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rosco01

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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Ok, all together - about to start trimming and fitting into the body, once I gouge out the resin cast one..... Bit fiddly, and a few issues with getting the fine point of the iron into tight spaces - but I got there.... I found that tinning each new piece then "sweating" it into place resulted from the easiest way of placing and setting it into the assembly... It looks very much like a VB Commordore grille at present - but I believe it's much smaller than the VB.... My components may be a little thick in scale size - but I believe the overall effect will be worth the effort... perhaps, it's just the shiny brass which makes it look so heavy - matt or satin black will more than likely give the appearance a reduction in size... Pix.. back later, hopefully with an installed pic or two...... frats, Rosco
  2. Sounds idyllic, OS-62... frats, Rosco
  3. Ok, time for a break - starting to believe that GM would not have spent as much time on the grille of the LJ than I have, but I'm getting there - took a lot of thinking out how to set it up and solder it..... I cut out 9 verticals and slotted them for the three horizontals. Spacings were 1.25 mm vertically for the horizontals and 2.25 mm for the verticals. I had three differing methods which were all failures in setting these up before I came up with making a wooden jig - slotting the three lines through them to hold the horizontals in place then sliding in the centre and outer two verticals..... setting them in place using balsa pins after drilling 0.8 mm holes in the jig.... I had to set a slight backwards and downwards "rake" from the top horizontal to the bottom... I did this by cutting the jig slots deeper in the centre and even deeper in the lower horiontal. Once the three were soldered in place - the assembly is very rigid. I won't need to solder each joint for the remaining six inner ones - just a tack solder top and bottom to hold them to the assembly. The "plan" is to assemble it all together - then take to it with the Dremel ..... removing all excess - mainly the verticals, but also just the ends of the horizontals. I used 0.42 mm brass strip for all. The 0.62 mm was too thick, and I found the 0.25 too difficult to cut slots into. I used a jewellers saw for all cuts, dragging it backwards through the thin metal seemed to prevent warping as the brass deflected against my blows. Progress pix - all self explanatory In it's current form, it would not be difficult to do another of these for a VH Commodore - if anyone is scratch building one of those. Update pix on body... work continuing pix self explanatory, but pay attention to the revised door quarter vents and removal of the number plates. And here we are with paint colour - I applied Patto's suggested formula onto a pic in Photo-Shop and believed it to be too "pink"... I intend to use Holts touch up aerosol paint, after decanting and bottling it... it is Holden "Radiant Red".. I believe the LJ and L-34 Torana livery was a deeper and darker red than that used on the latter A9-X.... Couple of work pix... first, messing around with Photo-shop and playing with CMYK values. Second pic - both paints applied with small brush to the roof..... on the right is Tamiya X-7 and the left - intended radiant red... Pix.. Ok, time to get back to the grille - I'd like to have it assembled by the end of today.... it's been a long and drawn out plan and process to replace the cast in grille of the model - there will be before and after pix... frats, Rosco
  4. Yes Bram - as mentioned, I used a number of spare tyres inflated to 50 psi at the local garage. It works fine, but as the pressure drops in each tyre - the valve has to be adjusted minisculey to adjust pressure at the brush. I sprayed "40" sized r/c aircraft using that source.... using "hobby poxy" paint (two pack epoxy mix- model version) which was very "heavy". I have no idea at what pressure I sprayed that at..... but it used "heaps" of air. It would also be possible to fit a regulator in the line to the airbrush if using the spare tyre method.... they can be picked up quite cheaply these days with 5 mm or 1/4" fittings. If you could roll a blasted huge tractor tyre into your room - you'd probably go all day on that - so, as a given - the larger the tyre/wheel - the greater supply of air you would have to play with... frats, Rosco
  5. Hmmm.... you may be more fortunate than I if you are allowed or feel comfortable with airbrushing inside the house. The small compressors are noisy, but more modern ones seem to have addressed the noise issue to some extent. As for the paint - some of it is nasty, mainly the lacquers..... but Tamiya acrylic has "something" in it as well.... if you look at the bottle, it has an "infalmmable" warning on it. I have also found that it slightly attacks Patto's decals - so there is something in it which is not in other water based acrylic paints. I continue to suggest that if you go ahead with a small compressor, to purchase one with a tank and a cut-out/cut in governor...... of course, the larger the tank, the greater the period of "silence".... I have recently built a spray booth - which could be used inside, when backed up to a slightly open window. It now