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Posts posted by rosco01

  1. Ok folk, report as promised.... we literally had a little "melt down" today.... resultant of yesterday's air brushing of 1K etch....

    When I went to block it down today - a lot of the putty underneath simply gave way...... it had dissolved...

    Fortunately, I was spared the front headlight area which I've been working pretty solid on for nearly two weeks..... phew!

    Ok - take note...... 1K etch - lesson for all here. 

    I have used SEM 1K etch for many years with absolutely no ill effect on plastic or putty.... until now.

    My suspicion is that at some point in time, I have errantly thinned this with lacquer thinner..... instead of meths. The very same brew was used three days ago with no ill effect - but I am convinced somehow there was some lacquer thinner in it - and it presented itself at the worst possible time..after all detailing has just about been finalised..... grrrrrr


    So - today - drying out and blocking back, more putty... more sanding, more putty and finally - all those delicate little lines around the windows and doors... painfully picking them out with a specially made scalpel blade and many small pieces of 800 grit wet/dry - using the very corner of each little piece to clean out the scribe lines.... I'm there again, but no 1K etch today.

    The bottle has been emptied - contents ditched, and I'm off to Branchline hobbies tomorrow for a fresh bottle..... 


    Not wanting to waste the day (as if)... I decided I go to the other end of the model and address the rear window surrounds - which I've never been happy with. They are too pronounced and sit very high on the model - so... more scraping, sanding and blocking down... filled with putty, and sanded down again.. then scribed and sanded out... happy with it now.





    Whilst I was back there - had another go at the tail-lights. I also wanted to bring out the fine lip around the outer edge of the spoiler... took a bit of doing, but I am a lot happier with the look of the rear now. When the decals go onto the coloured model - this lip may or may not be visible... but, I've got it now just in case... a large "Torana" decal goes over the rear spoiler.. and I think "XU-1" is also visible at far right end.... 




    Just a pic of the repair damage on the left side of the model - the right side is pretty much exactly the same.... 




    Having my hands tied without paint - I finally decided to attack the front headlights and grille.... drilling them out then cajoling away with a scalpel and finally using needle files to bring them to size.....  


    few pix.... by golly, this little car looks "hungry".

    One thing I have noticed all week, with working on the headlight surrounds - this model could be one of many. Very minor little rubs here and there brought many different cars to mind... tonight, I started looking at the front without grille as "ponyish"... maybe I've been working on this too long.... starting to joust at windmills... 










    And now, I'm guessing "someone" might be interested to see the brass grille I made fitted up.... I had a bit of a play with it, and it simply brought joy to my eyes...... well worth the effort and time put into it - but, I'm saving the pic for now.... I'll post this up tomorrow before I etch prime the repair areas again.


    Ok, back with more tomorrow.. we're getting there - back on schedule for colour by the end of this week.... then the fun begins..




  2. Don't be nervous about starting a thread, OS-62..... questions - if you want to know something, the only way you are going to get answers is to ask them... no such thing as a stupid one, not asking it is the stupid bit... 


    I too have a couple of Slot-It chassis - not sure why I bought them, one of them was more likely because the entire running chassis was cheaper than buying the bits ... so, anything left over was going to be a bonus... 


    Don't be afraid to have a go at scratch building a chassis out of brass and piano wire - it really isn't as hard or difficult as many believe it to be... making or purchasing a building board is the key to it.... once you can lay out the parts - it's only a matter of setting down to solder them together... and - you can have any chassis you want, no restriction by what is on the market or available through other models... like this little LJ - my chassis will be custom made for the body... as you will see in a short time.

    I'm a little more lucky than many, I can also make my own wheels.. to fit both the tyres I have chosen, and the great inserts which come with the Munter kit - they are perfect for the LJ build.

    It is going to pain me not to be able to use them on the LC XU-1... that car ran with steelies.. so, I'll have to do a search for 13" steelies with five studs... 


    Looking forward to your getting the kit, OS-62... don't expect it to be a quick build... unless that's all you want and simply want to get it on a track... 

