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MOPARGREG

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MOPARGREG last won the day on August 20

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About MOPARGREG

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    Mopar or No Car
  • Birthday 04/13/1976

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    Australia
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  1. Thanks guys. The tyres I believe are Shore 40 Smooth-on Vytaflex. Same front & back. I just paint some clear nail polish on the fronts & true them up. David if you are going to build a Petty car get the Powerslide decals from Mikes Decals. They are incredible quality.
  2. Hi guys, I think I last posted in 2013, but Ive still been building cars & so forth, so I thought I would share a few things Ive been up to. First up my Petty Enterprises Team in 1970, both #43 & #40 Plymouth Superbirds. I would have to say, Richard Petty's Superbird would have to be my all-time favourite race car of all time. So I really enjoyed building these. I worked on these on & off for a few years. Here's a few details on the cars Ive built. They are 1/25 scale. I started with Johan model kits. The bodies were fairly modified, wheel wells opened up & flared out, Monogram 1/24 nose cone smoothed out & various other things. Chassis are brass H&R Racing, Motor is H&R Hawk, Wheels are H&R front wheels all round, my own cast urethane tires, Wheel inserts by Modelhaus, Decals by Powerslide, Driver figures by Immense Miniatures. Paint is Tamiya Light Blue TS23 & Tamiya Clear TS13. Since taking these photos I have rebuilt the roll cage in the interior as the kit roll cage is hideous. Ive also rebuilt the exhaust pipes. Sorry I could be bothered retaking photos. Here's the Petty Team - Pete Hamilton's #40 Richard Petty's #43 Thanks for Looking, Greg
  3. Thanks for the comments guys. The Javelins Pioneer are planning to release is the later body shape & very different to the 1970 Javelins I built. Pioneer are planning the 1971 or 72 Javelins.
  4. Thanks Mobbz, They were a challenge. I just realised, should of mentioned the rollbar fell out of the #6 just before taking the pics, so it looks a bit strange. Its all fixed & reglued now
  5. Hi everyone, I have not been around much lately but Ive still been building cars. Some of these I built maybe 12months ago but I dont believe I have shown them here. If I have my apologises, I searched & didnt find anything. This is the 1970 Javelin Trans-am team. I started with 2 rough resin bodies, these are 1/25 scale. Chassis is H&R with 18k H&R Hawk motors, H&R front wheels allround & my own cast tyres. Paint is Tamiya. First up #6 Donahue - Heres #9 Revson & the 1970 Team together Ive got some other cars to show later on, plus I have started an American Graffiti inspired track which I have just started scenery on. Thanks for looking Greg
  6. Embs check this site - http://www.peoplescale.com I dont know the prices on some of these figures but some sure are nice. They have all scales Have a look at this page, I know they are to big for your purposes but they are amasing - http://www.peoplescale.com/D-3-1-4-TALL-825-cm-1225-LARGE-G-SCALE_c231.htm
  7. Thanks for posting the link to the American Graffiti trailer Slotsnz. You seriously dont want to know how many times Ive watched that movie. Sad really Thanks for the comments. I hope to start routing in the next few weeks. Dont expect the track to be finished anytime soon as some of the scenery details I have planned will take quite a while to make. The drive-in diner is going to take some planning on construction as that is the main focus of the track. I have not made it easy on myself as I have the building designed on computer & half of the building is round. Ill have to check out the motorhead figures, thanks Embs. I dont have any of those.
  8. Thanks for all the great comments. The 60s era of Nascar would have to be my favourite. Yes Phil it is a shame about no Dodge for 2013. I have to say I did see it coming when Petty left for Ford a few years ago. Im hoping they can pull something together for 2014, not holding my breath though, Wayfast heres a photo of my 72 Dodge with the same H&R chassis setup. Only the 72 Dodge has wider tires. Its amasing how far cars came in 10 years from 1962 to 1972 Dodge above.
