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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. "Good thinking Max".... I might just have a little peek and see if I can make an improvement.. All four tyres clear my base... but, the rear ones sure are close to it... much, much better than having them sit on the deck - and then clamp them down with a cam or screw... and place the tyres on permanent compression in storage, Bram... I'll probably add some packing on top of the base mount as well.... so that when the model is nipped up with the screw - the pod is supported flush with the packing.... Did you note that the motor is slightly angled?... I'm sure they have done this for a reason... unlike Slot-It sidewinders which run square to the motor... Any thoughts? frats, Rosco
  2. It took me a fair bit of "decyphering", Peter.... but I think I have all the lettering. It's really good quality decaling... very sharp - but just "so" small....... here are a couple of really close up pix to clarify them... frats, Rosco
  3. Got it....... the wheel, more to the point. My suspicion is that Thunderslot made a "one size fits all" interior for all the differing Elva models... and this one just happened "not" to be the chosen one for the job lot.... Bram, yes - my car... and yes - T/S have gone one further with their jewel case base... and provided a raised section for the model to sit on..... keeping the tyres up off the deck. I really wish that other manufacturers would adopt this practice. I c/a icy pole sticks to my case bases to effect this..... maybe not so bad for you track junkies - where your models get a regular run to keep the tyres round.... but many of mine sit in their cases for years on end .... and I found with some of them - "flats" develop on the tyres..... maybe something for others to consider... more specifically - slot car manufacturers... Chequered flag to OS-62... I could have been pedantic and waited for "wheel" to come up ...but I'll wave the flag for your answer... frats, Rosco
  4. I noticed that this model does not appear on the Armchair catalogue.... My suspicion is that all allocated Elvis models were gobbled up before they were even shipped... It's a great looking model, Peter.... does yours have the fault line join on the driver's side (well, right hand side)?.. It shows Bruce McLaren and Elvis Presley as drivers on the right side... along with Bruce McLaren and another driver I can yet make the name of... they are lower down on the body sill. Did you true the tyres?.. or just ran them on the tread pattern... I don't believe I'll touch mine.... this model won't be a performer... although I'm probably wasting an awful lot of potential.... I have bought it not only for the great looks, but because it's probably the only "Elvis" car I'll ever own... frats, Rosco
  5. Yes, smaller Goodyear letters front and rear... but that's not "it".... worth another shot. Think outside the square..... and think "5".... frats, Rosco
  6. Sorry to disappoint those expecting the final two wheels.... no work done today, lot of catching up around the house and in the garage... plus - too darned hot to be turning a lathe. And.... lots of mopping up in here... drool over the floor - after getting the latest of two additions to my slot garage... the little Elva is exquisite... see new thread with 9 pix. Wheels tomorrow... pix tomorrow night.. trust me, I was with the government.... sort of.. frats, Rosco
  7. Hi folk, AusPost delivered two of my latest purchases today - A Mr Slotcar Mclaren F1 GTR white kit, and this amazing Thunderslot McLaren Elva Mk.1. I was particularly taken with the Elva McLaren when I viewed it coming up as a pre-order. This is the car that Elvis drove (supposedly drove, but at least he sat in it) in the 1965 movie.... The detail is very good.. lovely, in fact. I am yet to pull off the body from the chassis - Thunderslot, apparently - use a different screw.. looks like a posidrive, but until I get out all my little special bits.. I haven't been able to get "under the bonnet".... Some pix.... I hadn't noticed the join line until viewing the close up pic of the drivers names.... it's on both sides and I'm a little unsure why it's there. The joint is secure... it could have been sanded down better prior to painting... unless it is prototypical of the model.. Also, for those who have now seen the pix.... did you notice anything "wrong" with detail.... again, unless this is also proto-typical.... clue - take a look a the wheels..... all the wheels... As for the configuration being "sidewinder"... this is a bit of a rouse.. for, the motor is angled slightly... and the crown is very thin.. like an anglewinder... I don't know if this is Thunderslot practice... and I suspect this will not be the last Thunderslot model I purchase.... so far, very impressed.. The very fine mesh each side of the engine is worth drooling over.. I love this detail - it is rare to find it in slot cars.. but identifies a clear delineator in model railways... I have included a pic of the model mounted in the jewel case base..... take note! other manufacturers... if Thunderslot have the nouse to include a raised platform which keeps tyres up off the deck - so