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rosco01

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Posts posted by rosco01


  1. I have ordered four airbrushes in separate orders through Amazon.... three of them have arrived safely. All orders have been from the US.

    Strangely, two were sent through USPS and arrived very quickly indeed - within 10 days, both on the same day as separate packages.

    The third was the first ordered and came in at 19 days through Fastway... the fourth, again another Fastway order - is supposed to arrive here on 29th Jan..... all orders were placed within a week of each other... 

    It would seem, Fastway is not as the name might suggest... 

    I also ordered some "Redgab" (name reversed is Badger) "needle juice"... it has taken the longest of all - it was ordered before the airbrushes and arrived yesterday - from the US, and to my home via AusPost...

    I have a package of axle and gear sets for a locomotive coming as well from the US... still hasn't been shipped, order placed two weeks back.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  2. Chas, appreciate exactly where you are with our shared hobby - I would certainly not suggest that I am a rivet counter, I do like a bit of detail - but we must appreciate, slot cars are just that.... meant to be run, and not showcased - there are other factions in modeling more suited to the number of screws around headlights, etc... 

    I do like to add detail, to me it brings life into a model.. but never to the extent that it will ever be subjected to someone visually scouring every detail to find error in scale.. I can live quite easily without that.

    I too, have been retired for a similar time - and my first slot car was purchased at around age 12.... nearly some 55 years back now - a journey I have enjoyed almost all of my life.

     

    I digress terribly from the subject of this thread - but believe reply warranted to your post..... 

     

    Looking forward to sharing the series with you Chas - and finally getting view of the competing models. Mine won't result in anywhere near the detail that I put into my previous entries..... but, I'm hoping it will yet be another model I will enjoy owning....

    Apologies to the OP for digression...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  3. I use PostImage, OS-62..... bit of a pain not being able to post direct into our forum, but it doesn't take a lot to upload to PostImage - then copy the provided link and simply paste into your thread..... let me know if I can help.

    Link to PostImage..... it's free, and seems to work pretty well for me - only downside with being free - pix have to be uploaded separately... just a bit of an inconvenience.

     

    https://postimages.org/

     

    But, compared to my previous host - where I did a huge amount of work on many other forums..... and then they all disappeared because they wanted money.... grrrrr

    So far so good with PI..... 

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  4. Bill Brown's momentus roll over from the top of the mountain... everyone held their breath... 

    That car was repaired and raced again... not sure if Bill ever did though..... 

    You'll find the pix in "Old Motor Racing Photographs"... will attach the link when I have time.... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  5. 1 hour ago, Vinno said:

    And the brass bushes. 

    I spotted those too, Vinno - someone has made a hash of trying to add them to the chassis - the end result would have denigrated performance.... the right hand bush is cock-eyed and must have caused binding across the axle...... or perhaps - it was a "loose" fit.

    I'm starting to think that heat has been applied to "fuse" the plastic in some for.... I don't believe it was a soldering iron, perhaps a heat gun or torch. Possibility may have been to fit the brass bushes and "melt" them in... if anyone is considering this, just remember all plastic has a "memory"... and as it cools out - without being held in shape, is more than likely to take on a different shape than planned... if this has been the case, we can see here those results...

    We must not forget here, that there are many slot car owners who are too frightened to have a go at tuning a model - for fear of making irripairable mistakes - too much negative comment and they either don't make any attempt again, or walk away from the hobby.... but - for goodness sake, if someone is going to make a first attempt and attack a chassis like this without at least throwing up their intentions to the forum for advice - they would be better advised to leave it to someone who has a little bit of experience - or ask them for hands on guidance... 

     

    My thoughts,

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  6. I'd love to have masked and spray the white, Shaynus - which would have demanded that I spray white first, and over coat with red.... always, dark over light when masking.

    The only reason I have decided against doing my own "work" - is the very fine pin striping that Patto has provided in his decals.... 

    He has deleted the red ink from the decals - hence why I have sprayed the model red.... 

    When the decals are applied over the red base..... the pin striping will show through... in red - obviously, the deleted ink simply is clear film..... 

    the white of the decal is going to be my "panel" work... how it comes up over my work I am yet to find out. We have a long way to go before we look at decals.... 

    I am ever hopeful, that this model will be a kind reflection of the car it is attempting to replicate in scale.... we'll see. Just a bit disappointed at present - that will all change when I address this paint issue... I'll overcome it, just means a bit of work.... probably saw the result before I commenced the paint process... vision, eh?... might have had my "rosco" blinkers on... 

     

    thanks for your kind words - and yes, some would simply fit a chassis under this result and enjoy putting in a few laps.... might have to keep the model moving, we wouldn't want to risk anyone actually focusing on it..... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  7. Ok folk,

    here they are..... paint is still very soft - it may pull down a lot further yet as it cures out, and hopefully some of that gloss and mirror finish will come up.... but, I'm pretty much resigned to it having to be blocked down and re-sprayed..... 
    if you look closely - you can see the very heavy build of paint.. this shows up around the detail areas.... 

    We'll get there, just not yet.

