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Everything posted by Chrisguyw

  1. Hi Terry, torsional flex in a chassis is a good thing, as it lets the chassis load progressively in a corner, and you will find all "high end" scratchbuilt chassis incorporating it. It is equally important to engineer in the correct amount of flex, and as a general rule of thumb,.....the quicker the motor, the stickier the tires, the faster the track, the stiffer the chassis...With the opposite being true of course. The FF050 motored F1 cars with their skinny tires, low powered motors, and, racing on club tracks can be quite "soft" indeed, and to be honest your 1.2mm torsion bars are massively thick/stiff. I find that most of the scratchbuilt "Flexi board" chassis that I have seen in either proxies, club racing, or, brought into the shop, have been far too stiff. In similarly motored chassis, I have never used anything thicker than.032 (.8mm) and this was with very long bars.....most typically I use bars between .025 and .030, depending on their length. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of shots of some F1 chassis using "thin" torsion bars...............these have all won the proxies they ran in.
  2. Well done......It would appear from the picture that you have set the vertical centerline of the bushing placement above the motor shaft centerline ???..........what is the "offset" measurement ??,.....and, did you incorporate holes in the bulkhead for motor screws !! Cheers Chris Walker
  3. Hi Den, The SCX "Pro" pod only fits the SCX "Pro" cars, of which there were only a few....... 2 COT Nascars (Ford and Chevy) an Audi R8 , a Porsche 911 GT3, and a 4 wheel drive Citroen Xsara rally car. These cars were not sold in sets, and came in kit form in a Box, clearly marked "Pro".......not your run of the mill SCX !! I have both the Audi and the 911 (sorry not a Nascar fan), and with some sorting, they are more than potent cars,....no comparison to any other SCX. If you can find one, I would certainly recommend. The motor pod will accept any can drive FC130, FK180., or Flat6 , using 2mm motor screws (you will obviously need to use the top holes on the Flat 6 can due to its lower profile) ... The bracket is rigid enough that adapters are completely unnecessary,....2mm motor screws and you are good to go. Cheers Chris Walker
  4. Hi Shayne,....all the "Pro" motor pods are the same................why are you trying to print one ??......can't find originals/spares ??, trying to improve on it ??, and, what would you do to improve it ?? It is quite a good pod as is.....a stiff back end,.. it has motor screw holes in the bracket, and it will accept either spherical or single flanged bushings. Just curious...... Cheers Chris Walker
  5. Fairly even,..........but as each driver must run a heat in each lane, it all works out in the end Cheers Chris Walker
  6. Hi Mark, Different tracks for different folks..........there are lots of folks who drop by with their kids, and want to use the cars they got for Xmas/Birthdays etc., and a track that works with their magnet cars is of benefit to them........as well , if one does sell plastic tracks, having a working example in store is not a bad idea. While it is certainly not a wood track in terms of pure performance, built and powered well (which it is) it is not a bad surface at all, and plastic is widely used in 1/32 and 1/24 racing in Europe and elsewhere. All round, it is certainly better than the other plastic alternatives. As far as a wood track, there is one of those as well, it will be a spray glue track, for the metal chassis type cars,..........it was built by, Steve Olgilvie (builder of hundreds of commercial tracks), and while Ernie has many skills, he has never built a wood track Excuse the bad pictures, but this is progress (slow) to date. Cheers Chris Walker The Policar track needs a few more border bits, and a good clean, but, is essentially done. The Ogilvie wood track, has been painted (epoxy paint) and is currently being taped/braided.
  7. Hello Rob,........You could file it, but, it will take a while ............I use a dremel/cut off disc to take off most of the material, and then clean it up with a file. The cut off disc will cut the tube quickly and easily. Take a bit at a time, you only need to take enough so that the face of the axle (closest to the motor can) is just proud of the tube. Use a file to just score the inside edges of the pod bushing holes, and glue the tube in..............the use of this tube is a very worthwhile modification on any pod where it will fit (sidewinder/anglewinder). Hope this helps Cheers Chris Walker Another example.......this one was done years ago to an older Ninco (no pod ) chassis. I did rebuild the motor box to add rear end stiffness, and added some adjustable front axle blocks. It was one of my quickest/best handling cars......it has been given to a new owner, and is still winning club events. In this case, the angle of the motor did not require any mods. to the axle tube.