has three extraction fans in it and four diffused LED lights. The fans run in series and I simply use a small AGM battery (7 Ah).... in series, they "extract" the booth, but do not draw in so much air flow as to compromise wet paint. Camaro - hmmm... I have two of the Pioneer Camaro's... did some tuning to them, they look great - but leave a bit to be desired as for being up there with the best of fast cars. I could easily upgrade the main parts - tyres, motor etc... but with these two, I am going to keep them as Jules supplied them.... along with the two Mustangs that I bought from Pioneer. Body and paint are really good - especially the metallic Mustangs. Ok... back over to you... I'm really jammed at present with this grille for the LJ - it is proving to be a very difficult part of the build - see how I go by the end of today... I'm hoping I don't have to revert to leaving the cast in grille as is.. too fiddly to drill and cajole out each of the little rectangles in the grille... frats, Rosco
  6. Your friend would know an awful lot more about airbrushing and airbrushes than me, OS-62..... as for compressor, I'm spoiled - with a 14 cfm Peerless that I use for spray painting 1:1 scale vehicles.... it doesn't blink at what little the airbrush uses - one tank full of air lasts me all day. Aerosol cans are a waste of time and effort - a modest little piston compressor will outlive your needs... but, if you can - get one with a "tank" and a regulator/drier... which operates up to working pressure then cuts out...... you'll thank yourself many times over for the extra yards taken now. Is your airbrush an internal mix?... does it have a paint jar underneath? and does the trigger only open the air to the gun... ? You can do really good work with an airbrush that is an external mix - but internal mix will give you the ability to do finer work (the dots of paint are a lot smaller with internal). An airbrush with a paint cup at the top will allow you to use lower pressure - a great help when it comes to working up close with very little air pressure (10 - 12 lbs in most cases, down to 8 if you thin the paint right out). A single action airbrush (where the trigger only controls air) works fine - which is all I have used over the years.. but I'm now going to a dual action, where I can control both the air and the paint fan width with the one trigger.... the sooner you get away from aerosol cans - the better. For some time, I used a number of spare car tyres on wheels for my air supply - drove the local garage nuts with me coming up every now and then to pump up six or seven tyres - he never knew what I was up to.... a tyre lasted me some time. But the issue with doing it that way, was as the pressure in they tyre got lower - I'd have to adjust the valve to allow more air into the air line.... I was given a home made compressor (from a Villiers 4 stroke motor - and a metal plate was fitted in place of the head. Into that, two fuel pump check valves were fitted in opposing directions.... that allowed the air from the motor to go though, but not come back. The supply then went into a small LPG gas bottle... with a relief valve at the bottom of it. Adjusting that relief valve controlled how much pressure was in the tank (bottle)... a 240v electric motor from a hard waste fridge powered the Villiers.. via pulleys and a fan belt.... tension of the belt taken up by sliding the Villiers along the chassis and tightening down four retaining bolts. I worked with that in modeling for a couple of years - then along came the Peerless... and my faithful little Villiers was sent off to another modeler. The only issue I had was burning out the check valves (Holden AC fuel pump0 and having to replace them a couple of times a year.... they were cheap, and readily available. The other issue was that it worked continuously.. which meant when i was airbrushing, I was making noise... Aerosols are a quick fix - sadly, the air which comes out of them is cold - and you will learn soon that warming up paint before you spray it allows it to flow out better for a greater gloss or leveling of the finish.... not hot, but just "warm"..... This is the issue I have with aerosol paint cans..... the propellant is just above freezing point.. and the paint applies cold.... if it is applied lightly - it can dry on the surface without flowing or leveling out.... I don't like aerosol - great for insect repellent and silicone lubricant etc. etc.... but not for painting. Ok... given you some more to think about... exciting stuff this - you will be more than happy with results once you start to learn to airbrush your models.. frats, Rosco
