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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Yes Phil, completely forgot about that one.... I have the MRRC (which I believe is also Airfix) Alan Jones Williams..... it has a steering front end with independent front wheels.... I bought a "spare" front end for that model - I was always doubtful that it would "last".... but, it has.... and it runs very well. I put a larger motor into it than as supplied and it was "the" rocket of the '80's when I was in the hobby for a spell at that time in my life.... frats, Rosco
  2. I have a free-wheeler bike, Kevan..... no brakes..... back pedaling doe nothing but make noise.... I'll explain the method if it works.... certainly adds more work to a front axle... but may pay off in handling.... You'll need a 10 BA tap and some 10 BA counter-sunk screws...... if I say any more, I'll give the entire invention away... Hint... take a close look at the outside surface of an aluminium wheel..... when we make these, we use a centering drill - and it puts a bevel into the end of the hub... that should give it all away.... I went this way, because I didn't want to destroy my wheel inserts every time I needed to fit new front tyres. Ordinarily, one would simply loosen off the grub screw and pop the wheel off.... but my front wheels are not grubbed - they are fitted with the Slot-It eyelets into a hollow axle...... This involves destroying the wheel insert to get the eyelet out... I wanted better than that and came up with this screw arrangement.... so far, it works - but, be warned - you'll gouge out the end of the wheel unless you dress the chamfer on the BA screw..... the slot in it, if damaged with a screwdriver will make a very sharp tool for gouging out the end of the wheel hub.... I've come up with a way around that too..... Until I give this a 1,000 laps - I won't know if it works... or will not fail in running...... and, as is my usual practice/luck..... if it can go wrong - it will, and at the worst possible time. Adjusting the screw does away with shimming altogether... a tiny bit of c/a on the thread will lock the screw into the axle - but not enough so that it can't be removed... And - to access the screw once fitted to a wheel - simply drill the centre of the insert out.... do all your re-tyring/adjusting etc. etc..... and plug the little hole with a dollop of putty and paint over...... Do i need to patent this idea?.... or has someone preceded me....? There you go - back pedaled and changed up a gear in the process.... remember where you heard this first... frats, Rosco
  3. Not sure that it will work, Kevan... and whether it is worthwhile for the amount of effort involved. Involves tapping the end of each side of the axle... as mentioned, a lot of work - probably to no avail.... and one more thing a car can be sent home as a "dnf".... frats, Rosco
  4. Thanks Phil... I have never cast my own tyres... (yet)... I know nothing of the process nor ingredients... or the shore outcomes. Again, thanks for clearing this up. frats, Rosco
  5. I notice in this pic, if you look very closely at the air intake - as will the Bill Patterson Cooper T-53 I modeled previously - there are two vertical fins inside the opening.... this is the second Cooper I have seen these..... anyone care to elaborate? My guess, is that the fins directed air flow to the left and right... and there was an opening at the rear of the front cowl directly pointed to the brake discs....? frats, Rosco
  6. Thanks for clarifying, Phil..... my little #2 Cooper is set at 48 mm... same as #1 in the previous proxies. Tyres... hmmm.... my models may go years without being taken down from the "vault".... it seems wasteful to fit urethanes to them if this is normal service life. I have not suffered any loses with MJK's as yet.. and some of those are now over 8 years old.. don't know if they are urethane, but they grip fairly well.... and are easily trued. The PG ones certainly had some grip, but unless you are running these models frequently - it's a price that is probably not justifyable... not to mention the work in replacing and truing them. frats, Rosco
  7. Thanks Chris, much appreciated. I virtually copied this second build from the first.... the little car went very well in the series. I agree with both you and Kevan on the very wide track.. there is a Cooper T-53 revision three in the wings... that one might be my scale model... that never goes on a Proxy adventure.. I prefer to think of #1 as a "winner" car that is a bit like a racehorse that has been sent into retirement... still gets a run around the track,, but never under threat of injury. #2 will probably be the annual Proxy car..... and I'll more than likely just change tyres and braid (and any calateral damage suffered) each season... #3 will be "scale".... and as much detail as I can thrust upon it.... I do love these little Coopers... Thanks for your reply, Chris... about to use the scratch builder board for the first time on the LJ Torana XU-1 Peter Brock build.... I have a "new" way of running the front wheel/axle... think you'll approve... details pending... frats, Rosco
