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rosco01

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Posts posted by rosco01


  1. 1 hour ago, Shaynus said:

    So, when is full scale wheel for sale production for kicking in??;)

    Hmmmm.... Shayne - if you saw the work that goes into producing the wheels... not to mention wheels #1 through #25.... some of the earlier ones taking more than one day to make each..... well..... I suppose I could make them... but, no-one could afford me.......... even at poverty hourly rates.... 

     

    I have 24 wheels looking at me each time I go into my spare parts box.. that's enough for six models. Most of them are fairly good.. there are about 5 or 6 which I would never fit to a model.. but as a static display - they'd be fine... 

    I made an awful lot of mistakes... as I do when I learn something new... but I believe I have wheels for models I have not even considered yet.... along with the purchased Slot-It ones that are now surplus to this build... and tyres... 

    So, my question to you is...... when are you going into production?.... it's a part of this great hobby which really begs more people to have a go at than have yet to consider it.

    Aside from the lathe.... there are only a few lathe tools necessary for turning up reasonable wheels like this.... two lathe cutting tools, one centering drill bit, two drill bits and one M2 tapping bit..... plus the aluminium rod.

     

    However, I also appreciate that in my soon to be 11 years of retirement, I have become very selfish - and forget that people simply don't have days on end to while away on what becomes obsessive demand.... 

     

    I am looking forward now to starting the chassis build... the motor/axle bracket made last year will make a re-appearance... and I will finally get to use the scratch builder's jig from the PSM.... 

     

    The body and these wheels were always going to take me a long time to get up for the project - the next stages will go very fast in comparison... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  2. Ok folk.... wheels - but first... lathe, what a difference these angular contact bearings have made to my lathe.... it is far more accurate now than it has ever been.

    I backed off the pre-load before starting on wheels today.. and re-set it... the bearings now have about 4 hours running on them, and I believe they are now bed in... 

    So, armed with access to this wonderful machine, I set off to make some new wheels for the tyres I believe are a much closer scale size than any of the others I have tried.

    For those who want specs.. these are what I have come up with, and it all works well together.

    The tyres are MJK 4272.

    The wheel specs are -

    overall rim diameter - 14.2 mm (shown as reference "E")

    rim diameter - 11.8 mm (C)

    Overall rim width (minus hub) - 7.0 mm (D)

    Step width - 3.0 mm (F)

    Rim width each side of step - 2.0 mm 

    Hub diameter - 5.0 mm

    Hub width - 3.0 mm

    Insert recess diameter - 10.75 mm

    Insert recess depth - 3.25 mm

    Ok.. some pix... 

     

    1004-26-wheel-mail.jpg

     

    It annoys me no end, to see wheels that have inserts (centres) that are not "centred".. but wobble.... I decided that with all the detail I am putting into this model, I'd try something new to centre the insert in the wheel.... 

    In the pic below, you can see that I have marked out the very centre of the insert using dividers.. 

     

    1001-dividers-insert-mail.jpg

     

    I then used a pin vice and starting with a 0.5 mm drill bit... drilled through the absolute centre.

    I worked the drill bit sizes up until I got to a #54 (1.4 mm) drill bit.. and then tapped the hole with a 10BA tap.....

     

    1001-dividers-insert-mail.jpg

     

    I was then able to fit the tap with insert fixed into the keyless chuck of my  little Dremel... I'd be lost without this amazing tool.

    Spinning the machine over at the lowest speed, and using one of the rubbing blocks bound with 360 grit wet/dry.. I "turned" down the insert until I came up on the very edge of the bevel part of the insert..

     

    1002-10-BA-tapped-mail.jpg

     

    The "bevel" came up at exactly at 10.75 mm..... and the reason I set that measurement for the recess in the wheel.... 

     

    1003-fitted-mail.jpg

     

    1005-insert-mai.jpg

     

    In the next pic, you can see that the bevel of the insert flows out nicely onto the inner rim... and I believe this will look great when I have painted the centre of the spokes in chrome.. with the surrounding part of the insert in black..... as was these amazing wheels chosen by the HDT for the LJ.... 

