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rosco01

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Posts posted by rosco01


  1. Bump,

    I've just read this Cincy Cars thread.... wow, those blokes sure go to extremes.... I'm guessing there are many here who do likewise...

     

    So, does this procedure work with Slot-It standard can (orange,yellow and red) motors...? I note the application of lighter fluid... can we get this into these motors by a dropper application..?

     

    I was always wary that water and electric motors are a no-no... but this completely dispels that notion.... now, is it beneficial to use "de-mineralized" water.. or is this a must... ?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  2. Bump to previous post..... spent 3 hours making up a 5mm plate of steel - 190mm x 100mm.... ground it perfectly true using an oil stone.... well, there might be half the thickness of a sheet of printer paper in the maximum to the minimum... but I believe it's as good as you'll get from a metal supplier.

     

    Marked out the centres and length of the GT40 chassis on it... held it in place at "strategic" locations with magnets...

    Pre-heated with boiling water it in a Pyrex dish - then drained that and poured fresh boiling water over it...... placed a wooden chopping block over that and wrapped the entire thing with a folded towel...it's sitting in this room on carpet... and that would have been pre-heated as well.

     

    That should slow the cooling down process..... check it tomorrow when I get up.... should still be warm - but I'll leave it until the water goes cold...

     

    Again, digressing from the original post..... which was body post repairs.... maybe I should have started a new thread..... member's thoughts.....?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  3. Pleasure, Miverson.... it's not my idea.... I stole it from the micro-heli forums...... I have repaired many of my birds using the method - and they seem to stand up to my inept pilot skills....

     

    Thanks Wobble and Munter.... message received.

    I am currently fabricating a 5mm steel plate to straighten the chassis of all these models.... I have a lovely Pyrex dish (shhhhhh!) that won't get noticed missing for a few days.... might have to shout her out to dinner if she makes sounds in the kitchen that she can't find it....

     

    I'm not using the "oven" method - but will cover the dish and try to keep it warm by wrapping towels around it.... apparently from what I've read - it's the long, slow cooling down process that does all the work... I have quite a number of magnets now from models.... and also some little disc rare-earth ones... should be able to follow the pic in the thread to place them at strategic points around the chassis.....

     

    Yes, will keep some "play" in the chassis/body mount....

     

    I have really blown this thread apart into different off topic tangents.... apologies to the forum.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  4. Great thread... please keep it going..... it's an awful lot better than the funny pages (AKA as the national fish-wrappers, ummmmm "news"papers).

    When I first got my driver's license - had a fit finding out "Porepunkah" lived up near Bright...

     

    Oh, and welcome back Oldie.... green with envy of your 120.... how do you find time to play with slots?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  5. Notso, welcome back.

    I've just returned after a similar gap myself... but I'm staying analogue....

    So much has changed since I had more hair... and less wrinkles.... car quality has certainly evolved, and price has not overly leaped with it (income/purchase).

     

    Don't know whether it's an attempt to grasp my fast disappearing youth.. but I'm keen in this hobby/sport as ever... and in a position to outlay a little more dosh on my insanity ... which really is making decisions/choices difficult....

     

    I've doubled my number of cars already - and almost doubled the amount of track....

     

    You're a brave man making the quantum leap to digital... I wasn't... maybe one day, can't see it on the horizon, though... do have a couple of digital cars... both Carrera... metallic blue Cheetah and the Mark Webber RB-7.... they both run fine on analogue... but, if ever I get the chance to run someone's digital track.... I've got a couple I could "bring along"....

     

    Welcome back - please keep us up to date with developments...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  6. That's the news I've been waiting for, Ember..... do you (I expect you do) know how hard it is to find a Stingray Corvette....well, new one..... ?

    I'll be able to order an additional model when this one is released..... (not holding breath) - my wife want her "own" one of these in flame red... it's the only model she wants.... her last run on any track was back in 1985...... guess she's going to be a little "rusty"...

     

    I'm very glad that Carrera will release this... they produce excellent bodies... well, the ones I have are.....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  7. Thanks Munter,

    can I ask why not to tighten the body/chassis mount screws down?

     

    I'm guessing it is to prevent the body distorting the chassis?

     

    When you suggest "loose even" - I assume it is to the point of there "just" being a little feel of a rocking - not necessarily visual?

    This, I expect is to establish that the chassis is rigid in its own right - and the body is just sitting on it...... ? could be entirely off the beam here....

    Do we fit neoprene washers or some form of insulation between the post and chassis?.... I suppose I could take off the same amount of thickness from the body post (finally got back on topic) to compensate for the addition of a thin neoprene washer.

     

    Speaking of chassis's - I will make up a steel plate today to attempt to straighten one of these 5 GT40 chassis.... following the download doc on Slot-It.

