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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. From the product code - I believe it to be an aerosol, Vinno....? I am having success with decanting from aerosols into a glass beaker, then allowing it to come up to ambient temperature (takes ages). It can then be bottled and used in an airbrush - with or without further thinning. But, if thinners are needed - I have found it is only the lacquer thinners which will work with it... so, I'm guessing the TS range of Tamiya paints are lacquer..... frats, Rosco
  2. Ok folk, as promised..... a little more on paint. Just before I start on today's spray experiments..... a pic of the LJ taken out in the daylight... If I can get this result out of the finished model after it is decaled and clear coated - I'll be pretty happy.... I'm not sure about the Tamiya compound polish yet.... whether there is any oil in it.... if so, I'll have to give the body a wash somehow without threatening the acrylic paint... I know this paint will wash off with water.. I can't use Metho... and I'm pretty much convinced that none of the other cleaners I have will not attack the paint. Has anyone successfully washed a Tamiya acrylic paint finish after it has cured out - without any damage to the paint?... keen to learn, yeah or neah. Pic.... And here we have the chopped off rear end of a Lima VR S class..... nothing special was done to this prior to painting.... except a wash in warm soapy water and an air dry. I then mixed up some SEM 1K etch and sprayed half a dozen light coats of it onto the body... first time using the Badger 360 double action gun.. there's a huge crack in the body - I am keen to watch what happens as these coats go down in succession... I waited no more than an hour - then hit it with Tamiya acrylic X-7..... again, I hate spraying red - did I ever mention this?....... I had to apply probably 20 passes, to get enough build to give it full cover from the primer.... you can see quite clearly here just how "deep" the paint film is. If it goes the same way as the LJ.... it will pull down a heck of a lot... there is heaps of thinners in this paint mix... but, it's only 1:1.... and if I use any less thinners - it is too thick to lay down a gloss coat..... I could go thinner, but I don't have a month out there in the garage to get one single solid coat on it....... I have a very strong dislike for spraying red...... Pic... In another experiment, I decanted some Pascoe's self shining floor polish - as recommended by Patto for sealing his decals. I have used this on the caravan floor many times, but only by squirting it from the bottle on the floor and then spreading it evenly to dry using a cloth... this is the first time I have sprayed it from an airbrush... It was unthinned and came out of the brush very fluently.... I used a mix of hot water and cloudy ammonia to clean up my gear afterwards... This little car is one of two Scalextric UOP Shadows that we bought around 1980, from the then Children's Palace in Footscray. They are my go to cars when children come to play slot cars...... almost indestructible - but the rear spoiler does pop off in extreme "events".... they have been wonderful cars... and cost only $19.95 at the time.... I've certainly had my value out of them. They got the "rosco" treatment a few years back, and run better than they did new.... They have not been loved at all.... body-wise... and as you can see, what remains of the decals is well beyond use by date..... those with a keen eye, and attention to detail will note use of both Ferrai and Ford decals... they were in the box, and we plastered all of them on both cars.. no idea of the contradiction... I will let this settle now, and spray a coat of Tamiya clear lacquer over it... I am keen to note if it attacks the floor polish.... just playing... not a lot to loose...... the model could do with a freshen up regardless..... Ok..... tomorrow, it's lathe day..... and a coat of Tamiya clear lacquer over the S class acrylic.... we'll see what comes of it pretty quickly I imagine.... I may lay down a Patto "Marlboro" decal over that.... and then the suggested floor polish... and then an acrylic clear.... all fun, but a learning curve... frats, Rosco
  3. Thanks OS-62... came up a lot better than first impression after spraying. I am playing around with paint at present..... a cut up piece of a locomotive body - so far, 1K etch and Tamiya red acrylic... all good so far - pix later. Plus - first time I have ever used a double action airbrush.... I have three now, and one more to come.... all Badger. I used the 360 this time.... 0.8 mm needle... paint was very thin (again).. but I got there in the end. Not used to pulling back on the trigger and had a few runs... got lazy and just kept the trigger down and flow set at the one position - not what is supposed to be, but until I get used to it... it worked... Oh, by the way - Tamiya acrylic - I knew there was something aggressive in it.... it's "N-propanol" and Butyl-alcohol"... the propanol and butyl, I believe would be the aggressive elements which are upsetting Patto's decals..... know more when I have time to look up those chemicals... Back later with some "loco" pix.... will spray the lacquer clear coat over it tomorrow... the acrylic deserves at least one day to set up.... did I ever mention I don't like spraying red paint?..... if not - consider it "mentioned".. sure it won't be the last time.... frats, Rosco
