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Everything posted by Chrisguyw

  1. Really well done Terry ................I did this one many moons ago, starting with a resin kit I bought 10+ years ago......it needed a fair bit of work. It was done to represent the car of Roy Salvadori from 1962. At the time, I used Google images to source some body colour shots, and unfortunately picked the colour from a "restored" Lola Mk4 that ran at the Goodwood revival,.......this was a lighter blue than the correct "Bowmaker" blue. Luckily, I had 2 of the kits, and the second was done a much darker "Bowmaker" blue. Unfortunately, I do not have a handy pic. of that car. This is the pic. of the car in the "incorrect" lighter blue. Cheers Chris Walker
  2. All things being equal, I do not find Ergal Spurs to be any noisier than plastic,.....if you do have a pinion that is off center, damaged tooth etc. then the plastic Spur may well be quieter. but, this is only masking an issue that should be fixed. While many 1/32 plastic car racers do use/like plastic gears, I generally stay away from them for the following reasons. A gear that is "cut" (Ergal, Brass, Steel) is generally more precise than a molded plastic/nylon gear, especially when the gear molds are getting on. Plastic Spur gears must be bonded to an aluminum hub, another potential for "misalignment" Plastic pinions have a plastic (soft) bore, and, unless installed very carefully, they are prone to wobble. If everything is concentric to start with, and, assembled well, the low torque of all the motors most commonly used in our plastic cars is not enough to really cause much variation in wear between Nylon/Erga Cheers Chris Walker
  3. From a slotcar perspective the only advantage to using hypoid gears is that they are designed to work with the rear axle above the centerline of the motor shaft, which for a given sized rear tire will lower the cg. Hypoid/bevelled gears were never really designed to be quieter, but rather they were designed for heavy industrial (high torque) applications where having the load spread across the entire face of the gear teeth was beneficial..........no slot car motors have that much torque, but, hypoid do have a place in slotcar racing due to the lowering of the cg. by raising the rear axle in relation to the motor shaft. They are also designed with a specific "offset" in mind,.....the teeth on a Slot-it "offset" contrate are cut to work best with the rear axle 1mm above the motor shaft, excessive deviations in the "offset" amount will result in poor/noisy mesh. So if your rear axle is level with the motor shaft (this only applies to inline motor configurations), and your gears are well installed, are in good shape, are close to ideal pitch (more on this in a moment) and the mesh is set correctly they will be whisper quiet. As all of the plastic car manufacturers play silly bugger with their pinions and Spurs (in simple terms they alter the tooth shape to fit more/less teeth on a fixed diameter) it is good to know what is the ideal tooth count for any given diameter, as , if too many teeth are added/subtracted, mesh issues occur, as at a point, the pitch has to change. So here is a "conversion thingie", that applies to all NSR/Slot-it/Scaleauto/MRSlotcar/Scaley gears. Take the diameter of the gear and multiply by 2, then minus 2. EG a 6.5mm pinion x 2 = 13 - 2 = 11T,..........for a 6.5mm diameter pinion an 11T is as close to .5 module as you will get,.....so "perfect" .5 module EG a 18mm Slot-it spur x 2 = 36 - 2 = 34,........."perfect" pitch for an 18mm spur is 34T You can deviate plus or minus 1T from "perfect" on a pinion without issues, and plus minus 2 teeth on a Spur before issues arise. Hope this helps Cheers Chris Walker
