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rosco01

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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Shaynus......... if you get stuck, I firmly believe there to be a lot of acceptable "interpretation" by clubs when it comes to the demands of "original chassis". In my opinion, rightly or wrongly - for as long as the chassis conforms to original design and basic componentry - there is huge "scope" for re-creating it.... Of course, this would more than likely demand that "some" of the original chassis is retained/used... We would have to know what the rules of each club - or in general demand of the written specification or definition of "chassis".... if this has not yet been decreed - perhaps it is timely that it should..... My 2c... frats, Rosco
  2. I am at present almost mid-way through blocking down the guide coat and primer. In the following pix - I am hoping to indicate just how beneficial this process is in obtaining the best possible surface in preparation for those lovely colour coats... There are three pix here..... all of them revealing the "work" yet to be effected. In the side on pic, we can see the "low" areas along the panels.... indicated by the remainder of guide coat on the surface. Further blocking down should remove these..... as the surrounding primer is taken further down, being proud above the surface of that still underneath the guide coat. You can also see some little "nicks" in the work - very clearly indicated by the black which reports them.... The options to remedy these are either to block the entire surrounding surface down - providing there is enough primer remaining.. or to "spot prime" - or even more demanding - putty... and repeat the process back up to guide coat. It depends on the finish required.... As we very well know with this model, there will be a considerable amount of decals laid down over the colour coats.... I am not greatly concerned of tiny imperfections because of this -but I will work the primer down until the underlying 1K etch shows through (you can see that I have already "just" reached this point in some of the pix). It is extremely important not to go any further than the 1K etch - for, if that is blocked away - it will expose the substrate (casting, in this case) or more critically - putty..... and we will be in all sorts of trouble when lay down our colour coats.... If I were to be painting a model with only a few adorning decals, I would probably now have decided to respray primer to correct some of the tiny little blemishes - revealed by this blocking down of guide coat... The finish is only ever going to be as good as the work performed underneath it - this is the golden spray painter's rule.... if you want a great finish - you have to put in the work... the greatest top coat of paint cannot possibly conceal shoddy work underneath...and - you may get away with it for a short while, but I can guarantee you - as the paint fully cures out and "pulls down"... these errors will come to the surface... as i have experienced many years back in full scale auto spray painting..... Ok - pix.... I will continue with blocking my work down..... at present, there is every chance that we'll be in "colour" by the end of today - I have not seen anything which demands I go back through the preparation stages ..... yet.... frats, Rosco
  3. We have now reached a milestone stage in the body - we are in "guide coat".. For those not familiar with this, you have seen cars being driven around in it for many years - but not knowing what it was, or its purpose. It gives the appearance of a "speckled" overspray - sometimes very thin, depending on work needed to the surface beneath... the more obvious work - the thicker the coat. As the name suggests, it is a very feint coating applied over primer which allows the spray painter to "see" where work has yet to be effected. It is a sacrificial very thin coating of contrasting paint that, for the most - will be removed during the "blocking back" stage - the next in line. As it is sacrificial - any excess applied is simply waste... as it will be removed in the blocking back process... It's purpose is to reveal both the high spots, nicks, and low areas where the primer must be rubbed back to remove. Obviously, if there is insufficient primer - more needs to be sprayed on the panel.. and the guide coating/blocking back process repeated. There are areas where it is almost impossible to get into - and it is for this reason alone - that the paint used in guide coating must be compatible with whatever is to be laid down over it... I have used Tamiya semi-gloss, with X20-A acrylic thinners.... this combination affords me relative ease in blocking down through it - yet should not effect the top coat of lacquer applied over it when the underlying coats have fully cured out (Americans call this "setting up"). So - here are some pix of our project after the Tamiya fine primer has fully "set up"... and the guide coat applied in readiness for blocking down. Pix.. Next, we go to the blocking back stage..... back soon... frats, Rosco