  4. way to go, OS-62... frats, Rosco
  5. Certainly, Shayne.... I have a cut-up section of locomotive I'll spray today.... put some pix up and show the forum the results.... I'll keep it pretty fresh - primer/acrylic colour/lacquer clear..... that way, if anything is going to muck up - the fresh paint should give me a pretty early indication. (Postie hasn't hit my inbox yet... let you know when he does). frats, Rosco
  6. Just read through this entire thread, Matt... some amazing work. By golly, you keep yourself busy - don't you? frats, Rosco
  7. If it's of any help, Matt...... providing your screw isn't brass........ I use a sneaky little device called a magnet to find steel bits trapped in the weave of the carpet under me in this room... frats, Rosco
  8. Ditto OS62... I'm nowhere near ready to play with the interior, but the Munter kit did come with an interior and a driver... even looks a bit like PB himself... frats, Rosco
  9. Further to you reply, Phil....... To the very best of my understanding, drawn on a number of decades messing with paint - there is an abundant contrast in terminology between modeling, and automotive paint.... and it should have been nipped in the bud before it became common-speak... Automotive acrylic is in fact, a lacquer.... using ketone, acetone, dio-sol and tolulene..... or combinations of any of these as the thinners for the body to be able to be sprayed... they are aggressive and will damage any paint system which is vulnerable to these chemicals..... enamels, or water based acrylics (like house paint). Modeling acrylic, is supposed to be water based.... and should not harm any substrate or previous coating..... Modeling lacquer, contains far less aggressive solvents than automotive acrylic lacquer... which may or may not be dio-sol, or a very much reduced amount of tolulene - so, here we have a huge difference in terminology - confusing the heck out of many newcomers.. In modeling, lacquer - does not contain the seriously strong solvents as those in automotive lacquer... and acrylic in modeling - is not to be confused with the acrylic lacquer in automotive. So, we have a clear (excuse pun) difference between terminology. As you suggest, it would be foolish to apply an automotive acrylic lacquer over a model unless a barrier was applied to protect it...or it was previously sprayed in an automotive acrylic primer - and I have absolutely no intention of doing so. I am seriously considering testing some (modeling) clear lacquer over (modeling) acrylic... and I believe I have had success with this previously in model railway airbrushing.... Of course, I will not do any "testing" on this LJ model.. but lay down some Tamiya acrylic paint, let it cure out for a day - then over-coat it with lacquer clear.... the 1 day between spraying will more than reveal if there is going to be any reaction or fusing...... I am not going to risk the work I have done on this paintwork.... and will be pretty much absolutely certain that any coating over the top will not attack that below..... Thanks again.. hope some of this clarifies things for those who either are not aware, or are confused in terminology.... Happy to further explain my understanding of this cryptic play-on-words.... frats, Rosco
  10. Thanks Phil, the lacquer I refer to is Tamiya...... I have sucessfully mixed Tamiya lacquer thinners into Tamiya acrylic paint..... with great results. I'm not totally in love with Tamiya acrylic - strange as this might seem, with the results I have achieved.... fingerprints can be made into it - even weeks after spraying. In one of your previous replies, concerning decals and clear coating - from memory, you suggested applying a clear lacquer as a final coat to protect a model's paintwork exposed to the rigors of slot racing.... Thank you for your reply - it would most certainly only ever be Tamiya lacquer that I would apply as a clear coat over anything....... We must remember here, that even Tamiya acrylic - has "something" in it which is slightly aggressive - I applied it over some of Patto's decals and it caused them to wrinkle to some extent.... a water-based acrylic paint should not do this.... especially a clear.... If you look at a bottle of Tamiya acrylic - it has a fire warning..... so, there is something in it...... but it does not cure out to become a hard wearing surface as the lacquer does.... I am new to modeling with acrylic paint... I have a number of Vallejo acrylic paints - they do not contain any aggressive ingredients at all..... unlike the Tamiya acrylic. Patto warns on using "some" of the better know acrylics over his decals... I'm guessing, Tamiya acrylic is one of "those".... frats, Rosco
