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miked

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miked last won the day on November 5

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About miked

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  • Birthday July 13

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  1. Old modelers trick - try using colored sharpie or felt tip on the inside of the clear lens - but test on something clear first to see if shade is what you want. Or alternatively paint inside with silver then apply the clear red or orange on the outside- supposedly gives it more depth, again experiment before try on the real thing.
  2. Thanks guys for the comments. I haven't been able to get to the track to fully test the set ups yet but with the class rules, hopefully we will be all running fairly close. I wondered if the gloss clear coat was just a bit too show room shiny and not so realistic for the scale, I have read some people prefer a Semi gloss finish, may try for my next project. If I get pics of other club member Skylines, I'll post them.
  3. Our club was suppose to start racing a new class for Slotit Nissan Skyline R32s, but the Auckland lockdown has put paid to that, likely it will become a New Year class now. I thought I would have plenty of time to complete some projects but these two took me a month and a half to finish! Figuring there would be alot of Calsonic and Bathurst duplicate liveries appearing, I wanted something more unique but easy to paint. While technically fantasy liveries, they will hopefully still look the part. I'm hoping these cars will prompt the other club members to hurry up and prep their Skylines. I found the Tamiya Floro red paint is deadly on white, if you haven't masked stuff properly and sealed every nook, cranny and edge. Also pays to let it dry more than 2 days before clear coating it, otherwise it runs . - OrakeiRacer
  4. Thanks guys. Not sure how many hours work I spent on creating the decals, but it was alot. You can see my picture diary in my post "Help with DTM decals".
  5. miked

    Help with DTM Decals

    In case you were wondering - Zung Fu Brand is not related to Bruce Lee. It's Hong Kong and Macau's Mercedes distributor since 1954.
  6. miked

    Help with DTM Decals

    Pleased with the overall result, Mk 2 model hopefully will sort all the issues I had with this one but that's just me -never totally satisfied. Will need a break and do something different to clear the mind or you get too fixated. Got a Pioneer Legend Ford white kit - wonder what that would look like in "piss" yellow .
  7. This was going to be my 2nd car entry with a ring in driver, however now have plenty of time to tune the chassis properly.
  8. miked

    Help with DTM Decals

    Better Lighting - now you can see all the decal faults .
  9. miked

    Help with DTM Decals

    Hi guys. Sorry for the long pause, been a interesting past week including breaking my toe, so have had some down time. Thanks slotcar Tragic and Shaynus for your comments. True you won't notice all the faults when you are racing and Shaynus, you have some pretty good looking lockdown projects on the go - especially like the Gulf Lancia. So with a bit of time on my hands and foot resting on a cushion, I finished the Merc. Just need to road test the chassis now. Already thinking about the Mk2 version now and all the fixes I would like to do to the decals and colors while the iron is still hot, but some club car projects are calling so Mk 2 may have to wait a bit. This is the finished product in the next post, not perfect but looks the part. Need to get some photography lessons from Ember or someone on shooting slotcars, lighting is always tricky.
  10. miked

    Help with DTM Decals

    Thanks for the kind comments, still learning. Hadn't thought of spraying blank white decal patches. If they block the bleeding effectively, would be worth trying as they should retain their thinnest and flexibility, plus I would not be printing on them. Thanks for the tip.
  11. miked