  4. Rosco, You need a 15.5mm Spur......buy the 15.5mm straight cut ergal Spur from MRSlotcar,......there is absolutely no need (or advantage ) to using an"angled" Spur, these went out of vogue in the early seventies, and you will not see a high end 1/32 or 1/24 club or commercial track car using them. Similarly, many folks running 1/32 plastic cars do not think of using them. Straight cut Spurs can also be used boss in , or, boss out, depending on your spacing/clearance. And by the way, there is no such thing as a dedicated inline/Sidewinder/anglewinder pinion, just pinions of different diameters,.....the different diameters of both pinion and Spurs, allow you to play with many gear ratio variations, and "fit" gears into many motor configurations.........eg, on your McLaren you could use........a 6.5mm pinion with a 15.5mm Spur,....a 5.5mm pinion with a 16.5mm Spur, or, a 7.5mm pinion with a 14.5mm Spur...(all these Spur sizes are available from MRSlotcar). The MRSlotcar gears are cut by Sonic, who has been making high end slotcar gears for decades,...their quality is better than the Chinese made gears, which virtually all plastic car manufacturers use. PS You can also play with varying size pinions and Spurs from Slot-it/NSR/SCaleauto etc. etc. Cheers Chris Walker
  5. Hi Terry, Colin at RSSlotracing has Ortmann urethane repros for the 1/24 Monogram cars.......taken from the original molds, so , they do have the original sidewall detail. Cheers Chris Walker
  6. Hi Rosco, All of the pics. I can find of the Elfin mono have offset steering wheels,....likely to provide a touch more clearance for the drivers right hand when accessing the gear lever !! So,..........Terry should be docked a few points in the concours judging cheers Chris Walker
  7. Well done Terry, and bang on with the colour choice !!! Cheers Chris Walker
  8. I received a VIP set in 1962 for Xmas,...and was the happiest kid in the world. While not overly quick, they were extremely smooth and, very well engineered. I still have both of these cars, and while I have replaced several parts over the years (with NOS parts) they are still a joy to drive. Cooper And a very rare "Straightnose" Sharknose Ferrari.............most have a distinct upwards warp in the nose.
  9. A bit longer than your longest guide blade. Cheers Chris Walker
  10. Hi Rosco, Phil correctly answered your question. PS Most set-up blocks have the slot simply cut through the entire depth of the material......easier than milling , and you don't need a milling machine !! Cheers Chris Walker
  11. Rosco, If you are running on Sport track, milling a 2mm trench is far from ideal....... you are trying to make the set-up block as close to the surface of you track as possible, otherwise your front end ride height will be "off". As Scaley track has slightly raised rails, I would just mill a slot in the alu. for the guide blade, and put strips of tape along the slot, to mimic the raised rails of your Scaley track.......as I have done with the "yellow" tape in my earlier post. Cheers Chris
  12. Hi Rosco. If you run primarily on Sport track, you will not need to cut any relief into the aluminum, as Scaley rails are not recessed............the purpose of the recess or tape on the aluminum block is to mimic the track surface you are running on (recessed braid or raised rails) ......it has nothing to do with the braid on the car. As far as weight balance, most good cars end up being around a 40/60 balance (40 FRONT. 60 REAR), but do not regard this as gospel,........build and test your cars without any weight added,....test,.... and the car will let you know what it needs as far as weight/weight position. Variables include.....track design/grip, motor power, gear ratio, tyre grip, chassis dynamics etc. Cheers Chris Walker
  13. Hi Rosco,.......to answer your first question,...yes colour/paint the inside of the lens, ...looks much better, and, lasts much longer !! As far as the aluminum set-up block,............I use it for setting front end ride height.....one side has a 5 thou. relief cut either side of the slot (for braided tracks), and the side you see has no relief, but I have placed some masking tape on either side of the slot to replicate the raised rails/copper tape of the track this car was set to run on. Most good commercial tracks will have similar blocks (acrylic/alu. etc.).....one side flat, one side with a relief (the blocks do come with various relief depths depending on the particulars of your track).......I have a few for various braid depths. This makes accurate front end set-up easy.....and more importantly,....precise !! Cheers Chris Walker FYI,...a pic of the other side of the block, showing the relief (left side) cut beside the slot.
  14. A second vote for Tamiya clear acrylics.............have used them for years on clear parts with zero issues...either hand brushed or air brushed. Cheers Chris Walker Most recently I have used Tamiya clears on this 997.....tailights, and headlight covers.
  15. Chrisguyw