     

    1006-insert-rim-mail.jpg

     

    And......just as a bit of a tease... I simply had to do this... 

    Not sure where the ride height will be until I design and build the chassis - but I suspect the rear wheels/tyres will fit in somewhere around this.... 

    Excuse the yet to be compounded clear coat.... you can see that it was applied "copulously"... still pulling down, then we compound and start work with Patto's decals of PB's Bathurst winning LJ XU-1... I have high hopes for this model.


    Few pix... just messing around..

     

    1007-ride-height-mail.jpg

     

    And, as a visual contrast - the difference between the wheels and tyres I have swapped to - with the previous pair on the right hand of the axle.... 

    I do very much like the look of the smaller and narrower tyre.... it is yet to be trued down with the Tire Razor (sp) which will take a fair bit more out of the diameter and footprint width.

     

     

    1008-rear-mail.jpg

     

    Ok.. that's if for a bit now.... two more wheels and inserts to do, then we can start work on the chassis...

    I have dreamed up a different approach to the front axle.... all will be revealed as the build continues...

     

    Until next...

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 2

  3. Hi folk,

    more testing.. 

    But first - lathe..... as far as I can tell, I am now ready to go with turning wheels for the LJ.

    I set the lathe up today and took a test cut.... by golly, the old bearings and pre-load must have been way out... I'm a bit puzzled as to how I got the results I did... 

    From the first cut - I knew..... this machine has never cut like it does now.... I can take such fine cuts that the material simply floats in the air...suspended, it's that fine.. and the finish of the cut is simply lovely.. still get the odd gouge here and there, my feed rate/speed/cut are nowhere near perfect.. but, I turned down some ali rod that was used on the last wheel I turned before the big replacement... then did a couple of passes with the HSS finishing tool I made..... pretty happy.. Pic....

     

    1001-first-turn-new-bearings-mail.jpg

     

    I'll now set about writing down the specs for the new wheels - to fit the MJK Cortina/Escort tyres... hopefully, this time next week - we'll have four wheels.... with tyres fitted... and maybe even inserts... 

     

    So - further to the above re floor polish, decals and lacquer paint... I have absolutely no qualm about spraying Tamiya clear lacquer over floor polish... 

    I sprayed floor polish over the decals of the second Shadow today... left it one hour, then sprayed some of the decanted TS-13 plus a little more lacquer thinners mixed in...

    I used the Patriot this time to spray - and it is just as lovely as the others.... I'm not good yet at triggering the paint.. but have found I can simply hold down the trigger and keep the air continuous.. and am learning to pull back the trigger for paint flow.... fan width... and shutting it off again at the end of the stroke... all the time, keeping the trigger "down" ... never going to run out of air - with 14 cfm supply at hand.... 

    Here is a pic of the Shadow - just after it was sprayed with lacquer clear coat.. the floor polish may have been "just" a little on the wet side... but I got impatient.. as I do, sometimes.... pic..

     

    1502-lacquer-clear-over-floor-polish-mai

     

    Lighting does not really do the finish justice.... you can see some parts of it where the reflection reveals just how good this paint is, using an airbrush... it "floods" on beautifully and flows out even better... I believe I'm now converted for using lacquer as a final top coat... 

     

    So, Mr. Impatience... got the better of me.... raced inside and grabbed the LJ... didn't wash it, clean it... just dusted it off.. and sprayed two light coats of the lacquer clear directly over the compounded acrylic.... absolutely no issue either... well, not with the paint or reaction.. but, in my haste - just one "hair" found its way onto the roof.... and "bazingo!"... I now have a hair to compound out... 

    Reality is, this was always going to be a test run... the coat is very thin.. just two passes.... 

    PIc was taken less than 30 seconds after the second pass.. you can see it is still wet.... 

    As it is now, it has pulled down beautifully... but, I'll compound it tomorrow and apply another coat of lacquer clear... then - we look to Patto's decals... maybe a compound before that... but it shouldn't need much of one.... 

    I have every confidence now that Tamiya TS-13 can be applied over the Tamiya acrylic solids... 

    Pic...