  7. Hi again OS-62.... You'll love airbrushing a model - you will obtain a far superior result than if using a paint brush. Firstly, yes - a clear coat over the decals once they have fully dried out is essential - at least 24 hours. I am in a learning curve with Patto's decals - they are a little different to what I have used in the past. These decals are ultra-thin and must be treated with more respect than the "kid" type we used to get in Airfix and the like boxes..... but, they are a most excellent decal - detail is brilliant. We'll get to the bit in my thread when I have colour coated it.. which will also come, so it is timely that you are following the thread - and I invite your own experience in this model as we continue. You must thin paint to airbrush it. Depending on which airbrush you have... can you kindly tell me, please. I have been using a wonderful single action/internal mix Badger 200 for some 35 or more years - it has been a very faithful servant, and like all my tools and equipment - it has been flowered with great care...... however, I have just purchased two new airbrushes - both Badger, but double action and gravity fed... one for "general" work, and one for very fine work... I was sent a link to an excellent You Tube description of Badger airbrushes, it goes for 1 hour 32 min and only addresses airbrushes and their use... it would be well worth your time to watch this... it does not show any actual airbrushing, but will explain the differences and what is necessary to operate one very, very well..... link - https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=introduction+to+airbrushing+with+Ken+Schlotfeldt&docid=608037953692897065&mid=C1CBAAD4AD6F2E10EB23C1CBAAD4AD6F2E10EB23&view=detail&FORM=VIRE The ratio for thinning paint for an airbrush varies a bit - but if using an acrylic paint, most recommend a 50/50 mix.... which I find quite acceptable for my application. I am in discussion with Patto at present and am about to try something different which is his recommendation for the decals he supplies - floor polish.... "Future" brand, but it is not available in Oz.. but a suitable alternative is - from Bunnings etc.... for around $12 for the 1 litre bottle. It is called "Long Life self-shining floor polish"...... it is a derivative of Future. If you look at the back of the bottle, it is made by Pascoe's - but unlike the previous version which I have used on the floor of our caravan - this one does not have "Pascoe's" on the front.... and is an "Improved" version... Patto tells me to apply this unthinned - but of course, this depends on your airbrush. We'll get to this when I have applied the decals. What is important, is if you want a good finish - you will need to use a primer first.. then your colour coats. I have found with the resin body that Munter supplies, it is not necessry to apply a protective etch primer so that the harsh solvents of the Tamiya aerosol primer do not attack it.... but, I did anyway.... and used a 1K etch which is alcohol based, not tolulene or the like. If you want to follow my lead, and use the Holts touch up paint for what i believe to be an accurate colour - you should decant it into a jar, then bottle it.... and allow it to come to room temperature for a day or so...... paint from an aerosol is almost at freezing point (propellant)... and if you spray it too soon using an airbrush - you'll be disappointed with the results. I do this with Tamiya fine grey primer as well... decant that, and bottle it... allow it to come up to room temperature, then thin it before applying it to a model... it is then a very good primer to work with and will sand back resulting in an almost perfect finish.... using 1200 or 1500 wet/dry..... then colour coat. Patto tells me that I can spray a coat of floor polish over the colour coat.... let that dry for 24 hours then apply the decals..... leave those for another 24 hours and then a final clear coat of floor polish.... this is what I now plan to do. I have applied some of Patto's other decals to my L-34 and also two A9-X's.. and used Tamiya acrylic clear coat, thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinners - there is something in Tamiya acrylic which is aggressive..... even though it is acrylic and should be safe - it's not..... and some of the Patto's decals became very slightly wrinkled - so, I won't be doing that again..... and will go ahead with what he suggests.... this floor polish. The decals for the LJ XU-1 are exacting, and will result in a wonderful model.. the fine pin-striping around the main panels will show through over the base coat of red - I am looking forward to getting to this point.... We are still working on the grille and rear fuel filler section at present. I removed the molded filler cap and made up a brass and piano wire one.. it will look a lot better than the "outline" one cast into the model.... it will be applied after all painting has finished - which is good modeling practice for fine detail - but, I'll drill the hole first prior to painting. Ok... that should give you something to work on.... yes, airbrush the model, and yes - paint (not this floor polish) does need thinning.... starting with at least a 50/50 mix... and thinner if needed... you are not going to lay down your colour coat in one go... it's a process of building up the coats until you have solid coverage.. with "flash off" periods between coats..... unlike brushing by hand... where you simply lay down your paint from the jar and "lay off"... allowing it to flow out and self-level..... airbrushing is applied in thinner coats.. and as many of them as it takes to get solid cover... this will both extend and also expand your appreciation and experience in modeling, OS-62... I'll send you a PM with my email address.... if you need more explanation or detail - it would be easier (and less annoying to the forum) if we banter on privately.... I can then send you blow by blow pix as attachments for when you come to start work on your LJ.... frats, Rosco