  4. Update... wasn't happy with the grille aperture last night - another few hours cajoling and tweaking up the position and width of the aperture now has me pretty much convinced I'm as close as I'm going to get.... If you look at the pic below - you can see that I have shifted the aperture upwards... so that the top of it sits parallel with the top of the headlights. This has also reduced the thickness of the top and taken away that HJ Kingswood look. I have also extended both sides out further - removing some of the flat panel between the aperture and the headlight surrounds. This has also added in a greater angled side wall.... I added some styrene card to the base of the aperture - which allowed correct "raking" of the grille.... If you compare these final pix, with that of the proto-type reference pic above - you will more than likely see what a difference these little tweaks and adjustments have made to bring the model closer in appearance. Pix..... We are now about to go etch prime the alterations... and a couple of hours later - will have the body sprayed in fine primer.... frats, Rosco
  5. Thanks Alan... I expect that axle tube also includes suspension etc.... the non-allowed componentry being the main frame or added weight/panels of the chassis. frats, Rosco
  6. Thanks OS-62... I didn't see it, but I need to adjust the grille - it's positioned pointed upwards.... the rake is built in, and will show up when I re-position the grille to face forward... Didn't see it until I looked at the pix... Still in etch, had trouble with putty not setting hard yet.. so, primer tomorrow... a few coats, then guide coat - and hope to start blocking it down Thursday - still aiming for colour Friday. Working on S class loco's again for now.... too cold out in the garage to start on the lathe - don't like exposing it to moisture whilst it's not being worked.. frats, Rosco
  7. Ok.... some messing around today, but did manage to trim the grille opening and grille... now an "interference" fit... won't epoxy it in place until we get close to the clear coats.... after decals. I'm pretty happy with the effort - to say the least..... but, those errant slits in the two uprights which have caused the dip in the upper left horizontal will haunt me - I really should have taken it apart and corrected it.... too late now... this is one of the bugs which will annoy me every time I look at this model...... Pix.. and just as a comparison from one of the pix I have been using as reference - I don't believe I'm too far away..... by the time the grilke is painted black, and the headlights are in with the surrounds painted black with chrome trim... I believe this will be a pretty close modeling..... little bits here and there I could do - but I'd more than likely knock something else out of kilter and spend more weeks getting it back to where it is at present... Pic.. The body is now in 1K etch... I've had another fiddle with the window lines on both side of the doors... and pretty much have what I want. I have also straightened up the right lower door line along the sill.... that was annoying me... So - hopefully, this afternoon we'll be in grey primer..... tomorrow guide coat and start blocking it down ready for colour. For those not familiar with guide coat - this will be a worthy watch ..... I stole it from my 1:1 spray painting of panels - and it also works a treat in scale... Until next.. frats, Rosco
  8. Oops... forgot - LJ... in etch primer again. I didn't fire off any pix before I sprayed a coat of freshly purchased SEM 1K etch... I really was too eager so learn if this fresh paint was going to cause the underlying putty and whatever is below that to be brought to the surface again... Happy to state - it didn't.. so, we are now back to where we were two days back... decanted Tamiya fine grey primer tomorrow and a few days later - hopefully will block that down (with the above tools) and we might just get some colour on the body by the weekend..... yippee.... been a long, long time.... frats, Rosco
  9. Ok Shayne, just a few pix especially for you, but others may be interested in some of my little arsenal of tools for modeling... To start with - two pix of the two scalpels I use... pretty much Exacto blades in a #1 pen tool holder. The one at top is the tool I go to for very fine work.. scribing lines, delicate cutting away of very fine areas. It has been honed down to about 1/3rd thickness of the original blade. The shape of the cutting edge has been formed naturally by the honing process of the edge. What you can't see, is just how sharp this invaluable tool is.... it is sharper than razor sharp - one slip with this and you are through to the bone and probably into it. Not only is the main cutting edge razor sharp - but so to the back, which is also honed.... this is the edge I use for "gouging" backwards once a track has been established by the cutting edge. The side of the blade is honed as well... so that it does not grab or drag if need to go deep into a cut. You can see by the extreme point of this that it means business - and simply has to be treated with the utmost care - let one of your fingers go beyond the safety of the handle or grip... and you will cut... and deep. One thing this blade will not do for long - is hold its edge... it has to be kept regularly honed up to be effective for purpose. This is not so hard to do, because the blade is so thin - it only takes a few passes over a diamond stone and we have that amazing edge ready again for work. It will not take any abuse.. being so thin, it will either break off (which I