    So - it will be at least a week before I return to work on this part of the build. Hopefully, the angular bearings will arrive early next week and we can re-assemble the lathe.. and turn up some new wheels ... I can then make a start on the chassis.

     

    Pix.. not happy, Jan.... 

     

    5007-colour-coat-mail.jpg

     

    5008-colour-coat-mail.jpg

     

    5009-colour-coat-mail.jpg

     

    5010-colour-coat-mail.jpg

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  8. Hmmm....that certainly is a "challenge".

    I'm seriously hoping that the original owner of this chassis is not a forum member...?

    Not unfixable - but a lot of work, just the same. 

    From what I can see in your pix, from the motor mount forward could be brought up to scratch. From there back, it's not a cot-case - but certainly would involve a lot of replacing and the amount of work involved in making the refurb robust enough for both the rear axle and motor.... if it were me, I'd simply make up a brass and piano wire chassis and replace it.

    If you were stubborn enough to want to fix this - you could maybe incorporate a motor/axle pod arrangement to the rear.

    I don't believe I'd be brave enough to use a lamination of styrene card fused into the Hornby chassis.. it may be possible to do this by drilling and fitting brass screws - but I believe the work involved would far outweigh an easier alternative.

    That chassis has been hashed....when I first saw the first pic, I was of the opinion it was a result of being in a dwelling fire... but then I saw the cut marks...

    I can see that much of the attack has been effected to provide body float... but the amount of attack around the rear axle and crown opening.... hmmmmm I'm lost for words.

    I'm starting to plan think this out, and see no other option than to cut out just enough of what remains of the rear to build in a replacement - the more I think on it, the more of the plan becomes clearer. I'd certainly be incorporating a little bit of brass or some thin piano wire into any addition - the piano wire running forward enough that it can be firmly fixed to the front half of the chassis...... there you have it - done. Cut the rear off, lay some piano wire along the sides of where the motor will go and secure it down to the chassis. then "build" the rear from a brass motor/axle frame..... 

    The end result would more than not conform to any club rules regarding original chassis - so, we'd just ditch that idea and build up a full piano wire and brass chassis and be done with it... 

     

    My thoughts,

     

    frats,

    Rosco

     


  9. Hi Warren,

    I'll have some colour pix up shortly - but yesterday was a day of alarm and disappointment.... I'll try to explain in the sequence of events.

    Before I start prattling on (again)... I must first state that the model looks amazing in red... 

    As stated up above, I ran away from the original plan of using auto paint... it penetrated the Tamiya lacquer primer.... 

    I chose to go with Tamiya X-7 red, and had the bottle of Tamiya lacquer thinner open ready to make up my mix - when something kicked in and stopped me - the concern of the lacquer bringing issues out in the putty simply frightened me from doing so... I reached for my bottle of X-20A acrylic thinners and mixed up about 20 ml .... blended it up for a few minutes with the great little Badger paint mixer (worth every cent).

    Washed the body down in warm soapy water and rinsed it thoroughly... then took it out to the paint shop and used an air wand to dry it off... not allowing the surface to self-dry.... I have found this method prevents residue from the water evaporating on its own.

     

    Set up the booth, and air brush (Badger 200, which I have used for all of my air-brushing in over 30 years).. and laid down a few passes on some scrap.

    Immediately - my dislike for using red paint returned before my eyes... I find red to be a most difficult colour to get coverage... it is almost translucent... 

    Not only that, but I also found this mix to be thicker than any of the other Tamiya paints mixed at 1:1... it came out of the brush in a blotchy pattern. I tried a little more thinners - with no better result, and I was not prepared to add any more - being translucent... so, the plan changed very quickly.

    I laid down a few coats with flashing off between them... the underlying guide coat and where I had rubbed through into the etch primer took a huge amount of passes to finally get coverage... 

    The result of this was that I have now contradicted just about everything I have posted on keeping paint film thin... in this case - it's probably the thickest coating i have applied to a model in more than 20 years.... 

    Now, the good bit - it looks amazing... not quite what I'd hoped for - but very satisfying none-the-less.... the surface is not the mirror gloss which should have come, but it's close... 

    Now - next bit..... curing.... I have found this X-20A thinners (acrylic) to dry sufficiently to be handled lightly in a few hours.... but, if it is to be gripped for work - it will readily leave finger prints embedded into the paint.... add to this, the huge amount of coats I have been forced to apply - it will take at least a week for it to cure sufficiently to be either blocked or compounded (trade word for cut and polished)... I am yet to determine which way I'll go with this yet.... it has to cure out to allow me to do some testing.

     

    So - for those following - I have some new suggestions when using this red paint.

    One - your primer coat - if you break though to the substrate or etch underneath, re-apply the primer so that there is a solid coverage.... you will more than likely get away with applying only a few coats of this red over that... the grey will be visible through the paint, but it will produce a consistent overall colour.