  8. Hi OS-62..... I intend to use cellulose sheet for the windows at this point in time - however, the kit comes supplied with window inserts, if I'm not happy with the result - I'll make up my own and flush fit them using "Canopy glue".... which I have found to be perfect in the r/c aeroplane world. Timely you should post - I'm about to pick up in this thread again. I have done a lot of work on the body since last posting. I believe I am getting close to colour coating now but am in the sordid business of fabricating a grille out of brass.... it's fiddly, but will give the model an awful lot more lifelike look. I have removed the door quarter vent windows and made replacements up out of brass... and moved them back to where they should be. I have also cut open the radiator intake below the bumper...... and removed those unsightly number plates altogether, making up a very thin flat section at the rear and none at the front. Patto has been in touch a number of times regarding his decals and paint. He sent me the formula (CMYK) for the red that he prints - but we have decided to go with the red deleted, and I will spray the body instead..... the decals will then "clear coat" over the body red. I put a bit of work into sourcing "the" red for this model - and as many would be aware, the early HDT LJ and L-34 Torana's had a deeper red than that which the A9-X livery came out in. I trialed some Tamiya X-7 and found it to be too "magenta".... Using Photo-Shop, and taking some pix under a "natural daylight" artificial source - I have come up with the following, if anyone is interested. C 9, M 99, Y 100 and K 1........ this was obtained after decanting some Holt's "Holden Radiant Red".... allowing it to come to room temperature then spraying some over a light grey primer base...... I believe this is a very close colour for the earlier HDT Torana's..... but happy to be corrected. Amongst other things, if you want to improve the look of this model - remove the 1/4 vent windows and fit a thin brass rod further back - it should be located to follow the curve of the front window upper aperture line. The rear spoiler needs work too - it needs a deeper dish and the rear rake brought up more vertical... they would be the two major changes I would suggest... that rear spoiler really stuck in my throat until I fixed it.. the quarter vents weren't far behind. I'll put a post up shortly - with some pix of my latest bit of work. I am yet to start on the chassis - but believe I now have the tyres I want.... MJK, to fit a Cortina. I will make up my own wheels once I put my lathe back together with the replacement tapered roller bearings for the spindle. OK..... let me know if you need any further suggestions, OS-62..... always happy to help, advice might not always be the best available - but it is the best that I can offer. frats, Rosco
  9. Thanks Dick. Posted reply on A9-X thread. frats, Rosco
  10. Thanks Dick, yes - using it with extreme care... in my spray booth box with fan...... if I can smell it when using it - I turn up the fan...... exhausts to outside. frats, Rosco
  11. Nice work, Mark.... too many people simply pretty much run cars OTB... with very little attention to tuning them. I do like your application of using rubber washers for body mount screws... must source some. Are you still running the Slot-It tyres?... I noted a significant difference when swapping them out for MJK's... as fitted to the half dozen or so GT40's that I have. Another thing that I found got just that little bit more out of it was to "re-learn" the plastic chassis - if it's not perfectly flat.... big job, but makes for a better model - probably equally in aesthetic but also to a lesser degree with performance.... Adjustable front axle position and pod, of course negates much of this - but to begin tuning with a flat and true chassis goes a long way to getting everything to line up square and in a parallel plane. Again - nice work... bet you can't wait for that motor to settle down - easy does it.... first hour or so is just so pivotal on how long it will stay at peak performance during its life... I have retaken the step to running in my motors in a demineralised water bath.... air drying and re-lubing.... only those motors which I can access them..... I have found that it beds in the commutator better, in my opinion... flushing away those early fragments which score and permanently mark the commutator... If I can access the commutator - I also use "naptha" to polish it.. but, it's dangerous stuff and very volatile... hurry up and slow down to do the job... frats, Rosco
  12. Thanks Alan - can you slip me in with the #6 please.... still don't know what I'll build - more than likely another T-53.... low detail version. frats, Rosco