    I prefer to think of myself as a modeler... more than a pilot, driver or any operative in the many hobbies I have.. I enjoy modeling, and take great joy and pride in the models I produce..


    Ok... back over to you.

    Will be back soon with tonight's report to the thread...... we have had a  "disaster"... full explanation and cause soon... lesson to be learned for those yet to suffer this issue...




  3. Very much looking forward to watching your build, OS-62...... will you start up your own thread?.. more than welcome to come on board in this one if you would prefer.... 


    As for the chrome - I'm going with this Molotow for now.... I do have the foil (bought for a 1/25th scale EK Holden kit), but haven't used it.

    From all accounts, the Molotow will bring satisfying results. I may yet order in the 30 ml refill and choose to mask up and airbrush instead of using the marker pen.... 

    I have learned that this stuff can't be messed with. It's a "one application" and leave for 24 to 48 hours to cure out. Apparently, it's almost impossible to mark or damage after it has fully set.... and it can't be top-coated.... apparently, doesn't need it - so, it won't be until the top coats have been applied to the model before I add chrome... 


    Waiting for paint to cure out at present... will let it sit for a day or so before blocking down..... might start work on putting the lathe back together today - the chassis is next, and I need wheels..... for the Escort/Cortina MJK tyres which will be a close match.


    Please keep us updated with your LJ when it arrives.. love to see some pix of the casting before you start work... 




    • Like 1

  4. Thanks Chris,

    your words bring back my lagging memory of a 1/24 Corvette I had as a 12 year old - it was a wreck, and I purchased it from a school colleague for the princely sum of $1.... the motor ran, but almost nothing else was any good....... and, of course - too large for the local kids' 1/32 Scalextric layouts... 


    I recall the threaded front axle now, and believe the rear one was likewise... 


    thanks for bringing this back to me... 


    All the same, you work is exceptional - and I very much hope to mimmick it in my chassis builds... sadly, to a lesser degree than your ability...




  5. That's my take on it, Vinno...... those headlights were throwing me for quite a while - nothing I could do with the body seemed to rectify the look..... until I realised it was them, and not the body.

    It's close - I may nudge it a bit more once the primer coats go on... but it will be just a tweak here and there. The rest of the body is more deserving of work than going much further with this area.

    I am hoping to have another etch coat over the putty today - and primer tomorrow.... still aiming for colour coats by the end of the week.... then we'll start on the chassis... pre-cursored by putting the lathe back together and making up new wheels for the revised tyres... 




  6. Great work, Chris - I particularly like the nylon guide with grub retaining screw, not to mention the bullet proof connections.... KISS principle, so simple - but so effective.


    Can you kindly tell me what the nut on the end of the front axle tube is for?.... 


    I do like your motor mount, slotted hole at the drive end and a simple retaining plate with screw - again, simple - but ever so practical.




  7. Couldn't live with those front guards... there simply wasn't enough hood over the lights.... so, stripped it back again and built them up more.

    I believe I'm getting pretty close now... there may yet be a tiny bit more to be gained in bringing them closer to proto - but I'm starting to struggle with finding just "where" to add or subtract.... without being under the mag-light... my eyechronometers are pretty happy with what they see... but, under the scope - all sorts of issues show up.... 

    End of the day - I'm not going to run it on the track or in a jewel case looking at it through a magnifying lens...... perhaps it's "time"


    Also, the etch coat showed up a lot more flaws in the rest of the body than I had expected... so - New Year's Day was spent entirely on the front, right side and rear of the model.... well, more to come tonight after dinner... left side...


    I have had a fiddle with the rear tail-lights.. sort of nearly got to where  want with these for now.. made a blunder with the size of one of them - fix that before we go back into the paint shop..


    Progress pix.... narrative above will explain all five successive pix...












    Back tomorrow with more...




    • Like 1

  8. Your usual amazing work, Chris...... I'm guessing the golf course is missing you of late..... 


    I chose the same "fantasy" colour scheme for a Slot-It GT40 a couple of years back. I happened on the scheme after purchasing some "Mothers" car wax..... gold with two white stripes looked really good on the can... so my undecorated Slot-It kit was "trialed".. I may yet use the livery again... 