    Two - Be prepared that it may take more than one spray session to get good coverage.... it is my belief at present, that I'll be blocking down again and laying a further few coats in a second session.... mainly to reduce the paint film, but also to get a flatter finish... I can see tiny flutter in my finish - and I guess that is the bit which disappoints me most.... if I'd colour coated with black or any dark pigment paint - this would have been a mirror finish... it was absolutely perfect after blocking down with the guide coat... 

    Three - if you "believe" your paint layers are getting too thick - stop..... laying more down is only forcing more work in removing it..... you are not going to reach a "one shot" result if you can't get coverage after six or more passes..... and each one will fill detail...... 

     

    I'll fire off a few pix later when i can handle the model.... 

    I'm happy with the look of the model, I believe I'm happy with the red  - just not happy with the body and transparency of the paint, and how I have duped myself into applying far more than I should have... 

    Red - stunning colour, but one of the most difficult to spray....

     

    Back later.. with some pix.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  10. Ok - we're about to shoot some colour..... but!

    My chosen Holts "radiant red" is of no use to me over Tamiya grey primer.... and I'm not prepared to attempt to spray an auto lacquer over the model so that I can... or it could very well result in the same disaster..... the thinners in the automotive paint are way too aggressive for the Tamiya paint... and I would further more than likely risk it fusing into the Tamiya putty beneath.... we would then be three weeks back to building up the putty.... not going to happen.

     

    I did some testing prior to mixing the paint up.... and have been saved despair. 

    This testing clearly revealed that the automotive paint would have penetrated the primer - and putty.... so - it's out.... 

    I am now in a conundrum as to paint again... but I believe I have come up with a solution.

     

    In the process of laying down a number of test patches inside the model - to compare the results over Tamiya grey primer - I have found that the Tamiya "red" acrylic - X-7 is not too far off the mark.. not as close as radiant red, but it's maybe only a hue or shade too "cyan" than it..... 

    The radiant red breakdown was C 2, M 99, Y 100 and K 1..... the Tamiya X-7 is C 17, M 100, Y 100 and K 9...... Patto's ink is C 8m M 99, Y 100, K 1... so, what we have is just a tad more cyan in our Tamiya X-7.... and it will marry perfectly with both the Tamiya primer and putty.... 

     

    The pic below reveals what would have eventuated if I'd gone ahead and sprayed up automotive paint (thinners, actually - the paint would have been fine)...

    The A9-X is at left, the underside of the LJ centre and the L-34 at right. 

    As you can see, the paint used on both the A9-X and L-34 are very close to the Tamiya red (if not what was used at the factory in China).It's not as dark as I would like.. and I'm not going to mess with adding tint to it..... a nightmare, if ever I need to repair the paintwork... and small batches of "mix" simply don't stay matched for long periods.

    The six test strips inside the model, from left are....

    Tamiya Mica Red in lacquer, Tamiya Red in lacquer, Tamiya X-7 red, Radiant red with lacquer thinners, Radiant red with Tamiya thinners, Radiant red as it was decanted out of the aerosol.

    You can clearly see that the last three have penetrated the grey primer.... resulting in a very much darkened outcome... I fear this penetration will also extend into the putty - and I am not going to risk that...

     

    Pic...

     

    3012-Tamiya-acrylic-red.jpg

     

    So, we are going to mix up our X-7 with lacquer thinners and lay down a few coats until I get coverage.... hopefully, the Tamiya system will bring a satisfactory result.... I'm not planning on this being the final coat before decals, but we should get a fair indication of how the layers will settle down... 

     

    Back later - exciting, isn't it?

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 2

  11. Oops... forgot another important bit about blocking down...... edges and "crowns"... these are danger areas and prone to being rubbed down well before the surrounding area has..... so, we need a little care here and a change to our method.

    Never rub "across" an edge.... golden rule.... rub "along" it... and use two grades of paper finer than that for the surrounding area.

    When you clock these down - work along the edge in very light cuts... sort of "rolling" each cut further around the edge with each cut.... "hexing" if you like.... a final "rounded over" cut can be taken with the very finest paper you can get (2500, in my case - which is not much heavier than newspaper)... it will take the fine hexes out of those cuts.

    Crowns - these are high spots in an otherwise flat local area.... we see them in body detail a lot... bulges where air scoops, bonnet flaring and pointed areas (like the front of this model)... they are danger areas - and take quite a bit of work..... it is absolutely important that we work very finely here... and take "equal" cuts from both sides.... or we will "lop-side" the end result.

    The same can be said when blocking down putty - so, if you have yet to reach the putty stage - it is very good practice for what will eventually follow - the paint.... 

    Any fine detail will can be kept from the model until after assembly will be strongly advised to do so...... it can go on just before the clear coat... which will pretty much take out any visible addition line..... and make applying decals ever so much easier. As you can see, I have drilled my holes for the wipers and fuel filling pipe... they will be painted up prior to adding to the model.... and a final clear coat will marry them into the surrounding area fairly nicely.

     

    There will be more, but for now - I can't bring it to mind.... we'll get to these things as the model begins to take shape and the detail is added.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  12. Ok, see if I can answer this in order of questions...