do regularly) or blunt if pushed beyond light cuts... not that you'd want to put any weight behind this - if it snaps - you'll more than likely fall victim to whatever is left of the blade as you hand leaps forward... it is absolutely sharp, and I would not recommend anyone hone one up unless you are fully prepared to treat it with the utmost of respect... The lower scalpel is pretty much a stock Exacto blade.. but I have honed it up. I have kept the original thickness of this blade for the heavy lifting work of cutting... I hone this blade as well... but keep it thick and usually only use a 600 or 800 diamond stone .... never to the 1000 one used for my fine scalpel.. it simply won't hold the edge long enough to be effective for more than a few cuts... so, we leave this blade with a rougher face - which is more tolerant of being pressed and worked hard. Pic.. Second pic below shows the thickness of the blade... the standard one below gives contrast to that of the fine work one.... as you can see, this fine one has virtually no body at all from 2/3rds of the way along the blade... the end and tip are almost as sharp if moved sideways as it is downwards. The rear of the blade is also honed... for gouging... so - any finger which gets near any of the front of this blade will be cut... and deep... And the final scalpel I have - is an "actual" scalpel.. a medical surgeon's one.... If ever you happen to chance on getting one of these - they are simply brilliant. I don't know what the steel is, but it hold its edge for just so long... compared to probably what the rest are that come out of China.... or similar. The surgeon's scalpel is oddly shaped - but practical for many jobs. The but of this blade fits into a tool that I don't know... it is very odd shaped. My suspicion is that nothing but one of these blades will fit the tool - and the fitting of any other type of blade simply can't be used in surgery.... other than that, I'm clueless. I use this blade mainly for decals and making very sharp lines in masking tape... And before long, someone is going to ask me to put some pix up of other tools I use for bodywork and painting.... I threw most of what I use onto my desk and will explain them below the pic.... Across the top, there are 7 of my "rubbing blocks". Stainless steel backing with neoprene rubber glued to them. All of these are wrapped with various grades of wet and dry paper... sometimes I use them wet - other times, dry.. depending on what I'm blocking down. I use either side of them depending on the surface required... if it must be plate finish flat - it's the steel.. if there has to be some slight curve in a panel - I use the rubber side. I have made the thickness of the rubber so that sufficient paper can be wrapped around it... mainly to be comfortable between my fingers as I work the panel... The seven different sizes are, of course - for different sized areas... The entire process is not too far removed from an auto panel shop.. if you want a plate finish in a panel - you have to work the surface down to get it.. and you have to have an equally matching surface on your tool to achieve it... Keeping your paper clean is just as important as the tool itself... it it even get remotely clogged.. you'll gouge tram tracks into your finish... so, I usually go wet and keep it clean .... any grinding causes immediate stop of work.. and it's usually a number of paint spots which have bonded together ..... paper change.... or damage.. Next below are some of my straight edges.... I use these a lot to get straight lines. I am not ashamed to admit I often use blue tack to hold these in place... laying them onto a painted or plastic surface and expecting one hand to hold them in place whilst the other one is armed with a very sharp blade... not going to happen. so - I put a dab of blue tack over the "top" of the tool to hold it in place... not under it..... or we risk the edge coming up away from the work while we move the blade along.... You can see one of the edges I used on the tail-lights of the Torana.... it's actually painted in Floquil "rust"... I used it as a stirring stick - and the paint "stuck"... never bothered to clean it off. At one end of this tool, you can see that I have cut and ground out a notch ... the tool then laid on the bumper bar.. and this notch was used to run the horizontal lines across the top of the lights... at the other end, another notch... and this one was used when the tool was placed under the spoiler... allowing a straight edge along the bottom of the lights. I'm not afraid to make tools.. and never throw them away... I have a boxful.. from projects spanning decades... nearly all of them are stainless... or brass... they just "last". At bottom, we can see a few of my puttying tools... the smaller ends have been ground for my needs.... I particularly like the small triangle "ironing" one... it pushes putty into some very awkward places... the triangled shape of the rear of this tool allows me to "iron" in the putty and push it into shape.... being smooth, it comes away fairly easily without pulling off putty... and being so - is easily cleaned with some lacquer thinner.... On each side, are my little "icy pole" inventions..... I have containers of wooden icy pole sticks... and I use them for many things... Here, we can see that I have used some cyano to glue