    1501-lacquer-clear-over-acrylic-mail.jpg

     

    You can clearly see "that" hair..... if I'd been my usual nervous "Myrtle".. I'd have washed, blown dried and air dusted this before spraying it... not to mention mounting it on a stand to spray...

    I simply grabbed it, raced it out to the booth in the garage... and "shot" paint... 

     

    Ok... wheels tomorrow - and I will compound this clear coat on the LJ.. and respray - with all the care and attention that should have been applied today... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 2

  4. Ok folk, 

    Update on testing paint, decals and floor polish... 

    I'll leave the locomotive body alone from here for now.. and just post on results from the Scalextric shadow. One exception, I didn't have one issue pop up with over-coating Tamiya acrylic with Tamiya clear coat with lacquer thinners... in fact, I'm impressed - it was able to be handled within two hours of "flooding" the acrylic with lacquer based clear.... 

     

    Next up - overcoating Pascoe's self-shining floor polish with lacquer.... same deal - no reaction, and the clear coat went off just as fast as that applied to the loco body...  

    At the same time, over-coating the compounded side of the floor polish had exactly the same response - nothing... 

    So... win, win, win... I do know, I can't clear coat Patto's decals with lacquer ... or even Tamiya acrylic clear coat... but the self-shining floor polish won't affect them, and I now know the acyrlic or lacquer won't affect the floor polish... 

     

    Just a couple of pix - first up, the left side of the Shadow - previously coated with floor polish then compounded with Tamiya fine compounding polish... we see here that the lacquer based clear coat over the top of the compounded floor polish suffered no reaction at all... not a good pic, but the gloss factor is even greater than the floor polish gloss..... 

    1401-Shadow-mail.jpg

     

    Second pic is a bit of a close up on the decals..... these were bare under the floor polish, then compounded - but not washed..... the lacquer clear was sprayed (flooded even) over them to see if there was going to be a reaction... there wasn't... 

     

    Pic....

     

    1402-Shadow-decal-mail.jpg

     

     

    I am further happy to report, the lathe is back together and about to be checked for accuracy - so, hope to make a start on the LJ chassis wheels.... very soon... watch this space...

     

    Next, and this is totally off topic, but I don't want to start a new thread which will be very short lived.... airbrushes...

    Here is a pic of my five airbrushes.. the last one came in just a couple of days ago. 

    They are all Badger brushes, the one at the bottom of the pic is my faithful little 200 syphon brush... I have used this brush for 39 years... it must have had ten gallons of paint go through it by now, and has been used from everything between very fine misting of weathering.. right up to a 2" fan with auto paint when i sprayed the plenum chamber intake grille of my 1:1 scale EK Holden... in all that time, I have only had to replace one needle and one tip.... it has been an amazing brush.

    Few pix... 

    At top, the Patriot 105

    Second from top, Arrow - which is almost an exact duplication of the Patriot - but has a much smaller paint cup for getting into tight places.

    Both these brushes have a 0.5 mm needle/tip set..

    The middle brush is probably going to become my favorite.. it's the 360... just such a versatile brush. I can be used as a gravity fed or syphon bottle brush.. 

    The barrel can be rotated through 360 degrees, so you can just about put either the paint cup or bottle where you want when forced to work in a confined space.

    It has a 0.8 mm needle/tip set.. but I used this spraying the very thin floor polish yesterday - and it was capable of being able to spray a very fine line, for the larger needle/tip size..

    Next down, is the Rolls-Royce of airbrushes... the Sotar (Stare Of The Art Results - acronym).

    It has additional features which allow the very fine setting of the amount of needle retraction - and it is scaled to 0.01 mm increments... so that exacting settings can be returned to for various delicate jobs.... 
    I have not used this brush yet... but am very keen to load it up with some thin paint and see just how fine it can spray at... it has a very fine 0.21 mm needle/tip... 

     

    And at the bottom - we have my faithful little 200.. which will not be used much from now on... maybe for larger jobs ... but I doubt that it will get much of a go now that the newer brushes have arrived.

    I am including a pic of the front of these brushes as well.. and a close-up of the Sotar brush... that needle is certainly very much exposed - it will demand great care in use.

    I am amazed at the incredible machining of this set... the spacing around the needle in the tip is exact... amazing for such a small needle... 