should you... and avoid me having to glue icy pole sticks to my jewel cases for every other model I have purchased.... please - take notice of this very nice little addition.. some thought put into the preservation of the model here... not just marketing presentation... This little model will not get a run until October.. when we set up our layout for Bathurst weekend... along with the additional 8 other models I have amassed since last having a track to run on... It will not be used as a competition car.... it, like so many of my others - is a collector..but, I will use it... I know my wife will fall in love with this car... along with the Corvette Stingray I bought her a couple of years back... she loves that car.. always have, and when one came up on the Carrera list... I simply had to get it for her..... along with the 9 1/4 inch Makita saw - I bought that for her too.... I just knew she'd love it... so, didn't hold back.... by golly, I'm such a kind and thoughtful person, aren't I? Ok.. happy to answer any questions on the model... there is also another two drivers names beneath Hill and Presley... one is Bruce McLaren.. I have not been able to squint hard enough under a magnifying glass to make out the other one.. this detail is absolutely miniscule.... I'll add some more pix when I get the bonnet up.... frats, Rosco
  8. If you find the plans for one of those, Shayne.... make sure you make a copy for me.... by golly, could I make use of some of them here at present.... frats, Rosco
  9. OS-62.... don't be too keen on the chassis part of the build... it will be pretty basic. This model was never intended to be up at the top of the leader board in performance.... but, it will go... and should run very sweetly.. Two more wheels, and we are finally onto the builder board.... I'll let the paint pull down a bit more during the week before blocking back again and compounding.... we can then get stuck into applying Patto's great decals... Pulled out the little Munter Cooper "half-built" last night... have to get that finished off for the upcoming Tasman Proxy series.... so, we know where we are going after this build. Also, arriving today - a Mclaren Elva white kit.... and the Elvis Mclaren... more work! frats, Rosco
  10. Can't tell you where it's gone, Shayne... but I seem to have accumulated a lot more models (in a number of varying hobbies) .... they just "seem" to be breeding without me really noticing... PM sent re wheels. frats, Rosco
  11. Hmmmm.... Shayne - if you saw the work that goes into producing the wheels... not to mention wheels #1 through #25.... some of the earlier ones taking more than one day to make each..... well..... I suppose I could make them... but, no-one could afford me.......... even at poverty hourly rates.... I have 24 wheels looking at me each time I go into my spare parts box.. that's enough for six models. Most of them are fairly good.. there are about 5 or 6 which I would never fit to a model.. but as a static display - they'd be fine... I made an awful lot of mistakes... as I do when I learn something new... but I believe I have wheels for models I have not even considered yet.... along with the purchased Slot-It ones that are now surplus to this build... and tyres... So, my question to you is...... when are you going into production?.... it's a part of this great hobby which really begs more people to have a go at than have yet to consider it. Aside from the lathe.... there are only a few lathe tools necessary for turning up reasonable wheels like this.... two lathe cutting tools, one centering drill bit, two drill bits and one M2 tapping bit..... plus the aluminium rod. However, I also appreciate that in my soon to be 11 years of retirement, I have become very selfish - and forget that people simply don't have days on end to while away on what becomes obsessive demand.... I am looking forward now to starting the chassis build... the motor/axle bracket made last year will make a re-appearance... and I will finally get to use the scratch builder's jig from the PSM.... The body and these wheels were always going to take me a long time to get up for the project - the next stages will go very fast in comparison... frats, Rosco
  12. Ok folk.... wheels - but first... lathe, what a difference these angular contact bearings have made to my lathe.... it is far more accurate now than it has ever been. I backed off the pre-load before starting on wheels today.. and re-set it... the bearings now have about 4 hours running on them, and I believe they are now bed in... So, armed with access to this wonderful machine, I set off to make some new wheels for the tyres I believe are a much closer scale size than any of the others I have tried. For those who want specs.. these are what I have come up with, and it all works well together. The tyres are MJK 4272. The wheel specs are - overall rim diameter - 14.2 mm (shown as reference "E") rim diameter - 11.8 mm (C) Overall rim width (minus hub) - 7.0 mm (D) Step width - 3.0 mm (F) Rim width each side of step - 2.0 mm Hub diameter - 5.0 mm Hub width - 3.0 mm Insert recess diameter - 10.75 mm Insert recess depth - 3.25 mm Ok.. some pix... It annoys me no end, to see wheels that have inserts (centres) that are not "centred".. but wobble.... I decided that with all the detail I am putting into this model, I'd try something new to centre the insert in the wheel.... In the pic below, you can see that I have marked out the very centre of the insert using dividers.. I then used a pin vice and starting with a 0.5 mm drill bit... drilled through the absolute centre. I worked the drill bit sizes up until I got to a #54 (1.4 mm) drill bit.. and then tapped the hole with a 10BA tap..... I was then able to fit the tap with insert fixed into the keyless chuck of my little Dremel... I'd be lost without this amazing tool. Spinning the machine over at the lowest speed, and using one of the rubbing blocks bound with 360 grit wet/dry.. I "turned" down the insert until I came up on the very edge of the bevel part of the insert.. The "bevel" came up at exactly at 10.75 mm..... and the reason I set that measurement for the recess in the wheel.... In the next pic, you can see that the bevel of the insert flows out nicely onto the inner rim... and I believe this will look great when I have painted the centre of the spokes in chrome.. with the surrounding part of the insert in black..... as was these amazing wheels chosen by the HDT for the LJ.... And......just as a bit of a tease... I simply had to do this... Not sure where the ride height will be until I design and build the chassis - but I suspect the rear wheels/tyres will fit in somewhere around this.... Excuse the yet to be compounded clear coat.... you can see that it was applied "copulously"... still pulling down, then we compound and start work with Patto's decals of PB's Bathurst winning LJ XU-1... I have high hopes for this model. Few pix... just messing around.. And, as a visual contrast - the difference between the wheels and tyres I have swapped to - with the previous pair on the right hand of the axle.... I do very much like the look of the smaller and narrower tyre.... it is yet to be trued down with the Tire Razor (sp) which will take a fair bit more out of the diameter and footprint width. Ok.. that's if for a bit now.... two more wheels and inserts to do, then we can start work on the chassis... I have dreamed up a different approach to the front axle.... all will be revealed as the build continues... Until next... frats, Rosco
  13. Hi folk, more testing.. But first - lathe..... as far as I can tell, I am now ready to go with turning wheels for the LJ. I set the lathe up today and took a test cut.... by golly, the old bearings and pre-load must have been way out... I'm a bit puzzled as to how I got the results I did... From the first cut - I knew..... this machine has never cut like it does now.... I can take such fine cuts that the material simply floats in the air...suspended, it's that fine.. and the finish of the cut is simply lovely.. still get the odd gouge here and there, my feed rate/speed/cut are nowhere near perfect.. but, I turned down some ali rod that was used on the last wheel I turned before the big replacement... then did a couple of passes with the HSS finishing tool I made..... pretty happy.. Pic.... I'll now set about writing down the specs for the new wheels - to fit the MJK Cortina/Escort tyres... hopefully, this time next week - we'll have four wheels.... with tyres fitted... and maybe even inserts... So - further to the above re floor polish, decals and lacquer paint... I have absolutely no qualm about spraying Tamiya clear lacquer over floor polish... I sprayed floor polish over the decals of the second Shadow today... left it one hour, then sprayed some of the decanted TS-13 plus a little more lacquer thinners mixed in... I used the Patriot this time to spray - and it is just as lovely as the others.... I'm not good yet at triggering the paint.. but have found I can simply hold down the trigger and keep the air continuous.. and am learning to pull back the trigger for paint flow.... fan width... and shutting it off again at the end of the stroke... all the time, keeping the trigger "down" ... never going to run out of air - with 14 cfm supply at hand.... Here is a pic of the Shadow - just after it was sprayed with lacquer clear coat.. the floor polish may have been "just" a little on the wet side... but I got impatient.. as I do, sometimes.... pic.. Lighting does not really do the finish justice.... you can see some parts of it where the reflection reveals just how good this paint is, using an airbrush... it "floods" on beautifully and flows out even better... I believe I'm now converted for using lacquer as a final top coat... So, Mr. Impatience... got the better of me.... raced inside and grabbed the LJ... didn't wash it, clean it... just dusted it off.. and sprayed two light coats of the lacquer clear directly over the compounded acrylic.... absolutely no issue either... well, not with the paint or reaction.. but, in my haste - just one "hair" found its way onto the roof.... and "bazingo!"... I now have a hair to compound out... Reality is, this was always going to be a test run... the coat is very thin.. just two passes.... PIc was taken less than 30 seconds after the second pass.. you can see it is still wet.... As it is now, it has pulled down beautifully... but, I'll compound it tomorrow and apply another coat of lacquer clear... then - we look to Patto's decals... maybe a compound before that... but it shouldn't need much of one.... I have every confidence now that Tamiya TS-13 can be applied over the Tamiya acrylic solids... Pic... You can clearly see "that" hair..... if I'd been my usual nervous "Myrtle".. I'd have washed, blown dried and air dusted this before spraying it... not to mention mounting it on a stand to spray... I simply grabbed it, raced it out to the booth in the garage... and "shot" paint... Ok... wheels tomorrow - and I will compound this clear coat on the LJ.. and respray - with all the care and attention that should have been applied today... frats, Rosco