on some wet and dry paper... on drop, and roll the paper around the stick keeping it in close contact... when the cyano goes off - simply cut away the excess and you have a four edged sanding stick... Cutting the stick down to size to get into tight spots (like the quarter vents in the Torana) makes it easy to work in tight places... You can simply add more paper over the worn out bit.. but I usually just go find another stick.... cheap, but they work. If ever you want to get a mirror finish on paint.... go to your auto paint supplier and ask for some 2500 grit wet and dry, whilst you are there - get some 1500 and 2000 as well.... Use the rubbing blocks and work the surface back and forth.... for finite work, you can also add just a smidge of dishwashing liquid to lubricate the paper.. but it will slow the cutting process. Remember - if you "feel" or "hear" anything when you are rubbing - stop... you will be "gouging" your work... And to bring up a final mirror finish to this process... go get some Tamiya polishing compound.. I have it in two different grades.... a coarse and a fine. I like to work the finish up by hand, but it's not rare for me to fit a calico wheel to the Dremel and buff a finish up that way.... just be warned, too fast or too much pressure and you will destroy the paint.... the film of paint on a model should be wafer thin... so, we don't have a lot to work down through... Applying more paint to be able to work up a finish by applying more pressure is defective logic... you simply are only filling in precious detail... you will get the finish you want regardless of how thick the paint is... the thinner you can keep the entire process - the more difinitive will be your detail.... we are not "weather proofing" a model with a coating... it's never going to stay out in the sun and rain for weeks on end... but, it will get a workout with "marshall's" mitts and the odd "off"... so, our top coat should be fairly resilient.. not necessarily meaning "thick"... Ok.. that should do it for now... happy to answer any questions.... frats, Rosco
  10. Thanks Shayne, I spend way too much time on my own modeling... the more I seem to do, the more obsessive it becomes. I'm a long way from reaching some of the most wonderful work I see others do.. but I get the results I aim for, and usually pick up a new trick here and there in the process. I have never asked for hands on help when it comes to modeling.. doing it myself is both the challenge and the reward... but, I do put questions up when I'm stumped and take the advice given. Scalpels.... for want of a better title.... I tend to work with just two, and have made them myself.... for purpose. I'll take a pic tomorrow and show you what I do that enables me to work the blade to a better result than simply taking out a fresh Exacto. I use a number of diamond stones to both shape and sharpen my blades.... starting at 400 grit for the bulk of bringing up the shape, and finishing with no finer than 1000. Any finer than that, and I find the blade will grab and gouge.... any coarser than 600 and I find it will leave marks or stray from a straight line - just me, might not work for others. With the blade I use for fine line work - I hone the thickness down to about a third of how it was made.... I find I can then hone down the point and cutting edge to something a surgeon would love to get his hands on... but, such a fine tip and blade can't be forced... it's almost useless for cutting material and if pushed too far, will break off in the lines created (the LJ has quite a few of these in some of the tail-light areas). I don't like the large aluminium handle tool.... I find I'm too clumbsy with it... preferring the smaller one, which I find gives me greater control, and also avoids much of the errant scraping by the head and finger grip when accessing some of the deeper parts of a model. My preferred method to bring out door and window lines is to use a straight edge.. usually something I have made up previously (I have an arsenal of these little jigs and tools... each one made to overcome a problem). I very lightly run the blade along the straight edge to start a line.... then repeat it a number of times until the blade will track true. Once that is established, I turn the blade over and "drag" the point of it backwards.... holding it at a fairly low angle... so as not to "chunk" out any putty... it has to be "gouged"... or it will break way and feather up the edges. When I have the depth, I clean it up using a small piece of 800 grit wet/dry... but use it dry - wet and it will bend and simply won't follow the line or do any work in truing up the finish. For a very straight line, I'll use the corner until I can get the entire length (about 10 mm) of the piece into the slot... and run it through until I get a constant depth. Using this method, it is possible to get the very finest of lines in your work.. but, be warned - the following coats of paint will more than likely fill them in... so, I like to leave a bit of width in the cut to account for paint..... and before colour coats go on, I'll run through the primers again with this "paper-cut" method to bring the line back... my colour coats are usually very light - only enough to get full cover... and then a clear coat..... Many modelers over-do it with paint. plaster it on. Might be ok for models