    Blocking back - no, definitely not anything soft.... especially fingers. You need a firm block which will "just" follow the contour of what you are working on.... eg, bonnet = pretty much absolutely firm, stainless even..... curved roof = firm piece of neoprene rubber, mine is 3 mm thick... bootlid = 1.5 mm neoprene rubber block..... there is a pic and some text up above regarding this in the little "tools" post I put up.

    If you block back using your fingers - they will follow the contour of the guide coat.. and you pretty much will lose everything the guide coats puts at your fingertips (pun intended).

    When you block down, do not simply rub in one direction - or you'll end up putting "flats" or "hexes" on your work.... I "cross-hatch" - meaning, I work the panel at 90 degree cuts to each other..... rub in one direction along the panel, rinse and wipe, then rub at 90 degrees to that and repeat until the guide coat is gone.. or whatever is under the primer begins to show through.

    We only need to use a grade of wet/dry which enable us to work the thickness of both the guide coat and primer.... the heavier grade you use, the deeper will be the cuts - and the less of them you will be able to take before what's underneath shows through....

    So, in this case - I have used 1200 keeping it wet.... until most of the guide coat has been removed - I then switched to 1500 for a few cuts and finished up with 2000. Both 1500, 2000 are available from your auto panel paint supplier. 2400 is also available - it is brilliant for bringing up plastic prior to a plastic polish... 2400 is a bit of a waste on primer.... we really need a tiny bit of "keying" (keying is the extremely fine cuts) so that the overlaying coats have a mechanical grip on the blocked down surface..... this is not so important with lacquer paint, as the lacquer in it will partially dissolve that of the thinners based primer underneath... of course, the wetter you apply the lacquer paint between flashing off - the more risk you bring to the thinners in it reactivating those in the primer.... so, be mindful of this if you intend to apply lacquer paint heavily.... and pretty much the only reason people do this - is to obtain a better gloss finish.

    This is a little bit defective in logic and practice..... we don't need to build up a gloss just yet.... we have decals and probably other things to add ..... and we are going to clear coat the end result - that's where we'll get our mirror finish.

    What is important - is that we get good colour coverage.. and a smooth finish - as little rippling or "flutter" as we can, depending on the airbrush we are using - an internal mix gun will obtain far flatter and finer results than an external.... 

    But, this is not so important - as it is more likely we will be blocking down the colour coats to some extent... it is difficult to spray colour coats with the finish we would like .... especially if it is "flat" or semi-gloss..... gloss will "flow out" better... but it's a balance of how much thinners is mixed in with the paint.... too thick, and you won't get it to flow out - and it is more likely to dry in the air before it hits the work... too thin, and we risk both flooding or pooling up of the paint.... and worse - runs.

    Pooling up will fill delicate detail... like the lines in doors and windows.. badges etc. etc.... we don't want that.... so, we sort of aim to get full colour coverage - and nice flow out - without building up the thickness of the paint too much...... hard to explain, if you have never done this... 

    Our gloss coats and final protection come with the clear coating.... again, building up layers of it with flash off times between coats. With an acrylic paint, this flash off time is longer.... with lacquer - much shorter... it's the end result we are looking for with both.

    Lacquer is a much harder film which protects everything under it.... and I firmly believe this to be the appropriate paint for slot cars.

    Model railways, where items are rarely touched - work fine with an acrylic paint system... enamel even... but they never reach the same hard shell coating as that of lacquer.

     

    The danger with lacquer is that it is dangerous to your health... it's the thinners in it. Hence my recent project to construct a spray booth with exhaust fans... and the added benefit of diffused lighting... 

     

    Grant - finally to you. Wheels - yes, I have all 23 of them... probably a dozen or so are fully serviceable, and will more than likely be used - but not on this project. 

    The wheels I made for the tyres and inserts.... no issue with the magnificent inserts that Munter provides in his kit...

    The tyres - nope - they are way too wide... and all the wheels I have turned so far have been done to spec for them.... 

    I now have narrower tyres, and they make the model look a lot more proto-typical..... as mentioned many times, I'm more of a modeler than a racer.. or operator.

    I want scale - and the previous sets of tyres I have simply don't fit in with the result I seek..... so, I'm now in the process of re-assembling the lathe (spindle bearings on order) - then I'll turn up wheels to fit these better scale tyres.... if anyone is interested - they are the MJK tyres which fit a Scalextric Cortina or Escort... being 13".. and pretty close to fitting a 6" wide wheel.

    I can turn up the insert cavity to suit Munter's wheel inserts.. so, it's no biggie to me that the wheels which I would otherwise have to purchase for these wheels would not suit Munter's inserts... think that makes sense?

    Grille - no, had to be brass..... the thickness of credit card material is way too thick.. even thicker than the first grille I made up.... 

    Of course, I could have used the credit card face on and scribed lines through it... but, I wanted "open" grille on this model... along with the other apertures and detail. The small intakes into the cabin plenum chamber were painstakingly drilled and gouged out.... so too, the slits in the sides of the front guards... I may not do this with the LC which will follow later in the year - but this being PB's first win at Bathurst - I wanted to re-create as close a life-like model as I am capable of... and these small amounts of detail were well and truly part of the plan.