  11. Progress update folk, after 8 days of leaving the Tamiya acrylic paint pull down, whilst otherwise engaged in a solid 5 day slog on the bogie gears and drive-line inside a model locomotive - I finally found it time to attempt compounding the paint. As you recall, I wasn't happy.... red - love it or hate it - looks great when it's finished, but it's a very difficult colour to use - and all my nightmares of last using it came back to me. I put an awful lot of paint on (so it seemed at the time).. and it looked "gluggy" to me... way too thick, but I wasn't getting the cover with the normal light coats I am used to applying... so, I left it... put it out in the sun for 30 minutes each day, left it in the breeze... and simply refused to look at it until I could play with it... I took me all day today - but I believe I have reached the point where I need to make decisions as to the next step. I'm quite happy with the result from today - it has indeed come up a lot better than any indication suggested. There wasn't as much paint on it as I believed.... either the thinners was the major part of the paint, which took so long to finally evaporate out of it whilst pulling down - or, I hadn't applied as much as first believed. End result is that there was "just" enough to block it down with some 2500 wet/dry and compound it up to a lovely mirror finish. There are a couple of places where the primer began to show through..... but I was ready for it... and as soon as I saw the dreaded dark patches deep down in the paint - I stopped... Five or six pix... and one showing what I urge others to take heed of when blocking down - clogged paper... I'll explain with a pic.... I am beginning to block down the roof using 2500.. on a fairly firm neoprene block (same used for all other paint/body work)... we can see in this pic, the "fluttering" of the airbrush has left the surface "mottled".... using paper bound tightly onto a block, it will sand down the surface until all this "flutter" has been removed and we have a fully dull surface - with nothing glossy showing left...... we can then go ahead and begin to compound the flat finish and bring up that "mirror" shine we aim for..... pic In this next pic - I would like you to take a close look at the paper - there are three "clogged" bits in it..... if I were to continue with this paper, I'd simply be "gouging" into the fresh paint brought to the surface.... and this would go on and on until I either reached the primer - or did so much damage, I'd need to respray.... Never try to get these flecks out... paper is cheap, compared to the hundreds of hours you put in on getting a surface up ready for paint..... bin it, don't be tempted - it will clog again much much faster than a fresh piece of paper.... pic So, after quite a few hours - we have the body compounded. I used the same rubbing blocks for compounding. My method is to cut up strips of "chux" cloth and bind it around the small blocks as tight as my fingers can pull it. Only a few binds is necessary to get a pad...... any thicker and I have found that it is too flexible and the pad won't hold the shape of the block... I tend to use Tamiya fine compounding paste... changing pads regularly. Also - I repeat - when working over high areas and crowns etc... never go across them, only along.... leave those until you have finished the flat panels - chances are, you will have cut into them already without noticing - and, it only takes a few light passes along these areas to take out any flutter or mottle.... Next lot of pix don't need any comment... I'm pretty happy with the result, and relieved that I do not need to respray the red..... pix... So, I'll leave this freshly compounded paint a couple more days now - if I'd been using lacquer (still would prefer it) I could go ahead with the next step - but I still find it possible to leave a finger print in this fresh paint if handled heavily.. so, we'll remove the risk and simply let it cure out more.... I may end up with "dimples" if any further thinner comes out..... evidenced by the thinners pulling down the already flat glossy finish..... I have seen this before, and it means more compounding.. all the time, risking the primer showing through. I am in a conundrum at present, and the next couple of days will give me time to think this out. I would like to clear coat over this paint with lacquer... before applying the decals... the lacquer coat will give me some insurance against the acrylic getting any reaction from the water used with decals.... and, it will also give me something hard to work down to again if applying decals creates any issues.... I can't guarantee that with this acrylic red paint... and don't want to be forced to go back a few steps and respray it..... Any comments greatly appreciated and welcomed.... I have not sprayed clear lacquer over cured acrylic yet... I certainly don't want to risk destroying this work up at this stage.... frats, Rosco
