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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Thanks chaps.... I have just ordered the T/S screwdriver set.... seemed a bit silly to pay $19 for just one driver...when their pouch with 25 bits in it was only $6 more... plus the handle and pouch..... Yes - Torx.. don't have any of those which are small enough.... more tools to find a home for in this ridiculously crammed room..... anyone who has never visited here, simply has no idea what this room/workshop/study/model display room is like.... one way in, and only one way out.... not including the door..... moving around in here is simply a case of shifting the "passage".... Just ordered the T/S Mosler AW and also Elva Mk 1 Can Am white kit.. I now have a "little" problem..... the room is too "little"..... frats, Rosco
  2. Thanks OS-62...... not sure about "wealth"... but hope that I give some inspiration to those in this great hobby. Just pulled down Cooper #2... starting to have a look at what stage I was at with the build 3 years back.... have an issue with PG tyres having gone soft and mushy... turned red, for some reason... kept out of the light under a drawer.. no idea what's going on there... anyone else suffered this?... they have not been touched by any chemicals other than the aluminium wheels....... absolutely no idea. frats, Rosco
  3. OS-62..... Patto tells me that floor polish should be fine. I like to compound my finishes.. and I am yet to find out if the floor polish can be worked... just me, but I really like a mirror finish.. and just a touch of weather in the right places to bring the model to life... a tiny bit of brake pad dust, and some exhaust haze.... only enough to be just seen... many wouldn't see it, unless told... but, to me - it makes a huge difference in a realistic finish.... far too many "plastic" cars in the population that have just come out of the dealer's showroom.. weathering is an art in itself... I would not ever suggest I have mastered or am even good at it, but I like to add just a tiny bit ..... it is particularly important in model railways.. the difference between a toy and a model.... I will clear lacquer over the floor polish, OS-62.... and compound it. Tamiya make a good set of compounding products.. a coarse (red cap) fine (blue cap) and finish (white cap).. I have used them to good effect on bare plastic models with no coating at all.. they can also be coated over - there isn't any oil in them. A good wash in warm soapy water and a rinse then compressed air dry provides a good finish over which to clear coat and add a bit of protection. frats, Rosco
  4. Thanks Caddo, can anyone tell me what type and size tool I need for the screws on the T/S chassis/body mounts?... I have posidrive, but even my smallest won't fit this pattern. frats, Rosco
  5. Thanks John and Phil... noted. I don't have any issue with copying company manufactured models, as far as I am aware - once you purchase something - you are allowed to copy it - but for your own personal use only.. which is my practice.... won't be copying anything of yours.. if I want more of what you have sent me, I'll re-order - your castings are superb. No plans for using Pinkysil for a while yet.. but should have some castings made up from some of my railway molds in a day or two... "Life" stuff has got in the way of modeling for the next few days, so I'll probably be a bit quiet on the forum until we come out the other side.... just normal stuff, but it seems to all have come up at once.... thanks again, frats, Rosco
  6. Thanks Matt, exactly the reply I was hoping for... I will mess around with a few of the railway Type E molds that are 40 years old, and look like they were made yesterday... Nothing extravagant... but I should get a feel for this Easy Cast.... I knocked out many models from those molds - some of them a little tricky, requiring brass rod to be incorporated in some of the more delicate parts... once painted, no-one would ever know.. and they simply don't fracture... Hope to have something up tomorrow night.. Pinky sill will follow - maybe just something small at first.... until I find out how that responds to what I intend to do with it. As for slush casting - no, not at this stage... no intention of doing a full body as a single mold or cast. The parts for the railway model were all molded before assembly.... so, I am just making parts... have never done a full mold.. and probably don't have one on the horizon. I will not copy another person's work either.. I'm pretty fussy about my own hand made stuff.. and respect those who have provided me with their work... there are two great suppliers on this forum.. I have no intention of interfering with their great service... frats, Rosco