  9. Hi everyone, Im going to start by saying, go into this track with a open mind. Its not your standard racetrack & I know that. I dont do any competitive racing just fun running with some friends & family. So I wanted something fun & lighthearted. Diorama is the key to this track. Hit the track & go cruizin! I have started work on a new routed track. Some back ground first. I really like the 50's - 60's era. The cars, the architecture, the lifestyle. For a long time now, over a few years I have wanted to build a diorama based around the movie American Graffiti & the TV show Happy Days. I was originally going to wait to build this track until I extend my garage out the back & build the track in there. But it is going to be a few years before that will happen. Since moving into out new house at the end of last year I had a space that was unused in the far corner of our family room. So the decision was made to build the American Graffiti track in this space. Probably the best part of the track is its a whole family effort. My wife will be coming up with the design for alot of the buildings & signage around the track. The track is much smaller than I wanted but when we eventually extend the garage we will maybe move this track to the garage & I can extend it then. Sure I could of easily made this track much larger in our family room but I didnt want it to look massive in the room. The size of the track will be 330mm long, 1200mm at each end & 1800mm in the middle. So the concept is a working diorama in 1/25 scale firstly & formost & a race track second. It will be a AC2 car track for 4 cars. I am looking into digital but I dont like the idea of buying chips for cars or swapping them all the time. Basically the extra cost of the chips. Least with Ac2car the diodes are only 50cents each. The track is based around a block downtown in US in the late 50's early 60's. Lets call it 1962 as there will be no cars older than 1962 on the track. Just think, drive-in diners, carhops, drag racing, cruizin, John Milner Oh & the Fonz! etc. Basically depending on which lane you choose on the track it will take you to a different part of the track. I am hoping when finished both ways will be fairly equal in length but if it isnt, its not that important. Ok heres the design. Its basic but you start to loose the realism factor by adding in more track. So I kept it simple, remembering I plan to extend in a few years. Basically adding in another block. When the extension happens the back straight will be come a drag strip. Im going to start by saying, go into this track with a open mind. Its not your standard racetrack & I know that. I dont do any competitive racing just fun running with some friends & family. So I wanted something fun & lighthearted. Diorama is the key to this track. Hit the track & go cruizin! Or this design with the lane changes in a different section The will be building ficades all around the outside of the track, sidewalks with hydrants, telephones etc. Working street lighting & traffic signals throughout the whole track. I decided to hold of posting anything until I had something to show. I have finished the track tables. I have been working on it on & off for the past few months. I kind of made it up as I went. I used some non-structural pine as the basic frame & everything else is MDF. The sides, doors etc all MDF. The track is part of my family room so I wanted the track to look good & the cabinets to suit the era of the track I am trying to capture. So I came up with this. The doors are made from scratch. I used some old meat safe mesh as inserts on the doors. I sourced some old original new old stock 50's hinges & door handles. Inside the cabinet is all lined so there is plenty of storage under there. I have used some industrial wheels so I can move it around if needed. I forgot to mention this breaks down into 3 different sections incase I ever need to move it. So next up routing. Ill keep you up to date as I progress. Any feedback on the design of the track will be excellent. I would love to hear your thoughts. Also if you have any pics of downtown US from the 50's 60's would be great. Oh BTW, there Im in no rush to finish this as I dont want to rush it. Thanks for looking.
  10. Hi everyone, I thought I would share a few pics of a car Ive been working on. Ive wanted to build this car for a long time now. Its close to being finished. Its Richard Petty's #43 1962 Plymouth in 1/25 scale. This was a great car to build & almost fell together until the end. I had some major issues mounting the chassis to the bottom of the full interior tub. Long story but after 5 hours I worked it out, trying a few different things. The body is a Resin body from MCW & is a fantastic casting. Chassis is H&R, Hawk motor, H&R front wheels all round with my urethane tires. Paint is Tamiya TS23 with semigloss clear to protect the decals. I designed the artwork for the decals. To finish it off I need to solder on the exhausts on the chassis(I have run out of brass tube) & then paint the chassis black. Also I want to adjust the way the cars sits. I want to raise the back up a little as its sits a little low at the back. All my issues mounting the chassis I decided to leave it a few days before playing with it again. Oh & also attach some hood pins. Heres 'The King' at full speed Heres the pics Thanks for looking
  11. What did the prepsol do to the Ninco crystal base? Prepsol is just a wax & grease remover so suprised it did anything to the plastic. In saying that Im no expert. Oh & Ive been told people use oven cleaner to prep there bodies. I think Once off oven cleaner or something like that. Ive never tried it, oven cleaner is nasty stuff so Ive never been game on that one.