such as this LJ.. which is a resin cast model with not a great deal of high def detail..... but, I can assure you - if you were to plaster on heaps of paint onto a brass locomotive model for someone - costing $1k's.... .... they will be very much less than impressed with you simply covering all the very fine and expensive detail up with paint gunk.... I'll add some pix tomorrow, Shayne - and not many more words.... I can produce blades that you simply can't buy.... and I'm happy to help anyone attain them who wants to give it a whirl - you won't look back.... and all those "blunt" blades you have previously thrown away - you won't be throwing them out any longer.... If you can, and it is very difficult to do so - next time you see your GP, ask them if they can give you one of their scalpel blades... the steel in those is incredible - you won't wear it out and it will hold its edge longer than any of the commercial modeling blades..... it is wondeful steel - made in Britain. You'll have to modify it a bit to fit a holder..... but it's "doable"... I only use one of those scalpel blades for the most demanding jobs.. and never for simple cuts.... I have not used any of these medical blades on this model.. I may do so when we come to decals.. to get a "beveled" edge on the decal prior to wetting it.- this has worked in the past... Ok.... typed too much again.... frats, Rosco
  11. Ok folk, report as promised.... we literally had a little "melt down" today.... resultant of yesterday's air brushing of 1K etch.... When I went to block it down today - a lot of the putty underneath simply gave way...... it had dissolved... Fortunately, I was spared the front headlight area which I've been working pretty solid on for nearly two weeks..... phew! Ok - take note...... 1K etch - lesson for all here. I have used SEM 1K etch for many years with absolutely no ill effect on plastic or putty.... until now. My suspicion is that at some point in time, I have errantly thinned this with lacquer thinner..... instead of meths. The very same brew was used three days ago with no ill effect - but I am convinced somehow there was some lacquer thinner in it - and it presented itself at the worst possible time..after all detailing has just about been finalised..... grrrrrr So - today - drying out and blocking back, more putty... more sanding, more putty and finally - all those delicate little lines around the windows and doors... painfully picking them out with a specially made scalpel blade and many small pieces of 800 grit wet/dry - using the very corner of each little piece to clean out the scribe lines.... I'm there again, but no 1K etch today. The bottle has been emptied - contents ditched, and I'm off to Branchline hobbies tomorrow for a fresh bottle..... Not wanting to waste the day (as if)... I decided I go to the other end of the model and address the rear window surrounds - which I've never been happy with. They are too pronounced and sit very high on the model - so... more scraping, sanding and blocking down... filled with putty, and sanded down again.. then scribed and sanded out... happy with it now. Pic..... Whilst I was back there - had another go at the tail-lights. I also wanted to bring out the fine lip around the outer edge of the spoiler... took a bit of doing, but I am a lot happier with the look of the rear now. When the decals go onto the coloured model - this lip may or may not be visible... but, I've got it now just in case... a large "Torana" decal goes over the rear spoiler.. and I think "XU-1" is also visible at far right end.... Just a pic of the repair damage on the left side of the model - the right side is pretty much exactly the same.... Having my hands tied without paint - I finally decided to attack the front headlights and grille.... drilling them out then cajoling away with a scalpel and finally using needle files to bring them to size..... few pix.... by golly, this little car looks "hungry". One thing I have noticed all week, with working on the headlight surrounds - this model could be one of many. Very minor little rubs here and there brought many different cars to mind... tonight, I started looking at the front without grille as "ponyish"... maybe I've been working on this too long.... starting to joust at windmills... Pix... And now, I'm guessing "someone" might be interested to see the brass grille I made fitted up.... I had a bit of a play with it, and it simply brought joy to my eyes...... well worth the effort and time put into it - but, I'm saving the pic for now.... I'll post this up tomorrow before I etch prime the repair areas again. Ok, back with more tomorrow.. we're getting there - back on schedule for colour by the end of this week.... then the fun begins.. frats, Rosco