     

    I now believe all mine are all out of true... not by much - but I can detect it just by visual looking at the wheels when they are all set at a measured distance from the chassis.

    I measured the diameter of the tyres - and also the distance from the axle to the chassis with a digital vernier.... when setting up the suspension and bushes. When I look along the length of the chassis - the tyres do not align in one plane...

     

    I don't have a set up plate, but might make one out of the chassis straightening plate I cut out today.... and just drill a series of holes through the centre of one end and then grind it out with the dremel for the guide slot.

     

    Is there a reason people use aluminium for a set up plate.... I could appreciate that it is to avoid any pull from magnets if using steel..... beyond that, I'm clueless........

     

    I'll try to straighten the unassembled GT40 kit chassis first.... this one is going to be my experimental GT40.... I've ordered a 25k/180 gm/cm Slot It motor for it (yellow)...I don't have to adhere to any class/club rules - not a member of one (yet... don't even know where the closest one is.... yet) so I can pretty much play around with this model.

     

    I have also ordered some ally hubs for this one.... and plan to add some weights here and there - I don't run magnets..... please, don't anyone start a thread war on magnets/not... I like mine to run free and enjoy running up to the point where they drift a little before letting go.... just me, I guess....

     

    Can anyone give me indication of the difference between the standard/stock 21.5k (orange) Slot-It motor and the 25k (yellow) one... these numbers are yet to mean anything to me other than a higher output potential.... there is both more rpm and more torque... but I don't yet appreciate just how much... I was going to go with the 29k (red) motor... but this time thought I'd just step one one level....

     

    I have also ordered the Tyre Razor, Wheel Buddy and some spares from Jon.... hope the aeroplane gets a tail wind........ if anyone wants to know PM me and I'll give you the cost (at today's ((Sunday, 05 Oct 14)) exchange PayPal rate.

     

    Now to glue some tyres to hubs.....water based contact cement.... guess the big red hammer place will have that.....?

     

    thanks again for your comments, Munter - much appreciated.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  8. Ok folk - timing is everything.... yes, although I "always" reverse screws into plastic before threading them to get that "drop" as the threads of the screw flop over the starting thread of the plastic mount.... I managed to turn down one of the mount screws in a Slot-It GT40 tonight.... don't know how it happened... I only ever "tweeze" a screwdriver gently between my thumb and forefinger until it seats... but this time.... it just kept going..... and I knew it was stripped....

     

    So, out with the C.A. and baking soda.

    I cleaned up the gap with a #1 X-acto blade and coated the outside of the post with CA.... then spread some baking soda over the broken slit and held it together with a pair of fine tipped bent pliers....... filed off the excess and voila - screw now locks body down to chassis as good as ever....

     

    I read somewhere that it's possible to cut a piece of styro tubing larger than a post.... and fit that over the broken section.... I believe you could fill the resulting hole with CA and baking soda.... let it completely go off - then drill and tap the now solid post..- and, of course - you'd use a BA screw in lieu of the coarse threaded screws most models come with.... might even add a nut into the CA/Baking soda drilled out hole then re-apply the mix to secure the nut......

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  9. Jon got back to me today.... and can supply me with the Tyre Razor, a spare pack of belts, and a tyre buddy, plus another sanding block.

    I've just asked him about the Lathe as well..... hopefully, I might have it all in a week or two....from the States to Oz.

     

    Ok - moving right along... more bad news...on this suspension upgrade....

     

    I set about fitting this suspension to my final running model today - this was the second edition #40 (green car) - (still have two more units to come and one RTR and the one unassembled car not yet touched)...

     

    It is the revised edition motor pod and chassis... I spent a good time comparing them both and there are a few differences... the extra pod mount holes for starters.

     

    I also found that in the later (revised) model - there isn't one of those rubbing block posts on the chassis I used on the first one... but instead a hole through the chassis and pod for the extra two mounts....

     

    On the earlier version - the pinion is fitted to the end bell side of the motor.... but the motor is mounted reversed so that the pinion is still on the same side....

     

    I fitted the suspension to the second series - and bummer! - it also fouls on the intake manifold and cowl like the #24 (red - first series) one I did two days back... so - no, folk - you still have to grind away with a Dremel if you want more than 1mm of suspension travel on the end bell side... bummer, Slot It - bummer.....

    I don't know why the yellow one (second series) did not have any issue... I still can't find any reason it doesn't rub.... it appears to sit just as far up into the body as all the others.. the intake manifold and cowl are the same size... the motor has the pinion on the can side.... and the end bell side gives me the 2mm I have predicted to allow the tyres to clear the inside of the wheel-arches...... jury is still out folk.....

     

    I've also fitted the spherical bushes to the front axle on this final car... one of the front axle posts on all these GT40 chasssis has been a very tight fit to fit a bush into.... the other one has been fine - perhaps it's a tooling error....