    Further, I went with brass - because of it's very strong durability when assembled... previous experience in other hobbies has given me confidence in doing this..... and I have found that soldering brass together is extremely robust - you could put this grille between your fingers and try to twist or bend it for all your worth - it is rock solid.. no other medium was going to come close to that. The thickness of the brass I have used is just 0.25 mm... from brass shim sheet...... yet, assembled and soldered - apart from the ends - it is almost unbendable.... the slit and lattice construction has added a lot to this.

     

    Ok.. think that's about it. We're nearly down to the last of blocking back... I am still hopeful that I'll get "colour" onto the model by this evening... or perhaps after dinner.

     

    Hope I've answered all your questions...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  13. Shaynus......... if you get stuck, I firmly believe there to be a lot of acceptable "interpretation" by clubs when it comes to the demands of "original chassis".

    In my opinion, rightly or wrongly - for as long as the chassis conforms to original design and basic componentry - there is huge "scope" for re-creating it.... 

    Of course, this would more than likely demand that "some" of the original chassis is retained/used... 

    We would have to know what the rules of each club - or in general demand of the written specification or definition of "chassis".... if this has not yet been decreed - perhaps it is timely that it should..... 

    My 2c...

    frats,

    Rosco


  14. I am at present almost mid-way through blocking down the guide coat and primer.

    In the following pix - I am hoping to indicate just how beneficial this process is in obtaining the best possible surface in preparation for those lovely colour coats... 

    There are three pix here..... all of them revealing the "work" yet to be effected.

    In the side on pic, we can see the "low" areas along the panels.... indicated by the remainder of guide coat on the surface. Further blocking down should remove these..... as the surrounding primer is taken further down, being proud above the surface of that still underneath the guide coat.

    You can also see some little "nicks" in the work - very clearly indicated by the black which reports them.... 

    The options to remedy these are either to block the entire surrounding surface down - providing there is enough primer remaining.. or to "spot prime" - or even more demanding - putty... and repeat the process back up to guide coat.

    It depends on the finish required.... 

    As we very well know with this model, there will be a considerable amount of decals laid down over the colour coats.... I am not greatly concerned of tiny imperfections because of this -but I will work the primer down until the underlying 1K etch shows through (you can see that  I have already "just" reached this point in some of the pix). 
    It is extremely important not to go any further than the 1K etch - for, if that is blocked away - it will expose the substrate (casting, in this case) or more critically - putty..... and we will be in all sorts of trouble when lay down our colour coats.... 

     

    If I were to be painting a model with only a few adorning decals, I would probably now have decided to respray primer to correct some of the tiny little blemishes - revealed by this blocking down of guide coat... 

    The finish is only ever going to be as good as the work performed underneath it - this is the golden spray painter's rule.... if you want a great finish - you have to put in the work... the greatest top coat of paint cannot possibly conceal shoddy work underneath...and - you may get away with it for a short while, but I can guarantee you - as the paint fully cures out and "pulls down"... these errors will come to the surface... as i have experienced many years back in full scale auto spray painting..... 

     

    Ok - pix.... 

     

    3009-lh-semi-blocked-mail.jpg

     

    3010-front-blocked-mail.jpg

     

    3011-rear-blocked-mail.jpg

     

    I will continue with blocking my work down..... at present, there is every chance that we'll be in "colour" by the end of today - I have not seen anything which demands I go back through the preparation stages ..... yet....

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  15. We have now reached a milestone stage in the body - we are in "guide coat"..

    For those not familiar with this, you have seen cars being driven around in it for many years - but not knowing what it was, or its purpose.

    It gives the appearance of a "speckled" overspray - sometimes very thin, depending on work needed to the surface beneath... the more obvious work - the thicker the coat.

    As the name suggests, it is a very feint coating applied over primer which allows the spray painter to "see" where work has yet to be effected.

    It is a sacrificial very thin coating of contrasting paint that, for the most - will be removed during the "blocking back" stage - the next in line.

    As it is sacrificial - any excess applied is simply waste... as it will be removed in the blocking back process...

    It's purpose is to reveal both the high spots, nicks, and low areas where the primer must be rubbed back to remove. Obviously, if there is insufficient primer - more needs to be sprayed on the panel.. and the guide coating/blocking back process repeated.

    There are areas where it is almost impossible to get into - and it is for this reason alone - that the paint used in guide coating must be compatible with whatever is to be laid down over it... 

     

    I have used Tamiya semi-gloss, with X20-A acrylic thinners.... this combination affords me relative ease in blocking down through it - yet should not effect the top coat of lacquer applied over it when the underlying coats have fully cured out (Americans call this "setting up").

     

    So - here are some pix of our project after the Tamiya fine primer has fully "set up"... and the guide coat applied in readiness for blocking down.

     

    Pix..