  8. Hi Mark, I understand and appreciate your concerns/issues with MRSlotcar, and, I am only forwarding this post from a "what is possible" design perspective. The standard MRSlotcar FF050 sidewinder pod utilizes a 5.5mm pinion, with a 15.5mm Spur, and has plenty of motor/axle clearance, as well as ample room (clearance and pod upright durability) for standard double flanged snap in bushings. For higher RPM FF050 motors (that favour a higher numeric gear ratio), I do regularly use a 4.5mm pinion, with a 16.5mm Spur, again, with no clearance issues. This is a pic. of a 30K Ff050 installed into the MRSlotcar pod, using a 4.5mm pinion, and a 16.5mm Spur.........plenty of clearance. I did slightly reduce the OD of the busing flanges, but there is sufficient clearance even if this was not done. The pod Paul has designed is just fine, (it looks good) , and , will no doubt work well, but, if a little more bushing flange clearance is needed, he could reduce the width of the inside of the rear upright support tabs he has designed into this pod, and add this "meat"to the outside of the rear uprights. (You will notice in the above pic. that the inside edges of the bushing flanges are just outside the can edges) Again, I am in no way trying to interfere/denegrate......just trying to provide some info on what can be done to engineer around a "fit" issue. Cheers Chris Walker PS As I mentioned in a previous post, in a recent proxy that allowed either a stock Scaley FC130, or, a Scaley FF050, the top 3 cars were all 050 powered. (all tracks were typical twisty wood club tracks)
  9. Hi Mark, As 5mm pinions are far from common, and as most folks will not turn down 18mm spurs to 17.5, (not really recommended) , it would seem that the pod with the reduced spacing will be considerably less useful (and somewhat more confusing) for most folks.The pod with the 5.5mm pinion/18mm spur spacing will allow (with good mesh) 5.5mm pinions of 8/9/10T and 18mm Spurs with between 31 to 36T. This would seem to be the simple route as both 5.5mm pinions and 18mm spurs are basically universally available, and understood by most. As an option to the standard spacing (5.5mm/18mm) Motor/axle spacing to accommodate a 5.5mm pinion and a 16.5mm spur, would be, to my mind, a much better second option, but, I do appreciate your comments on your desire to stock 16.5mm spurs Cheers Chris Walker
  10. Hi Folks, As a kid, I was never a big fan of the Strombecker cars, largely because of their relative lack of performance (vs. the stuff I was running/building) but, they did make some very nice and accurate molds, and, with a little work, they can be made into some very very nice cars. So, a few decades later, I have become a bit of a fan, and have found and restored quite a few. All of the cars below run on either the Strombecker 2 piece brass "Competition" chassis, or on brass/piano wire chassis that I have built for them.......a couple of the scratchbuilt cars are more than a match for all but the best current plastic cars. Cheers Chris Walker PS some may have seen these on another forum,......so,......just look away McKee Mk 10......... Lotus 30........ Cheetah........... Another Cheetah............ Ferrari Dino............. Ford J car........... Lotus 19............. McLaren M1B........... Porsche RS60.......... Ferrari 265..........
  11. Hi Paul, Assuming you are using the typical (.5 module) pinions/spurs from Slot-it/NSR/Tslot, etc,. and not pure pitch gears, I do not understand why you would need varying motor shaft/axle clearance between an 8T and 9T pinion..............both pinions, (given your stated tooth count) should be 5.5mm in diameter, and the spurs 18mm. ?? Cheers Chris Walker PS would love to see a pic. of the finished pod.