    The gold I used was a 75-25 blend of both Tamiya "Titan gold" and "Titanium silver" (X-31 & X-32), the white was Tamiya  white (X-2) and I clear coated with Tamiya (X-22) thinned with lacquer thinners.








    The chassis was kit Slot-It, but I changed out the motor, gears and fitted the suspension kit.


    Your chassis work is to dream for, Chris..... and ditto the comments on those wheels - superb for the T-70..... 




  9. As promised - pix in khaki etch primer. We can now see where work is to be done.. the etch primer reveals some of the voids and areas which need further work. It's a bit hard to see this when the contrasting shades of putty, cast resin and previous sanded down primer draws attention away from detail or blemishes... 

    Primer will go on next, then we'll start work on correcting the flaws.... hopefully, by the end of next week - we'll be in a solid Radiant red colour - ready for decals.


    Pix.....Australian Army livery of the LJ XU-1...










    The benefit of metho based etch primer, along with it not being aggressive on putties... is that it dries very quickly -  a light coat can be primed in as little as 30 minutes after spraying...


    Ok.. back later with some more progress..




    • Like 2

  10. OS-62..... I bought a German product I am yet to try... saving it for this build.

    It's called "Liquid Chrome" and is made by Molotow. The one I bought has a 2 mm nib and there is a ball or something similar inside to agitate whatever is in there.

    From what I read, it's probably about as close to chrome as I am going to get without either constructing an electro-plating set up or rubbing chrome film on.

    I am hoping that this stuff works - I paid a hefty price for it... and will report here once I have reached that part of the build.


    The product is available in a number of differing nib sizes - I chose 2 mm, being somewhere mid-range between the bumper bars and the stainless trim around headlights, grille and such... 




    • Like 1

  11. Just about to reach another milestone in the build.... paint.

    I was never happy with the front of this model... the headlights are positioned too far forward and the surrounds are grossly over-sized and poorly shaped.... 

    I have spent over a week on this alone.. and still not 100% happy with my efforts. 

    Over that week, I have had the front of my LJ looking like so many different cars.. from a Cortina, HJ Kingswood and to a Hillman Hunter - there really isn't much difference in any of these models from the LJ... subtle little changes, but they make a huge difference for anyone who has intimate recall of said vehicles.


    I simply couldn't get the "hooded" look of the front of the guards over the headlights.. and it took a quite a few goes until I realised it was the position of the headlights themselves which continually put me into error... 


    I am pretty much resolved that this is probably as close as I will get - without spending another week or more to get some miniscule discrepancies out of the result... 

    I will now drill out and ream the headlights - having them set much further inside the surrounds - this will make a huge difference to the look of the model.


    Final pix before I took it out to the spray booth this evening and laid down a good number of 1K etch coats.... doing this, I find - prevent the Tamiya fine putty from being attacked by the following solvent based primer coats...  I use a model railway etch called "Steam Era Models - grey etch".. metho based, very fine pigment... no pix of it in etch, but they will come tomorrow.








    As previously stated - I picked out the detail in the rear tail-light area, and wasn't happy with the direction my scalpel was drawn... it resulted in ugly lines which were nowhere near straight... 

    Putty wasn't giving me the result I wanted, so I bit the bullet and drilled/filed out the tail-lights then made up some replacement lenses from styrene card... 

    the indicator lenses were salvageable and I'm pretty happy with the end result... by the time the etch and primer coats go on and are sanded down - it should come up pretty reasonable... 

    We can see here that the original huge rear number plate has been removed and just a small flat section has been provided - if you look at Brock's Bathurst car, you'll see that this is a pretty close match.







    I believe I'm getting close to what I want out of this model... I have made considerable changes to the front section, which was not originally planned.

    I am yet to cut and gouge out the cast in grille - and fit the brass replacement. I will do this after the brass one has been cleaned and coated in zinc chromate (which I still have a little left for these purposes).






    And finally, here is the replacement grille laying in front of the cast one.. I believe this will make a more lifelike model... 