  7. Thanks Bram, not aware that T/S are related to NSR.... I am yet to purchase an NSR.. but am in the throes of considering the Mosler... the AW version... your thoughts? If Armchair did a white kit version, I'd probably jump at that.. I have a Mr. Slotcar GTR McLaren white kit to build now.... be good to do two kit models at the same time...saves a lot of messing around in paint stages... The GTR went loosely fitted together almost "thrown up in the air and landed"... just a couple of fitting holes that needed a touch with a needle file - great kit.... I suspect it to be a variant of Slot-It.. there are quite a number of very "familiar" parts in the MS GTI. frats, Rosco
  8. Thanks Grant. My plan is to almost repeat what I did when I cast molds of train parts 40 years ago... I used (still have it) a sheet of glass about 6" x 6".... that is the base on which I mounted my prepared parts. I made up a "fence" around the mold using icy pole sticks held together with cyano... and reinforced on the glass plate with chunks of plasticine. I also held the parts on the glass plate with plasticine...just a very thin film of it -but enough to prevent them sliding around or getting out of place on the glass sheet. I then mixed up my Type E and brushed the first film over the areas likely to trap air bubbles... once I had a coating on everything - I simply poured in the rest. I made up a vacuum chamber by using a Pyrex lid... the base was a piece of laminex board with a thin layer of neoprene rubber over it.. this provided the seal for the Pyrex lid. I had an old compressor and simply connected up a hose to the inlet of that.... so, I had vacuum. Because the Type E took up to three days to cure out.. and the mix was very thick - it would "ooze" rather than flow... I had to keep the chamber under vacuum for about 10 minutes... for all the air bubbles to come to the surface... then I could slowly destroy the vacuum and the Type E would settle back down into the frame.... I was amazed at how many tiny bubble continue to come the surface and "pop" - even up to 10 minutes.... Once cured out - the molds were perfect..... I made one of a $2 coin.. and even a fingerprint on the surface of the later casting was as clear as that on the coin... Type E was a great molding media - but very expensive and tricky to work with... I'm hoping this Pinkysil will be a lot easier, and I won't need to rebuild my "chamber"... As for the casting media - I have used Araldite "M" before - and wasn't really happy with that... I did quite a few castings with it, but only to use up the stuff.... it simply wouldn't hold shape.. and often deformed in just a short period of time. My favorite casting media was Plasti-bond... and I made quite a number of successful railway model casts from it... I still have them, and they are as good as the day I made them... see pix.... top - the original in clear gloss.... ,bottom - a Plasti-bond copy finished in Estapol satin... I have never used modeling clay before - so, this will be a new stage in modeling for me... I don't yet know how it holds it shape when fitted to something and the Pinkysil is poured over it.... how firm it remains, or what results in the mold when it is removed... in apertures, it's possible to doing some lettering identification work... just messing with thoughts at present.... Pix... Original Clone - this was my first ever attempt at both making a mold and casting from it. You can see in this clone, the I had not removed all the air bubbles from the surface of the original.. when the mold was made. If you look at the hinge and latch area, you can see lots of little round "bumps"... there is also one under the top rail of the wagon... mid-way across the right. I made about 20 of these wagons to make up an empty wheat train.... they all have these "bumps".... all cloned alike. They can be easily flicked off with a sharp scalpel, but at that stage in my experimenting - I was not aware of this. The pix have both models a little distorted... I just shot them as they are on display on one of the shelves in this room - using my little Box Brownie... up very close, hence the distortion in profile... Pix... I have made around 30 molds ... this was the first one. They improved a heck of a lot once I invented my vacuum chamber set-up.... and even better still when I began to brush a thin film over the parts before pouring in the body of the mold.... We'll see what comes of Pinkysil - but first, I will mix up some Ezy Cast and try it out in a railway model mold.... hope the forum doesn't mind if I post results here.... I simply don't have any slot car related molds yet.. but, they will come... frats, Rosco