     

    And - I don't know why - but you can gain a bit of relief simply by reversing the bush in the slot - but it still binds.

     

    The grub screw does not have much meat to bite into when you use it to push the bush down in the slot....

    The other grub screws (M2 x 6mm) are fine for mounting from under the axle.

     

    The front axle certainly spins a lot free'er than before... with the axle aligned through both the bushes...and a smear of Inox.

     

    For those who have/are getting/thinking about the GT40 MK1 white un-assembled kit - it's the first edition... found that out tonight when I opened mine up....

    I would have hoped that Slot-It might have used the upgraded version in the current the white kit... but mine is definitely the four post/rubbing block version with pinion on end-bell side.

     

    Now - I did read a bit some time back on here about straightening chassis - and all of mine need it.... i found this out tonight, by accident....

     

    I don't have a set-up plate (yet) but found with equal distances in the wheel arches - there is a gap from one wheel to the flat piece of material I used... and it varies from model to model....

     

    I'm going to have to do the magnet/boiling water/leave overnight to cool trick on all these chassis to straighten them, I'm afraid.. then I'm going to need to set up all the travels ......AGAIN.

     

    I've got them set using the grubs so that all wheels are in the same plane..... but the gaps in the wheel-arches are all over the place.

     

    So, I guess what I'm saying is that there is probably not one of the GT40's ex factory which has a square/flat chassis.... and sadly, if you want to fit this suspension upgrade - you're going to have to grind some of that manifold and cowl away to get more than about 1mm travel on the end bell side...

     

     

    More to come on this, folk.... I'm not done yet...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  10. Thanks Peter,

    I've sent an email to the Tire Razor manufacturer SLIJon... hoping he'll get back to me in a short while.

     

    Yes, I've also found the MJK tyres I have fitted to some of my models seem to hang on a lot better than the OEM supplied ones.

     

    I only run Sport track - and might need to add a bit of my old Classic..... I expect it is on that where suspension might play a larger role.... the cars with MJK tyres certainly run well on new Scaley track... and also that which has been looked after with a bit of respect.

     

    Thanks again,

    much appreciated...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  11. Thanks Wobble and S-R... I've now made my bed and am happy to lay in it.... this has really worked out much better than anticipated.

     

    I took a look at the Lambo just after lunch today - having spent most of yesterday and all of this morning getting the Slot it Mk 1 GT40 suspension upgrade completed (big... no - read = huge job on the earlier version) and was going to post on the Lambo as I worked through it.... the front axle and fitting bearings as last discussed.

     

    When I went to measure where the axle should sit - I was amazed to find that somehow (whether by design or luck) - when I'd fitted that guide post mount - the wheels actually rested on the track hard up against the slot in the body mount... with the guide nicely positioned on the rails..... maybe this is why the Lambo all of a sudden become much faster around out layouts.... can't remember...

     

    So, now having that model sort of set up... and just waiting to fit bearings - or not... I decided to pull down the Ferrari C16 from the shelf and start work on it.....

     

    I'd more or less done a guide post mount some years back... when I also did the Lambo - but this model was in far better shape up front.. and only needed a bit of re-enforcing to take the short stem guide mount... baking soda and cyano... it's not a bad recipe.... and, you can "build" layer on layer... the cyano will go into cured baking soda and fuse the additional applications...

     

    So - now it's a good look at the Ferrari... and I find that on the track (don't have a set up board thingy, but use a piece of my latest 1/2 straight which is still pretty accurate.... the front axle is in limbo as the guide sits on the rails... there's so much slack in the axle - the wheels are virtually doing nothing but roll - and drag....

     

    I pluck up the courage to twist off one of the front wheels - and am surprised that it is still very tight... no knurling - as advised... then I pull out the axle.

     

    The Slot-It spherical bearings are a delight to slide over the 3/32" axle... and it runs very sweetly in them...

     

    I place the car on the track and measure up where the centre of the front wheels should be on one of the posts... then mark exactly on the other post.

    I then proceed to try and file a notch in each side - and after 1/2 hour or so give up..... get out the Dremel and mount a twist drill just smaller than the axle reversed into the Dremel... so that the shaft becomes the working part of the drill....

     

    The Dremel is kept on minimum speed and I eventually get some burring happening using only the chuck wear marks on the shaft of the drill... it cuts in nicely - and very controllable.

    When I had one of them almost to the shape I needed - I went for the file again and then kept working away until the bearing (located on the axle) was a tight interference fit....with just the outside of the bearing proud of the post (for the wheels to run on).

     

    I repeated this on the other post and finally managed to get a 3/32" drill bit to pass freely, but firmly in line through both posts - and luckily, centred at the marks I had made on the set-up track....