     

    Pix...

     

    1201-airbrushes-mail.jpg

     

    1202-tips-mail.jpg

     

    1203-SOTAR-tip-mail.jpg

     

    And to close off this post... I decanted the remainder out of some Tamiya TS-13 lacquer clear coat aerosol today... and it is now in a 30 ml bottle ready for use.... 

    It stinks to high heaven.. but I am a firm believer that this lacquer paint will outlive any acrylic in the rigors of slot car use... as Phil has laid testament to... 

     

    1301-TS-13-decanted-mail.jpg

     

    Ok, folk - that will be it for a little while now - work will start on turning the LJ wheels very shortly - then I can settle in to building a chassis for it.... with the added side distraction of clear-coating and applying decals to it.... 

     

    Until next..

     

    frats,

    Rosco

     


  5. All my US orders have now arrived.. no complaints.

    However, I was offered a 2 month free trial of Amazon prime, which I took.... and shipping was express and free... 

    All arrived safely, but I can't explain why two of the six packages came via Fastway - and the others came via AusPost... 

    The last package arrived today - two packs of model locomotive axle gear sets.. AusPost.

     

    I have two more to come, one from a forum member here who is kindly sending me a couple of things.. and a Tamiya pack of the three polishing compounds plus rubbing pads and polishing cloths ($35 AUS, shipped if anyone is intersted).

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  6. Thanks Vinno - I have some testing to do today - and will report on my LJ thread..

    If I don't get any satisfaction with what I plan - I'll try to hand paint over Patto's decals with Tamiya clear acrylic... and then overcoat with clear lacquer using the airbrush... 

    There must be something in the ink Patto is using which makes it vulnerable to the solvents in paint.... 
    I am having success using the Pascoe's floor polish over them.... with an airbrush.... it's a thin as all heck, and will flood very easily... more playing around with the process today.

     

    Thanks for your reply - you have far more experience and satisfaction in results than me.. I take your advice with great respect and appreciation...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  7. Bump.....

    Which resin did you use Grant....? 

    Have you produced any more castings since the last post in this thread?

     

    I have quite a number of little model railway pieces I want to take molds of in Pinkysil.... and will need resin to make the castings.... 

    Shrinkage will be a major issue, so too will flexibility.... some of these intended castings are bogie side-frames which have to ride out the rigors of axles twisting a tiny bit as the bogie flexes going around curves...I also need to drill out the castings and fit delrin bearings into the holes.... 

     

    Thanks for any info.... 

    frats,

    Rosco


  8. Just on the off chance - have you sprayed Tamiya aerosol clear lacquer over Patto's decals?.. and, if so - did you have issue with them crinkling?

    My bad - just read your OP and know you used Patto's..... any issues with wrinkling or crinkling?.... or, is there a trick to laying down lacquer over them...?

    frats,

    Rosco


  9. Thanks Vinno - my suspicion verified.... 

    Go a little careful when warming up aerosol paint. One chap from our r/c model aeroplane club used a "Birko" to heat a can of paint to get a mirror finish on a pylon racing plane... it exploded in his face and blinded him permanently in one eye.... no model is worthy of risking that happen.

    I prefer my decant and air-brush method.. I have greater control over the result... although the current issue with Tamiya red acrylic would suggest otherwise..

     

    Thanks for the reply... and confirmation...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  10. Thanks again, OS-62..... it's not my ability, it's the way I've spoiled myself in getting the wonderful tools I have... and a little bit of patience in learning how to use them... 

    Ok folk, learned a bit more..... the self-shining floor polish recommended by Patto to use over his decals is "workable"... I couldn't help myself... 

    I polished one side of the Shadow with a small wadding of cotton wool and some Tamiya fine polishing compound.... 

    Even after quite a bit of rubbing, I was unable to break through the floor polish.... so - it's a lot tougher and resilient that one might have perceived.... surely, if people can walk on it for a couple of months - it can stand up to a bit of rough  house handling on a slot car.. right?

    I decided I'd only do half of the model.. so that tomorrow, when come to spray lacquer clear over the entire model - I will be able to see if the lacquer attacks the floor polish AND also if there is going to be an issue with oil or silicone etc in the Tamiya compound..... 