  9. HI folk, I put up a question to the forum a little while back and it didn't "snag" any response... so, I'm starting a thread on the topic... Mods - please delete or re-direct if one has already been made... I did a search, but it did not come up with any topic, just some mention of Pinkysil.. So... went on line yesterday and again today... in search for Pinkysil.... each link I chased returned the same result "none in stock".. unless I wanted to go for 10 kg's of it... I then phoned the proprietor company, Barnes - who have a retail store in Brunswick, Melbourne... and the lovely young lass told me she had some on the shelf.... I gave her my name - and set off.... an hour's journey in the truck (has Navman)... and a nightmare of traffic in the Brunswick/Sydney Road area.... Went into the store and quickly grabbed the last 1 kg kit off the shelf..... I then asked about casting material - told her it was for model train parts and possibly looking at something which could withstand some punishment... as in a slot car body etc.... no intention of doing one at this stage... I have a Datsun 280Z that might get done... but I'm more focused on parts... She directed me to another Barnes product called "Easy Cast"... which has some flexibility, but is very viscous... meaning it should result in very high detail... so, I bought the 1.9 kg pack of that as well. Walking up to the counter, I spotted some modeling clay... and have read in this forum the issues with using some varying types of clay to make perimeter boundaries and filling apertures of items to be cast etc.... asked her how it reacted with both Pinkysil and Easycast... "made for it"... was the reply - so, bought a 1 kg slab of that as well.... oil based modeling clay, non-hardening. So, folk... I'm armed.... I have some locomotive bogie sideframes to make a casting up first... which is why I wanted to chase this up a few weeks back.. but I am considering having a bash at making a mold of the brass grille I made for the LJ.... I have many Dow Corning silicone molding rubber Type E molds that I'm hoping the Easy Cast will work well with... I am keen to see how good it is for the very fine detail results I got from the Type E.... Ok - pic.... any suggestions... and, has anyone used Easy Cast before... any tips... it looks very "fluid" to me... working time of 2 minutes - cure time 15 min plus.... Also, any tips for using PInkysil and the modeling clay.... the clay is re-usable... I'll keep all of these products in a dark and fairly constant temp storage area.... frats, Rosco
  10. "Good thinking Max".... I might just have a little peek and see if I can make an improvement.. All four tyres clear my base... but, the rear ones sure are close to it... much, much better than having them sit on the deck - and then clamp them down with a cam or screw... and place the tyres on permanent compression in storage, Bram... I'll probably add some packing on top of the base mount as well.... so that when the model is nipped up with the screw - the pod is supported flush with the packing.... Did you note that the motor is slightly angled?... I'm sure they have done this for a reason... unlike Slot-It sidewinders which run square to the motor... Any thoughts? frats, Rosco
  11. It took me a fair bit of "decyphering", Peter.... but I think I have all the lettering. It's really good quality decaling... very sharp - but just "so" small....... here are a couple of really close up pix to clarify them... frats, Rosco
  12. Got it....... the wheel, more to the point. My suspicion is that Thunderslot made a "one size fits all" interior for all the differing Elva models... and this one just happened "not" to be the chosen one for the job lot.... Bram, yes - my car... and yes - T/S have gone one further with their jewel case base... and provided a raised section for the model to sit on..... keeping the tyres up off the deck. I really wish that other manufacturers would adopt this practice. I c/a icy pole sticks to my case bases to effect this..... maybe not so bad for you track junkies - where your models get a regular run to keep the tyres round.... but many of mine sit in their cases for years on end .... and I found with some of them - "flats" develop on the tyres..... maybe something for others to consider... more specifically - slot car manufacturers... Chequered flag to OS-62... I could have been pedantic and waited for "wheel" to come up ...but I'll wave the flag for your answer... frats, Rosco
  13. I noticed that this model does not appear on the Armchair catalogue.... My suspicion is that all allocated Elvis models were gobbled up before they were even shipped... It's a great looking model, Peter.... does yours have the fault line join on the driver's side (well, right hand side)?.. It shows Bruce McLaren and Elvis Presley as drivers on the right side... along with Bruce McLaren and another driver I can yet make the name of... they are lower down on the body sill. Did you true the tyres?.. or just ran them on the tread pattern... I don't believe I'll touch mine.... this model won't be a performer... although I'm probably wasting an awful lot of potential.... I have bought it not only for the great looks, but because it's probably the only "Elvis" car I'll ever own... frats, Rosco