  13. Hi folk, just attacked #2 A9-X bumper.... only thing I will touch on it - then it goes back into the box as a collector. I found a better way of getting the bumper off - but it's delicate work. It saves a lot of hacking, but great care has to be taken - and it has to be done very slowly. I used the finest engraving bit I have with the narrowest shaft... and went in from underneath - between the bumper and the indicator, there is enough room to work the engraver down until the bumper comes free.... It does not hack up the aperture of the model as badly as coming in from the rear of the front.... and gives greater control of how much material it taken away of the aperture. I can now see that the reason all bumpers are fitted pointing to the heavens is due to the mounting rails of the bumper.. the top of them is inclined.... so, it's a bumper design issue - not a body one - one which Scalextric can rectify fairly easily when hopefully, they release the follow up Bathurst winner - and avoid me having to "kit bash" this model for a second season... Pix - all explanatory... much neater aperture created using a very sharp scalpel... the rear... and some styrene card blocks I used MEK to fuse into the bumper for mounting back into the apertures.... When the bumper blocks have fully cured out... I mount it to the body and take some pix to add here... It's not a huge job - fairly easy, really... but - great care has to be taken with that Dremel... I suggest scribing a line with the back of a scalpel blade before attempting the first run with the engraver - it if goes wayward - it can do a lot of damage to the bumper, the indicators or if pushed too far - the headlight assembly... frats, Rosco
  14. Thanks Vinno - I should have avoided asking you the question - apologies.... I went to the Tamiya website.... X20A thinners is acrylic thinners, it's water based. Hence the "A" behind it... no idea what the 20 means... The "X" series of paints are acrylic... and I have used both acrylic and lacquer thinners with them both.... X-20A is propanol/alcohol based (not recommended as a substitute for beer) and hence why it can be used directly on styrene and other sensitive plastics. Lacquer thinner has ethylene glycol monobutyl and methyl isobutyl ketone.... it would be the ketone which would be the most aggressive of these solvents... I'll thin the acrylic (X series) clear coat with X-20A thinner... should be fine.. I can then go over the top with an enamel clearcoat... more than likely the Humbrol enamel clear that I have... it hardens and pulls down very nicely.... frats, rosco
  15. Thanks again, Vinno - I have some of that.... I have two types of Tamiya thinner... "lacquer thinner" and x20-A... no idea what the difference is and it's too long ago since I used either of them to remember.... something is nagging me that I should use the lacquer thinner... I have three large bottles of that, and only one of the X20-A. frats, Rosco
  16. Hi Grant... they will get cleaned whilst cleaning up the airbrush etc..... Hopefully, the fan at rear will extract any spurious paint mist away from the lights...... and model.... Airborne paint particles can settle down on an otherwise good paint job.... more so in an enclosure... so, the fan will hopefully rectify a lot of this. Getting fan speed right will be the challenge - hence the controllable voltage regulator I will build to run it.... the full 12v will be way too much - and probably result in more crud getting sucked in over the front of a job than would be without such a setup... I created a dual fan arrangement for the absorption fridge in the caravan... as an extraction unit - this is where my "idea" for a spray booth came from. I fitted two such fan units in series - and they run fairly sedately... too much air and the evaporator fins simply don't get cooled.... the air is extracted away from them.... slow the fans down, and the entire cabinet is vented... so, with this in mind - and the fresh paint vulnerable to attack from intake - I'll mess around a bit with fan speed.... I positioned the fan intake high up in the chamber.... where mist is likely to "cloud"... this should allow relatively low impact on a model low down in the booth..... I could fit two such fans in series - as in the van fridge rear compartment... but I believe the volume of extraction would be too high... so, I am aiming at just removing what is necessary - rather than effecting a "fan forced" extraction system.... Further - I made the booth large enough so that I could move my hands, airbrush and model around in it without being cramped.... or for larger projects..... as you are very well aware - I am besotted with many differing hobbies... each of them lending these little accessories to each other..... let you know how it goes and further developments once I put it to use.... so far, happy with the lighting components... This is the plan - yet to be put to use... still waiting on fans to arrive.... frats, Rosco
  17. Hi folk, spent most of yesterday making up a little booth to airbrush models in..... out of plywood and some pine framework... It has long been a concern of mine that some of the chemicals I use are probably not good for me, although after some 55 years - and using some of the most harshest of these when a kid... .like model aeroplane dope... in a bedroom with the door and windows closed - it's surprising I'm still here.... However - with failing eyesight, I find that I need plenty of light when airbrushing now - to get satisfactory results.... and I came up with an idea which would lend itself to serve both purposes... lighting and also to vent away the chemicals when airbrushing.... I bought three very bright LED house downlights.. and cut holes in the top and both sides of my booth to fit them..... the results are quite pleasing... lights up the area like the Blackpool illuminations.. very easy to follow a "wet edge" as you apply paint to a model... I cut a hole in the upper rear as well.. and will fit a small computer ball