     

    so now, I temporarily fit the wheels to the axle and test it for position on the track with the guide and braid "just" free of being flattened on the rails... I don't know how I did it.. but it was just right first time....

     

    I carefully pull off the wheels again without disturbing the bearings and slide the axle out.

     

    The cyano and baking soda took to the post and bearing perfectly... and I built up each upper gap... filed them back all around and repeated the build until I was happy.

     

    The 3/32" drill bit made easy of removing any excess of build each time I added some... before it fully cured out.....

     

    Once I had the bearings in place, I then put the axle through and loosely fitted the wheels again.... no good filling the lower gaps if I needed to tweak the position... but it sat exactly as before... so I finished off the build on the lower side of the post...

     

    I filed them off flush, then finished off with that icy-pole stick and super-glued wet&dry I love to work with...

     

    I fitted the axle and measured the spacing across it to get each wheel equi-distant on the axle. (you'll see the fine texta marks on the baking soda in the pix below).

     

    When I'd finished I fitted the wheels and test ran the model down the track... I am very, very happy with the result... for the first time ever - this model sits squarely on the track and I am really looking forward to running it around a layout.....

     

    So, long winded - as always.. but here's the progressive pix....

     

    FerrariC16001_zps8382984a.jpg

     

    FerrariC16002_zpsd7d4c76b.jpg

     

    FerrariC16003_zpsc4af95d6.jpg

     

    FerrariC16005_zps4a4f358e.jpg

     

    FerrariC16007_zps2e5d957b.jpg

     

    The ride height is far too high on this model for me... but way back when - I fitted the replacement guide mount in the post holes of the original.... I did not do this with the Lambo... with free reign, I was able to run the mount way up further so that the stem of the guide "just" cleared under the bonnet.... I should have also done this to the Ferrari... but didn't... and now I have the bearings finished back and front... so, this little faithful model is going to run around with its head in the air - so to speak......

     

     

     

    FerrariC16006_zps46141af6.jpg

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  12. Ok second GT40 suspension upgrade finally completed... this one was huge compared to the first one... a little wiser - and the unpainted kit (which is probably the earlier version as mentioned) won't take so long to do.... and, I'll be just a bit more careful now knowing how thin that cowl and manifold intake becomes.

     

    Just waiting for Photobucket to upload... so patience folk - think there's 8 pix in this...brb

     

    Ok, as mentioned - this time I set out to remove the lateral slop in the motor pod... so, here you can see a few pix of how I added styrene card shims and filed them back..

     

    GT4024002_zps7cabcafe.jpg

     

    GT4024001_zpsd5210352.jpg

     

    In these ones, you can see how I very carefully shaved down the motor mount and pod side - so that it would freely slide/slip up and down on the new "rubbing block".

     

    GT4024003_zps720eb138.jpg

     

    GT4024004_zps48763b8e.jpg

     

    The body issue was next... along with the motor leads and capacitor.... the body was a series of relentless cuts and trial fits, I used a Dremel with a very fine/flexible paper sanding disc... and just "unlayered" very thin runs at a time.... each time re-fitting the chassis until I got the clearance I wanted....

     

    GT4024005_zpsf4a821db.jpg

     

    I spread a thin layer of cyano-acrylate over what was left to stiffen/harden it.... not pretty - and this will be addressed in the next model.. there's simply an awful lot of material removed here - but, with the first model I upgraded - none of this area was an issue....

     

    The motor wiring was afforded all the relief I could add.... it was this one area where the terminals/leads and capacitor sat on the end bell which was later found to be the main issue..... first time up - I removed material from the wrong side... and hence the pic shows both sides and the central part being made flush....

    You really only need to do the end bell area to gain clearance.

     

    You'll also note that in this model - the motor was very loose... so - hot glue.. and the Dremel came out again to clean it up (a bit, anyway).

     

    GT4024006_zpsf5bdc6d4.jpg

     

    Final two pix are of it at rest siting with springs unloaded - and second one under the 2 mm or so travel that I have set..... this was also the amount of travel I set in the first attempt in the above post (yellow GT40).

     

    GT4024008_zps64ac4c97.jpg

     

    GT4024007_zps291e582a.jpg

     

    I know it's not much of a difference - but if you look at the thin blue tyre line.. you'll see the drop....

     

    In this model (first time) I also fitted the optional bronze bearings and 4 grub screws into the chassis front axle assembly.... removing the plastic stopper...

     

    It is now possible to set both ends of the model.... I left a poofteenth of a gap between the grub scews on both sides of the front suspension... and yes, the front plastic wheels came off quite freely with a gentle push and twist... and went back on just as easily.

    I left only a small amount of lateral sway between the hubs... hoping it's enough to prevent binding when cornering....