  12. Hi OS-62, I do things a little different from many in this forum - I like to reinforce any delicate parts by adding brass rod into them... or behind them. No putty that I am aware of is going to take the pounding and rigors of slot racing and marshall handling if used as B pillars or even 1/4 vents..... maybe, if they are heavily fortified by glazing... but, if the windows are open - the putty will simply crack and fall out. I have used Milliput, and have now shied away from it..... no offence intended to those who suggest it. I am about to test a Tamiya product I have not yet used... but have purchased some for upcoming work..... Tamiya epoxy putty - quick version (although they recommend 24 hours curing before working).. it's expensive, but if it does the trick - I am happy to pay. I bought the large box, which has five strips each of the two components.... there will be plenty for my modeling for quite some time before I need to go fetch any more. My issue with Milliput, is that it went hard on me... and nothing I could do or mix with it (mainly water, but tried a number of differing products) returned it to a workable mix..... the last batch I mixed up with the best of what could be recovered - took nearly four days to cure out, but fell apart when I tried to drill it.... Admittedly, it was 2 years old... but it was kept well sealed in the plastic wrapping... it just went "off". I will report on Tamiya epoxy putty when I come up in need of using it... To answer your original question - I'd go with fitting brass rod reinforcing and wrap putty around that - let it fully cure out and work it down to shape. I have had success doing this with the moved 1/4 vent frame on the little LJ I'm working on.. and use this method repeatedly in model railways... frats, Rosco
  13. Thanks Alan, locked into that thread now..... getting an urge to make a start.... Won't go into the long and drawn out blow by blow account with this build - short and sweet. frats, Rosco
  14. Ahem, Alan.... have we seen any builds yet? Mine is still in my head... frats, Rosco
  15. I have ordered four airbrushes in separate orders through Amazon.... three of them have arrived safely. All orders have been from the US. Strangely, two were sent through USPS and arrived very quickly indeed - within 10 days, both on the same day as separate packages. The third was the first ordered and came in at 19 days through Fastway... the fourth, again another Fastway order - is supposed to arrive here on 29th Jan..... all orders were placed within a week of each other... It would seem, Fastway is not as the name might suggest... I also ordered some "Redgab" (name reversed is Badger) "needle juice"... it has taken the longest of all - it was ordered before the airbrushes and arrived yesterday - from the US, and to my home via AusPost... I have a package of axle and gear sets for a locomotive coming as well from the US... still hasn't been shipped, order placed two weeks back. frats, Rosco
  16. Chas, appreciate exactly where you are with our shared hobby - I would certainly not suggest that I am a rivet counter, I do like a bit of detail - but we must appreciate, slot cars are just that.... meant to be run, and not showcased - there are other factions in modeling more suited to the number of screws around headlights, etc... I do like to add detail, to me it brings life into a model.. but never to the extent that it will ever be subjected to someone visually scouring every detail to find error in scale.. I can live quite easily without that. I too, have been retired for a similar time - and my first slot car was purchased at around age 12.... nearly some 55 years back now - a journey I have enjoyed almost all of my life. I digress terribly from the subject of this thread - but believe reply warranted to your post..... Looking forward to sharing the series with you Chas - and finally getting view of the competing models. Mine won't result in anywhere near the detail that I put into my previous entries..... but, I'm hoping it will yet be another model I will enjoy owning.... Apologies to the OP for digression... frats, Rosco
  17. nicely put, Alan..... now, let's get some models up...... frats, Rosco
  18. Too much spare time on entrant's hands, Alan..... it should be put to better use modeling... My 2c frats, Rosco
  19. I use PostImage, OS-62..... bit of a pain not being able to post direct into our forum, but it doesn't take a lot to upload to PostImage - then copy the provided link and simply paste into your thread..... let me know if I can help. Link to PostImage..... it's free, and seems to work pretty well for me - only downside with being free - pix have to be uploaded separately... just a bit of an inconvenience. https://postimages.org/ But, compared to my previous host - where I did a huge amount of work on many other forums..... and then they all disappeared because they wanted money.... grrrrr So far so good with PI..... frats, Rosco
  20. Bill Brown's momentus roll over from the top of the mountain... everyone held their breath... That car was repaired and raced again... not sure if Bill ever did though..... You'll find the pix in "Old Motor Racing Photographs"... will attach the link when I have time.... frats, Rosco
