobby knives at home and this plastic is tough.
  14. Hi All, I recently tested the water and bought a couple of 3D printed bodies. One is Dick Johnson's Fox body Mustang and the other is a EB Falcon, Both cars have the usual printing lines which after reading many posts won't be a problem to tackle. However both cars don't have the gaps around the doors and bonnet, If anything the gaps go outside not inwards. In saying this there is enough "meat' in the print on the inside to cut the gaps. Do you go to this detail; if so how do you cut the gaps? I was thinking a hot knife would be the go as the plastic is really hard. The other option is just ignoring that amount of detail and just do a good job on the paint and decals. Cheers Warren
  15. @ShaynusI'm more than happy to buy off the shelf wheels for the same reasons. I don't think I would ever get them right. @rosco01thanks for the education so far. I'm looking forward to your chassis build journey.
  16. For me I find the "like for like" type racing my favorite. I have grouped my cars in categories of what they raced in real life plus what the performance of the slot car is. For example I get a buzz out of my Carrera and Scalextric muscle cars and old touring cars as I do out of my lNSR, Slot.it's etc. I guess for me being a model enthusiast a lot of enjoyment is seeing the models you really like on a track going at pace that you and it are capable of.
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