     

    I believe I got the stance just about right..... the front wheels "just" touch the track with the braid fully flattened on the guide.....

     

    Sorry for the long wait.... it was indeed a long and protracted project....

     

    So, until I do the next one.... between the two different versions of this model - yes, I'd recommend the upgrade to the later version - maybe not for the earlier one....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  13. thanks again, S-R - yes, looking for some way to connect with the Tire Razor bloke.... I know he's here in Victoria... maybe even Melbourne somewhere... never know - might even be in the same street.....

     

    Do you have a link for him?

     

    I know Ember has one of these units and apparently they work great.... last I saw - they were around the $150 mark..... just have to wait until I get a link to him....

     

    Ok - WD40 is definitely out... for the MJK's. Thanks for the reference to the GT40 tyre size... next order - I might bang in a few....

     

    One further question - before I finally get to work on the old girl.... and post up some pix of the suspension upgrade (still developing - more grinding away up until lunch time).... what do you use to glue your tyres to the hubs.... mine are definitely "loose"... I believed they were bedded in quite well - but no, they're loose enough to shift around under load... and at great rpms...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  14. Thanks Kevin - yes, they are indeed old warriors these motors - thanks for the Johnson info... much appreciated.

     

    I have opened up these motors many times over the years.... knowing not to fully prise home the tags on the can.

    The windings are all good, commutators still have heaps of meat left on them. I do clean the commutator and very lightly oil each end of the shaft.

    They are old motors though - and there is wear in them... but I'm not changing them out.... they still run very well, albeit a bit noisily.... the new MJK tyres on the back have really brought these models into a new league... I believe I can get a bit more out of them by setting the front axle though.

     

    I have recently used Inox MX3 on a needle to lubricate bearings - including motors.... just the slightest hint of a lube job - certainly nothing which can get up onto the commutator.... if one snuffs it - I'll strip them all and re-oil with light sewing machine oil... I've got some of the aftermarket slot car oils - and wasn't that impressed... they are very "heavy" to my way of thinking... much like model train lubes..

     

    I use Parma white grease on the cogs and pinions though.... again, just a few smears... a short run on low volts - then wipe the excess off.... seems to work a lot better than what we did when we were kids.... by golly, I had some very "oily" cars running around the track for quite some time... and the fluff and much it used to attract.... no wonder these motors are now "noisy"......

     

    Yes, they are old, Kevin - but I love them ever so much.... I guess I'm struggling to let go of more of my past...... the replacement tyres, however - they'd have flung off sooner or later... so, for the main - I'm really trying to keep these two lovely old girls running.... with minimal noticeable change........well, to the non-purists, anyway.....

     

    thanks again, much appreciated.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  15. Thanks S-R (again).

    No - can't justify a $250 outlay... but might chase up a tyre razor if it will get close.

     

    Yes - I've fitted MJK's to many of my Scaley cars - and they are just magnets to the plastic track.... tend to get a bit grubby - but a dose of soapy water applied with a cotton bud and dried off brings them back to the original very "sticky" state..... might look to getting some to fit to the rear of one of these GT40's.... 15.8 x 8.2 - there has to be some MJK which will be a perfect fit for those ally hubs..... anyone know of it?... just to lazy to work my way through the copious MJK entries.. and am hoping someone has jotted it down.

     

    I've read somewhere in this forum about using WD40 ..... no idea why... maybe it cleans this type of tyre and makes is even more grippy.....

     

    Kevin at AR helped me get the MJK's for all the models I've replaced tyres on.... it made the MRRC FW07 into an absolute rocket... but nowhere near as fast as the GT40's....

     

    I've also ordered a 25k Slot-It motor for the unbuilt GT40 Slot-It kit I'm going to build up.... it will most likely have all the goodie bits on it.. and I'm hoping will be a very quick car.

     

    By the way - I remove all magnets..... I do like the option to drift.. and also believe it stresses motors a bit less....again, old school....

     

    So, S-R - your thoughts on any particular tyre razor - and is it a realistically viable cheap option to true tyres....?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  16. Thanks Peter.... yes, I'll now go ahead and try to glue one model's tyres down.... I'm intending to use contact cement - but only as a single application... and try to get the tyre/hub as close as possible.

    The tyres Slot-It fit to these cars have a lovely tread pattern - I'd like to try and keep that if possible.

     

    I am very much hoping that glueing the tyres to the hubs will remove all that horrible vibration noise you hear when you give full voltage to the motor... all mine really sound as if they are stressing when I take long runs down straights at full tilt....... it's possibly the tyres throwing out from the hubs....

     

    this seems to happen from around 10 volts onwards..... everything is quiet below that..