  14. Yes, smaller Goodyear letters front and rear... but that's not "it".... worth another shot. Think outside the square..... and think "5".... frats, Rosco
  15. Sorry to disappoint those expecting the final two wheels.... no work done today, lot of catching up around the house and in the garage... plus - too darned hot to be turning a lathe. And.... lots of mopping up in here... drool over the floor - after getting the latest of two additions to my slot garage... the little Elva is exquisite... see new thread with 9 pix. Wheels tomorrow... pix tomorrow night.. trust me, I was with the government.... sort of.. frats, Rosco
  16. Hi folk, AusPost delivered two of my latest purchases today - A Mr Slotcar Mclaren F1 GTR white kit, and this amazing Thunderslot McLaren Elva Mk.1. I was particularly taken with the Elva McLaren when I viewed it coming up as a pre-order. This is the car that Elvis drove (supposedly drove, but at least he sat in it) in the 1965 movie.... The detail is very good.. lovely, in fact. I am yet to pull off the body from the chassis - Thunderslot, apparently - use a different screw.. looks like a posidrive, but until I get out all my little special bits.. I haven't been able to get "under the bonnet".... Some pix.... I hadn't noticed the join line until viewing the close up pic of the drivers names.... it's on both sides and I'm a little unsure why it's there. The joint is secure... it could have been sanded down better prior to painting... unless it is prototypical of the model.. Also, for those who have now seen the pix.... did you notice anything "wrong" with detail.... again, unless this is also proto-typical.... clue - take a look a the wheels..... all the wheels... As for the configuration being "sidewinder"... this is a bit of a rouse.. for, the motor is angled slightly... and the crown is very thin.. like an anglewinder... I don't know if this is Thunderslot practice... and I suspect this will not be the last Thunderslot model I purchase.... so far, very impressed.. The very fine mesh each side of the engine is worth drooling over.. I love this detail - it is rare to find it in slot cars.. but identifies a clear delineator in model railways... I have included a pic of the model mounted in the jewel case base..... take note! other manufacturers... if Thunderslot have the nouse to include a raised platform which keeps tyres up off the deck - so should you... and avoid me having to glue icy pole sticks to my jewel cases for every other model I have purchased.... please - take notice of this very nice little addition.. some thought put into the preservation of the model here... not just marketing presentation... This little model will not get a run until October.. when we set up our layout for Bathurst weekend... along with the additional 8 other models I have amassed since last having a track to run on... It will not be used as a competition car.... it, like so many of my others - is a collector..but, I will use it... I know my wife will fall in love with this car... along with the Corvette Stingray I bought her a couple of years back... she loves that car.. always have, and when one came up on the Carrera list... I simply had to get it for her..... along with the 9 1/4 inch Makita saw - I bought that for her too.... I just knew she'd love it... so, didn't hold back.... by golly, I'm such a kind and thoughtful person, aren't I? Ok.. happy to answer any questions on the model... there is also another two drivers names beneath Hill and Presley... one is Bruce McLaren.. I have not been able to squint hard enough under a magnifying glass to make out the other one.. this detail is absolutely miniscule.... I'll add some more pix when I get the bonnet up.... frats, Rosco
  17. If you find the plans for one of those, Shayne.... make sure you make a copy for me.... by golly, could I make use of some of them here at present.... frats, Rosco
  18. OS-62.... don't be too keen on the chassis part of the build... it will be pretty basic. This model was never intended to be up at the top of the leader board in performance.... but, it will go... and should run very sweetly.. Two more wheels, and we are finally onto the builder board.... I'll let the paint pull down a bit more during the week before blocking back again and compounding.... we can then get stuck into applying Patto's great decals... Pulled out the little Munter Cooper "half-built" last night... have to get that finished off for the upcoming Tasman Proxy series.... so, we know where we are going after this build. Also, arriving today - a Mclaren Elva white kit.... and the Elvis Mclaren... more work! frats, Rosco