  12. Don't be nervous about starting a thread, OS-62..... questions - if you want to know something, the only way you are going to get answers is to ask them... no such thing as a stupid one, not asking it is the stupid bit... I too have a couple of Slot-It chassis - not sure why I bought them, one of them was more likely because the entire running chassis was cheaper than buying the bits ... so, anything left over was going to be a bonus... Don't be afraid to have a go at scratch building a chassis out of brass and piano wire - it really isn't as hard or difficult as many believe it to be... making or purchasing a building board is the key to it.... once you can lay out the parts - it's only a matter of setting down to solder them together... and - you can have any chassis you want, no restriction by what is on the market or available through other models... like this little LJ - my chassis will be custom made for the body... as you will see in a short time. I'm a little more lucky than many, I can also make my own wheels.. to fit both the tyres I have chosen, and the great inserts which come with the Munter kit - they are perfect for the LJ build. It is going to pain me not to be able to use them on the LC XU-1... that car ran with steelies.. so, I'll have to do a search for 13" steelies with five studs... Looking forward to your getting the kit, OS-62... don't expect it to be a quick build... unless that's all you want and simply want to get it on a track... I prefer to think of myself as a modeler... more than a pilot, driver or any operative in the many hobbies I have.. I enjoy modeling, and take great joy and pride in the models I produce.. Ok... back over to you. Will be back soon with tonight's report to the thread...... we have had a "disaster"... full explanation and cause soon... lesson to be learned for those yet to suffer this issue... frats, Rosco
  13. Very much looking forward to watching your build, OS-62...... will you start up your own thread?.. more than welcome to come on board in this one if you would prefer.... As for the chrome - I'm going with this Molotow for now.... I do have the foil (bought for a 1/25th scale EK Holden kit), but haven't used it. From all accounts, the Molotow will bring satisfying results. I may yet order in the 30 ml refill and choose to mask up and airbrush instead of using the marker pen.... I have learned that this stuff can't be messed with. It's a "one application" and leave for 24 to 48 hours to cure out. Apparently, it's almost impossible to mark or damage after it has fully set.... and it can't be top-coated.... apparently, doesn't need it - so, it won't be until the top coats have been applied to the model before I add chrome... Waiting for paint to cure out at present... will let it sit for a day or so before blocking down..... might start work on putting the lathe back together today - the chassis is next, and I need wheels..... for the Escort/Cortina MJK tyres which will be a close match. Please keep us updated with your LJ when it arrives.. love to see some pix of the casting before you start work... frats, Rosco
  14. Thanks Chris, your words bring back my lagging memory of a 1/24 Corvette I had as a 12 year old - it was a wreck, and I purchased it from a school colleague for the princely sum of $1.... the motor ran, but almost nothing else was any good....... and, of course - too large for the local kids' 1/32 Scalextric layouts... I recall the threaded front axle now, and believe the rear one was likewise... thanks for bringing this back to me... All the same, you work is exceptional - and I very much hope to mimmick it in my chassis builds... sadly, to a lesser degree than your ability... frats, Rosco
  15. That's my take on it, Vinno...... those headlights were throwing me for quite a while - nothing I could do with the body seemed to rectify the look..... until I realised it was them, and not the body. It's close - I may nudge it a bit more once the primer coats go on... but it will be just a tweak here and there. The rest of the body is more deserving of work than going much further with this area. I am hoping to have another etch coat over the putty today - and primer tomorrow.... still aiming for colour coats by the end of the week.... then we'll start on the chassis... pre-cursored by putting the lathe back together and making up new wheels for the revised tyres... frats, Rosco
  16. Great work, Chris - I particularly like the nylon guide with grub retaining screw, not to mention the bullet proof connections.... KISS principle, so simple - but so effective. Can you kindly tell me what the nut on the end of the front axle tube is for?.... I do like your motor mount, slotted hole at the drive end and a simple retaining plate with screw - again, simple - but ever so practical. frats, Rosco
  17. Couldn't live with those front guards... there simply wasn't enough hood over the lights.... so, stripped it back again and built them up more. I believe I'm getting pretty close now... there may yet be a tiny bit more to be gained in bringing them closer to proto - but I'm starting to struggle with finding just "where" to add or subtract.... without being under the mag-light... my eyechronometers are pretty happy with what they see... but, under the scope - all sorts of issues show up.... End of the day - I'm not going to run it on the track or in a jewel case looking at it through a magnifying lens...... perhaps it's "time" Also, the etch coat showed up a lot more flaws in the rest of the body than I had expected... so - New Year's Day was spent entirely on the front, right side and rear of the model.... well, more to come tonight after dinner... left side... I have had a fiddle with the rear tail-lights.. sort of nearly got to where want with these for now.. made a blunder with the size of one of them - fix that before we go back into the paint shop.. Progress pix.... narrative above will explain all five successive pix... Back tomorrow with more... frats, Rosco