    Pix.... 

    We can see in this pic that the coating of floor wax has fully flowed out over the bare plastic, but it has not done so on the very sad decals... this is the "compounded" side... 

    003-floor-polish-decal-compounded-mail.j

     

    In this pic, we can see that the floor polish has responded well to being compounded - and we can further see that it has not broken through - or there would be a "joint" mid way across the front of the model.

     

    004-floor-polish-decal-compounded-lhs-ma

     

    I believe, to get a gloss finish over the decals as well.... I should have waited an hour, and applied a second coat.. or maybe even a third.... 

    But, we'll know tomorrow after spraying a clear coat whether that is going to remedy the "satin" finish over very poor decals... 

     

    Until next....

     

    frats,

    Rosco

     

     

    • Like 1

  11. 1 hour ago, Vinno said:

     I think it was Tamiya TS34 Camel Yellow

    From the product code - I believe it to be an aerosol, Vinno....?

    I am having success with decanting from aerosols into a glass beaker, then allowing it to come up to ambient temperature (takes ages). It can then be bottled and used in an airbrush - with or without further thinning. But, if thinners are needed - I have found it is only the lacquer thinners which will work with it... so, I'm guessing the TS range of Tamiya paints are lacquer..... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  12. Ok folk,

    as promised..... a little more on paint.

    Just before I start on today's spray experiments..... a pic of the LJ taken out in the daylight... If I can get this result out of the finished model after it is decaled and clear coated - I'll be pretty happy.... 

    I'm not sure about the Tamiya compound polish yet.... whether there is any oil in it.... if so, I'll have to give the body a wash somehow without threatening the acrylic paint... 
    I know this paint will wash off with water.. I can't use Metho... and I'm pretty much convinced that none of the other cleaners I have will not attack the paint.

    Has anyone successfully washed a Tamiya acrylic paint finish after it has cured out  - without any damage to the paint?... keen to learn, yeah or neah.

    Pic....

     

    6003-compounded-mail.jpg

     

    And here we have the chopped off rear end of a Lima VR S class..... nothing special was done to this prior to painting.... except a wash in warm soapy water and an air dry.

    I then mixed up some SEM 1K etch and sprayed half a dozen light coats of it onto the body... first time using the Badger 360 double action gun.. there's a huge crack in the body - I am keen to watch what happens as these coats go down in succession... 

     

    6001-S-etch-prime-mai.jpg

     

    6002-S-etch-prime-mail.jpg

     

    I waited no more than an hour - then hit it with Tamiya acrylic X-7..... again, I hate spraying red - did I ever mention this?....... 

    I had to apply probably 20 passes, to get enough build to give it full cover from the primer.... you can see quite clearly here just how "deep" the paint film is.

    If it goes the same way as the LJ.... it will pull down a heck of a lot... there is heaps of thinners in this paint mix... but, it's only 1:1.... and if I use any less thinners - it is too thick to lay down a gloss coat..... I could go thinner, but I don't have a month out there in the garage to get one single solid coat on it....... I have a very strong dislike for spraying red...... 

     

    Pic...

     

    6004-S-colour-mail.jpg

     

    In another experiment, I decanted some Pascoe's self shining floor polish - as recommended by Patto for sealing his decals. I have used this on the caravan floor many times, but only by squirting it from the bottle on the floor and then spreading it evenly to dry using a cloth... this is the first time I have sprayed it from an airbrush... 

    It was unthinned and came out of the brush very fluently.... I used a mix of hot water and cloudy ammonia to clean up my gear afterwards... 

    This little car is one of two Scalextric UOP Shadows that we bought around 1980, from the then Children's Palace in  Footscray. They are my go to cars when children come to play slot cars...... almost indestructible - but the rear spoiler does pop off in extreme "events".... they have been wonderful cars... and cost only $19.95 at the time.... I've certainly had my value out of them. They got the "rosco" treatment a few years back, and run better than they did new.... 