  19. Can't tell you where it's gone, Shayne... but I seem to have accumulated a lot more models (in a number of varying hobbies) .... they just "seem" to be breeding without me really noticing... PM sent re wheels. frats, Rosco
  20. Hmmmm.... Shayne - if you saw the work that goes into producing the wheels... not to mention wheels #1 through #25.... some of the earlier ones taking more than one day to make each..... well..... I suppose I could make them... but, no-one could afford me.......... even at poverty hourly rates.... I have 24 wheels looking at me each time I go into my spare parts box.. that's enough for six models. Most of them are fairly good.. there are about 5 or 6 which I would never fit to a model.. but as a static display - they'd be fine... I made an awful lot of mistakes... as I do when I learn something new... but I believe I have wheels for models I have not even considered yet.... along with the purchased Slot-It ones that are now surplus to this build... and tyres... So, my question to you is...... when are you going into production?.... it's a part of this great hobby which really begs more people to have a go at than have yet to consider it. Aside from the lathe.... there are only a few lathe tools necessary for turning up reasonable wheels like this.... two lathe cutting tools, one centering drill bit, two drill bits and one M2 tapping bit..... plus the aluminium rod. However, I also appreciate that in my soon to be 11 years of retirement, I have become very selfish - and forget that people simply don't have days on end to while away on what becomes obsessive demand.... I am looking forward now to starting the chassis build... the motor/axle bracket made last year will make a re-appearance... and I will finally get to use the scratch builder's jig from the PSM.... The body and these wheels were always going to take me a long time to get up for the project - the next stages will go very fast in comparison... frats, Rosco
  21. Ok folk.... wheels - but first... lathe, what a difference these angular contact bearings have made to my lathe.... it is far more accurate now than it has ever been. I backed off the pre-load before starting on wheels today.. and re-set it... the bearings now have about 4 hours running on them, and I believe they are now bed in... So, armed with access to this wonderful machine, I set off to make some new wheels for the tyres I believe are a much closer scale size than any of the others I have tried. For those who want specs.. these are what I have come up with, and it all works well together. The tyres are MJK 4272. The wheel specs are - overall rim diameter - 14.2 mm (shown as reference "E") rim diameter - 11.8 mm (C) Overall rim width (minus hub) - 7.0 mm (D) Step width - 3.0 mm (F) Rim width each side of step - 2.0 mm Hub diameter - 5.0 mm Hub width - 3.0 mm Insert recess diameter - 10.75 mm Insert recess depth - 3.25 mm Ok.. some pix... It annoys me no end, to see wheels that have inserts (centres) that are not "centred".. but wobble.... I decided that with all the detail I am putting into this model, I'd try something new to centre the insert in the wheel.... In the pic below, you can see that I have marked out the very centre of the insert using dividers.. I then used a pin vice and starting with a 0.5 mm drill bit... drilled through the absolute centre. I worked the drill bit sizes up until I got to a #54 (1.4 mm) drill bit.. and then tapped the hole with a 10BA tap..... I was then able to fit the tap with insert fixed into the keyless chuck of my little Dremel... I'd be lost without this amazing tool. Spinning the machine over at the lowest speed, and using one of the rubbing blocks bound with 360 grit wet/dry.. I "turned" down the insert until I came up on the very edge of the bevel part of the insert.. The "bevel" came up at exactly at 10.75 mm..... and the reason I set that measurement for the recess in the wheel.... In the next pic, you can see that the bevel of the insert flows out nicely onto the inner rim... and I believe this will look great when I have painted the centre of the spokes in chrome.. with the surrounding part of the insert in black..... as was these amazing wheels chosen by the HDT for the LJ.... And......just as a bit of a tease... I simply had to do this... Not sure where the ride height will be until I design and build the chassis - but I suspect the rear wheels/tyres will fit in somewhere around this.... Excuse the yet to be compounded clear coat.... you can see that it was applied "copulously"... still pulling down, then we compound and start work with Patto's decals of PB's Bathurst winning LJ XU-1... I have high hopes for this model. Few pix... just messing around.. And, as a visual contrast - the difference between the wheels and tyres I have swapped to - with the previous pair on the right hand of the axle.... I do very much like the look of the smaller and narrower tyre.... it is yet to be trued down with the Tire Razor (sp) which will take a fair bit more out of the diameter and footprint width. Ok.. that's if for a bit now.... two more wheels and inserts to do, then we can start work on the chassis... I have dreamed up a different approach to the front axle.... all will be revealed as the build continues... Until next... frats, Rosco