     

    3005-guide-coat-left-mail.jpg

     

    3006-guide-coat-top-mail.jpg

     

    3007-guide-coat-rear-mail.jpg

     

    3008-guide-coat-front-mail.jpg

     

    Next, we go to the blocking back stage..... 

    back soon...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  16. Update... wasn't happy with the grille aperture last night - another few hours cajoling and tweaking up the position and width of the aperture now has me pretty much convinced I'm as close as I'm going to get.... 

    If you look at the pic below - you can see that I have shifted the aperture upwards... so that the top of it sits parallel with the top of the headlights.

    This has also reduced the thickness of the top and taken away that HJ Kingswood look.

    I have also extended both sides out further - removing some of the flat panel between the aperture and the headlight surrounds.

    This has also added in a greater angled side wall.... 

    I added some styrene card to the base of the aperture - which allowed correct "raking" of the grille.... 

    If you compare these final pix, with that of the proto-type reference pic above - you will more than likely see what a difference these little tweaks and adjustments have made to bring the model closer in appearance.

    Pix.....

     

    1005-front-revised-aperture-mail.jpg

     

    1006-revised-grille-mail.jpg

     

    1007-revised-grille-lh-mail.jpg

     

    We are now about to go etch prime the alterations... and a couple of hours later - will have the body sprayed in fine primer.... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  17. Thanks OS-62... I didn't see it, but I need to adjust the grille - it's positioned pointed upwards.... the rake is built in, and will show up when I re-position the grille to face forward... 

    Didn't see it until I looked at the pix... 

    Still in etch, had trouble with putty not setting hard yet.. so, primer tomorrow... a few coats, then guide coat - and hope to start blocking it down Thursday - still aiming for colour Friday.

    Working on S class loco's again for now.... too cold out in the garage to start on the lathe - don't like exposing it to moisture whilst it's not being worked..

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  18. Ok.... some messing around today, but did manage to trim the grille opening and grille... now an "interference" fit... won't epoxy it in place until we get close to the clear coats.... after decals.

     

    I'm pretty happy with the effort - to say the least..... but, those errant slits in the two uprights which have caused the dip in the upper left horizontal will haunt me - I really should have taken it apart and corrected it.... too late now... this is one of the bugs which will annoy me every time I look at this model...... 

    Pix..

     

    2007-grille-front-mail.jpg

     

    2008-grille-lhs-mail.jpg

     

    2009-grille-front-left-mail.jpg

     

    and just as a comparison from one of the pix I have been using as reference - I don't believe I'm too far away..... by the time the grilke is painted black, and the headlights are in with the surrounds painted black with chrome trim... I believe this will be a pretty close modeling..... little bits here and there I could do - but I'd more than likely knock something else out of kilter and spend more weeks getting it back to where it is at present... 

    Pic..

    2010-LJ-pic-mail.jpg

     

    The body is now in 1K etch... I've had another fiddle with the window lines on both side of the doors... and pretty much have what I want.

    I have also straightened up the right lower door line along the sill.... that was annoying me... 

     

    So - hopefully, this afternoon we'll be in grey primer..... tomorrow guide coat and start blocking it down ready for colour.

    For those not familiar with guide coat - this will be a worthy watch ..... I stole it from my 1:1 spray painting of panels - and it also works a treat in scale... 

     

    Until next..

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 3

  19. Oops... forgot - LJ... in etch primer again.

    I didn't fire off any pix before I sprayed a coat of freshly purchased SEM 1K etch... I really was too eager so learn if this fresh paint was going to cause the underlying putty and whatever is below that to be brought to the surface again... 

    Happy to state - it didn't.. so, we are now back to where we were two days back... decanted Tamiya fine grey primer tomorrow and a few days later - hopefully will block that down (with the above tools) and we might just get some colour on the body by the weekend..... yippee.... been a long, long time.... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  20. Ok Shayne,

    just a few pix especially for you, but others may be interested in some of my little arsenal of tools for modeling... 

    To start with - two pix of the two scalpels I use... pretty much Exacto blades in a #1 pen tool holder.

    The one at top is the tool I go to for very fine work.. scribing lines, delicate cutting away of very fine areas. It has been honed down to about 1/3rd thickness of the original blade.

    The shape of the cutting edge has been formed naturally by the honing process of the edge.

    What you can't see, is just how sharp this invaluable tool is.... it is sharper than razor sharp - one slip with this and you are through to the bone and probably into it.

    Not only is the main cutting edge razor sharp - but so to the back, which is also honed.... this is the edge I use for "gouging" backwards once a track has been established by the cutting edge. The side of the blade is honed as well... so that it does not grab or drag if need to go deep into a cut.

    You can see by the extreme point of this that it means business - and simply has to be treated with the utmost care - let one of your fingers go beyond the safety of the handle or grip... and you will cut... and deep.

    One thing this blade will not do for long - is hold its edge... it has to be kept regularly honed up to be effective for purpose. This is not so hard to do, because the blade is so thin - it only takes a few passes over a diamond stone and we have that amazing edge ready again for work.

    It will not take any abuse.. being so thin, it will either break off (which I do regularly) or blunt if pushed beyond light cuts... not that you'd want to put any weight behind this - if it snaps - you'll more than likely fall victim to whatever is left of the blade as you hand leaps forward... it is absolutely sharp, and I would not recommend anyone hone one up unless you are fully prepared to treat it with the utmost of respect...

