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Chrisguyw

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Chrisguyw last won the day on January 2

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About Chrisguyw

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1. Chrisguyw

    Motor brackets

    Hi Den, when I said drilling holes, I meant on the bulkhead of the pod, not, the motor.......my mistake, I should have been more clear.........and I do not recommend drilling/tapping the sealed motors commonly used in 1/32 "plastic" racing, as during the process, small metal bits/filings can get caught in the can and bugger things up. And you are correct, the 26D is a Champion can with Arcos' (freshly zapped) and shims !!.......it has also had the motor shaft replaced with a drill blank shaft, is has been rewound/dynamically balanced, a larger diameter comm installed and trued, and reworked brush hood and barrels to accept 36D sized "goldust" motor brushes.....heat sinks and piano wire brush springs finish it up ..............goes well Cheers Chris Walker
  2. Chrisguyw

    Motor brackets

    You are correct Den,..if motors screws are used (on the can end and on the rear bulkhead of the pod).....adapters are absolutely not required. If the particular pod does not have screw holes, they can easily be drilled, or the motor can be glued in with ShoeGoo/E6000 etc, with zero fear of failure, regardless if you are situating the motor in a can end or endbell drive configuration. Thousands of motors have been attached to motor brackets with screws only over the last 50+ years,......and many many racers currently employ this method. Cheers Chris Walker All of the following pics. are of cars that went through rather long proxies (10+ rounds) with absolutely no issues. An FC-130 secured via motor screws only,...in a "longcan" pod And another....... A FC-130 in a "longcan" anglewinder pod........motor screws,....no adapter A heavily reworked (very fast/lots of torque) 26D motor in a Vintage Champion chassis......motor screws only, and, on the endbell end An FC-130,.........this one just glued in with E6000/ShoeGoo stuff. If you have an overwhelming desire to purchase/use a motor adapter, be my guest, but, they are totally unnecessary !!
  3. Hi Rosco, I gather you have not seen/worked with many vintage cars .............the front axle is threaded (5/40) and the wheels (also threaded) screw on and are "locked" against the separate nuts on the axle. Threaded axles were the norm on most slotcars up until 66/67, and some manufacturers hung on longer than that. This particular set of wheels (Russkit LolaT70) has threaded fronts but, set (grub) screw rears. The Nylon guide and set screw retaining collar are original AMT kit pieces, and are fairly typical for this time period .....and other than taking a bit longer to change braid, they work just as well as the new ones. While I would like to take credit for the motor bracket, it is as well a standard AMT bracket that came with all their 1/24 kits. Cheers Chris Walker
  4. The finished chassis....... This is an AMT chassis from 1966,......a few wire braces were added, a front axle tube (these chassis were prone to bending in a crash), lead wire tubes, and a few other bits...along with a much modified AMT 36D motor. Cheers Chris Walker
  5. Progress has been slow to say the least, but, the body is finished...... This is an AMT 1/24 Lola T70 from 1966,.....the kit was somewhat incomplete, so i did make/replace a few bits (apologies to the purists),..but,..I did invariably modify my cars as a kid, so, I can live with it The chassis is not done yet, and I will post a shot in a couple of days when completed. Cheers,..and Happy New Year Chris Walker The colour is Tamiya "Champagne" gold, and although this is a fantasy livery, it does look like it could belong on a 65/66 USRRC/CanAm Lola. The gauges do look quite realistic, despite my crummy photo. I have made a small aluminum rear lip spoiler......debating on whether to stick it on. The wheels are not original,.....they are Russkit Lola T70 1 piece cast aluminum......gorgeous !! And the yet unfinished AMT chassis,.....a few wire braces, a brass front axle tube, and a much modified AMT 36D motor.
  6. Hi Terry, torsional flex in a chassis is a good thing, as it lets the chassis load progressively in a corner, and you will find all "high end" scratchbuilt chassis incorporating it. It is equally important to engineer in the correct amount of flex, and as a general rule of thumb,.....the quicker the motor, the stickier the tires, the faster the track, the stiffer the chassis...With the opposite being true of course. The FF050 motored F1 cars with their skinny tires, low powered motors, and, racing on club tracks can be quite "soft" indeed, and to be honest your 1.2mm torsion bars are massively thick/stiff. I find that most of the scratchbuilt "Flexi board" chassis that I have seen in either proxies, club racing, or, brought into the shop, have been far too stiff. In similarly motored chassis, I have never used anything thicker than.032 (.8mm) and this was with very long bars.....most typically I use bars between .025 and .030, depending on their length. Cheers Chris Walker A couple of shots of some F1 chassis using "thin" torsion bars...............these have all won the proxies they ran in.
  7. Well done......It would appear from the picture that you have set the vertical centerline of the bushing placement above the motor shaft centerline ???..........what is the "offset" measurement ??,.....and, did you incorporate holes in the bulkhead for motor screws !! Cheers Chris Walker
  8. Hi Den, The SCX "Pro" pod only fits the SCX "Pro" cars, of which there were only a few....... 2 COT Nascars (Ford and Chevy) an Audi R8 , a Porsche 911 GT3, and a 4 wheel drive Citroen Xsara rally car. These cars were not sold in sets, and came in kit form in a Box, clearly marked "Pro".......not your run of the mill SCX !! I have both the Audi and the 911 (sorry not a Nascar fan), and with some sorting, they are more than potent cars,....no comparison to any other SCX. If you can find one, I would certainly recommend. The motor pod will accept any can drive FC130, FK180., or Flat6 , using 2mm motor screws (you will obviously need to use the top holes on the Flat 6 can due to its lower profile) ... The bracket is rigid enough that adapters are completely unnecessary,....2mm motor screws and you are good to go. Cheers Chris Walker