  14. Ok folk, Update on testing paint, decals and floor polish... I'll leave the locomotive body alone from here for now.. and just post on results from the Scalextric shadow. One exception, I didn't have one issue pop up with over-coating Tamiya acrylic with Tamiya clear coat with lacquer thinners... in fact, I'm impressed - it was able to be handled within two hours of "flooding" the acrylic with lacquer based clear.... Next up - overcoating Pascoe's self-shining floor polish with lacquer.... same deal - no reaction, and the clear coat went off just as fast as that applied to the loco body... At the same time, over-coating the compounded side of the floor polish had exactly the same response - nothing... So... win, win, win... I do know, I can't clear coat Patto's decals with lacquer ... or even Tamiya acrylic clear coat... but the self-shining floor polish won't affect them, and I now know the acyrlic or lacquer won't affect the floor polish... Just a couple of pix - first up, the left side of the Shadow - previously coated with floor polish then compounded with Tamiya fine compounding polish... we see here that the lacquer based clear coat over the top of the compounded floor polish suffered no reaction at all... not a good pic, but the gloss factor is even greater than the floor polish gloss..... Second pic is a bit of a close up on the decals..... these were bare under the floor polish, then compounded - but not washed..... the lacquer clear was sprayed (flooded even) over them to see if there was going to be a reaction... there wasn't... Pic.... I am further happy to report, the lathe is back together and about to be checked for accuracy - so, hope to make a start on the LJ chassis wheels.... very soon... watch this space... Next, and this is totally off topic, but I don't want to start a new thread which will be very short lived.... airbrushes... Here is a pic of my five airbrushes.. the last one came in just a couple of days ago. They are all Badger brushes, the one at the bottom of the pic is my faithful little 200 syphon brush... I have used this brush for 39 years... it must have had ten gallons of paint go through it by now, and has been used from everything between very fine misting of weathering.. right up to a 2" fan with auto paint when i sprayed the plenum chamber intake grille of my 1:1 scale EK Holden... in all that time, I have only had to replace one needle and one tip.... it has been an amazing brush. Few pix... At top, the Patriot 105 Second from top, Arrow - which is almost an exact duplication of the Patriot - but has a much smaller paint cup for getting into tight places. Both these brushes have a 0.5 mm needle/tip set.. The middle brush is probably going to become my favorite.. it's the 360... just such a versatile brush. I can be used as a gravity fed or syphon bottle brush.. The barrel can be rotated through 360 degrees, so you can just about put either the paint cup or bottle where you want when forced to work in a confined space. It has a 0.8 mm needle/tip set.. but I used this spraying the very thin floor polish yesterday - and it was capable of being able to spray a very fine line, for the larger needle/tip size.. Next down, is the Rolls-Royce of airbrushes... the Sotar (Stare Of The Art Results - acronym). It has additional features which allow the very fine setting of the amount of needle retraction - and it is scaled to 0.01 mm increments... so that exacting settings can be returned to for various delicate jobs.... I have not used this brush yet... but am very keen to load it up with some thin paint and see just how fine it can spray at... it has a very fine 0.21 mm needle/tip... And at the bottom - we have my faithful little 200.. which will not be used much from now on... maybe for larger jobs ... but I doubt that it will get much of a go now that the newer brushes have arrived. I am including a pic of the front of these brushes as well.. and a close-up of the Sotar brush... that needle is certainly very much exposed - it will demand great care in use. I am amazed at the incredible machining of this set... the spacing around the needle in the tip is exact... amazing for such a small needle... Pix... And to close off this post... I decanted the remainder out of some Tamiya TS-13 lacquer clear coat aerosol today... and it is now in a 30 ml bottle ready for use.... It stinks to high heaven.. but I am a firm believer that this lacquer paint will outlive any acrylic in the rigors of slot car use... as Phil has laid testament to... Ok, folk - that will be it for a little while now - work will start on turning the LJ wheels very shortly - then I can settle in to building a chassis for it.... with the added side distraction of clear-coating and applying decals to it.... Until next.. frats, Rosco