     

    I do have a switch mode Powertech 16v power supply... analogue using home wound and much larger (cross shaped and wound with flat toaster wire - might do a thread on that one day)... which gets me up around the 60 ohms.... the cross shape board affords ventilation all around the wire - and toaster ribbon is supposed to get red hot, right.....?

     

    The track I am now using is all new Sport track... it is layed down and packed up after every session (from hours to a couple of days).

     

    I clean the rails with Inox MX3 and store it back in its original packaging.. then in white plastic boxes and stacked away....

     

    My old track dates back to the early 60's.. and probably stopped "growing" in around 1985/6.... the latter half of this is in very good condition.. I love the hump back bridges... but, some of the models don't.... and the g'kids have a lot of trouble understanding that these become "launch" platforms unless they back off down the straights.......

     

    Let you know how I go with glueing some tyres.... so, this tyre razor - expensive?... is there any chance that it will only remove the slightest out of round peaks on the tyres.. I do like the tread pattern.. but, I'm guessing you'll probably comment...."do you want to look a the model - or run it".. and I believe we both know the answer to that.

    I believe contact cement affords removal and cleaning of the tyre/hub if something goes belly up.. plus - it also affords a bit of "tweaking" time to get the tyres to sit properly before the stuff goes off......

     

    I'm further guessing that only a smear is needed ...... possibly on the hubs then prise the tyres on...... that's my guess.

     

    thanks Peter - much appreciated.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  17. Thanks Wobble. I am going to attack this today.... I spent most of last night getting the upgraded suspension kit to work properly in a first run Slot-It GT40 (separate thread).

    I was playing with some styro card and it dawned on me that I could also use it to make some spacers to slot into the axle slots of the Lambo... and, as you suggest - work them down until I get a satisfactory travel on both sides.

    It doesn't need to be much of a travel - but one which will allow each side to push up enough not to de-slot... yet provide enough support to hold the car down through a corner..... I don't know why Scaley ever created so much travel in the front axle... maybe it was designed purely as a cosmetic addition..... no racing car would look right wiithout front wheels....

     

    I'm still leaning of fitting those bronze bushes, though... I fitted some to the rear as in the above.... if I did the front as well - it would complete the mission.... think they were $8 for 10 from AR...... once I get the wheel height right. I can simply ream out the posts and fit the buses..... only one wheel has to come of... the axle is straight - so there's no need to fit new ones... there would never have been any stress on it to cause wear... the arrangement simply "floats"....

     

    With stiffening up the ride height - there will now come a bit of wear.. so, hence my thoughts on those bushes.

     

    thanks again, Wobble....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  18. Ok folk - by the look of it, we've got a few people interested in following this thread... so, I'll keep posting what I'm finding as I work through fitting these to my Slot-It fleet... which is so far - 5 GT40's.... with the 5th yet to come.

     

    Ok - I know a bit more - and have managed to effect some mods which make the installation a bit better.

     

    Up until tonight, I'd only done the upgrade to the Yellow Mk1... currently available on special at AR for $55.... hence my now getting a second one.

     

    Fitting the kit to that model (upgraded, I believe) was an awful lot easier than the one I hit tonight.... the Alan Mann one... which, I believe is the superceded model - it's a bit of a problem child for this suspension upgrade.

     

    Before I started messing around with fitting the kit to this one - I studied where I could do something about the lateral slop the kit produces - and came up with an acceptable and well worth the effort modification....

     

    On the end bell side of the chassis where the motor pod fits into - there is a vertical post... it tapers back slightly - but can be used to stick a shim onto it.

    I used two thicknesses of 20 thou styrene card - 5 mm high and 4mm wide..... I used superglue to laminate them - or you could simply use one piece of 40 thou.....

     

    I used some Isopryl alcohol to clean up the chassis post - then a jeweller's file to key up the surface.

    I used cyano-acrylate to stick the laminated styrene card to this post and let it set whilst I had a coffee.

    When I came back to it - it made a sound bond...

    I then used the jeweller's file again - but kept the cuts vertical and square to the chassis.... thus removing the taper which the card had followed when stuck to this post.

     

    I then attacked the motor mount... there is quite a bit of rubbish on the side of that where it rubs against the chassis post.

     

    Finally, I used one of my favorite home made tools.... an icy pole stick - with a superglued band of 400 wet and dry at one end and some 800 at the other.

     

    Rubbing this and keeping it square whilst wet achieved an almost unmarked satin finish....

    It was only a matter or working the card down until there was negligible clearance as the pod moved up and down.

    On the other side - it's the gearwheel which prevents the pod from moving across..... I used the wet and dry stick to polish this up as well - and on the mating surface of the pod....

     

    The end result is a free moving sprung pod mount with next to no lateral slop.....

     

    Now - next issue...... this early version of the GT40 has a fundamental flaw in design.... I don't know what it is exactly - but know I didn't have the problem on the revised version....