    The model sits in karhi green tonight (anyone like to see an LJ XU-1 in drab matt army colour?).... maybe put up a pic tomorrow.. looks "weird"..


    Until next,







    • Like 1

  12. I have now ordered three new Badger airbrushes.... through Amazon.com...this way, you seem to dodge the terrible taxes and shipping fees.

    Strangely, they are going to arrive in reverse order to what was purchased... I have just been informed that the first one has now been shipped and not expected for delivery until early February... the last one I purchased is due to arrive 5th January... 


    I do appreciate that stock may not be readily on hand to ship through their international outlet.... but I also understand that when the orders were placed, the delivery dates were a lot earlier than now forecast... 


    As long as they get here - I'll be happy.... 




  13. It may be possible to clear coat over the floor sealant, Phil..... I have tried to seal Patto's decals with a number of different options now, and all of them have a reaction with either the decal or the ink.... so, I'll go with the recommended floor sealant... and maybe try to overcoat that with a lacquer clear coat.... which can be "worked".




  14. Ok folk,

    Wasn't happy with first grille - 0.42 mm brass is too thick.

    Not to mention, when I was doing my final file/sand - four of the verticals inside the grille fell out... I got them all back in, but it's a mongrel of a job to do... fiddly as all heck. 

    I think in my mind then, I was already working on revision 1 - and a better way of cutting the parts and assembling them..


    I found some 0.25 mm brass shim sheet and decided I'd have a go at cutting the 12 pieces needed out of that.

    This time, I decided that I'd fit the verticals in from the rear. The issue with doing so from the front is that the excess has to be sanded off - and any of these bars which did not get soldered properly to the horizontals will simply fall out when the main body is removed.... which I found out.


    So - some pix...

    Here is the 0.25 mm brass shim marked out through some engineer's "blue".



    I have used a jeweller's saw to slit the verticals. In future, should I ever do this again - I will be more precise with the slits. It was during assembly that I realised some of them weren't straight - and I had to fit them into a vice and re-slit them. All but two were rectified. As you will see in later pix, two of them simply refused to go in where needed, resulting in the upper horizontal not running parallel with the rest in two places. I am not going to disassemble this to correct it, and will have to live with it - the next one will be more accurate.




    We have cut out the 12 parts. You can see that I have left the excess on the front of the horizontals - this is for positioning into slits in a wooden jig I made... to get the rake of the grille correct.




    In this pic, we can see the horizontals fitted into the slits of the jig.... and the depth of the slits to set the rake...




    And here we have the assembled grill - complete with Holden badge. It was a bit tricky to make that little piece up. I ended up using a pair of surgical clamp pliers to hold it whilst I profiled the shape. It is angled back each side from centre and there is a slight bevel on all edges. Getting it to solder in place took considerable time, effort and patience - I don't know ho many times I re-positioned it, only to find it wasn't either centre, square on to the front of the model or set far enough back.. but, I got there... 




    And here we have the original and revision 1... I believe it well worth the effort to use the 1/4 mm shim sheet.... I'm pretty happy with the result, but disappointed in those two upper sections not being parallel to the other horizontals.... next time...




    To change ends of the model - I am re-working the rear... I have re-profiled the rear number plate and removed the front one altogether - as was the case with PB's Bathurst car.

    I will fill those unsightly gouges I put into the tail-lights somewhat with thinned down putty.. and straighten them up. This will leave them picked out, but not as deep. I am hoping to paint around the trim of these with as close a paint as I can get to chrome... 




    I have also started work on the front - it's not quite right.... mainly the height of the bonnet and guards at front... and also the headlight surround areas... I have filed and sanded these down and am struggling to get the exact profile using putty.. I'll get close, but I fear the casting has the surrounds set too far forward to get the slightly "hooded" look over the headlights ... I should get a lot closer than the casting... but don't believe I'll get exact to the proto-type.. and I really don't want to make up a new "face" to fit.... 

    I believe the grille and these little "adjustments" will bring the model pretty close to proto - but any Torana owner/enthusiast will more than likely pick my failures... 