    The lower scalpel is pretty much a stock Exacto blade.. but I have honed it up. I have kept the original thickness of this blade for the heavy lifting work of cutting... 

    I hone this blade as well... but keep it thick and usually only use a 600 or 800 diamond stone .... never to the 1000 one used for my fine scalpel.. it simply won't hold the edge long enough to be effective for more than a few cuts... so, we leave this blade with a rougher face - which is more tolerant of being pressed and worked hard.

    Pic..

    1001-scalpels-mail.jpg

     

    Second pic below shows the thickness of the blade... the standard one below gives contrast to that of the fine work one.... as you can see, this fine one has virtually no body at all from 2/3rds of the way along the blade... the end and tip are almost as sharp if moved sideways as it is downwards. The rear of the blade is also honed... for gouging... so - any finger which gets near any of the front of this blade will be cut... and deep... 

     

    1002-scalpels-vert-mail.jpg

     

    And the final scalpel I have - is an "actual" scalpel.. a medical surgeon's one.... 

    If ever you happen to chance on getting one of these - they are simply brilliant. I don't know what the steel is, but it hold its edge for just so long... compared to probably what the rest are that come out of China.... or similar.

    The surgeon's scalpel is oddly shaped - but practical for many jobs. The but of this blade fits into a tool that I don't know... it is very odd shaped. My suspicion is that nothing but one of these blades will fit the tool - and the fitting of any other type of blade simply can't be used in surgery.... other than that, I'm clueless.

    I use this blade mainly for decals and making very sharp lines in masking tape... 

     

    1003-surgeons-scalpel-mail.jpg

     

    And before long, someone is going to ask me to put some pix up of other tools I use for bodywork and painting.... I threw most of what I use onto my desk and will explain them below the pic.... 

     

    1004-tools-mail.jpg

     

    Across the top, there are 7 of my "rubbing blocks". Stainless steel backing with neoprene rubber glued to them. 

    All of these are wrapped with various grades of wet and dry paper... sometimes I use them wet - other times, dry.. depending on what I'm blocking down.

    I use either side of them depending on the surface required... if it must be plate finish flat - it's the steel.. if there has to be some slight curve in a panel - I use the rubber side.

    I have made the thickness of the rubber so that sufficient paper can be wrapped around it... mainly to be comfortable between my fingers as I work the panel... 

    The seven different sizes are, of course - for different sized areas... 

    The entire process is not too far removed from an auto panel shop.. if you want a plate finish in a panel - you have to work the surface down to get it.. and you have to have an equally matching surface on your tool to achieve it... 

    Keeping your paper clean is just as important as the tool itself... it it even get remotely clogged.. you'll gouge tram tracks into your finish... so, I usually go wet and keep it clean .... any grinding causes immediate stop of work.. and it's usually a number of paint spots which have bonded together ..... paper change.... or damage..

     

    Next  below are some of my straight edges.... I use these a lot to get straight lines. I am not ashamed to admit I often use blue tack to hold these in place... laying them onto a painted or plastic surface and expecting one hand to hold them in place whilst the other one is armed with a very sharp blade... not going to happen. so - I put a dab of blue tack over the "top" of the tool to hold it in place... not under it..... or we risk the edge coming up away from the work while we move the blade along.... 

     

    You can see one of the edges I used on the tail-lights of the Torana.... it's actually painted in Floquil "rust"... I used it as a stirring stick - and the paint "stuck"... never bothered to clean it off.

    At one end of this tool, you can see that I have cut and ground out a notch ... the tool then laid on the bumper bar.. and this notch was used to run the horizontal lines across the top of the lights... at the other end, another notch... and this one was used when the tool was placed under the spoiler... allowing a straight edge along the bottom of the lights.

    I'm not afraid to make tools.. and never throw them away... I have a boxful.. from projects spanning decades... nearly all of them are stainless... or brass... they  just "last".

    At bottom, we can see a few of my puttying tools... the smaller ends have been ground for my needs.... I particularly like the small triangle "ironing" one... it pushes putty into some very awkward places... the triangled shape of the rear of this tool allows me to "iron" in the putty and push it into shape.... being smooth, it comes away fairly easily without pulling off putty... and being so - is easily cleaned with some lacquer thinner.... 

    On each side, are my little "icy pole" inventions..... I have containers of wooden icy pole sticks... and I use them for many things...

    Here, we can see that I have used some cyano to glue on some wet and dry paper... on drop, and roll the paper around the stick keeping it in close contact... when the cyano goes off - simply cut away the excess and you have a four edged sanding stick... 

    Cutting the stick down to size to get into tight spots (like the quarter vents in the Torana) makes it easy to work in tight places... 

    You can simply add more paper over the worn out bit.. but I usually just go find another stick.... cheap, but they work.

    If ever you want to get a mirror finish on paint.... go to your auto paint supplier and ask for some 2500 grit wet and dry, whilst you are there - get some 1500 and 2000 as well....