     

    The terminal side of the top of the motor strikes the underside of the induction manifold.... and prevents that side from moving up more than probably 5 thou when compressed... the other side is capable of about 3 mm... (sorry for the different measurements... but I don't know what 5 thou is in mm's...... old school - you understand)....

     

    I first believed it was the capacitor on top of the motor - then unsoldered it and shifted it across over the motor body.... didn't help.

    Next, I soldered the leads to the underside of the terminals - didn't help....

     

    I then cut some styrene card spacers and fitted them between the chassis and body.... looked crap - but it did give me the 1 - 2 mm throw I wanted in suspension....

     

    So, out with the Dremel and a fine sanding disc and proceeded to take "layers" off the induction manifold and some of the cowl - where the motor terminals are....

     

    With every run and trial - the suspension was gaining travel.... when I had what I wanted - I stopped..... put it all back together and adjusted the stops and tension.

     

    That model is now every bit as good as the first one....

     

    I will compare both models tomorrow and take a peek at how Slot-It have modified the second revision..... there has to be something that's been changed.

    The induction manifold and cowl were firmly placed up into the body - so, I don't believe it was a case of a sloppy assembly......

     

    I took some pix as I worked through this one.... and hopefully will post them up tomorrow sometime....

     

    I have an unassembled white MK 1 kit to put together.... and I expect this is also the first run of Slot-It GT40 Mk 1's..... so, I'll most likely be able to change some of the parts as I assemble it....

     

    hope some of this helps....

     

    Oh - and by the way - the motor mount on this earlier version allows a lot of turn of the motor in the mount.... I expect a dollop of hot glue will all but stop that....

     

    And - finally..... perhaps.... i did a test run of the model at around 3 volts for some time.... I had the tyres pretty much set on the ally hubs... but - when I took it up to 9 volts.... that horrible vibration kicked in (and I note the same "noise" comes when you run down the straight and give a model buckets full).... it's a rattling noise sort of.... all my cars have always done it..... so, can someone kindly inform me that this is why many of you folk glue your tyres to the hubs....? I'm guessing so... and, after gluing them - does that horrible noise stop....?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  19. Thanks Wobble - I'll try and slide one around tomorrow... I remember the rears weren't knurled.... but this is Old Scaley.... I'm am told on good authority that the newer stuff is most definitely - and that unless fitting ally hubs - not to meddle with them..

     

    As for the Johnson motor... not sure on that - Jed sold me one of those to go into an old Scaley F1..... it was an anodised frame with a black end bell....

    These older ones might also be Johnson... something about a "24D" is ringing bells in my head..... from whence I was still at high school....

     

    Let you know how the ongoing resto is going... once I get the Lambo done - I'll hit the Ferrari P4 (C16) next... I've got a real soft spot for that old girl... won lots of races with it... by golly it was quick - compared to the rest of the lame ducks we have in our collection... but nothing compared to what you chaps are missiling around your layouts with.....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  20. Thanks for that - I'm starting now to lean on not pulling the wheels off... but building something in which is of a split nature....

    I did pull the rear wheels - and didn't have an issue... might do one of the fronts.... but if they are knurled - I might do more damage to the 30 plus year old wheel than is worth the benefit.... watch this space.... could be up for new front axles and wheels yet.... the tyres are already shot - so there's a chance that I might replace one/both of these models front assemblies anyway...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  21. Hi all,

    hope someone can help..... issue - new bushes for Slot-It GT40 front axle.

    Would like to fit these bushes into my fleet.... s**t scared to pull one of the wheels off to withdraw the axle...

     

    Would appreciate any experience/suggestions.... don't want to take the "alloy" path.... tried to find instructions on the Slot-It website "how to" downloads.... there's stuff there on almost everything but......

     

    Also want to fit the grub screws and do away with the plastic posts.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  22. Thanks S-R - yes, that would certainly stop the axle from slumping - but I fear it would result in the wheels not touching the track.... I should probably have included a side shot of the guide mount.... you would then see that it makes the model sit nicely parallel with the track... but, at that height - the front axle is mid way in its travel.... so, that pair of wheels are doing nothing to help keep the model stable - no so important on straight track - but I'd like to get a bit of cornering ability out of the front wheels....

     

    I'm leaning towards fitting bushes in the axle guide slot... and maybe then using the grub screws to tweak the height... I guess these could be removed and the bushes set by reaming out holes for them....

     

    For now, my plan is to create some form of spacer in both posts to determine the best running height....

    Both these models - the Ferrari and the Lamborghini - were supplied ex factory with so much slop in the front axle - that the front wheels/tyres were for cosmetic purposes only.....

     

    Thanks S-R ... I'll keep this thread going as I progress with tweaking the front.

