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Chrisguyw last won the day on July 22

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About Chrisguyw

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  1. A sidewinder pod (FC-130 motors), is in the works at MRSlotcar, and should be available shortly....this SW pod will come stock in the soon to be released MRSlotcar Shadow. In the interim, you could use the existing anglewinder pod, and just bolt in an FC-130......(the pod part number is MR2113).......on wood, replacing the heavy FK-180's with a 12gm. lighter FC-130 makes a noticeable difference (positive) in handling. Cheers Chris Walker PS MRSlotcar currently make a SW pod that fits the McLaren, but it is for FF050 motors...............the one below is fitted with a 30K FF-050 with neo magnets........it is a match for most any FC-130 on the MRSlotcar 135ft Policar track. Sorry for the "fuzzy" pic.,......as well, this was taken before the room was fully finished
  2. Really well done Terry ................I did this one many moons ago, starting with a resin kit I bought 10+ years ago......it needed a fair bit of work. It was done to represent the car of Roy Salvadori from 1962. At the time, I used Google images to source some body colour shots, and unfortunately picked the colour from a "restored" Lola Mk4 that ran at the Goodwood revival,.......this was a lighter blue than the correct "Bowmaker" blue. Luckily, I had 2 of the kits, and the second was done a much darker "Bowmaker" blue. Unfortunately, I do not have a handy pic. of that car. This is the pic. of the car in the "incorrect" lighter blue. Cheers Chris Walker
  3. All things being equal, I do not find Ergal Spurs to be any noisier than plastic,.....if you do have a pinion that is off center, damaged tooth etc. then the plastic Spur may well be quieter. but, this is only masking an issue that should be fixed. While many 1/32 plastic car racers do use/like plastic gears, I generally stay away from them for the following reasons. A gear that is "cut" (Ergal, Brass, Steel) is generally more precise than a molded plastic/nylon gear, especially when the gear molds are getting on. Plastic Spur gears must be bonded to an aluminum hub, another potential for "misalignment" Plastic pinions have a plastic (soft) bore, and, unless installed very carefully, they are prone to wobble. If everything is concentric to start with, and, assembled well, the low torque of all the motors most commonly used in our plastic cars is not enough to really cause much variation in wear between Nylon/Erga Cheers Chris Walker
  4. From a slotcar perspective the only advantage to using hypoid gears is that they are designed to work with the rear axle above the centerline of the motor shaft, which for a given sized rear tire will lower the cg. Hypoid/bevelled gears were never really designed to be quieter, but rather they were designed for heavy industrial (high torque) applications where having the load spread across the entire face of the gear teeth was beneficial..........no slot car motors have that much torque, but, hypoid do have a place in slotcar racing due to the lowering of the cg. by raising the rear axle in relation to the motor shaft. They are also designed with a specific "offset" in mind,.....the teeth on a Slot-it "offset" contrate are cut to work best with the rear axle 1mm above the motor shaft, excessive deviations in the "offset" amount will result in poor/noisy mesh. So if your rear axle is level with the motor shaft (this only applies to inline motor configurations), and your gears are well installed, are in good shape, are close to ideal pitch (more on this in a moment) and the mesh is set correctly they will be whisper quiet. As all of the plastic car manufacturers play silly bugger with their pinions and Spurs (in simple terms they alter the tooth shape to fit more/less teeth on a fixed diameter) it is good to know what is the ideal tooth count for any given diameter, as , if too many teeth are added/subtracted, mesh issues occur, as at a point, the pitch has to change. So here is a "conversion thingie", that applies to all NSR/Slot-it/Scaleauto/MRSlotcar/Scaley gears. Take the diameter of the gear and multiply by 2, then minus 2. EG a 6.5mm pinion x 2 = 13 - 2 = 11T,..........for a 6.5mm diameter pinion an 11T is as close to .5 module as you will get,.....so "perfect" .5 module EG a 18mm Slot-it spur x 2 = 36 - 2 = 34,........."perfect" pitch for an 18mm spur is 34T You can deviate plus or minus 1T from "perfect" on a pinion without issues, and plus minus 2 teeth on a Spur before issues arise. Hope this helps Cheers Chris Walker