  18. Your usual amazing work, Chris...... I'm guessing the golf course is missing you of late..... I chose the same "fantasy" colour scheme for a Slot-It GT40 a couple of years back. I happened on the scheme after purchasing some "Mothers" car wax..... gold with two white stripes looked really good on the can... so my undecorated Slot-It kit was "trialed".. I may yet use the livery again... The gold I used was a 75-25 blend of both Tamiya "Titan gold" and "Titanium silver" (X-31 & X-32), the white was Tamiya white (X-2) and I clear coated with Tamiya (X-22) thinned with lacquer thinners. The chassis was kit Slot-It, but I changed out the motor, gears and fitted the suspension kit. Your chassis work is to dream for, Chris..... and ditto the comments on those wheels - superb for the T-70..... frats, Rosco
  19. As promised - pix in khaki etch primer. We can now see where work is to be done.. the etch primer reveals some of the voids and areas which need further work. It's a bit hard to see this when the contrasting shades of putty, cast resin and previous sanded down primer draws attention away from detail or blemishes... Primer will go on next, then we'll start work on correcting the flaws.... hopefully, by the end of next week - we'll be in a solid Radiant red colour - ready for decals. Pix.....Australian Army livery of the LJ XU-1... The benefit of metho based etch primer, along with it not being aggressive on putties... is that it dries very quickly - a light coat can be primed in as little as 30 minutes after spraying... Ok.. back later with some more progress.. frats, Rosco
  20. OS-62..... I bought a German product I am yet to try... saving it for this build. It's called "Liquid Chrome" and is made by Molotow. The one I bought has a 2 mm nib and there is a ball or something similar inside to agitate whatever is in there. From what I read, it's probably about as close to chrome as I am going to get without either constructing an electro-plating set up or rubbing chrome film on. I am hoping that this stuff works - I paid a hefty price for it... and will report here once I have reached that part of the build. The product is available in a number of differing nib sizes - I chose 2 mm, being somewhere mid-range between the bumper bars and the stainless trim around headlights, grille and such... frats, Rosco
  21. Just about to reach another milestone in the build.... paint. I was never happy with the front of this model... the headlights are positioned too far forward and the surrounds are grossly over-sized and poorly shaped.... I have spent over a week on this alone.. and still not 100% happy with my efforts. Over that week, I have had the front of my LJ looking like so many different cars.. from a Cortina, HJ Kingswood and to a Hillman Hunter - there really isn't much difference in any of these models from the LJ... subtle little changes, but they make a huge difference for anyone who has intimate recall of said vehicles. I simply couldn't get the "hooded" look of the front of the guards over the headlights.. and it took a quite a few goes until I realised it was the position of the headlights themselves which continually put me into error... I am pretty much resolved that this is probably as close as I will get - without spending another week or more to get some miniscule discrepancies out of the result... I will now drill out and ream the headlights - having them set much further inside the surrounds - this will make a huge difference to the look of the model. Final pix before I took it out to the spray booth this evening and laid down a good number of 1K etch coats.... doing this, I find - prevent the Tamiya fine putty from being attacked by the following solvent based primer coats... I use a model railway etch called "Steam Era Models - grey etch".. metho based, very fine pigment... no pix of it in etch, but they will come tomorrow. As previously stated - I picked out the detail in the rear tail-light area, and wasn't happy with the direction my scalpel was drawn... it resulted in ugly lines which were nowhere near straight... Putty wasn't giving me the result I wanted, so I bit the bullet and drilled/filed out the tail-lights then made up some replacement lenses from styrene card... the indicator lenses were salvageable and I'm pretty happy with the end result... by the time the etch and primer coats go on and are sanded down - it should come up pretty reasonable... We can see here that the original huge rear number plate has been removed and just a small flat section has been provided - if you look at Brock's Bathurst car, you'll see that this is a pretty close match. I believe I'm getting close to what I want out of this model... I have made considerable changes to the front section, which was not originally planned. I am yet to cut and gouge out the cast in grille - and fit the brass replacement. I will do this after the brass one has been cleaned and coated in zinc chromate (which I still have a little left for these purposes). And finally, here is the replacement grille laying in front of the cast one.. I believe this will make a more lifelike model... The model sits in karhi green tonight (anyone like to see an LJ XU-1 in drab matt army colour?).... maybe put up a pic tomorrow.. looks "weird".. Until next, frats, Rosco
