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Chrisguyw last won the day on May 12

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About Chrisguyw

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    Kart Driver

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1. If you are looking for a final dia. of 24mm, I would not use a tyre made for the more modern center "stepped" wheels..............your sidewall height is going to be around 2mm, and it is likely that once trued, that you will/may cut into the internal step of the tire. RSSlot racing offer a wide range of Ortmann Vintage tires for double flanged wheels.......Monogram, Revell, K&B, Cox, Russkit etc. etc. and none of these have a center ridge moulded into the tire.,....which will be better better on all counts. Under the "Russkit" brand, you will find a model # 26,........which is 11mm wide (including sidewall bulge) and 25mm tall, and once mounted on your wheel will be a bit taller, which will give you plenty of room to "true". I have used several of these tires on similarly sized tires with no issues,........you will also find many other options in the "Vintage" tire section at RSSlotracing. Cheers Chris Walker
  2. Hi Caddo,...there are likely several options !!..........a quick check in my vintage tyre bin turned up possibilities from both Ortmann, and Paul Gage,....but, a little more info is required. Do your wheels have a center ridge, or are they vintage wheels with double flanges ???............and, what final diameter are you looking for.?? Cheers Chris Walker
  3. Actually, ........all electric motor manufacturers call them "endbells",......and have as long as I can remember, which is longer than I care to reveal !! Cheers Chris Walker
  4. Vinno, RSSlotracing has a few variations of "American mags" resin inserts listed on their site. They have them for 2 different wheel sizes..13" and 15" wheels,..........you will be looking for the 15" They are good quality, and Colin (RSSlotracing), is very good to deal with. Cheers Chris Walker
  5. Wobble is correct !!,............stated wheel diameters (on wheels with a ridge) include the center ridge. Cheers Chris Walker
  6. Hi Matt, Your Brabhams' are from Marusan,......likely from 1965 as a lot of their cars from this year were equipped with the "posi lok" wheels, and ,sadly those god awful 3 prong nuts. The good news is that all your cars have the AT206 motor (green wire arm.) which is considerably "hotter" than the AT406 (brown wire arm) as seen on your Atlas Ferrari 158 Cheers Chris Walker PS a couple of shots of an Atlas Ferrari 158 done a few yeas ago.
  7. Hi Shayne,........I used a standard Slot-it screw in guide. and as far as the independent fronts.........I just solder a thin steel washer on to one end of an axle, the wheel on that side obviously does not need a set screw,....the other wheel is tightened to the axle. Cheers Chris Walker Here is an axle with the steel washer soldered on (the left side) ,.........not sure why I have a pic. of this axle with Crowns on it ???.......aahhh, ..just remembered, I was showing someone how much a Slot-it Crown could be taken down to fit in tight spaces
  8. Slow progress but finally done.................the chassis has been built to the new owners' club rules, so,.......a new guide, a 25K FC-130, drill blank axles, independently rotating front wheels, Sonic pinion, Slot-it Crown, and both the chassis and body dampened with silicone/urethane washers. Stock font tyres NSR Ultra rears, all glued/trued/treated. No weight as of yet,......the new owner can fiddle, depending on the needs of his club's various tracks. Cheers Chris Walker PS details on the changes to the body, decals, paint etc. are in my other "Rosberg" NSR McLaren thread.
  9. Hi Shane,.........a few answers. 1/ I wish I had a "vent" machine, but, the vents were done by hand,...and if I did not like the guy who it is going to , I would not have done them......a pain !! I traced the vents on to the bare shell with a sharpie/ruler, and then used a series of small drill bits to drill a series of holes which were then joined with a scalpel, and cleaned with files and sandpaper,.......did I mention, that they were a pain ???,......worth it though 2/ The Helmet is one of the "Interlagos" Miniatures that I have previously mentioned..........they do a ton of different drivers, and in person they look really good, and make any car !! The Macro I use does point out a few flaws, but, to the naked eye they are very very good...........may be a bit pricey for some. 3/ This car will be run in a club NSR F1 series, so , a custom chassis is a no go..........I will be using a "hard" NSR chassis plate with a few bits added, and as the tracks are all wood, the honking great FK180, will be replaced with an equally potent (and 10gm+ lighter) FC-130. Cheers Chris Walker