    Use the rubbing blocks and work the surface back and forth.... for finite work, you can also add just a smidge of dishwashing liquid to lubricate the paper.. but it will slow the cutting process.

    Remember - if you "feel" or "hear" anything when you are rubbing - stop... you will be "gouging" your work... 

    And to bring up a final mirror finish to this process... go get some Tamiya polishing compound.. I have it in two different grades.... a coarse and a fine.

    I like to work the finish up by hand, but it's not rare for me to fit a calico wheel to the Dremel and buff a finish up that way.... just be warned, too fast or too much pressure and you will destroy the paint.... the film of paint on a model should be wafer thin... so, we don't have a lot to work down through... 

    Applying more paint to be able to work up a finish by applying more pressure is defective logic... you simply are only filling in precious detail... you will get the finish you want regardless of how thick the paint is... the thinner you can keep the entire process - the more difinitive will be your detail.... we are not "weather proofing" a model with a coating... it's never going to stay out in the sun and rain for weeks on end... but, it will get a workout with "marshall's" mitts and the odd "off"... so, our top coat should be fairly resilient.. not necessarily meaning "thick"... 

     

    Ok.. that should do it for now... happy to answer any questions....

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 2

  21. Thanks Shayne, I spend way too much time on my own modeling... the more I seem to do, the more obsessive it becomes. I'm a long way from reaching some of the most wonderful work I see others do.. but I get the results I aim for, and usually pick up a new trick here and there in the process. I have never asked for hands on help when it comes to modeling.. doing it myself is both the challenge and the reward... but, I do put questions up when I'm stumped and take the advice given.

     

    Scalpels.... for want of a better title.... I tend to work with just two, and have made them myself.... for purpose.

    I'll take a pic tomorrow and show you what I do that enables me to work the blade to a better result than simply taking out a fresh Exacto.

    I use a number of diamond stones to both shape and sharpen my blades.... starting at 400 grit for the bulk of bringing up the shape, and finishing with no finer than 1000. Any finer than that, and I find the blade will grab and gouge.... any coarser than 600 and I find it will leave marks or stray from a straight line - just me, might not work for others.

    With the blade I use for fine line work - I hone the thickness down to about a third of how it was made.... I find I can then hone down the point and cutting edge to something a surgeon would love to get his hands on... but, such a fine tip and blade can't be forced... it's almost useless for cutting material and if pushed too far, will break off in the lines created (the LJ has quite a few of these in some of the tail-light areas).

    I don't like the large aluminium handle tool.... I find I'm too clumbsy with it... preferring the smaller one, which I find gives me greater control, and also avoids much of the errant scraping by the head and finger grip when accessing some of the deeper parts of a model.

    My preferred method to bring out door and window lines is to use a straight edge.. usually something I have made up previously (I have an arsenal of these little jigs and tools... each one made to overcome a problem). 

    I very lightly run the blade along the straight edge to start a line.... then repeat it a number of times until the blade will track true.

    Once that is established, I turn the blade over and "drag" the point of it backwards.... holding it at a fairly low angle... so as not to "chunk" out any putty... it has to be "gouged"... or it will break way and feather up the edges.

    When I have the depth, I clean it up using a small piece of 800 grit wet/dry... but use it dry - wet and it will bend and simply won't follow the line or do any work in truing up the finish.

    For a very straight line, I'll use the corner until I can get the entire length (about 10 mm) of the piece into the slot... and run it through until I get a constant depth.

    Using this method, it is possible to get the very finest of lines in your work.. but, be warned - the following coats of paint will more than likely fill them in... so, I like to leave a bit of width in the cut to account for paint..... and before colour coats go on, I'll run through the primers again with this "paper-cut" method to bring the line back... my colour coats are usually very light - only enough to get full cover... and then a clear coat..... 

    Many modelers over-do it with paint. plaster it on. Might be ok for models such as this LJ.. which is a resin cast model with not a great deal of high def detail..... but, I can assure you - if you were to plaster on heaps of paint onto a brass locomotive model for someone - costing $1k's.... .... they will be very much less than impressed with you simply covering all the very fine and expensive detail up with paint gunk.... 

    I'll add some pix tomorrow, Shayne - and not many more words.... 

    I can produce blades that you simply can't buy.... and I'm happy to help anyone attain them who wants to give it a whirl - you won't look back.... and all those "blunt" blades you have previously thrown away - you won't be throwing them out any longer.... 

    If you can, and it is very difficult to do so - next time you see your GP, ask them if they can give you one of their scalpel blades... the steel in those is incredible - you won't wear it out and it will hold its edge longer than any of the commercial modeling blades..... it is wondeful steel - made in Britain.

    You'll have to modify it a bit to fit a holder..... but it's "doable"... I only use one of those scalpel blades for the most demanding jobs.. and never for simple cuts.... I have not used any of these medical blades on this model.. I may do so when we come to decals.. to get a "beveled" edge on the decal prior to wetting it.- this has worked in the past... 

     

    Ok.... typed too much again.... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1
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