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Chrisguyw last won the day on November 30 2021

Chrisguyw had the most liked content!

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About Chrisguyw

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    Kart Driver

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1. A bit longer than your longest guide blade. Cheers Chris Walker
  2. Hi Rosco, Phil correctly answered your question. PS Most set-up blocks have the slot simply cut through the entire depth of the material......easier than milling , and you don't need a milling machine !! Cheers Chris Walker
  3. Rosco, If you are running on Sport track, milling a 2mm trench is far from ideal....... you are trying to make the set-up block as close to the surface of you track as possible, otherwise your front end ride height will be "off". As Scaley track has slightly raised rails, I would just mill a slot in the alu. for the guide blade, and put strips of tape along the slot, to mimic the raised rails of your Scaley track.......as I have done with the "yellow" tape in my earlier post. Cheers Chris
  4. Hi Rosco. If you run primarily on Sport track, you will not need to cut any relief into the aluminum, as Scaley rails are not recessed............the purpose of the recess or tape on the aluminum block is to mimic the track surface you are running on (recessed braid or raised rails) ......it has nothing to do with the braid on the car. As far as weight balance, most good cars end up being around a 40/60 balance (40 FRONT. 60 REAR), but do not regard this as gospel,........build and test your cars without any weight added,....test,.... and the car will let you know what it needs as far as weight/weight position. Variables include.....track design/grip, motor power, gear ratio, tyre grip, chassis dynamics etc. Cheers Chris Walker
  5. Hi Rosco,.......to answer your first question,...yes colour/paint the inside of the lens, ...looks much better, and, lasts much longer !! As far as the aluminum set-up block,............I use it for setting front end ride height.....one side has a 5 thou. relief cut either side of the slot (for braided tracks), and the side you see has no relief, but I have placed some masking tape on either side of the slot to replicate the raised rails/copper tape of the track this car was set to run on. Most good commercial tracks will have similar blocks (acrylic/alu. etc.).....one side flat, one side with a relief (the blocks do come with various relief depths depending on the particulars of your track).......I have a few for various braid depths. This makes accurate front end set-up easy.....and more importantly,....precise !! Cheers Chris Walker FYI,...a pic of the other side of the block, showing the relief (left side) cut beside the slot.
  6. A second vote for Tamiya clear acrylics.............have used them for years on clear parts with zero issues...either hand brushed or air brushed. Cheers Chris Walker Most recently I have used Tamiya clears on this 997.....tailights, and headlight covers.
  7. Chrisguyw

    Adapter Sleeves

    Hi Den, no need at all to tap the sleeves, and using a dremel and a cut off disc you can cut the initial slot into the tubing, and clean it up with a small square file........should be relatively quick and easy. Cheers Chris Walker
  8. Chrisguyw

    Adapter Sleeves

    Hello Den, I just spoke with Ernie Mossetti at MRSlotcar (Canada), and there may be a way to get you some 1/8 to 3/32 sleeves. Ernie does deal with Armchair racer in Artamon NSW.......so,.......they could contact him and have him send some to them. You could also contact him directly (Facebook) and he could ship from here. I have used both the Parma ones and the MRSlotcar ones, and the MRSlotcar versions are much more precise than the Parma ones. Cheers Chris Walker
  9. Chrisguyw

