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Chrisguyw last won the day on August 3

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About Chrisguyw

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    Kart Driver

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1. Hi Mark, ........as it is a commercial venue, it will invariably take some punishment, so it will be fixed in position. This will be Ernie's 6th commercial shop, and I have no doubts that both tracks will be assembled/wired/powered/finished to a very high standard. Cheers Chris Walker
  2. Lots of power taps (every 10 sections), and a regulated variable voltage 50Amp power supply. Cheers Chris Walker
  3. Likely not too many of the regulars here will ever see this in person, but, I thought I would post a couple of pics. of the work in process tracks that will be in Ernie Mosettis' soon to be open shop. First a 135ft. 6 lane Policar track..............mainly for 1/32 plastic based cars. And yet to be painted/braided Ogilvie 135ft (ish) flat track.........this will be a spray glue track. Although not seen in the pics., there is plenty of room for pit tables, shop etc. Cheers Chris Walker
  4. Hi Mark, Just found the answer on one of my posts elsewhere.............all NSR "triangular" sidewinder pods take the 31mm Sloting Plus axle tube. The 29.9mm and the 31.6mm tubes will not work without either removing one of the tube flanges, and, or ,modifying the axle mount uprights...........if you can't find a 31mm, the mods needed on the other two sizes are certainly worth the effort however. Cheers Chris Walker
  5. Hi Mark, I honestly can't remember,...........I am away from home for a few days, but will measure and report back then. While there is a bit of leeway, it is obviously better to use the closest size to minimize any pod distortion/stress. Cheers Chris Walker
  6. Hi Rob, The folks in our local clubs' use lots of the NSR 'hard" red pods, with so far, no issues. That said, most of the guys do open the holes very slightly, and, take a little off of the inside of the tops of the fingers/tabs that secure the motor, which allows the motor to be installed without overly stressing the pod. As all of our motors are secured with screws/glue, there is no worry that the motor will move/pop out. A couple of tips, if I may,.........always install the motor into the pod before installing/aligning/gluing axle bushings................when a motor is installed, it can cause slight deflection of the rear uprights, and this deflection is enough to "un align" the bushings causing binding. Installing the motor first, eliminates this issue. Secondly, It is not a bad idea to immerse the pod into some hot tap water for a few seconds, before installing either the motor or bushings............this will tend to soften any brittle pods. Cheers Chris Walker PS, If you can get one of these Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings. they are wonderful............they stiffen the rear end, considerably (which helps greatly with any chatter) and eliminate any potential alignment issues with the axle bushings, as they "lock" the rear uprights. They come with sintered bronze bushings installed, and come in 3 different lengths to accommodate many side/angle winder pods. I have been using them for 10/12yrs+ (they were initially created to eliminate "Ninco" hop), and use them in any chassis where they can be made to fit. Here is one fitted to an NSR sidewinder pod......
  7. Hi David, Tamiya TS23 (light blue) looks to be mighty close !! Cheers Chris Walker
  8. While our local area clubs do have detailed and published rules by class of car, we do not have a formal scrutineering process before each race..........instead we randomly choose 3 cars to be seen (bodies off) at the end of the event. The 3 are determined before the start of the race, according to finishing positions, which change weekly, and, are, drawn prior to the race start. This allows all "if interested" to have a quick peek, and ask questions...........this seems to keep everyone in order, and does help the newer/less experienced racers. For larger more important races, a full scrutineering session is done before the meeting starts. Cheers Chris Walker
  9. Hi Rosco, I think that you will find that the team cars were red in 1966, and then changed to "Papaya" orange in 1967 and beyond. While a few "customer" cars were certainly blue, the team cars did not run in blue.. Strombecker molding one in blue has little bearing on reality, they produced Chaparrals' in both red and yellow Cheers Chris Walker
  10. Well, It has taken a while, but I am finally done. I did have to make a few bits, and the windshield, which was not in great shape, was a bugger to get in even decent shape. I tried to get a less than high gloss/perfect finish as the cars from that era were far from perfect !! This is what I was loosely trying to replicate........... And this is where I ended up..........
  11. If that is the Medium size, the Small might just do the trick,.....unless you want to build 4 chassis at a time Cheers Chris Walker
  12. Hi Paul, If the "Precision" jig is, either too costly, or currently unavailable,...........try looking at the "basic jig" sold by Slot Car Corner (and I am sure others). It goes for $16.99 US (they sell the pins separately $9.99, or you could cut some from piano wire). It is a ceramic board, which is obviously just fine for soldering on, and it has masses of holes (as you can see) so wheelbase, track, and chassis rail alignment points should be easy to adjust...........you just need to check twice on the pin locations, as the masses of holes do play tricks on the eyes I have seen some really nice chassis' built using this jig.......although the jig is not solely responsible Cheers Chris Walker
  13. This was the grid for the 1967 F1 proxy that was run in North America a couple of years ago........ The cars had to have competed in the 67 Championship year, and they were pre registered to avoid duplicate numbers. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of individual cars.........the ones I still have photos of !! Marc Tylers' (Immense Miniatures)....McLaren Andi Rowlands' (policar) Al Pease Eagle. David Mitchums' concours winning Ferrari....... And the series winner........as luck would have it , my Lotus 33......
  14. Hi Rosco, If you are planning on moving the axle forward (3.5mm) in order to have the motor shaft control the lateral movement of the Crown, you may want to consider the following.........in right hand corners the lateral movement of the axle lets the motor shaft rub on the left hand side of the Crown slot....in this instance the motor shaft is spinning in the opposite direction to the Crown, causing friction, and is the main reason you frequently see bronze/brass particles in this area. While lubricating the crown slot/motor shaft helps, it does not eliminate the fact that the motor shaft/crown are rotating in different direction, when they touch in right hand corners. It is best to control lateral axle movement/mesh with axle spacers,.....and,.....although it is a pain, it is best to use these spacers on either side of the Crown, inboard of the rear bushings..........this eliminates any mesh issues should the wheels move (in or out) on the axle, which invariably happens. Stay Safe Chris Walker I have used a mix of different thickness spacers (you can't see the .005 ones) to control mesh/lash in both directions,....the mesh stays constant, and eliminates any motor shaft interference......more consistent, smoother (faster) performance, and, your gears will last forever
  15. I think that PS2003 is a 1/24 jig for "tuning fork" type chassis. While it may well work for some of your longer wheelbase 1/32 cars, it is far from ideal..........PS2201 (metric 1/32 scratchbuilder) is the most universal for 1/32 cars.............or, make your own !! Cheers Chris Walker
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