  5. Rosco, You need a 15.5mm Spur......buy the 15.5mm straight cut ergal Spur from MRSlotcar,......there is absolutely no need (or advantage ) to using an"angled" Spur, these went out of vogue in the early seventies, and you will not see a high end 1/32 or 1/24 club or commercial track car using them. Similarly, many folks running 1/32 plastic cars do not think of using them. Straight cut Spurs can also be used boss in , or, boss out, depending on your spacing/clearance. And by the way, there is no such thing as a dedicated inline/Sidewinder/anglewinder pinion, just pinions of different diameters,.....the different diameters of both pinion and Spurs, allow you to play with many gear ratio variations, and "fit" gears into many motor configurations.........eg, on your McLaren you could use........a 6.5mm pinion with a 15.5mm Spur,....a 5.5mm pinion with a 16.5mm Spur, or, a 7.5mm pinion with a 14.5mm Spur...(all these Spur sizes are available from MRSlotcar). The MRSlotcar gears are cut by Sonic, who has been making high end slotcar gears for decades,...their quality is better than the Chinese made gears, which virtually all plastic car manufacturers use. PS You can also play with varying size pinions and Spurs from Slot-it/NSR/SCaleauto etc. etc. Cheers Chris Walker
  6. Hi Terry, Colin at RSSlotracing has Ortmann urethane repros for the 1/24 Monogram cars.......taken from the original molds, so , they do have the original sidewall detail. Cheers Chris Walker
  7. Hi Rosco, All of the pics. I can find of the Elfin mono have offset steering wheels,....likely to provide a touch more clearance for the drivers right hand when accessing the gear lever !! So,..........Terry should be docked a few points in the concours judging cheers Chris Walker
  8. Well done Terry, and bang on with the colour choice !!! Cheers Chris Walker
  9. I received a VIP set in 1962 for Xmas,...and was the happiest kid in the world. While not overly quick, they were extremely smooth and, very well engineered. I still have both of these cars, and while I have replaced several parts over the years (with NOS parts) they are still a joy to drive. Cooper And a very rare "Straightnose" Sharknose Ferrari.............most have a distinct upwards warp in the nose.
  10. A bit longer than your longest guide blade. Cheers Chris Walker
  11. Hi Rosco, Phil correctly answered your question. PS Most set-up blocks have the slot simply cut through the entire depth of the material......easier than milling , and you don't need a milling machine !! Cheers Chris Walker
  12. Rosco, If you are running on Sport track, milling a 2mm trench is far from ideal....... you are trying to make the set-up block as close to the surface of you track as possible, otherwise your front end ride height will be "off". As Scaley track has slightly raised rails, I would just mill a slot in the alu. for the guide blade, and put strips of tape along the slot, to mimic the raised rails of your Scaley track.......as I have done with the "yellow" tape in my earlier post. Cheers Chris
  13. Hi Rosco. If you run primarily on Sport track, you will not need to cut any relief into the aluminum, as Scaley rails are not recessed............the purpose of the recess or tape on the aluminum block is to mimic the track surface you are running on (recessed braid or raised rails) ......it has nothing to do with the braid on the car. As far as weight balance, most good cars end up being around a 40/60 balance (40 FRONT. 60 REAR), but do not regard this as gospel,........build and test your cars without any weight added,....test,.... and the car will let you know what it needs as far as weight/weight position. Variables include.....track design/grip, motor power, gear ratio, tyre grip, chassis dynamics etc. Cheers Chris Walker
  14. Hi Rosco,.......to answer your first question,...yes colour/paint the inside of the lens, ...looks much better, and, lasts much longer !! As far as the aluminum set-up block,............I use it for setting front end ride height.....one side has a 5 thou. relief cut either side of the slot (for braided tracks), and the side you see has no relief, but I have placed some masking tape on either side of the slot to replicate the raised rails/copper tape of the track this car was set to run on. Most good commercial tracks will have similar blocks (acrylic/alu. etc.).....one side flat, one side with a relief (the blocks do come with various relief depths depending on the particulars of your track).......I have a few for various braid depths. This makes accurate front end set-up easy.....and more importantly,....precise !! Cheers Chris Walker FYI,...a pic of the other side of the block, showing the relief (left side) cut beside the slot.
  15. A second vote for Tamiya clear acrylics.............have used them for years on clear parts with zero issues...either hand brushed or air brushed. Cheers Chris Walker Most recently I have used Tamiya clears on this 997.....tailights, and headlight covers.
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