    So, this model is about to go into its second year on my workbench... from experience, whether it's a locomotive or slot car - my scratch building seems to take me around three months of actual work... we haven't got near the chassis yet - my lathe still awaits attention to fit the replacement spindle bearings... maybe when I get colour onto the body - we'll go to the lathe next... although I have two locomotives on my bench awaiting attention as well.... 


    Don't retire, folk - you won't have time to spare.....




    • Like 2

  15. Ok, all together - about to start trimming and fitting into the body, once I gouge out the resin cast one..... 

    Bit fiddly, and a few issues with getting the fine point of the iron into tight spaces - but I got there.... I found that tinning each new piece then "sweating" it into place resulted from the easiest way of placing and setting it into the assembly... 

    It looks very much like a VB Commordore grille at present - but I believe it's much smaller than the VB.... 

    My components may be a little thick in scale size - but I believe the overall effect will be worth the effort... perhaps, it's just the shiny brass which makes it look so heavy - matt or satin black will more than likely give the appearance a reduction in size... 






    back later, hopefully with an installed pic or two......




    • Like 4
    • Upvote 1

  16. Ok, time for a break - starting to believe that GM would not have spent as much time on the grille of the LJ than I have, but I'm getting there - took a lot of thinking out how to set it up and solder it..... 

    I cut out 9 verticals and slotted them for the three horizontals. Spacings were 1.25 mm vertically for the horizontals and 2.25 mm for the verticals.

    I had three differing methods which were all failures in setting these up before I came up with making a wooden jig - slotting the three lines through them to hold the horizontals in place then sliding in the centre and outer two verticals..... setting them in place using balsa pins after drilling 0.8 mm holes in the jig.... 

    I had to set a slight backwards and downwards "rake" from the top horizontal to the bottom... I did this by cutting the jig slots deeper in the centre and even deeper in the lower horiontal.

    Once the three were soldered in place - the assembly is very rigid. I won't need to solder each joint for the remaining six inner ones - just a tack solder top and bottom to hold them to the assembly.

    The "plan" is to assemble it all together - then take to it with the Dremel ..... removing all excess - mainly the verticals, but also just the ends of the horizontals.

    I used 0.42 mm brass strip for all. The 0.62 mm was too thick, and I found the 0.25 too difficult to cut slots into.

    I used a jewellers saw for all cuts, dragging it backwards through the thin metal seemed to prevent warping as the brass deflected against my blows.


    Progress pix - all self explanatory








    In it's current form, it would not be difficult to do another of these for a VH Commodore - if anyone is scratch building one of those.


    Update pix on body... work continuing pix self explanatory, but pay attention to the revised door quarter vents and removal of the number plates.














    And here we are with paint colour - I applied Patto's suggested formula onto a pic in Photo-Shop and believed it to be too "pink"... 

    I intend to use Holts touch up aerosol paint, after decanting and bottling it... it is Holden "Radiant Red"..  I believe the LJ and L-34 Torana livery was a deeper and darker red than that used on the latter A9-X.... 

    Couple of work pix... first, messing around with Photo-shop and playing with CMYK values.

    Second pic - both paints applied with small brush to the roof..... on the right is Tamiya X-7 and the left -  intended radiant red...








    Ok, time to get back to the grille - I'd like to have it assembled by the end of today.... it's been a long and drawn out plan and process to replace the cast in grille of the model - there will be before and after pix... 




  17. 2 hours ago, Wobble said:

    No need to buy compressed air even without a compressor. A workmate picked up an old spare wheel that was passed its best for nicks and painted many model aircraft with that and a quick trip down to the local garage would replenish his air supply for a while.

    Yes Bram - as mentioned, I used a number of spare tyres inflated to 50 psi at the local garage. It works fine, but as the pressure drops in each tyre - the valve has to be adjusted minisculey to adjust pressure at the brush. I sprayed "40" sized r/c aircraft using that source.... using "hobby poxy" paint (two pack  epoxy mix- model version) which was very "heavy". I have no idea at what pressure I sprayed that at..... but it used "heaps" of air.