bearing fan (on order)... I'll make up a voltage regulator circuit so that I can control the speed of the fan... enough to vent the fumes, but not enough to draw dust in from the front of the booth - or to draw the fan of paint away.... Some pix.... This is the booth, with a model on a wire frame for size comparison.... you can see the three fitted LED's in this pic. I am currently in the process of refurbing my oldest models... purchased in June of 1970 when I started work at age 15... both Scalextric - a Ferrari P4 and a Lamborghini Muira (C16 and C17). I intend to post a refurb report on these models... with white metal gearboxes.... they are both now great runners.. with original motors in them.. but I have done quite a bit of work to get them to run.... report later.... Booth..... This one gives a pretty good indication of the light within the booth.... the pic was taken in this room of mine, with the light on.... clearly, the room light is no match for that of the booth... And finally - looking inside the booth.... not quite needing sunglasses - but certainly enough light to follow the wet edge around a model when air-brushing... I chose to paint the booth using acrylic house primer/sealer... it is non-gloss and avoids a lot of reflection on the model.... easy to clean and should not attract dust. I have fitted my airbrush holder on the right of the booth... not shown in these pix... Hope this gives folk some ideas.... frats, Rosco
  18. Thanks Vinno.... I've got quite a few extra of Patto's decals that I probably won't use..... I'll have a play with differing things and try to find out what works and what products destroy his decals.... I'm not so fussed about the Marlboro ones for all the Scalextric Torries that I have.. but when it comes to applying these great decal sets (including pin-striping) for the LC and LJ - I want that to go without a hitch.... these models will look amazing if I get the decals right - they are a credit to Patto.... so too, the cast bodies from Munter - although I'll have to chop and change quite a bit to make an LC out of an LJ... but, I'll get there.... I have used Micro sol with model railways - and the stuff pulls down the decal perfectly to fit to shape of the intricate body detail.... like rivets and plates - at 1/87th scale....Micro Set will bring them down further if needed - but I fear Patto's decals won't stand the chemicals in them.. and I don't want to compromise the work he has done in printing them.. I have not used Humbrol decal fix yet... it was recommended to me by my model railway supplier - his telling me that it is no longer possible to get Micro solutions (which it is, I have just purchased enough to see me out in modeling). Thanks for your info on how you have set them.... I can chase up Mr Mark Softer if I can't get either the Micro or Humbol ones to work without Patto's decals suffering.. I have Humbrol Clear Cote, Floquil Glaze or Tamiya clear as options for over-coating decals once they are dry.... I'm not sure which acrylic you refer to - but by what you post - I take it that Tamiya enamel clear will attack them... so, there is an acrylic clear you are using prior to that..... can you tell me which brand that is? Thanks again... frats, Rosco frats, Rosco
  19. Ok folk, "stuff" has arrived and I can continue on the builds..... Hit a hurdle though - paint colour.... Can anyone tell me what the red is that the LJ HDT Torana's were painted in....? please... I have Patto's decal set with the red deleted.. so, this decal set is applied over a red base.... it's much deeper and darker than the later A9-X series... probably more like the L-34, which to me is more of a blood red... If you know what the colour is - and have had success in modeling it - I'd really appreciate what paint and colour you used... My LJ is currently in grey primer - I can just about go ahead now and apply colour... frats, Rosco
  20. Hi..... can you slot me in as an entry please..... I'll try and get a model up for the series... If you get the field of 24 up before closing and I'm nowhere near ready - I"m happy to drop off the list.... but, if we need to fill the field - I'll do my best.... no guarantee that the body will have anywhere near the detail of the previous T-53 though... frats, Rosco
  21. Question without notice..... decals. What are people using with Patto's decals... both in laying them down and settling them in. My Micro Sol and Set have just turned up, but Patto warns of using anything other than water on them.... and a floor polish to seal them in... Appreciate any suggestions.. frats, Rosco
  22. Thanks Vinno..... I'll stick with the factory tyres for a spell... model hasn't hit the track yet... (basically because there isn't one until I put one together".. should be a bit of fun "in the wet" until I get sick of it and go with the MJK's... frats, Rosco