  8. Ok... another big day.... blocked back both Cooper #1 and #2 then sprayed Tamiya fine grey primer over both. I used the Badger 360 airbrush again and am getting more confidence with each session... but, I must remember to press down on the trigger before pulling it back for paint.... a couple of times I didn't.. and "drips" came out and onto the model... fortunately this was early in the session and the following passes gobbled them up.. plus, it's only primer.. not top coats - has to be sanded back anyway.... So, here they are.... in grey primer...... guide coat tomorrow then block down and we'll see how much work there is to be filled or blocked down... Pic.... frats, Rosco
  9. rosco01

    Nissan Bluebird

    Ouch..... rarity often drives the price up.... Have you checked with the two great casters in this forum OS-62... I expect you have..... but.... frats, Rosco
  10. Thanks Kevan, lots of work to go yet... but #2 won't get the detail that #1 did. As for track - when I built #1 - they track looked huge on that one as well.... when the suspension arms and dampers were added - it seemed to consume that excess. I am working on 48 mm outside to outside specs.. which are within the rules for the Tasman Cup Proxy.... If I wanted to bring the model back into proto-type spec for wheel-track, it's only a matter of four grub screws.. but, I don't believe they would be more than 1 mm too far out at each wheel... which is 2 mm of track excess... We'll see how it looks when I have added the suspension - I believe you'll see that this apparent huge excess is all but gobbled up . By the way, that looks like "Black Jack" behind the wheel? frats, Rosco
  11. Ok folk, back into Cooper T-53 production mode again - LJ is now on back burner until I get this model up for the Tasman Cup proxy this year.... Lot of time over the past two days.. sorted a lot of the bugs out that caused this model to go into mothballs and went to Cooper #1 for the T/C proxy in 2015. We are now in Protec Etch Pro primer... lots of body work to do, but we now have a rolling chassis and I'm pretty happy with how it has been brought into shape.... the crown has been shimmed nicely and the mesh is really good. A lot of work done on the front axle and wheels.... I have changed quite a few things from #1 - the result of which makes it much more user friendly and serviceable. I'm seriously thinking the same plan for the LJ... Suspension detail, exhaust and a bit of work on wheel inserts should just about bring the chassis up ready for this year - it does not have the huge amount of detail I went to with #1, but should look acceptable... I'll add suspension arms and springs.... that will just about be the limit for this model..... not the full torsion bar and link with brake drums and lines that I went to with #1..... There is a distinct difference in the two resin cast bodies... from our two most known suppliers. Both are great kits, but one just has the edge on the other - no names, no pack-drill..... I'm hoping to have colour on the body by the end of this week.... and the chassis should be getting close to having all its detail added. I am undecided as to tyres - currently, the trued PG ones are fitted - but are not glued.... Ok... couple of pix - "Protec" Etch Primer... thinned 2 paint/1 GP thinners.. this model will be finished in lacquer... poor #1 came back from the last TC series looking very sad... I don't believe I'll use acrylic again for a proxy series - it's too sensitive to fingerprints and whatever chemicals get thrown around during the events... #1 is back in the paint shop too.... stripped back to zinc chromate and resin. I'll give the etch prime a light rub tomorrow and then hit it with a few sacrificial coats of Tamiya fine primer - decanted from the aerosol and airbrushed... frats, Rosco
  12. You'd love it here then, OS-62 frats, Rosco
  13. I suppose you are correct, OS-62.... "if" I had more room - I'd have more "stuff"... frats, Rosco
  14. Sounds as if you are finding fulfillment in this hobby, OS-62... good stuff. I have a couple of HRS2 kits - one was planned for a 280Z.. but I'm leaning towards making up my own chassis for that.. and the HRS-2 can stay in wait for another day... I haven't run either of my refurbed little donor Bathurst Set cars yet... or any of the 8 plus cars I have picked up since the last time I put a track together... be a full on day just setting up the SCP-2 controller for each of them... Glad to learn you are enjoying what we hope will be a long lived passion for the hobby... frats, Rosco
  15. Ok progress pix... chassis and body as it currently stands.. frats, Rosco
  16. Hi Lenny, some of my entry details... Cooper - T-53 circa something between 1960 and 1964... probably won't follow an actual car with this build.. at present, considering metallic green over gold stripe (so that puts paid to original livery). Motor - SRP - 050 - SR181D41600 Wheels - Ranch Design - rear : WCF 15 x 6.2, front WCF 15 x 5.2 Crown PInion - Ranch Design, small version - crown aluminium 24 tth, pinion brass 9 tth. Tyres ( for now, but in poor shape) - Paul Gage. rear - 21072, front 20062 Body - Tassie Resins Chassis - piano wire/brass brackets 0.062" wire. Rosco built. Guide - Slot-It (unsure of number, but will update). Currently mid-way through build. Think that's it for now frats,' Rosco