  21. I spotted those too, Vinno - someone has made a hash of trying to add them to the chassis - the end result would have denigrated performance.... the right hand bush is cock-eyed and must have caused binding across the axle...... or perhaps - it was a "loose" fit. I'm starting to think that heat has been applied to "fuse" the plastic in some for.... I don't believe it was a soldering iron, perhaps a heat gun or torch. Possibility may have been to fit the brass bushes and "melt" them in... if anyone is considering this, just remember all plastic has a "memory"... and as it cools out - without being held in shape, is more than likely to take on a different shape than planned... if this has been the case, we can see here those results... We must not forget here, that there are many slot car owners who are too frightened to have a go at tuning a model - for fear of making irripairable mistakes - too much negative comment and they either don't make any attempt again, or walk away from the hobby.... but - for goodness sake, if someone is going to make a first attempt and attack a chassis like this without at least throwing up their intentions to the forum for advice - they would be better advised to leave it to someone who has a little bit of experience - or ask them for hands on guidance... My thoughts, frats, Rosco
  22. I'd love to have masked and spray the white, Shaynus - which would have demanded that I spray white first, and over coat with red.... always, dark over light when masking. The only reason I have decided against doing my own "work" - is the very fine pin striping that Patto has provided in his decals.... He has deleted the red ink from the decals - hence why I have sprayed the model red.... When the decals are applied over the red base..... the pin striping will show through... in red - obviously, the deleted ink simply is clear film..... the white of the decal is going to be my "panel" work... how it comes up over my work I am yet to find out. We have a long way to go before we look at decals.... I am ever hopeful, that this model will be a kind reflection of the car it is attempting to replicate in scale.... we'll see. Just a bit disappointed at present - that will all change when I address this paint issue... I'll overcome it, just means a bit of work.... probably saw the result before I commenced the paint process... vision, eh?... might have had my "rosco" blinkers on... thanks for your kind words - and yes, some would simply fit a chassis under this result and enjoy putting in a few laps.... might have to keep the model moving, we wouldn't want to risk anyone actually focusing on it..... frats, Rosco
  23. Ok folk, here they are..... paint is still very soft - it may pull down a lot further yet as it cures out, and hopefully some of that gloss and mirror finish will come up.... but, I'm pretty much resigned to it having to be blocked down and re-sprayed..... if you look closely - you can see the very heavy build of paint.. this shows up around the detail areas.... We'll get there, just not yet. So - it will be at least a week before I return to work on this part of the build. Hopefully, the angular bearings will arrive early next week and we can re-assemble the lathe.. and turn up some new wheels ... I can then make a start on the chassis. Pix.. not happy, Jan.... frats, Rosco
  24. Most certainly, Shaynus..... "if" I were to spray red again - that would be my go to primer.... but, just the same - no contrasting of any underlying work .... just one solid primer coat.. lesson learned... red - gotta love it.... Ferrari do. frats, Rosco
  25. Hmmm....that certainly is a "challenge". I'm seriously hoping that the original owner of this chassis is not a forum member...? Not unfixable - but a lot of work, just the same. From what I can see in your pix, from the motor mount forward could be brought up to scratch. From there back, it's not a cot-case - but certainly would involve a lot of replacing and the amount of work involved in making the refurb robust enough for both the rear axle and motor.... if it were me, I'd simply make up a brass and piano wire chassis and replace it. If you were stubborn enough to want to fix this - you could maybe incorporate a motor/axle pod arrangement to the rear. I don't believe I'd be brave enough to use a lamination of styrene card fused into the Hornby chassis.. it may be possible to do this by drilling and fitting brass screws - but I believe the work involved would far outweigh an easier alternative. That chassis has been hashed....when I first saw the first pic, I was of the opinion it was a result of being in a dwelling fire... but then I saw the cut marks... I can see that much of the attack has been effected to provide body float... but the amount of attack around the rear axle and crown opening.... hmmmmm I'm lost for words. I'm starting to plan think this out, and see no other option than to cut out just enough of what remains of the rear to build in a replacement - the more I think on it, the more of the plan becomes clearer. I'd certainly be incorporating a little bit of brass or some thin piano wire into any addition - the piano wire running forward enough that it can be firmly fixed to the front half of the chassis...... there you have it - done. Cut the rear off, lay some piano wire along the sides of where the motor will go and secure it down to the chassis. then "build" the rear from a brass motor/axle frame..... The end result would more than not conform to any club rules regarding original chassis - so, we'd just ditch that idea and build up a full piano wire and brass chassis and be done with it... My thoughts, frats, Rosco
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