  12. A couple of comments on your pod(s) so far Bingo........hope you do not mind !!......they do look good !! In a previous post, Mark mentioned that for cars with smaller od. wheels/tires, a 17/5 mm spur gives a tad more track clearance for a given rear tyre dia., which is certainly a bonus.........give the space between the rear axle and motor can, you could consider doing a pod with less gap,....one which would utilize a 16.5mm spur (MRSlotcar), coupled with a 5.5mm pinion. The smaller spur does offer some benefits......... 1/ It allows even smaller rear dia. rear tyres to be used, still with reasonable track clearance. 2/ For long proxy events, or for those that run their tyres for ages, it allows more wear to occur without track damage 3/ It sits level with the bottom of the pod face, which helps protect the spur in an "off" 4/ Most importantly, for a given rear tyre dia, it allows the use of a smaller dia, wheel, coupled with a taller tyre sidewall, which offers more tyre compression, aiding grip. All the above points must obviously be measured against any of your club rules !! For the above reasons, I use only 15.5 or 16.5mm spurs in all my race cars. Cheers Chris Walker
  13. slotcrazy, on 15 Sept 2020 - 7:54 PM, said: Hi Mark, Excellent idea, you will not be disappointed !! I have used FF050 motors in both scratchbuilt and plastic car chassis for quite some time, in inline, sidewinder, and anglewinder configurations. Although they obviously do not have the pure grunt of the FC130 or FK180 motors, their lighter weight, certainly reduces the "polar moment of inertia", and therefore improves the handling and the transitional response. While on longer more open tracks. the grunt of the 130/180's is tough to beat, on shorter twistier club tracks the FF050 powered cars more than hold their own. (just gear them properly) The Policar FF050, is certainly the pick of the litter among the 050's, and, I have used this motor in a couple of recent proxies with very good success. A commercial grade oilite (3/32 x 3/16) offers more precision, and is as free running as any bushing offered by any of the typical plastic car offerings............the Prof. Mtr. oilites fall into this category, and, I use single flanged oilites in all my car/pods. The single flanged bushing also allows (with a simple pod modification) for the option of narrowing the rear end, for those cars with slim rear ends. Cut the "fingers" that hold the spherical bushings, ream the holes to 3/16 and align/glue the oilites. The picture below is an example on an inline...........I needed a very narrow rear end (Austin Healy Sprite), so the flanges were installed inboard..........saved a few precious mm per side. A few examples of the FF050 in various chassis. This car was built for the SCCA proxy 2/3 years back...........you could use an 18K FC130, or, a Policar 050,............the top 3 cars all used the 050. This has oilites, flanges mounted inboard. This 050 is mounted in a MRSlotcar sidewinder pod............extremely well balanced !!,.........it has since been replaced with a Policar 050 This 050 sidewinder pod is designed to use a 4.5mm pinion, and a 15.5mm spur This is a Policar in a 3D anglewinder pod from LEB Hobbies. The pod did need a fair bit of work, but this car (built for this years SCCA proxy....050 or 18K FC130) appeared to be the class of the field, until it was postponed after just a few rounds due to Covid. This pod also had the protruding bushing "feelers" removed, and single flanged oilites installed........I needed the extra space, and the oilites just offer more precision. And an 050 in a scratchbuilt sidewinder,.........again, the motor has since been replaced by a Policar.......one of my best all round cars for club type tracks. This was posted on another Forum, and Mark asked that I post it here. Cheers Chris Walker
  14. Hi Mark, ........as it is a commercial venue, it will invariably take some punishment, so it will be fixed in position. This will be Ernie's 6th commercial shop, and I have no doubts that both tracks will be assembled/wired/powered/finished to a very high standard. Cheers Chris Walker
  15. Lots of power taps (every 10 sections), and a regulated variable voltage 50Amp power supply. Cheers Chris Walker
  16. Likely not too many of the regulars here will ever see this in person, but, I thought I would post a couple of pics. of the work in process tracks that will be in Ernie Mosettis' soon to be open shop. First a 135ft. 6 lane Policar track..............mainly for 1/32 plastic based cars. And yet to be painted/braided Ogilvie 135ft (ish) flat track.........this will be a spray glue track. Although not seen in the pics., there is plenty of room for pit tables, shop etc. Cheers Chris Walker
