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About mattas

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    Kart Driver

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  1. I'm pretty sure Phil and others have more experience than me but it seems to be a matter of finding a sweet spot for the car/track and leaving but maybe making a slight adjustment to increase speed once tires get warmer and find a rhythm. i dont think it's something you adjust over the course of a lap continuously....I guess some people might adjust the brakes if the track has enough size to allow time to....it's all new to me but the cars are smoother and quicker and has a lot more driver control over the original controller, but personally I've never used any other controllers to know any different.
  2. That's the one. I remember my dad mentioning there was one there at the oddsfellows hall near the pub, I'm a product of the 70s and no such place existed in my time. Pretty amazing to think something like that was staged in Wynyard. A friend of the family had an old track with cox? style cars we used to play with as kids but the bodies had a few broken corners and was a bit dilapidated.
  3. Cool mate thanks for the clarification, I haven't had a chance to try the womp, still has S16D in it and spongies,, maybe more of a sentimental thing, I reckon you're right in that would be harder to drive on the smaller home tracks and consequently slower times. I only have 2 "vintage" angle winder ninco's with nc5 motors and 20 year old rubber lol am waiting on a NSR GT40 in mail, can't wait to see the difference. The nincos are fun go harder than any scaley or scx cars my friends have and not knowing none the wiser I'm accustomed to and enjoy the ninco hop lol maybe I'm in for a rude awakening I have a 2nd womp I don't know what motor it is but it revs noticeably faster than the parma super 16D. I know someone interested in a oval sprint car track or I could squeeze a 1/32 scale quarter mile somewhere lol
  4. Awesome that's before my time Phil but I vaguely remember hearing about a track setup back then but cant personally recall where it was
  5. The Tip36 you're using is a 25 amp transistor. With a super 16D (just testing) and no load the Tip32 gets very hot in about 10 seconds, for what I want to do the Tip34 at 10A will cover a standard 16D pretty easy.
  6. Cool mate I will have to see what can suss out...I used to race a winged womp with super 16D on the commercial track in Wynyard when I was in my teens
  7. awesome thats the idea...looks great, good fun. I have to build a 10x6 foot 3 lane track for my neighbor next but I'm busting to find time eventually to do a single lane 1/32 gymkhana track just to see if it can work
  8. I guess it's also unlikely to ever get two cars that run the same. Just a option if someone wanted to change the dynamics of a track in that way. Could make for an interesting layout having lanes that detoured from each other for a section, could make it more difficult to pace off each other for a section and make for some suspense to see if they make up or loose ground.... could be a good way of breaking up vehicle distances for approaching a crossover (not a fan of crossovers) or something. Sounds complicated but no harder to do on the CNC than parallel lanes which are a bit uniform and potentially a bit unnatural flowing maybe. I don't have much experience with slot cars so I don't really know the pros and cons or what people prefer. The lap times are very close. Cheers mate
  9. We can only hope so Grant I made the lanes not parallel in places on purpose to try give the effect of taking different race lines, and to make a little more inner lane drift room on corners then squeezes closer for the impression of door banging up the straights I'm tempted to make some track extensions that would be compatible with scaley etc... on the correct track setup you could make one lane break away from the other to make up difference in lane distance. Not sure the best way but something to this effect might work somewhere in evening things up on tracks without bridges etc...just a thought
  10. I routed the track myself Phil, I have a 4x8 foot CNC machine (slightly less cutting space) in the shed that I made...I mainly only do custom jobs so I can drive it ok, its one of my favorite toys. Self fabricated and operated so we know each other intimately Most places with there $100-200K CNC routers etc are a joke, they tend to finance expensive machines to do one job and have no idea how to do anything outside of the example patterns in the book that came with the machine. I went to a company to get some titanium cut (water jet cutter)and had to do the program for them because they couldn't even profile 2 numbers for a letter box, but I think it's a common story around here. Am located in Penguin Phil, apart from standard running costs, I don't really have any overhead expenses (finance/operators/office girl/company car/wifes lifestyle) so generally I can kill most peoples prices pretty easy.
  11. Hey Triggy, that was the plan and now that you mention it I double checked and am getting 2 inches difference in lane length, so thats a bit closer. I was a bit confused at that one too not sure where I went wrong before. There's maybe a couple of hundredths in the lane times and one lane is slightly easier to drive than the other but makes for a good drivers lane...but it's a fun drivers track i think more than complicated. Extending the straights an extra foot or two would be good
  12. Cool, nice work mate, I like the carbon fiber. maybe more current capacity...I will eventually go with a tip34 10A i think I ran out of 47R and used 56R for the last 10 or so keen to try all 47R when I get more resistors....but instantly improved lap times straight off the bat
  13. Works great, definitely a huge improvement on the original controller...lots more response and control Here's a good idea Phil, make a board with the DB25 and Dip socket to take banks of resistor chips.
  14. If you put the female DB25 on the controller opposite to what I did then is possible to put loose resistors into the holes on the DB25 for testing purposes
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