    It would also be possible to fit a regulator in the line to the airbrush if using the spare tyre method.... they can be picked up quite cheaply these days with 5 mm or 1/4" fittings.

    If you could roll a blasted huge tractor tyre into your room - you'd probably go all day on that - so, as a given - the larger the tyre/wheel - the greater supply of air you would have to play with...




  18. Hmmm.... you may be more fortunate than I if you are allowed or feel comfortable with airbrushing inside the house. The small compressors are noisy, but more modern ones seem to have addressed the noise issue to some extent. As for the paint - some of it is nasty, mainly the lacquers..... but Tamiya acrylic has "something" in it as well.... if you look at the bottle, it has an "infalmmable" warning on it. I have also found that it slightly attacks Patto's decals - so there is something in it which is not in other water based acrylic paints.

    I continue to suggest that if you go ahead with a small compressor, to purchase one with a tank and a cut-out/cut in governor...... of course, the larger the tank, the greater the period of "silence".... 

    I have recently built a spray booth - which could be used inside, when backed up to a slightly open window. It now has three extraction fans in it and four diffused LED lights.

    The fans run in series and I simply use a small AGM battery (7 Ah).... in series, they "extract" the booth, but do not draw in so much air flow as to compromise wet paint.

    Camaro - hmmm... I have two of the Pioneer Camaro's... did some tuning to them, they look great - but leave a bit to be desired as for being up there with the best of fast cars. I could easily upgrade the main parts - tyres, motor etc... but with these two, I am going to keep them as Jules supplied them.... along with the two Mustangs that I bought from Pioneer. Body and paint are really good - especially the metallic Mustangs.


    Ok... back over to you... I'm really jammed at present with this grille for the LJ - it is proving to be a very difficult part of the build - see how I go by the end of today... I'm hoping I don't have to revert to leaving the cast in grille as is.. too fiddly to drill and cajole out each of the little rectangles in the grille...




  19. Your friend would know an awful lot more about airbrushing and airbrushes than me, OS-62..... as for compressor, I'm spoiled - with a 14 cfm Peerless that I use for spray painting 1:1 scale vehicles.... it doesn't blink at what little the airbrush uses - one tank full of air lasts me all day.

    Aerosol cans are a waste of time and effort - a modest little piston compressor will outlive your needs... but, if you can - get one with a "tank" and a regulator/drier... which operates up to working pressure then cuts out...... you'll thank yourself many times over for the extra yards taken now.

    Is your airbrush an internal mix?... does it have a paint jar underneath? and does the trigger only open the air to the gun... ?

    You can do really good work with an airbrush that is an external mix - but internal mix will give you the ability to do finer work (the dots of paint are a lot smaller with internal).

    An airbrush with a paint cup at the top will allow you to use lower pressure - a great help when it comes to working up close with very little air pressure (10 - 12 lbs in most cases, down to 8 if you thin the paint right out).

    A single action airbrush (where the trigger only controls air) works fine - which is all I have used over the years.. but I'm now going to a dual action, where I can control both the air and the paint fan width with the one trigger.... 


    the sooner you get away from aerosol cans - the better. 

    For some time, I used a number of spare car tyres on wheels for my air supply - drove the local garage nuts with me coming up every now and then to pump up six or seven tyres - he never knew what I was up to.... a tyre lasted me some time. But the issue with doing it that way, was as the pressure in they tyre got lower - I'd have to adjust the valve to allow more air into the air line.... 

    I was given a home made compressor (from a Villiers 4 stroke motor - and a metal plate was fitted in place of the head. Into that, two fuel pump check valves were fitted in opposing directions.... that allowed the air from the motor to go though, but not come back. The supply then went into a small LPG gas bottle... with a relief valve at the bottom of it. Adjusting that relief valve controlled how much pressure was in the tank (bottle)... a 240v electric motor from a hard waste fridge powered the Villiers.. via pulleys and a fan belt.... tension of the belt taken up by sliding the Villiers along the chassis and tightening down four retaining bolts.