     

    Oh - by the way - does anyone know what the "blue" motor fitted to so many of these 1965/70/80 Scaley cars was called.....any specs...?

    Not that I intend to replace them... just curious.

     

    Following that question - my next one is to somehow fabricate a front windscreen for the model... I'm leaning towards cutting up a drink bottle and trying to heat-form the material over some sort of mold which I can effect using the window aperture..... any thoughts?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  23. Hi folk,

    as promised - I've started a new thread on building up a guide post mount on the above model.

    The original had two brass contact strips incorporated into the guide mount - the guide had a threaded shaft which was held in place by a brass nut...

     

    After in-numerous departures from the track - competing against it's stable mate - the C16 P4 Ferrari - the guide mount on this model completely sheared open and could not be repaired.

     

    At the time (around the 1985 mark) we had just picked up two new Scaley UOP Shadows... and I could get replacement guides for those.

    I set about trying to fabricate something up - but was unsuccessful... so, this model went into mothballing for the next 28 years....

     

    Last year, on returning to the hobby/sport - after finding out that it was indeed still alive and kicking - I eventually made contact with Kevin at AR who tried to assist .... sadly, no replacement parts were available - so I bit the bullet and commenced to make good something which would bring the model back to the track....

     

    My initial attempts were pretty dismal - but, having endured more than 20 years in model railway - including scratch builds... I set about making up a mount for a short stem guide (yes - I'd forgotten that I had used one of these until I started photographing it tonight)....

     

    I used styrene card of varying thicknesses and laminated them with MEK.... and under a sort of press until it cured.

    Once I had the mount platform made - I measured out the pivot hole location and drilled it - reaming it out until a smooth but relatively free turntable was effected with the short stem guide inserted through the hole - and held in place by the pronged split stem.

     

    I then had to mark out and grind/file away relief for the leads and eyelets to pass in front of the mount.... it really isn't pretty - but it works.... see pix.

     

    The next step was to add some limit pins to prevent the guide turning beyond any desired angle... so, I grabbed a couple of circuit board pins and a drill of the same size... and set about locating where to fit the pins... my first attempt failed - and I had to re-manufacture the mount.... so, second time around - I was able to use the now over-drilled mount and locate a more exacting location for the pins......

     

    I used baking soda and cyano-acrylate (picked that little trick up from my heli hobby) and voila - the entire assembly is held rigidly in place...

     

    I did have to play a bit with getting the lead angle of the guilde mount correct...

     

    But - in comparison to the original - this retro-fitted and bush-bashed variant had given much joy to those who again can run this model around the track.....

     

    Whilst I was at it - and now having access to upgrades... I decided to fit bearings into the die-cast rear gearboxes....

    The years of running on carpet, wooden floors with heaps of fluff - and the eventual wear/tear of the axles through the die-cast holes - as bearings... left an awful lot of slop in the rear axle... in fact - there was considerable wobble both vertically and laterally within the entire assembly....

     

    Very carefully measured the diameter of some new Slot-It bronze bushes and progressively worked my way into the die-cast - until the new bearings could be force-fitted.

    Once I had reamed out both sides - I fitted a new hardened steel 3/32" axle through the holes and then fitted the bearings....

    I used some Loctite 262 to secure the bearings in the die-cast.

    I fitted some new slick tyres to the original wheels and was very surprised at how true these tyres were on the old wheels.....

     

    I left the model for well ov16er a month for the loctite to fully cure out - and on finally getting enough nerve up to test the model - was absolutely amazed at how well it now ran....

     

    There was one further issue with this model - and it could never really be competitive with the C16 Ferrari....

    I believe there was a design fault in the motor mount... it slung far too low.... and would bottom out on the Scaley Hump back bridges... and occasionally would scrape on some of the less looked after track....

     

    So, I set about grinding out the cockpit and lifting the front motor mount up.... eventually getting it to run parallel to the track...

     

    This model, folk - is the faster of the two.... but I also fitted the bearings and new tyres to the C16.... they both run an awful lot better than ever before...

     

    I'm now contemplating doing something to stiffen up the front axle now - and fit replacement tyres (those in the pic are original 1985)...

    I would like to pick the brains of those who have done this - and can give me some appreciation of the benefit of fitting bushes and new axles to the front..... the amount of built in (manufacturer) slop on the front axle - well - quite simply, it might not as well be there... i have run the models without the axle in place and it really doesn't make much difference to handling - that I can note....

     

    Ok - you've read the novel... now see the movie....errrr - pix...

     

    frats,

    Rosco

     

     

    Lamboguide001_zpsaf16dcaa.jpg

     

    Lamboguide002_zpsec60b4dd.jpg

     

    Lamboguide003_zps35d02dc8.jpg

     

    Lambobearing001_zps67969bc3.jpg

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