  22. Hi folk, more testing.. But first - lathe..... as far as I can tell, I am now ready to go with turning wheels for the LJ. I set the lathe up today and took a test cut.... by golly, the old bearings and pre-load must have been way out... I'm a bit puzzled as to how I got the results I did... From the first cut - I knew..... this machine has never cut like it does now.... I can take such fine cuts that the material simply floats in the air...suspended, it's that fine.. and the finish of the cut is simply lovely.. still get the odd gouge here and there, my feed rate/speed/cut are nowhere near perfect.. but, I turned down some ali rod that was used on the last wheel I turned before the big replacement... then did a couple of passes with the HSS finishing tool I made..... pretty happy.. Pic.... I'll now set about writing down the specs for the new wheels - to fit the MJK Cortina/Escort tyres... hopefully, this time next week - we'll have four wheels.... with tyres fitted... and maybe even inserts... So - further to the above re floor polish, decals and lacquer paint... I have absolutely no qualm about spraying Tamiya clear lacquer over floor polish... I sprayed floor polish over the decals of the second Shadow today... left it one hour, then sprayed some of the decanted TS-13 plus a little more lacquer thinners mixed in... I used the Patriot this time to spray - and it is just as lovely as the others.... I'm not good yet at triggering the paint.. but have found I can simply hold down the trigger and keep the air continuous.. and am learning to pull back the trigger for paint flow.... fan width... and shutting it off again at the end of the stroke... all the time, keeping the trigger "down" ... never going to run out of air - with 14 cfm supply at hand.... Here is a pic of the Shadow - just after it was sprayed with lacquer clear coat.. the floor polish may have been "just" a little on the wet side... but I got impatient.. as I do, sometimes.... pic.. Lighting does not really do the finish justice.... you can see some parts of it where the reflection reveals just how good this paint is, using an airbrush... it "floods" on beautifully and flows out even better... I believe I'm now converted for using lacquer as a final top coat... So, Mr. Impatience... got the better of me.... raced inside and grabbed the LJ... didn't wash it, clean it... just dusted it off.. and sprayed two light coats of the lacquer clear directly over the compounded acrylic.... absolutely no issue either... well, not with the paint or reaction.. but, in my haste - just one "hair" found its way onto the roof.... and "bazingo!"... I now have a hair to compound out... Reality is, this was always going to be a test run... the coat is very thin.. just two passes.... PIc was taken less than 30 seconds after the second pass.. you can see it is still wet.... As it is now, it has pulled down beautifully... but, I'll compound it tomorrow and apply another coat of lacquer clear... then - we look to Patto's decals... maybe a compound before that... but it shouldn't need much of one.... I have every confidence now that Tamiya TS-13 can be applied over the Tamiya acrylic solids... Pic... You can clearly see "that" hair..... if I'd been my usual nervous "Myrtle".. I'd have washed, blown dried and air dusted this before spraying it... not to mention mounting it on a stand to spray... I simply grabbed it, raced it out to the booth in the garage... and "shot" paint... Ok... wheels tomorrow - and I will compound this clear coat on the LJ.. and respray - with all the care and attention that should have been applied today... frats, Rosco
  23. Ok folk, Update on testing paint, decals and floor polish... I'll leave the locomotive body alone from here for now.. and just post on results from the Scalextric shadow. One exception, I didn't have one issue pop up with over-coating Tamiya acrylic with Tamiya clear coat with lacquer thinners... in fact, I'm impressed - it was able to be handled within two hours of "flooding" the acrylic with lacquer based clear.... Next up - overcoating Pascoe's self-shining floor polish with lacquer.... same deal - no reaction, and the clear coat went off just as fast as that applied to the loco body... At the same time, over-coating the compounded side of the floor polish had exactly the same response - nothing... So... win, win, win... I do know, I can't clear coat Patto's