    Help with DTM Decals

    Ok so started with a painted body. Masking the side stripes was tricky and clear coat before decaling turned into a bit of a disaster and i got alot of orange peel and some bubbling. Normally I get good results with Testors Ultra Gloss but maybe the weather was too cold for spraying. I was told Testors Clear coat spray can come out a bit colder causing the bubbling effect even though I had heated the spray can before using. So out came the Tamiya polish cutters to get a half decent surface. Not a good start. Patch time! Arghh - Door handles and body edges! Ok not perfect but at least the white looks white. Black decals on gold - much easier but had to do twice as first batch used too much water and all the print ran! Rear panel badge is a bit small and guard shape was tricky to mold to with the base patch. First test of gold letters, still bit dark even with the white base patch and the gold color changed to more yellow shade, must have been the black box around the text darkened the gold shade, black surround sort of blends with body black but not a perfect match. Side Gold Lettering - more yellow than gold - Need a Alps printer! Rear end - Merc badge lost it's silver, too small for my printer to keep the resolution, Bridgestone badge is Patto decal, much cleaner and sharper! Roof Merc badge was a challenge, tried to cut out the black background inside the badge so got the roof color come thru but decal lost support strength and just folded up when attempted to apply whole badge. Then tried to cut badge in half and apply in 2 pieces but still too flimsy, joins didn't line up and folded. Finally left the black background in but with larger area can see color difference to roof black. Will need to re think how to do the badge on Mk2 Merc. Ready for final clear coat to seal the decals - hope they don't run!
  12. miked

    Help with DTM Decals

    Well time flies when you are in lockdown. Can't believe it's been 2 months since I first posted this query. I reached out to a couple of suggested overseas contacts to see if they were interested in a decal project but got no reply, so figured they were too busy being in lockdown. So with time on my hands, I taught myself how to use Gimp and Inkscape( both freeware) to make decals. Amazing what you can find on You tube for "how to" lessons plus got some tips from a club member who is a longtime modeller ... thanks Paul! So with alot of Computer hours, trial and error, truck load of printer paper and printer ink, I designed a approximation of the above livery, printed it out on decal paper and created a test mule to see how proportions, colors etc looked. There are alot of things I will need to fix, tweak or change, lucky this car has a sister car, so that will be Mark 2 if I can motivate my self to do it all again! Things I learnt along the way: A Black car is hard to make decals for - the black just bleeds thru thin decals, changes decal colors Found that printed replicated "gold and silver" on decals is pretty much transparent and will just disappear if laid straight on black Any decals put on black needed a solid white base patch put down first ie was effectively laying 2 decals down Std white decal patches are still too thin on black - ended up using Patto's stickon white patches Patto's stickon patches are thicker than normal decals and not as flexible or shape conforming ie avoid door handles, body edges ..... For simulated gold or silver color logos, found printing on white decal paper better than clear but then needed to create a black box around each logo to block out any white background Black ink on decal is not the same shade as black paint, in fact can look a bit purple Don't OD on Testors Bonder when spraying your decals otherwise you will get runs Try to avoid getting top of decal wet when putting on your car as it will still run, even with 3 coats of decal bonder Do white cars next time Get someone else to make your decals! Been a interesting exercise, satisfying and frustrating, you need to be a bit OCD and the trouble is you know where all the mistakes are. I'm still looking for someone who can print real gold colors but need to fine tune my decals first for the Mark 2 version. The next post is a bit of a photo journal of decaling the test mule. Regards OrakeiRacer
  13. Nice job DC. I wondered what a Merc would look like in true Marlboro colors. Watch the hood Merc badge, I'd take it off for racing as once it falls off, you'll never see it again( how do I know this....experience)! - Orakei Racer
  14. I'm no expert but I like to use the Tamiya TS series of Lacquer spray can paints. They spray on thin, dry reasonably quick and give you a nice smooth finish. I would recommend using Tamiya's Lacquer Primer spray (white or Light grey) on the body first so your finishing coats have something to grip onto, plus it will show up any body faults/ mould lines( that you can sand off) that will show thru your final coats. For your final clear coat to protect the paint job, I use Model Masters Ultra Gloss Clear Coat or Mr Hobby 501 Gloss Clear Coat which I found is not too hot on decals. Either way you need to spray thin coats. I have read Tamiya clear coat is a bit hot especially for decals, plus you need to make sure your base colour is fully dry and gassed out ( maybe 3 or 4 days drying) before using the clear coat as it has a different drying time which may react to uncured paint and may crack. Take your time, don't rush your coats or lay them too thick in one go and warm your spray cans in hot water and shake well.
  15. miked

    Help with DTM Decals

    Hi Vinno That would be good. Thanks.
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