    Adapter Sleeves

    Hi Den, no need at all to tap the sleeves, and using a dremel and a cut off disc you can cut the initial slot into the tubing, and clean it up with a small square file........should be relatively quick and easy. Cheers Chris Walker
  16. Chrisguyw

    Adapter Sleeves

    Hello Den, I just spoke with Ernie Mossetti at MRSlotcar (Canada), and there may be a way to get you some 1/8 to 3/32 sleeves. Ernie does deal with Armchair racer in Artamon NSW.......so,.......they could contact him and have him send some to them. You could also contact him directly (Facebook) and he could ship from here. I have used both the Parma ones and the MRSlotcar ones, and the MRSlotcar versions are much more precise than the Parma ones. Cheers Chris Walker
  17. Chrisguyw

    Adapter Sleeves

    Hello Den, As you know, both Parma and MRSlotcar (Canada) make sleeves to reduce the bore of the 1/8 bore Crowns to 3/32,.....but I do not know of a down under supplier. Parma and Redfox do make 3/32 bore Crowns, but the Parma ones are now like finding hens teeth, and, are certainly more costly than a sleeve. Even if you could produce a printed sleeve, I would be wary as the precision is likely not there. Next time you are watching Ozzie football, sit there with a Dremel and make your own Cheers Chris Walker
  18. Hello Vinno, for the reasons you have stated I stay away from adjustable height rear bushings. Even using a jig with se-up block wheels, they are a pain to align properly., and are prone to moving in their housings................likely someone thought this was a cool idea, but in reality, they are far from that If you want to play with rear axle position, buy fixed position plastic offset pods, or, better yet, scratchbuild you chassis PS most, if not all high performance slot car chassis have the rear bushings soldered in place (aligned first) for a reason. Cheers Chris Walker
  19. Hi davo43,.........I forgot to give you one more thing to check/do If you are going to use the stock bushings, check for the following..........the molding process of the pod sometimes results in the plastic fingers of the bushing holders being a touch proud of the bushing faces,.....this is far from ideal as it adds friction, and reduces precision. The following pic., (albeit a Slot-it pod) illustrates this....... To rectify this,......remove the spherical bushings, and with a file/dremel disc, remove a few thou. from the outside edges of the fingers so the face of the bushing is just proud of the pod fingers....re install the bushings......now your spacers run on a smooth /finished surface....smoother/more precise !! The next stage is to glue the "self aligning"/ "self unaligning" bushings in place, which further improves precision by removing any slop in the pod/bushing interface. If you are interested in doing this let me know, and I can explain, but for now, my two typing fingers are getting tired. Cheers Chris Walker
  20. Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  21. Hi davo43,............A bit of info on how you are planning to go racing would be helpful !! What type tyres are you planning on using ? Are you running on wood or plastic ? If running on plastic, will you be using magnets ?.......if no, are you hoping to use the motor magnets to provide some level of magnetic downforce ? All of the above, will dictate the set-up. Cheers Chris Walker
  22. It is obvious that you have not built many chassis........ Cheers Chris Walker
  23. With a few mods., (if your rules permit ) the Cox chassis can be made to run very well indeed !! Cheers Chris Walker
  24. If you are looking for a final dia. of 24mm, I would not use a tyre made for the more modern center "stepped" wheels..............your sidewall height is going to be around 2mm, and it is likely that once trued, that you will/may cut into the internal step of the tire. RSSlot racing offer a wide range of Ortmann Vintage tires for double flanged wheels.......Monogram, Revell, K&B, Cox, Russkit etc. etc. and none of these have a center ridge moulded into the tire.,....which will be better better on all counts. Under the "Russkit" brand, you will find a model # 26,........which is 11mm wide (including sidewall bulge) and 25mm tall, and once mounted on your wheel will be a bit taller, which will give you plenty of room to "true". I have used several of these tires on similarly sized tires with no issues,........you will also find many other options in the "Vintage" tire section at RSSlotracing. Cheers Chris Walker
  25. Hi Caddo,...there are likely several options !!..........a quick check in my vintage tyre bin turned up possibilities from both Ortmann, and Paul Gage,....but, a little more info is required. Do your wheels have a center ridge, or are they vintage wheels with double flanges ???............and, what final diameter are you looking for.?? Cheers Chris Walker
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