  12. I just quickly read the thread. Yes as Kai & Phil mentioned I had problems with a particular resin shell. The paint actually dryed on the body but then the next day it was sticky in areas over the body. The sticky areas were almost like oil to touch. So this definately does not sound like the problem you are having as you have said the paint is dry & flakey. FYI I have had this problem on 2 bodies now, 1 from Phil (that he replaced thanks & 1 from another caster) You mention that the shell feels waxy. Im thinking there is no problem with the resin but they have used a mold release during casting. I really do think the wash in the water did not remove the release agent. I have alot of different resin bodies by alot of different casters now, most US based. All of them say to soak the bodies for 24-48 hours in Westleys Whitewall tire bleach or purple power or castol super clean none of which are available here in Oz. There are other recommendations as well. I was recommended to use Prepsol or prepwash & I have started using that although Im not game to leave it soak in the suff for a few days. I give it a good wipe with a wet rag of prepwash & go over the car a few times. Then I soak it in warm water with some dishwashing liquid. Seems to work well. In saying that none of them feel waxy to begin with. I used to just wash in warm water with dishwashing liquid but have added the extra step with prepwash as a just in case. These are just my thoughts & what works for me. So if it does not fix your problems Im sorry. Oh & Ive painted a a few different coloured parts & bodies & never had a problem. So I dont think the colour is the issue. Good luck with it. It may be a matter of throwing it in the junk pile for a rainy day & going back to it in the furture. I have a couple of those, Ill get to them one day.
  13. Thanks for the links. I had seen part of it before but not the whole thing. Theres some great historic footage there. I seriously need to find someone with a Delorian Time Machine to send me back in time, to be able to sit of the side & watch those cars in the flesh. Theres another old movie I have been trying to find. Called 'The Hard Chargers'. Its a similar film but filmed a year later showing the Daytonas, superbids & torinos. Someone on another forum posted links to the whole movie but I cant find it now. Damn! If you ever come across that one let me know Some other old Nascar movies to look out for are - * Richard Petty Story * Petty Blue * Thunder in Carolina There are loads more
  14. Burglar check this thread here for chassis mounting. On that car I had to use some wall plugs on the back 2 screws but dont usually do that. Usually the back 2 screws are like the front, just a hole drilled in the bottom on the interior. You dont really notice the the screws in the interior. The back 2 are usually under the area that covers the motor, so you dont see those at all. The front 2, 1 usually goes under the drivers seat & the other is visible I suppose but I never really noticed it so it does not bother me. http://homeracingworld.yuku.com/reply/179654/FINISHED-Richard-Petty-43-1971-Plymouth-GTX-Buildup-Step--St#reply-179654
  15. Hi Burglar, I have a large stash of resin & plastic 1/24-25 steel wheels that I have collected over the years. So when building these cars I just raid my parts & use them as inserts. Those particular ones are resin copies from a MPC stock car kit I think. These are the best for the wing cars. The driver is a 1 piece full length driver from MJK. It comes with a choice of 2 heads, An open face helmet & a closed helmet. It comes cast with the open face. Amputation is needed if you want the closed face on the driver. I mount the chassis direct to the underside of the interior. 4 screws straight into the bottom of the interior. I think I covered this mounting on another car I built. Ill dig it up & post. Yes Torinos coming up eventually. I have all the Polar Lights Torino stock car kits here to make one day. To many projects not enough time. Best way is to just get in & start building. If you have any other questions ask away. Happy to help.
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