     I worked with that in modeling for a couple of years - then along came the Peerless... and my faithful little Villiers was sent off to another modeler.

    The only issue I had was burning out the check valves (Holden AC fuel pump0 and having to replace them a couple of times a year.... they were cheap, and readily available.

    The other issue was that it worked continuously.. which meant when i was airbrushing, I was making noise... 

    Aerosols are a quick fix - sadly, the air which comes out of them is cold - and you will learn soon that warming up paint before you spray it allows it to flow out better for a greater gloss or leveling of the finish.... not hot, but just "warm"..... 

    This is the issue I have with aerosol paint cans..... the propellant is just above freezing point.. and the paint applies cold.... if it is applied lightly - it can dry on the surface without flowing or leveling out.... I don't like aerosol - great for insect repellent and silicone lubricant etc. etc.... but not for painting.

    Ok... given you some more to think about... exciting stuff this - you will be more than happy with results once you start to learn to airbrush your models..




    • Like 1

  20. Hi again OS-62.... 

    You'll love airbrushing a model - you will obtain a far superior result than if using a paint brush.

    Firstly, yes - a clear coat over the decals once they have fully dried out is essential - at least 24 hours.

    I am in a learning curve with Patto's decals - they are a little different to what I have used in the past. These decals are ultra-thin and must be treated with more respect than the "kid" type we used to get in Airfix and the like boxes..... but, they are a most excellent decal - detail is brilliant. We'll get to the bit in my thread when I have colour coated it.. which will also come, so it is timely that you are following the thread - and I invite your own experience in this model as we continue.


    You must thin paint to airbrush it. Depending on which airbrush you have... can you kindly tell me, please.

    I have been using a wonderful single action/internal mix Badger 200 for some 35 or more years - it has been a very faithful servant, and like all my tools and equipment - it has been flowered with great care...... however, I have just purchased two new airbrushes - both Badger, but double action and gravity fed... one for "general" work, and one for very fine work... 


    I was sent a link to an excellent You Tube description of Badger airbrushes, it goes for 1 hour 32 min and only addresses airbrushes and their use... it would be well worth your time to watch this... it does not show any actual airbrushing, but will explain the differences and what is necessary to operate one very, very well..... link - 



    The ratio for thinning paint for an airbrush varies a bit - but if using an acrylic paint, most recommend a 50/50 mix.... which I find quite acceptable for my application.


    I am in discussion with Patto at present and am about to try something different which is his recommendation for the decals he supplies - floor polish.... "Future" brand, but it is not available in Oz.. but a suitable alternative is - from Bunnings etc.... for around $12 for the 1 litre bottle. 

    It is called "Long Life self-shining floor polish"...... it is a derivative of Future. If you look at the back of the bottle, it is made by Pascoe's - but unlike the previous version which I have used on the floor of our caravan - this one does not have "Pascoe's" on the front.... and is an "Improved" version... 

    Patto tells me to apply this unthinned - but of course, this depends on your airbrush.

    We'll get to this when I have applied the decals.

    What is important, is if you want a good finish - you will need to use a primer first.. then your colour coats. I have found with the resin body that Munter supplies, it is not necessry to apply a protective etch primer so that the harsh solvents of the Tamiya aerosol primer do not attack it.... but, I did anyway.... and used a 1K etch which is alcohol based, not tolulene or the like.

    If you want to follow my lead, and use the Holts touch up paint for what i believe to be an accurate colour - you should decant it into a jar, then bottle it.... and allow it to come to room temperature for a day or so...... paint from an aerosol is almost at freezing point (propellant)... and if you spray it too soon using an airbrush - you'll be disappointed with the results.

    I do this with Tamiya fine grey primer as well... decant that, and bottle it... allow it to come up to room temperature, then thin it before applying it to a model... 

    it is then a very good primer to work with and will sand back resulting in an almost perfect finish.... using 1200 or 1500 wet/dry..... then colour coat.


    Patto tells me that I can spray a coat of floor polish over the colour coat.... let that dry for 24 hours then apply the decals..... leave those for another 24 hours and then a final clear coat of floor polish.... this is what I now plan to do.