decals with lacquer ... or even Tamiya acrylic clear coat... but the self-shining floor polish won't affect them, and I now know the acyrlic or lacquer won't affect the floor polish... Just a couple of pix - first up, the left side of the Shadow - previously coated with floor polish then compounded with Tamiya fine compounding polish... we see here that the lacquer based clear coat over the top of the compounded floor polish suffered no reaction at all... not a good pic, but the gloss factor is even greater than the floor polish gloss..... Second pic is a bit of a close up on the decals..... these were bare under the floor polish, then compounded - but not washed..... the lacquer clear was sprayed (flooded even) over them to see if there was going to be a reaction... there wasn't... Pic.... I am further happy to report, the lathe is back together and about to be checked for accuracy - so, hope to make a start on the LJ chassis wheels.... very soon... watch this space... Next, and this is totally off topic, but I don't want to start a new thread which will be very short lived.... airbrushes... Here is a pic of my five airbrushes.. the last one came in just a couple of days ago. They are all Badger brushes, the one at the bottom of the pic is my faithful little 200 syphon brush... I have used this brush for 39 years... it must have had ten gallons of paint go through it by now, and has been used from everything between very fine misting of weathering.. right up to a 2" fan with auto paint when i sprayed the plenum chamber intake grille of my 1:1 scale EK Holden... in all that time, I have only had to replace one needle and one tip.... it has been an amazing brush. Few pix... At top, the Patriot 105 Second from top, Arrow - which is almost an exact duplication of the Patriot - but has a much smaller paint cup for getting into tight places. Both these brushes have a 0.5 mm needle/tip set.. The middle brush is probably going to become my favorite.. it's the 360... just such a versatile brush. I can be used as a gravity fed or syphon bottle brush.. The barrel can be rotated through 360 degrees, so you can just about put either the paint cup or bottle where you want when forced to work in a confined space. It has a 0.8 mm needle/tip set.. but I used this spraying the very thin floor polish yesterday - and it was capable of being able to spray a very fine line, for the larger needle/tip size.. Next down, is the Rolls-Royce of airbrushes... the Sotar (Stare Of The Art Results - acronym). It has additional features which allow the very fine setting of the amount of needle retraction - and it is scaled to 0.01 mm increments... so that exacting settings can be returned to for various delicate jobs.... I have not used this brush yet... but am very keen to load it up with some thin paint and see just how fine it can spray at... it has a very fine 0.21 mm needle/tip... And at the bottom - we have my faithful little 200.. which will not be used much from now on... maybe for larger jobs ... but I doubt that it will get much of a go now that the newer brushes have arrived. I am including a pic of the front of these brushes as well.. and a close-up of the Sotar brush... that needle is certainly very much exposed - it will demand great care in use. I am amazed at the incredible machining of this set... the spacing around the needle in the tip is exact... amazing for such a small needle... Pix... And to close off this post... I decanted the remainder out of some Tamiya TS-13 lacquer clear coat aerosol today... and it is now in a 30 ml bottle ready for use.... It stinks to high heaven.. but I am a firm believer that this lacquer paint will outlive any acrylic in the rigors of slot car use... as Phil has laid testament to... Ok, folk - that will be it for a little while now - work will start on turning the LJ wheels very shortly - then I can settle in to building a chassis for it.... with the added side distraction of clear-coating and applying decals to it.... Until next.. frats, Rosco
  24. All my US orders have now arrived.. no complaints. However, I was offered a 2 month free trial of Amazon prime, which I took.... and shipping was express and free... All arrived safely, but I can't explain why two of the six packages came via Fastway - and the others came via AusPost... The last package arrived today - two packs of model locomotive axle gear sets.. AusPost. I have two more to come, one from a forum member here who is kindly sending me a couple of things.. and a Tamiya pack of the three polishing compounds plus rubbing pads and polishing cloths ($35 AUS, shipped if anyone is intersted). frats, Rosco
  25. Thanks for clearing that up for others following this, Vinno..... I was hoping no one would put it in the microwave.... but...... frats, Rosco
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