  10. Hello all,....I have been asked to do a "Rosberg" edition of the McLaren MP4/2C that he ran in practice for the 1986 Portuguese GP.......this was the only appearance of this car in the Marlboro "Light" colours. As it is for his club NSR F1 series, I have obviously used one of the NSR white kits. I did want it to look a touch closer to the actual car, so a few simple body mods have been made.......the sidepods have had the holes for the top mounted intakes filled, the side vents have been closed in, vents cut into the top rear of the sidepods, and the wing has been lowered approx. 1/8th. The rear wing has to be painted/decaled, some more suitable wing mirrors need to be made, detail bits to be sorted, and , the whole thing clearcoated. Still lots to be done.................. I thought that the interior was more or less done,........until I look at the close up Macro lens shots ..............right glove, hole in left shoulder, and a bit of helmet clean up need to be done,.....but, without the evil Macro lens highlighting these mistakes, it actually looks quite nice . I did add some gauges to the dash, but, they can not be seen from this angle. I will post updates when done ......both the body, and the chassis build. Cheers Chris Walker
  11. Precisely !!!,..........this complete assembly (motor/axle, gears/wheels )can rotate torsionally, as a complete unit,.... as a motor pod can do in its chassis plate......this torsional rotation of the whole assembly allows the outside tyre to load and compress progressively, improving grip and handling. You do not want any movement in the triangle formed by the motor shaft (pinion), and the rear axle/axle uprights. Cheers Chris Walker
  12. He certainly is Den, but,...it is considerably less stiff than the Scaleauto RT3 "red" pods.........far less critical on plastic, but, very noticeable on wood. Cheers Chris Walker
  13. Pod movement and torsional flex in the chassis plate are the elements that provide "suspension",......there should be absolutely no movement of the axle in relationship to the motor shaft/pinion. Many motor pods (Slot-it included) are quite flimsy, and do allow some independent "twist" of the axle uprights...........Slot-it themselves introduced a "wire" brace for the rear of their inline motor pods, and while the intent was good, the design, and effectiviness,...not so much!! Chris Walker
  14. A couple of answers to a couple of questions............ 1/ The paint colour on the M6 is Tamiya TS 58 "Light Pearl Blue".........shot right out of the can. 2/ The triangle formed by pinion (motor shaft), and the rear axle bushings should be as stiff as possible, in any motor configuration (inline,sidewinder.anglewinder)..........flex in this area causes, axle binding, gear mesh issues, and, axle hop,........none of which are highly recommended for quick lap times nor longevity. The stiffness in this area becomes more important with,...stronger motors, grippier tyres, fast/flowing tracks (anything that generates more load/twisting force on the rear of the car. 3/ While improving the rigidity of the rear end "triangle" is absolutely worthwhile, it is far less critical on plastic tracks, where the relative lack of grip, and the bumpy nature of the track (the rear tyres are likely off the track as much as on, when running on plastic), lessens its effectiveness. 4/ The Scaleauto RT3 "RED" motor pods are the stiffest pods currently on the market, and need no modifications 5/ Keith, I do not always disagree with you Cheers Chris Walker
  15. Hi Rosco, The axle brace is actually the "U" shaped brace across the rear of the pod, and ,as mentioned in my prior post, it ties the axle uprights together, eliminating independent flexing of the uprights/bushings. which for a variety of reasons, is not all that good. Motor bracket bracing was seen starting in the mid 60's with most of the top pro racers using,..gussets, brass sheet.wire etc. to stop flexing of the motor bracket, and anything one can do to improve the stiffness of the current crop of flimsy plastic motor pods is a very good idea. More than a dozen years ago Sloting Plus came out with an axle tube that had bushings installed in the tube, and they worked wonders, I bought a bunch, and use them in any motor pod I can. A couple of shots of the brace made for the TSlot motor pod...........a piece of .055 wire bent to fit snuggly into the chassis, and secured with Locktite 380. A SlotingPlus axle tube installed into an NSR pod.......it works wonders And a Eurosport chassis...soldered spring steel, with a wire brace tying both axle uprights together. And a recent build of a very early 70's style chassis with an axle tube.............independent flexing of the rear uprights, has always been a bad thing Cheers Chris Walker
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