  17. Hi Mark, Just found the answer on one of my posts elsewhere.............all NSR "triangular" sidewinder pods take the 31mm Sloting Plus axle tube. The 29.9mm and the 31.6mm tubes will not work without either removing one of the tube flanges, and, or ,modifying the axle mount uprights...........if you can't find a 31mm, the mods needed on the other two sizes are certainly worth the effort however. Cheers Chris Walker
  18. Hi Mark, I honestly can't remember,...........I am away from home for a few days, but will measure and report back then. While there is a bit of leeway, it is obviously better to use the closest size to minimize any pod distortion/stress. Cheers Chris Walker
  19. Hi Rob, The folks in our local clubs' use lots of the NSR 'hard" red pods, with so far, no issues. That said, most of the guys do open the holes very slightly, and, take a little off of the inside of the tops of the fingers/tabs that secure the motor, which allows the motor to be installed without overly stressing the pod. As all of our motors are secured with screws/glue, there is no worry that the motor will move/pop out. A couple of tips, if I may,.........always install the motor into the pod before installing/aligning/gluing axle bushings................when a motor is installed, it can cause slight deflection of the rear uprights, and this deflection is enough to "un align" the bushings causing binding. Installing the motor first, eliminates this issue. Secondly, It is not a bad idea to immerse the pod into some hot tap water for a few seconds, before installing either the motor or bushings............this will tend to soften any brittle pods. Cheers Chris Walker PS, If you can get one of these Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings. they are wonderful............they stiffen the rear end, considerably (which helps greatly with any chatter) and eliminate any potential alignment issues with the axle bushings, as they "lock" the rear uprights. They come with sintered bronze bushings installed, and come in 3 different lengths to accommodate many side/angle winder pods. I have been using them for 10/12yrs+ (they were initially created to eliminate "Ninco" hop), and use them in any chassis where they can be made to fit. Here is one fitted to an NSR sidewinder pod......
  20. Hi David, Tamiya TS23 (light blue) looks to be mighty close !! Cheers Chris Walker
  21. While our local area clubs do have detailed and published rules by class of car, we do not have a formal scrutineering process before each race..........instead we randomly choose 3 cars to be seen (bodies off) at the end of the event. The 3 are determined before the start of the race, according to finishing positions, which change weekly, and, are, drawn prior to the race start. This allows all "if interested" to have a quick peek, and ask questions...........this seems to keep everyone in order, and does help the newer/less experienced racers. For larger more important races, a full scrutineering session is done before the meeting starts. Cheers Chris Walker
  22. Hi Rosco, I think that you will find that the team cars were red in 1966, and then changed to "Papaya" orange in 1967 and beyond. While a few "customer" cars were certainly blue, the team cars did not run in blue.. Strombecker molding one in blue has little bearing on reality, they produced Chaparrals' in both red and yellow Cheers Chris Walker
  23. Well, It has taken a while, but I am finally done. I did have to make a few bits, and the windshield, which was not in great shape, was a bugger to get in even decent shape. I tried to get a less than high gloss/perfect finish as the cars from that era were far from perfect !! This is what I was loosely trying to replicate........... And this is where I ended up..........
  24. If that is the Medium size, the Small might just do the trick,.....unless you want to build 4 chassis at a time Cheers Chris Walker
  25. Hi Paul, If the "Precision" jig is, either too costly, or currently unavailable,...........try looking at the "basic jig" sold by Slot Car Corner (and I am sure others). It goes for $16.99 US (they sell the pins separately $9.99, or you could cut some from piano wire). It is a ceramic board, which is obviously just fine for soldering on, and it has masses of holes (as you can see) so wheelbase, track, and chassis rail alignment points should be easy to adjust...........you just need to check twice on the pin locations, as the masses of holes do play tricks on the eyes I have seen some really nice chassis' built using this jig.......although the jig is not solely responsible Cheers Chris Walker
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