    They have not been loved at all.... body-wise... and as you can see, what remains of the decals is well beyond use by date..... those with a keen eye, and attention to detail will note use of both Ferrai and Ford decals... they were in the box, and we plastered all of them on both cars.. no idea of the contradiction... 

     

    I will let this settle now, and spray a coat of Tamiya clear lacquer over it... I am keen to note if it attacks the floor polish.... just playing... not a lot to loose...... the model could do with a freshen up regardless..... 

     

    6005-Shadow-floor-shine-mail.jpg

     

    Ok..... tomorrow, it's lathe day..... and a coat of Tamiya clear lacquer over the S class acrylic.... we'll see what comes of it pretty quickly I imagine.... 

    I may lay down a Patto "Marlboro" decal over that.... and then the suggested floor polish... and then an acrylic clear.... all fun, but a learning curve... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

     

     

    • Like 1

  13. Thanks OS-62... came up a lot better than first impression after spraying.
    I am playing around with paint at present..... a cut up piece of a locomotive body - so far, 1K etch and Tamiya red acrylic... all good so far - pix later.

    Plus - first time I have ever used a double action airbrush.... I have three now, and one more to come.... all Badger.

    I used the 360 this time.... 0.8 mm needle... paint was very thin (again).. but I got there in the end.

    Not used to pulling back on the trigger and had a few runs... got lazy and just kept the trigger down and flow set at the one position - not what is supposed to be, but until I get used to it... it worked... 

    Oh, by the way - Tamiya acrylic - I knew there was something aggressive in it.... it's "N-propanol" and Butyl-alcohol"... the propanol and butyl, I believe would be the aggressive elements which are upsetting Patto's decals..... know more when I have time to look up those chemicals... 

     

    Back later with some "loco" pix.... will spray the lacquer clear coat over it tomorrow... the acrylic deserves at least one day to set up.... did I ever mention I don't like spraying red paint?..... if not - consider it "mentioned".. sure it won't be the last time....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  14. Certainly, Shayne.... I have a cut-up section of locomotive I'll spray today.... put some pix up and show the forum the results.... 

    I'll keep it pretty fresh - primer/acrylic colour/lacquer clear..... that way, if anything is going to muck up - the fresh paint should give me a pretty early indication.

    (Postie hasn't hit my inbox yet... let you know when he does).

    frats,

    Rosco


  15. On 6/25/2018 at 5:44 PM, mattcrackers said:

    I have tried to polish out glue marks before Bram, but that didn't go so well.

     

    Phil was getting onto the screen when he had time John, think he has a few clear items to make etc.

     

    Don't think I can add any more decals then what's on the car at the moment, apart from on the dash, still looking for a pic regarding the speedos etc.

     

    I still have to glue everything else in place and find the screw that mounts the front end, fell into neverland on the floor some time back.

    If it's of any help, Matt...... providing your screw isn't brass........  I use a sneaky little device called a magnet to find steel bits trapped in the weave of the carpet under me in this room...

    frats,

    Rosco


  16. 1 hour ago, kalbfellp said:

    What sort of Lacquer are you talking about, Old school nitrocellulose lacquer or modern acrylic lacquer?

    Chances are that either will cause the Tamiya model paint to wrinkle as the thinners is “ hot” compared to the model paint.

    Best to use only the same clear as the base paint.

    Further to you reply, Phil....... 

    To the very best of my understanding, drawn on a number of decades messing with paint - there is an abundant contrast in terminology between modeling, and automotive paint.... and it should have been nipped in the bud before it became common-speak... 

    Automotive acrylic is in fact, a lacquer.... using ketone, acetone, dio-sol and tolulene..... or combinations of any of these as the thinners for the body to be able to be sprayed... they are aggressive and will damage any paint system which is vulnerable to these chemicals..... enamels, or water based acrylics (like house paint). 

     

    Modeling acrylic, is supposed to be water based.... and should not harm any substrate or previous coating..... 

    Modeling lacquer, contains far less aggressive solvents than automotive acrylic lacquer... which may or may not be dio-sol, or a very much reduced amount of tolulene - so, here we have a huge difference in terminology - confusing the heck out of many newcomers..

    In modeling, lacquer - does not contain the seriously strong solvents as those in automotive lacquer... and acrylic in modeling - is not to be confused with the acrylic lacquer in automotive.