  15. All my US orders have now arrived.. no complaints. However, I was offered a 2 month free trial of Amazon prime, which I took.... and shipping was express and free... All arrived safely, but I can't explain why two of the six packages came via Fastway - and the others came via AusPost... The last package arrived today - two packs of model locomotive axle gear sets.. AusPost. I have two more to come, one from a forum member here who is kindly sending me a couple of things.. and a Tamiya pack of the three polishing compounds plus rubbing pads and polishing cloths ($35 AUS, shipped if anyone is intersted). frats, Rosco
  16. Thanks for clearing that up for others following this, Vinno..... I was hoping no one would put it in the microwave.... but...... frats, Rosco
  17. Thanks Vinno - I have some testing to do today - and will report on my LJ thread.. If I don't get any satisfaction with what I plan - I'll try to hand paint over Patto's decals with Tamiya clear acrylic... and then overcoat with clear lacquer using the airbrush... There must be something in the ink Patto is using which makes it vulnerable to the solvents in paint.... I am having success using the Pascoe's floor polish over them.... with an airbrush.... it's a thin as all heck, and will flood very easily... more playing around with the process today. Thanks for your reply - you have far more experience and satisfaction in results than me.. I take your advice with great respect and appreciation... frats, Rosco
  18. Bump..... Which resin did you use Grant....? Have you produced any more castings since the last post in this thread? I have quite a number of little model railway pieces I want to take molds of in Pinkysil.... and will need resin to make the castings.... Shrinkage will be a major issue, so too will flexibility.... some of these intended castings are bogie side-frames which have to ride out the rigors of axles twisting a tiny bit as the bogie flexes going around curves...I also need to drill out the castings and fit delrin bearings into the holes.... Thanks for any info.... frats, Rosco
  19. Just on the off chance - have you sprayed Tamiya aerosol clear lacquer over Patto's decals?.. and, if so - did you have issue with them crinkling? My bad - just read your OP and know you used Patto's..... any issues with wrinkling or crinkling?.... or, is there a trick to laying down lacquer over them...? frats, Rosco
  20. Thanks Vinno - my suspicion verified.... Go a little careful when warming up aerosol paint. One chap from our r/c model aeroplane club used a "Birko" to heat a can of paint to get a mirror finish on a pylon racing plane... it exploded in his face and blinded him permanently in one eye.... no model is worthy of risking that happen. I prefer my decant and air-brush method.. I have greater control over the result... although the current issue with Tamiya red acrylic would suggest otherwise.. Thanks for the reply... and confirmation... frats, Rosco
  21. Thanks again, OS-62..... it's not my ability, it's the way I've spoiled myself in getting the wonderful tools I have... and a little bit of patience in learning how to use them... Ok folk, learned a bit more..... the self-shining floor polish recommended by Patto to use over his decals is "workable"... I couldn't help myself... I polished one side of the Shadow with a small wadding of cotton wool and some Tamiya fine polishing compound.... Even after quite a bit of rubbing, I was unable to break through the floor polish.... so - it's a lot tougher and resilient that one might have perceived.... surely, if people can walk on it for a couple of months - it can stand up to a bit of rough house handling on a slot car.. right? I decided I'd only do half of the model.. so that tomorrow, when come to spray lacquer clear over the entire model - I will be able to see if the lacquer attacks the floor polish AND also if there is going to be an issue with oil or silicone etc in the Tamiya compound..... Pix.... We can see in this pic that the coating of floor wax has fully flowed out over the bare plastic, but it has not done so on the very sad decals... this is the "compounded" side... In this pic, we can see that the floor polish has responded well to being compounded - and we can further see that it has not broken through - or there would be a "joint" mid way across the front of the model. I believe, to get a gloss finish over the decals as well.... I should have waited an hour, and applied a second coat.. or maybe even a third.... But, we'll know tomorrow after spraying a clear coat whether that is going to remedy the "satin" finish over very poor decals... Until next.... frats, Rosco
  22. From the product code - I believe it to be an aerosol, Vinno....? I am having success with decanting from aerosols into a glass beaker, then allowing it to come up to ambient temperature (takes ages). It can then be bottled and used in an airbrush - with or without further thinning. But, if thinners are needed - I have found it is only the lacquer thinners which will work with it... so, I'm guessing the TS range of Tamiya paints are lacquer..... frats, Rosco