    I have applied some of Patto's other decals to my L-34 and also two A9-X's.. and used Tamiya acrylic clear coat, thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinners - there is something in Tamiya acrylic which is aggressive..... even though it is acrylic and should be safe - it's not..... and some of the Patto's decals became very slightly wrinkled - so, I won't be doing that again..... and will go ahead with what he suggests.... this floor polish.


    The decals for the LJ XU-1 are exacting, and will result in a wonderful model.. the fine pin-striping around the main panels will show through over the base coat of red - I am looking forward to getting to this point.... 


    We are still working on the grille and rear fuel filler section at present. I removed the molded filler cap and made up a brass and piano wire one.. it will look a lot better than the "outline" one cast into the model.... it will be applied after all painting has finished - which is good modeling practice for fine detail - but, I'll drill the hole first prior to painting.


    Ok... that should give you something to work on.... yes, airbrush the model, and yes - paint (not this floor polish) does need thinning.... starting with at least a 50/50 mix... and thinner if needed... you are not going to lay down your colour coat in one go... it's a process of building up the coats until you have solid coverage.. with "flash off" periods between coats..... unlike brushing by hand... where you simply lay down your paint from the jar and "lay off"... allowing it to flow out and self-level..... airbrushing is applied in thinner coats.. and as many of them as it takes to get solid cover... this will both extend and also expand your appreciation and experience in modeling, OS-62... 

    I'll send you a PM with my email address.... if you need more explanation or detail - it would be easier (and less annoying to the forum) if we banter on privately.... 

    I can then send you blow by blow pix as attachments for when you come to start work on your LJ.... 






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  21. Hi OS-62..... I intend to use cellulose sheet for the windows at this point in time - however, the kit comes supplied with window inserts, if I'm not happy with the result - I'll make up my own and flush fit them using "Canopy glue".... which I have found to be perfect in the r/c aeroplane world.


    Timely you should post - I'm about to pick up in this thread again. I have done a lot of work on the body since last posting. I believe I am getting close to colour coating now but am in the sordid business of fabricating a grille out of brass.... it's fiddly, but will give the model an awful lot more lifelike look.

    I have removed the door quarter vent windows and made replacements up out of brass... and moved them back to where they should be.

    I have also cut open the radiator intake below the bumper...... and removed those unsightly number plates altogether, making up a very thin flat section at the rear and none at the front.

    Patto has been in touch a number of times regarding his decals and paint. He sent me the formula (CMYK) for the red that he prints - but we have decided to go with the red deleted, and I will spray the body instead..... the decals will then "clear coat" over the body red.

    I put a bit of work into sourcing "the" red for this model - and as many would be aware, the early HDT LJ and L-34 Torana's had a deeper red than that which the A9-X livery came out in.

    I trialed some Tamiya X-7 and found it to be too "magenta".... 

    Using Photo-Shop, and taking some pix under a "natural daylight" artificial source - I have come up with the following, if anyone is interested.

    C 9, M 99, Y 100 and K 1........ this was obtained after decanting some Holt's "Holden Radiant Red".... allowing it to come to room temperature then spraying some over a light grey primer base...... I believe this is a very close colour for the earlier HDT Torana's..... but happy to be corrected.

    Amongst other things, if you want to improve the look of this model - remove the 1/4 vent windows and fit a thin brass rod further back - it should be located to follow the curve of the front window upper aperture line. The rear spoiler needs work too - it needs a deeper dish and the rear rake brought up more vertical... they would be the two major changes I would suggest... that rear spoiler really stuck in my throat until I fixed it.. the quarter vents weren't far behind.


    I'll put a post up shortly - with some pix of my latest bit of work.


    I am yet to start on the chassis - but believe I now have the tyres I want.... MJK, to fit a Cortina. I will make up my own wheels once I put my lathe back together with the replacement tapered roller bearings for the spindle.


    OK..... let me know if you need any further suggestions, OS-62..... always happy to help, advice might not always be the best available - but it is the best that I can offer.




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