     

    So, we have a clear (excuse pun) difference between terminology.

     

    As you suggest, it would be foolish to apply an automotive acrylic lacquer over a model unless a barrier was applied to protect it...or it was previously sprayed in an automotive acrylic primer -  and I have absolutely no intention of doing so.

    I am seriously considering testing some (modeling) clear lacquer over (modeling) acrylic... and I believe I have had success with this previously in model railway airbrushing.... 

    Of course, I will not do any "testing" on this LJ model.. but lay down some Tamiya acrylic paint, let it cure out for a day - then over-coat it with lacquer clear.... the 1 day between spraying will more than reveal if there is going to be any reaction or fusing...... I am not going to risk the work I have done on this paintwork.... and will be pretty much absolutely certain that any coating over the top will not attack that below..... 

     

    Thanks again.. hope some of this clarifies things for those who either are not aware, or are confused in terminology....

    Happy to further explain my understanding of this cryptic play-on-words.... 

    frats,

    Rosco

     


  17. Thanks Phil,

    the lacquer I refer to is Tamiya...... I have sucessfully mixed Tamiya lacquer thinners into Tamiya acrylic paint..... with great results.

    I'm not totally in love with Tamiya acrylic - strange as this might seem, with the results I have achieved.... fingerprints can be made into it - even weeks after spraying.

     

    In one of your previous replies, concerning decals and clear coating - from memory, you suggested applying a clear lacquer as a final coat to protect a model's paintwork exposed to the rigors of slot racing.... 

    Thank you for your reply - it would most certainly only ever be Tamiya lacquer that I would apply as a clear coat over anything....... 

    We must remember here, that even Tamiya acrylic - has "something" in it which is slightly aggressive - I applied it over some of Patto's decals and it caused them to wrinkle to some extent.... a water-based acrylic paint should not do this.... especially a clear.... 

    If you look at a bottle of Tamiya acrylic - it has a fire warning..... so, there is something in it...... but it does not cure out to become a hard wearing surface as the lacquer does.... 

     

     I am new to modeling with acrylic paint... I have a number of Vallejo acrylic paints - they do not contain any aggressive ingredients at all..... unlike the Tamiya acrylic.

     

    Patto warns on using "some" of the better know acrylics over his decals... I'm guessing, Tamiya acrylic is one of "those"....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  18. Progress update folk,

    after 8 days of leaving the Tamiya acrylic paint pull down, whilst otherwise engaged in a solid 5 day slog on the bogie gears and drive-line inside a model locomotive - I finally found it time to attempt compounding the paint.

    As you recall, I wasn't happy.... red - love it or hate it - looks great when it's finished, but it's a very difficult colour to use - and all my nightmares of last using it came back to me.

    I put an awful lot of paint on (so it seemed at the time).. and it looked "gluggy" to me... way too thick, but I wasn't getting the cover with the normal light coats I am used to applying... so, I left it... put it out in the sun for 30 minutes each day, left it in the breeze... and simply refused to look at it until I could play with it... 

     

    I took me all day today - but I believe I have reached the point where I need to make decisions as to the next step. I'm quite happy with the result from today - it has indeed come up a lot better than any indication suggested. There wasn't as much paint on it as I believed.... either the thinners was the major part of the paint, which took so long to finally evaporate out of it whilst pulling down - or, I hadn't applied as much as first believed.

    End result is that there was "just" enough to block it down with some 2500 wet/dry and compound it up to a lovely mirror finish. There are a couple of places where the primer began to show through..... but I was ready for it... and as soon as I saw the dreaded dark patches deep down in the paint - I stopped... 

     

    Five or six pix... and one showing what I urge others to take heed of when blocking down - clogged paper... I'll explain with a pic.... 