  23. I fly a bit of old timer (funny that) and sport - Gold Wing rated, started aerobatics - but left the sport before I began competition... could do all the "sportsman" pattern and some of the "advanced" - favorite was a three turn spin. Have all models I have built - three from kits, but the entire rest are from plans. Fly fishing - well, you won't have enough time in retirement to learn it..... so, make a start now - nothing too serious, but the earlier you learn to cast - the more you'll enjoy it later on. Can pick up beginner level 6 weight rod/reel/line pretty cheaply these days.... floating line, weight forward.... learning to tie flies... a new world all of its own..... Charlie Craven's book would be the one I'd point you at..... pick that up now and start to appreciate just how easy some of the flies are to tie.... when, why and how to use them.... Like most hobbies - they will extract every Rubel you have.. if you let them...... there is always "more"... and the word "must" seems to be congruous in all of them... slot cars included. We should start another thread, Andrew - Vinno would never have believed his thread could end up with fly fishing in it..... frats, Rosco
  24. Andrew, I don't think there is a conceivable hobby known to man that I haven't had....... and have kept everything..... I flitter into and out of each one as the will takes me... for now, I'm back into slot cars.... but, there are about three on the go at any one time.... The other two at present are r/c and fly fishing... mainly tying flies... Oh, and model railways - they have popped up again after a 20 year absence.... I fly fixed wing, drone and small heli's (mainly indoor with 4 channel heli's).... I was an instructor at the local field... then went dormant for many years, came back into the sport after I found heli's...which were mode 2.... and converted myself to fly fixed wing in mode 2 - best thing ever I did with r/c... it just feels "right"... aileron/elevator on the right stick.. rudder stays the same - but you swap over throttle to the left stick.... In mode 2, you can fly with one arm stuck behind your back.... never messed with modes 3 or 4, but I know of people who have had strokes and lost the use of their right hand.... they use their nose to push up the throttle stick.. and avoid rudder altogether.... some just fly three channel - on the leftt stick and the "nose" for throttle on the right.... works for them. I'm looked at as a martian at our field.... mode 2 - frightens the bejesus out of most of them..... "cack handed" is another term.... but, when I take this laptop down to the field with Pheonix flight sim - and give them a whack at mode 2 - all of them love it.... until someone else comes into the room...... and they go hush about it.... Ok....again - 'nuff from me.... apologies (again and again) to the OP (Vinno). frats, Rosco
  25. Sounds good, Andrew..... I was also considering "flush" fitting the windows and getting rid of that extra weight of the insert up high in the model.... Depends how "robust" you want the model to remain, I guess..... an errant finger from a steward might punch a flush mounted window back in.... but, again - considerable weight from where we don't want it can be chopped out of the model... flush fitting of windows is always a much more appreciative appearance..... In r/c flying of aircraft.. I use a product called "canopy glue".... it remains slightly flexible - yet has considerable strength... I apply many coats of this in small amounts until I get the "fill" I need and also the strength... most of he weight evaporates as the glue dries out... the product is called "Formula 560" made by Pacer.... (USA) clear fast drying bonds canopies and plastic parts to almost anything remains flexible when set I then use Tamiya "rubber black" to fine line it .... which results in a realistic rubber windscreen "rubber".... If I can't get a satisfactory result from the supplied windows insert - I will make up my own... from either cellulose or perspex sheet.. cut exactly to size or maybe a thou undersize to allow for the glue.... I have used a Coke bottle for a rounded front windscreen on a slot car..... my 1970 purchase (at age 15) Scalextric Lamborghini Muira - which I smashed the entire insert.... These bottles have an amazing number of curved option areas.... and are almost indestructible..... and just so cheap. You can polish them with Tamiya plastic compound.... and a calico buffing pad in a Dremel.... good work on your times.. Forgot - I am coming up with another plan....... if you want to get a bit more, replace the front axle.... I like to use Slot-It hollow axles for the faster cars I have.... the wheels are retained using eyelets. What this does, is allows the front wheel to revolve independently of the other one..... you'll find that you can get through corners quicker - no drag from the inside wheel slowing down the outside one.... The downside, is that if you need to fit new tyres - you have to destroy any insert to release the eyelet. In my current LJ/LC Torana build - I'm going to experiment with mounting this axle as two stub axles.... That is, cut the axle ends off - fit the wheels to them (and inserts etc).... then fit the stub axles into a very close fitting tube, or box section... and retain the stub axle using a grub screw through the tube/box..... This way, if I need to "service" the wheel - I can simply undo the grub and withdraw it.... fit both stubs/wheels/tyres to a section of tube and grub them in... then fit the assembly to a tyre truer..... when done, simply re-install to the model using the grubs.... no messing around with inserts and eyelets... they are a permanent fit. All this is yet to be worked out - but, I have a plan.... it should work. OK, gone way too far again... frats, Rosco
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