  9. Hi Shayne,....all the "Pro" motor pods are the same................why are you trying to print one ??......can't find originals/spares ??, trying to improve on it ??, and, what would you do to improve it ?? It is quite a good pod as is.....a stiff back end,.. it has motor screw holes in the bracket, and it will accept either spherical or single flanged bushings. Just curious...... Cheers Chris Walker
  10. Fairly even,..........but as each driver must run a heat in each lane, it all works out in the end Cheers Chris Walker
  11. Hi Mark, Different tracks for different folks..........there are lots of folks who drop by with their kids, and want to use the cars they got for Xmas/Birthdays etc., and a track that works with their magnet cars is of benefit to them........as well , if one does sell plastic tracks, having a working example in store is not a bad idea. While it is certainly not a wood track in terms of pure performance, built and powered well (which it is) it is not a bad surface at all, and plastic is widely used in 1/32 and 1/24 racing in Europe and elsewhere. All round, it is certainly better than the other plastic alternatives. As far as a wood track, there is one of those as well, it will be a spray glue track, for the metal chassis type cars,..........it was built by, Steve Olgilvie (builder of hundreds of commercial tracks), and while Ernie has many skills, he has never built a wood track Excuse the bad pictures, but this is progress (slow) to date. Cheers Chris Walker The Policar track needs a few more border bits, and a good clean, but, is essentially done. The Ogilvie wood track, has been painted (epoxy paint) and is currently being taped/braided.
  12. Hello Rob,........You could file it, but, it will take a while ............I use a dremel/cut off disc to take off most of the material, and then clean it up with a file. The cut off disc will cut the tube quickly and easily. Take a bit at a time, you only need to take enough so that the face of the axle (closest to the motor can) is just proud of the tube. Use a file to just score the inside edges of the pod bushing holes, and glue the tube in..............the use of this tube is a very worthwhile modification on any pod where it will fit (sidewinder/anglewinder). Hope this helps Cheers Chris Walker Another example.......this one was done years ago to an older Ninco (no pod ) chassis. I did rebuild the motor box to add rear end stiffness, and added some adjustable front axle blocks. It was one of my quickest/best handling cars......it has been given to a new owner, and is still winning club events. In this case, the angle of the motor did not require any mods. to the axle tube.
  13. Hi Mark, I understand and appreciate your concerns/issues with MRSlotcar, and, I am only forwarding this post from a "what is possible" design perspective. The standard MRSlotcar FF050 sidewinder pod utilizes a 5.5mm pinion, with a 15.5mm Spur, and has plenty of motor/axle clearance, as well as ample room (clearance and pod upright durability) for standard double flanged snap in bushings. For higher RPM FF050 motors (that favour a higher numeric gear ratio), I do regularly use a 4.5mm pinion, with a 16.5mm Spur, again, with no clearance issues. This is a pic. of a 30K Ff050 installed into the MRSlotcar pod, using a 4.5mm pinion, and a 16.5mm Spur.........plenty of clearance. I did slightly reduce the OD of the busing flanges, but there is sufficient clearance even if this was not done. The pod Paul has designed is just fine, (it looks good) , and , will no doubt work well, but, if a little more bushing flange clearance is needed, he could reduce the width of the inside of the rear upright support tabs he has designed into this pod, and add this "meat"to the outside of the rear uprights. (You will notice in the above pic. that the inside edges of the bushing flanges are just outside the can edges) Again, I am in no way trying to interfere/denegrate......just trying to provide some info on what can be done to engineer around a "fit" issue. Cheers Chris Walker PS As I mentioned in a previous post, in a recent proxy that allowed either a stock Scaley FC130, or, a Scaley FF050, the top 3 cars were all 050 powered. (all tracks were typical twisty wood club tracks)
  14. Hi Mark, As 5mm pinions are far from common, and as most folks will not turn down 18mm spurs to 17.5, (not really recommended) , it would seem that the pod with the reduced spacing will be considerably less useful (and somewhat more confusing) for most folks.The pod with the 5.5mm pinion/18mm spur spacing will allow (with good mesh) 5.5mm pinions of 8/9/10T and 18mm Spurs with between 31 to 36T. This would seem to be the simple route as both 5.5mm pinions and 18mm spurs are basically universally available, and understood by most. As an option to the standard spacing (5.5mm/18mm) Motor/axle spacing to accommodate a 5.5mm pinion and a 16.5mm spur, would be, to my mind, a much better second option, but, I do appreciate your comments on your desire to stock 16.5mm spurs Cheers Chris Walker
  15. Hi Folks, As a kid, I was never a big fan of the Strombecker cars, largely because of their relative lack of performance (vs. the stuff I was running/building) but, they did make some very nice and accurate molds, and, with a little work, they can be made into some very very nice cars. So, a few decades later, I have become a bit of a fan, and have found and restored quite a few. All of the cars below run on either the Strombecker 2 piece brass "Competition" chassis, or on brass/piano wire chassis that I have built for them.......a couple of the scratchbuilt cars are more than a match for all but the best current plastic cars. Cheers Chris Walker PS some may have seen these on another forum,......so,......just look away McKee Mk 10......... Lotus 30........ Cheetah........... Another Cheetah............ Ferrari Dino............. Ford J car........... Lotus 19............. McLaren M1B........... Porsche RS60.......... Ferrari 265..........
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