  22. I have now ordered three new Badger airbrushes.... through Amazon.com...this way, you seem to dodge the terrible taxes and shipping fees. Strangely, they are going to arrive in reverse order to what was purchased... I have just been informed that the first one has now been shipped and not expected for delivery until early February... the last one I purchased is due to arrive 5th January... I do appreciate that stock may not be readily on hand to ship through their international outlet.... but I also understand that when the orders were placed, the delivery dates were a lot earlier than now forecast... As long as they get here - I'll be happy.... frats, Rosco
  23. 19 entrants - looking promising for a full field... frats, Rosco
  24. It may be possible to clear coat over the floor sealant, Phil..... I have tried to seal Patto's decals with a number of different options now, and all of them have a reaction with either the decal or the ink.... so, I'll go with the recommended floor sealant... and maybe try to overcoat that with a lacquer clear coat.... which can be "worked". frats, Rosco
  25. Ok folk, Wasn't happy with first grille - 0.42 mm brass is too thick. Not to mention, when I was doing my final file/sand - four of the verticals inside the grille fell out... I got them all back in, but it's a mongrel of a job to do... fiddly as all heck. I think in my mind then, I was already working on revision 1 - and a better way of cutting the parts and assembling them.. I found some 0.25 mm brass shim sheet and decided I'd have a go at cutting the 12 pieces needed out of that. This time, I decided that I'd fit the verticals in from the rear. The issue with doing so from the front is that the excess has to be sanded off - and any of these bars which did not get soldered properly to the horizontals will simply fall out when the main body is removed.... which I found out. So - some pix... Here is the 0.25 mm brass shim marked out through some engineer's "blue". I have used a jeweller's saw to slit the verticals. In future, should I ever do this again - I will be more precise with the slits. It was during assembly that I realised some of them weren't straight - and I had to fit them into a vice and re-slit them. All but two were rectified. As you will see in later pix, two of them simply refused to go in where needed, resulting in the upper horizontal not running parallel with the rest in two places. I am not going to disassemble this to correct it, and will have to live with it - the next one will be more accurate. We have cut out the 12 parts. You can see that I have left the excess on the front of the horizontals - this is for positioning into slits in a wooden jig I made... to get the rake of the grille correct. In this pic, we can see the horizontals fitted into the slits of the jig.... and the depth of the slits to set the rake... And here we have the assembled grill - complete with Holden badge. It was a bit tricky to make that little piece up. I ended up using a pair of surgical clamp pliers to hold it whilst I profiled the shape. It is angled back each side from centre and there is a slight bevel on all edges. Getting it to solder in place took considerable time, effort and patience - I don't know ho many times I re-positioned it, only to find it wasn't either centre, square on to the front of the model or set far enough back.. but, I got there... And here we have the original and revision 1... I believe it well worth the effort to use the 1/4 mm shim sheet.... I'm pretty happy with the result, but disappointed in those two upper sections not being parallel to the other horizontals.... next time... To change ends of the model - I am re-working the rear... I have re-profiled the rear number plate and removed the front one altogether - as was the case with PB's Bathurst car. I will fill those unsightly gouges I put into the tail-lights somewhat with thinned down putty.. and straighten them up. This will leave them picked out, but not as deep. I am hoping to paint around the trim of these with as close a paint as I can get to chrome... I have also started work on the front - it's not quite right.... mainly the height of the bonnet and guards at front... and also the headlight surround areas... I have filed and sanded these down and am struggling to get the exact profile using putty.. I'll get close, but I fear the casting has the surrounds set too far forward to get the slightly "hooded" look over the headlights ... I should get a lot closer than the casting... but don't believe I'll get exact to the proto-type.. and I really don't want to make up a new "face" to fit.... I believe the grille and these little "adjustments" will bring the model pretty close to proto - but any Torana owner/enthusiast will more than likely pick my failures... So, this model is about to go into its second year on my workbench... from experience, whether it's a locomotive or slot car - my scratch building seems to take me around three months of actual work... we haven't got near the chassis yet - my lathe still awaits attention to fit the replacement spindle bearings... maybe when I get colour onto the body - we'll go to the lathe next... although I have two locomotives on my bench awaiting attention as well.... Don't retire, folk - you won't have time to spare..... frats, Rosco
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