  17. Bump - where did that 5 1/2 years go?... So, we're back on the bench with Cooper #2... just a little work done, in readiness for the March deadline for this year's Tasman Cup proxy series... Have almost picked up where the build was left off... sorting wheels - but my PG tyres have gone mushy and turned red - there may have been a "bad batch" and the 20 or so I ordered in are probably all from "that" batch... I have ordered some MJK tyres, which will be a close match - but need a bit of sanding down to meet specs... and slightly just a little wide in the step.. I have not had any issues with MJK tyres... and these are the first lot of PG ones.... no-brainer as to where I go next. I have filed down excess metal from the two brackets and also taken a bit more weight out of the body. I was able to tap the Slot-It guide post with an M2 set of taps and it is now nicely secure in the guide mount... adjusted down the post for a neat fit, without any binding.. Next up, we will begin to add suspension detail... and probably spray the body in a 1K etch.. and find out where the "voids" are for filling with putty... OK.. just an update for now.... #2 is back on the bench... frats, Rosco
  18. Wasn't mine, Bram.... I didn't post any pix of red tyres up... Just about to open my Cooper T-53 thread again... been a long time - we are in building mode, to get the next one ready for this year's Tasman Proxy... frats, Rosco
  19. Already done, Bram... I have chosen the closest MJK tyre to the wheels which Ranch Design made for my little Cooper... they will fit, and can be trimmed down to meet the Tasman Cup size rule... Keen to learn if anyone else has had issues with PG tyres going "off".... frats, Rosco
  20. Thanks Bram, sad thing is, I bought a lot of these.... at the same time. I seriously hope they do not all go off like seven of them have in storage. Have you had any issues with any other "batches" of them? I don't know if there is something that I have done, or something poor with the production... I'm now guessing, with you having some as well..... it may not be anything I have done... I have now ordered some close-match MJK tyres as back up - not perfect for the wheels I have, but they seem not to have any issues....... at least, of the many packs I have bought from MJK - not one of them has gone belly up in over 7 years.... frats, Rosco
  21. Thanks chaps.... I have just ordered the T/S screwdriver set.... seemed a bit silly to pay $19 for just one driver...when their pouch with 25 bits in it was only $6 more... plus the handle and pouch..... Yes - Torx.. don't have any of those which are small enough.... more tools to find a home for in this ridiculously crammed room..... anyone who has never visited here, simply has no idea what this room/workshop/study/model display room is like.... one way in, and only one way out.... not including the door..... moving around in here is simply a case of shifting the "passage".... Just ordered the T/S Mosler AW and also Elva Mk 1 Can Am white kit.. I now have a "little" problem..... the room is too "little"..... frats, Rosco
  22. Thanks OS-62...... not sure about "wealth"... but hope that I give some inspiration to those in this great hobby. Just pulled down Cooper #2... starting to have a look at what stage I was at with the build 3 years back.... have an issue with PG tyres having gone soft and mushy... turned red, for some reason... kept out of the light under a drawer.. no idea what's going on there... anyone else suffered this?... they have not been touched by any chemicals other than the aluminium wheels....... absolutely no idea. frats, Rosco
  23. OS-62..... Patto tells me that floor polish should be fine. I like to compound my finishes.. and I am yet to find out if the floor polish can be worked... just me, but I really like a mirror finish.. and just a touch of weather in the right places to bring the model to life... a tiny bit of brake pad dust, and some exhaust haze.... only enough to be just seen... many wouldn't see it, unless told... but, to me - it makes a huge difference in a realistic finish.... far too many "plastic" cars in the population that have just come out of the dealer's showroom.. weathering is an art in itself... I would not ever suggest I have mastered or am even good at it, but I like to add just a tiny bit ..... it is particularly important in model railways.. the difference between a toy and a model.... I will clear lacquer over the floor polish, OS-62.... and compound it. Tamiya make a good set of compounding products.. a coarse (red cap) fine (blue cap) and finish (white cap).. I have used them to good effect on bare plastic models with no coating at all.. they can also be coated over - there isn't any oil in them. A good wash in warm soapy water and a rinse then compressed air dry provides a good finish over which to clear coat and add a bit of protection. frats, Rosco
  24. Thanks Caddo, can anyone tell me what type and size tool I need for the screws on the T/S chassis/body mounts?... I have posidrive, but even my smallest won't fit this pattern. frats, Rosco
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