    Adapter Sleeves

    Hello Den, As you know, both Parma and MRSlotcar (Canada) make sleeves to reduce the bore of the 1/8 bore Crowns to 3/32,.....but I do not know of a down under supplier. Parma and Redfox do make 3/32 bore Crowns, but the Parma ones are now like finding hens teeth, and, are certainly more costly than a sleeve. Even if you could produce a printed sleeve, I would be wary as the precision is likely not there. Next time you are watching Ozzie football, sit there with a Dremel and make your own Cheers Chris Walker
  10. Hello Vinno, for the reasons you have stated I stay away from adjustable height rear bushings. Even using a jig with se-up block wheels, they are a pain to align properly., and are prone to moving in their housings................likely someone thought this was a cool idea, but in reality, they are far from that If you want to play with rear axle position, buy fixed position plastic offset pods, or, better yet, scratchbuild you chassis PS most, if not all high performance slot car chassis have the rear bushings soldered in place (aligned first) for a reason. Cheers Chris Walker
  11. Hi davo43,.........I forgot to give you one more thing to check/do If you are going to use the stock bushings, check for the following..........the molding process of the pod sometimes results in the plastic fingers of the bushing holders being a touch proud of the bushing faces,.....this is far from ideal as it adds friction, and reduces precision. The following pic., (albeit a Slot-it pod) illustrates this....... To rectify this,......remove the spherical bushings, and with a file/dremel disc, remove a few thou. from the outside edges of the fingers so the face of the bushing is just proud of the pod fingers....re install the bushings......now your spacers run on a smooth /finished surface....smoother/more precise !! The next stage is to glue the "self aligning"/ "self unaligning" bushings in place, which further improves precision by removing any slop in the pod/bushing interface. If you are interested in doing this let me know, and I can explain, but for now, my two typing fingers are getting tired. Cheers Chris Walker
  12. Hi Davo43,...........As I am not sure what you would normally do to prepare your cars, so, I will go through a list,.........some you may already know/do, so, ignore the redundant points. 1/ Completely dismantle the car, and check that the main chassis plate is flat.......a small twist can be ignored as it can overcome when setting the front axle ride height. If the chassis is significantly warped, correct this by straightening by using the "hot water" straightening method. 2/ Sand/file/grind the edges of the chassis plate in order that it does not bind on any part of the body,.....you do not need much,...if it is not touching/interfering, it is fine. 3/ The standard guide is just fine, and the stock Scaleauto braid works well, although, you may want to substitute some thinner braid from NSR etc. 4/ Roll both axles on a piece of glass to ensure that they are nice and flat,.......if not, replace. (If they do need to be replaced, 3/32 drill blanks are the way to go. 5/ Both front and rear tyres will need to be glued and trued (absolutely critical on a wood track car),.....if you do not have a tyre machine, get one, or, have a friend true your tires. 6/ If you rules allow, seriously consider substituting a FC-130 motor for the FK-180 that is stock. The FK-180 works well on a plastic track where the longer/stronger magnets provide a considerable amount of magnetic downforce..........on a wood track the additional weight of the FK-180 (it weighs 12/13 gms. more than an FC-130) is detrimental to handling......this added weight at the rear, makes the rear end wash out, and makes slides harder to control. (You will be hard pressed to find any FK-180 motored car at the sharp end of any of the more competitive/advanced wood track proxies. You can screw the FC-130 into the Scaleauto pod without any need/worry about spacers/adapters. 7/ You can use some .5mm silicone washers between the bottom of the pod lugs and the top of the main chassis plate,.......secured by bolts/nylok nuts. The silicone washers provide vibration damping, and more importantly, they allow the pod to progressively twist torsionally in the chassis..............this controlled torsional movement allows the rear outside tyre to load more progressively in a corner, improving grip. (adjust the nuts/bolts so that there is the bare minimum of free plat in the washers,.....do not squish them ! The best silicone washers are currently made by ScaleRacing, ..........I have sent many to some of the Oz and NZ racers. Lots of folks duplicate the above by leaving the pod screws a touch loose, and then use a piece of fibre tape across the bottom of the chassis plate/pod to "control" the movement of the pod. This works just fine, but, the tape will fatigue, and, can peel off. 8/ When assembling the rear axle/gears/wheels, always use 2 thin (5 thou.) spacers between any rotating and non rotating surface ...eg. between a spur gear and bushing face,...wheel hub and bushing face. These spacers will act as thrust washers which will significantly reduce friction and wear. 9/ Once everything else is done/assembled, ..the last thing to do is install the front axle/wheels........... With the front wheels/axle installed, (and the car on a flat/set-up block), and with the front tyres touching , gently push down on one front corner of the chassis plate (ahead of the front wheel)....adjust the top set screw so that when you push down, the axle upright on that side does not move down. Repeat on the other side. When you are satisfied with this process, again gently press down on the front corners of the chassis (one at a time) and when you press, look to see if the opposite rear tyre comes off the surface,...if it does you need to slightly tighten the top set screw (on the side you are pushing down).....repeat on the other side. You may then want to tighten the bottom set screws, to reduce the vertical travel of the front axle (without binding anything)...........although while the car remains on the track, the bottom set screws (sorry,..grub screws for you guys),.....are irrelevant. 10/ I will not go into adding weight, as each car and track is different,......I always build my cars without weight added,....thesting will dictate where and how much is needed. (I do believe the down under clan do tend to favour heavier cars, but, again this is very much car and track dependant, so I can not really offer any concrete help. 11/ You can also add a silicone washer between the chassis plate body mount lug, and the body post (glue a washer to the chassis plate).....this will further reduce vibrations.noise. As far as body float, an inch is as good as a mile.....all you are trying to do isolate the body from the chassis, (to reduce vibrations), so as long as there is some movement/rock, you are good to go. Hope there is something here you can use, ..and let me know if you need more. Cheers Chris Walker This is a Scaleauto (C7R) that I set up for proxy/club racing.....it has done quite well. I have added weight to this chassis, but, I have painted the bits black. This is a Scaleauto Viper,...again with an FC-130 installed. On this car you can just make out the silicone washers between the pod lugs and main chassis plate, and also one glued to the rear body post lug. On this chassis I have also removed the retaining fingers for the "self aligning"..and..."self unaligning" bushings, and installed some better quality single flanged bushings. This was also done on the chassis in he first pic.,....just can't see them
  13. Hi davo43,............A bit of info on how you are planning to go racing would be helpful !! What type tyres are you planning on using ? Are you running on wood or plastic ? If running on plastic, will you be using magnets ?.......if no, are you hoping to use the motor magnets to provide some level of magnetic downforce ? All of the above, will dictate the set-up. Cheers Chris Walker
  14. It is obvious that you have not built many chassis........ Cheers Chris Walker
  15. With a few mods., (if your rules permit ) the Cox chassis can be made to run very well indeed !! Cheers Chris Walker
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