     

    I am beginning to block down the roof using 2500.. on a fairly firm neoprene block (same used for all other paint/body work)... we can see in this pic, the "fluttering" of the airbrush has left the surface "mottled".... using paper bound tightly onto a block, it will sand down the surface until all this "flutter" has been removed and we have a fully dull surface - with nothing glossy showing left...... we can then go ahead and begin to compound the flat finish and bring up that "mirror" shine we aim for..... pic

     

    5100-roof-blocked-mail.jpg

     

    In this next pic - I would like you to take a close look at the paper - there are three "clogged" bits in it..... if I were to continue with this paper, I'd simply be "gouging" into the fresh paint brought to the surface.... and this would go on and on until I either reached the primer - or did so much damage, I'd need to respray....

    Never try to get these flecks out... paper is cheap, compared to the hundreds of hours you put in on getting a surface up ready for paint..... bin it, don't be tempted - it will clog again much much faster than a fresh piece of paper....

    pic 

     

    5101-2500-paper-clogged-mail.jpg

     

    So, after quite a few hours - we have the body compounded. I used the same rubbing blocks for compounding. My method is to cut up strips of "chux" cloth and bind it around the small blocks as tight as my fingers can pull it. Only a few binds is necessary to get a pad...... any thicker and I have found that it is too flexible and the pad won't hold the shape of the block...

    I tend to use Tamiya fine compounding paste... changing pads regularly.

    Also - I repeat - when working over high areas and crowns etc... never go across them, only along.... leave those until you have finished the flat panels - chances are, you will have cut into them already without noticing - and, it only takes a few light passes along these areas to take out any flutter or mottle.... 

     

    Next lot of pix don't need any comment... I'm pretty happy with the result, and relieved that I do not need to respray the red..... pix...

     

    5102-compounded-mail.jpg

     

    5103-compounded-mail.jpg

     

     

    5104-compounded-mail.jpg

     

     

    5105-compounded-mail.jpg

     

     

    So, I'll leave this freshly compounded paint a couple more days now - if I'd been using lacquer (still would prefer it) I could go ahead with the next step - but I still find it possible to leave a finger print in this fresh paint if handled heavily.. so, we'll remove the risk and simply let it cure out more.... I may end up with "dimples" if any further thinner comes out..... evidenced by the thinners pulling down the already flat glossy finish..... I have seen this before, and it means more compounding.. all the time, risking the primer showing through.

     

    I am in a conundrum at present, and the next couple of days will give me time to think this out. I would like to clear coat over this paint with lacquer... before applying the decals... the lacquer coat will give me some insurance against the acrylic getting any reaction from the water used with decals.... and, it will also give me something hard to work down to again if applying decals creates any issues.... I can't guarantee that with this acrylic red paint... and don't want to be forced to go back a few steps and respray it.....

     

    Any comments greatly appreciated and welcomed.... I have not sprayed clear lacquer over cured acrylic yet... I certainly don't want to risk destroying this work up at this stage....

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  19. Hi OS-62, 

    I do things a little different from many in this forum - I like to reinforce any delicate parts by adding brass rod into them... or behind them.

    No putty that I am aware of is going to take the pounding and rigors of slot racing and marshall handling if used as B pillars or even 1/4 vents..... maybe, if they are heavily fortified by glazing... but, if the windows are open - the putty will simply crack and fall out.

     

    I have used Milliput, and have now shied away from it..... no offence intended to those who suggest it.

    I am about to test a Tamiya product I have not yet used... but have purchased some for upcoming work..... Tamiya epoxy putty - quick version (although they recommend 24 hours curing before working).. it's expensive, but if it does the trick - I am happy to pay.

    I bought the large box, which has five strips each of the two components.... there will be plenty for my modeling for quite some time before I need to go fetch any more.

     

    My issue with Milliput, is that it went hard on me... and nothing I could do or mix with it (mainly water, but tried a number of differing products) returned it to a workable mix..... the last batch I mixed up with the best of what could be recovered - took nearly four days to cure out, but fell apart when I tried to drill it.... 

    Admittedly, it was 2 years old... but it was kept well sealed in the plastic wrapping... it just went "off".

    I will report on Tamiya epoxy putty when I come up in need of using it... 

     

    To answer your original question - I'd go with fitting brass rod reinforcing and wrap putty around that - let it fully cure out and work it down to shape.

    I have had success doing this with the moved 1/4 vent frame on the little LJ I'm working on.. and use this method repeatedly in model railways... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1
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