  23. Ok folk, as promised..... a little more on paint. Just before I start on today's spray experiments..... a pic of the LJ taken out in the daylight... If I can get this result out of the finished model after it is decaled and clear coated - I'll be pretty happy.... I'm not sure about the Tamiya compound polish yet.... whether there is any oil in it.... if so, I'll have to give the body a wash somehow without threatening the acrylic paint... I know this paint will wash off with water.. I can't use Metho... and I'm pretty much convinced that none of the other cleaners I have will not attack the paint. Has anyone successfully washed a Tamiya acrylic paint finish after it has cured out - without any damage to the paint?... keen to learn, yeah or neah. Pic.... And here we have the chopped off rear end of a Lima VR S class..... nothing special was done to this prior to painting.... except a wash in warm soapy water and an air dry. I then mixed up some SEM 1K etch and sprayed half a dozen light coats of it onto the body... first time using the Badger 360 double action gun.. there's a huge crack in the body - I am keen to watch what happens as these coats go down in succession... I waited no more than an hour - then hit it with Tamiya acrylic X-7..... again, I hate spraying red - did I ever mention this?....... I had to apply probably 20 passes, to get enough build to give it full cover from the primer.... you can see quite clearly here just how "deep" the paint film is. If it goes the same way as the LJ.... it will pull down a heck of a lot... there is heaps of thinners in this paint mix... but, it's only 1:1.... and if I use any less thinners - it is too thick to lay down a gloss coat..... I could go thinner, but I don't have a month out there in the garage to get one single solid coat on it....... I have a very strong dislike for spraying red...... Pic... In another experiment, I decanted some Pascoe's self shining floor polish - as recommended by Patto for sealing his decals. I have used this on the caravan floor many times, but only by squirting it from the bottle on the floor and then spreading it evenly to dry using a cloth... this is the first time I have sprayed it from an airbrush... It was unthinned and came out of the brush very fluently.... I used a mix of hot water and cloudy ammonia to clean up my gear afterwards... This little car is one of two Scalextric UOP Shadows that we bought around 1980, from the then Children's Palace in Footscray. They are my go to cars when children come to play slot cars...... almost indestructible - but the rear spoiler does pop off in extreme "events".... they have been wonderful cars... and cost only $19.95 at the time.... I've certainly had my value out of them. They got the "rosco" treatment a few years back, and run better than they did new.... They have not been loved at all.... body-wise... and as you can see, what remains of the decals is well beyond use by date..... those with a keen eye, and attention to detail will note use of both Ferrai and Ford decals... they were in the box, and we plastered all of them on both cars.. no idea of the contradiction... I will let this settle now, and spray a coat of Tamiya clear lacquer over it... I am keen to note if it attacks the floor polish.... just playing... not a lot to loose...... the model could do with a freshen up regardless..... Ok..... tomorrow, it's lathe day..... and a coat of Tamiya clear lacquer over the S class acrylic.... we'll see what comes of it pretty quickly I imagine.... I may lay down a Patto "Marlboro" decal over that.... and then the suggested floor polish... and then an acrylic clear.... all fun, but a learning curve... frats, Rosco
  24. Thanks OS-62... came up a lot better than first impression after spraying. I am playing around with paint at present..... a cut up piece of a locomotive body - so far, 1K etch and Tamiya red acrylic... all good so far - pix later. Plus - first time I have ever used a double action airbrush.... I have three now, and one more to come.... all Badger. I used the 360 this time.... 0.8 mm needle... paint was very thin (again).. but I got there in the end. Not used to pulling back on the trigger and had a few runs... got lazy and just kept the trigger down and flow set at the one position - not what is supposed to be, but until I get used to it... it worked... Oh, by the way - Tamiya acrylic - I knew there was something aggressive in it.... it's "N-propanol" and Butyl-alcohol"... the propanol and butyl, I believe would be the aggressive elements which are upsetting Patto's decals..... know more when I have time to look up those chemicals... Back later with some "loco" pix.... will spray the lacquer clear coat over it tomorrow... the acrylic deserves at least one day to set up.... did I ever mention I don't like spraying red paint?..... if not - consider it "mentioned".. sure it won't be the last time.... frats, Rosco
  25. way to go, OS-62... frats, Rosco
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