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rosco01

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Posts posted by rosco01


  1. Bram, yes - thank you for expanding on Phil's suggestion. I do appreciate that using spacers to keep the rear axle in constant communication with the crown/pinion mesh is the best engineering option - as we use on in line motors where the crown does not have a guide groove.

     

    I guess on the outset, that I simply didn't realise how much work was involved in dropping that motor down.... I had concerns on lifting the rear axle in its chassis holes or moving them forward as it would have compromised the body rear wheel arches - and I was hellbent on not touching the body... so, I guess I've achieved what I set out to.

     

    The motor is a long way down - it runs horizontal to the bottom of the crown... I don't know if this is going to create any downforce yet - I don't run with magnets... but this will probably be as close as I'll get without them.

     

    The chassis assembly is probably as good, if not better than some of my GT40's.... I have put a lot of work into this one - call it pig-headedness if you like - but old Rosco has this "thing" about investment and probably part of that drives the stubborn-ness.....

     

    I will focus on a guide when I get back - for all intents and purposes, if I'd simply left this one on the metal plate for the next week or more - and simply soldered on two leads to Cooper #2 - I could have enjoyed a few laps on one of the club's layouts last night in another "realm".

     

    Speaking of which, I took three of my GT40's for a burn around the track.... I now fully appreciate that you can simply "over-power" a model... that white kit monster is frightening - (29K5 motor, 9 tooth pinion, 36 tooth spur and suspension) - it is just so twitchy with the controller that it is probably more like the real thing in competition tune...

     

    The second one down (25k motor, 10 tooth pinion and 34 tooth spur and suspension) is an easier and faster (lap times) car to run.... it "leapt" off the track a few times where a straight section had a slight crest... but it was certainly more "controllable" and seemed to find the guide slot more consistently than the monster mentioned above...

     

    The absolute stock motor/gearing third one, with only suspension and the spherical front axle bushes - was the easiest of them all to drive.... silky smooth with quite a bit of margin to feather the controller..... the other two were fun, the white kit version simply frightening at times. It was like hitting the power band of a two stroke motor... you simply didn't know when it was going to "unleash"....

     

    I will keep the little 18k white end-bell motor in this T70 - I can lift it up to the orange-bell if it lacks legs... but I believe I've learned my lesson in over-powering models...

     

    None of this showed up on my Scalextric layouts.... I simply had constructed too many long straights without any grade undulations... last night was an eye opener and nerve tester with two of the above models.

     

    I'm very confident now that this T70 will be a very pleasant model to drive - the body looks great too....

     

    Thanks to all who have commented... I hope anyone finding this post later on gets to read its entirety before committing to purchasing one of the exact same models.... if so, get the Slot-It chassis with an orange endbell.... and chuckle at my expense...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  2. Yes Phil,

    I had considered re-positioning the rear axle bushes - but when the need to more the motor back arose - it threw my attention from the rear axle back to the motor....

    If I'd lifted the bushes, I'd have still needed to move the motor back.. although I did not enjoy gouging through all that plastic - logic seemed to suggest a one location mod... I simply didn't realise on the outset what that ended up involving....

     

    As mentioned - Slot-It chassis and throw this one into the spare parts box...

     

    I had much success using those spherical front axle bushes in the GT40's.... they work a treat in Slot-It chassis' - for which they are designed..

     

    Originally, I was going to fit some MB slot bushes.. but there wasn't enough meat on the axle posts to cut that far into them... the spherical ones just popped up in a timely sift though my parts bins..... a simple ream out and file and they popped in beautifully... the cyano and baking soda was added to ensure they did not get "cocked"...

     

    I may yet decided to run a hollow front axle and fit eyelets and thrust washers... resulting in independent front wheel rotation... it works beautifully on the Cooper piano wire/brass chassis'...

     

    This has indeed been a tunnel-vision project... I won't do it again.... I have been telling people, that unless Flyslot pick up their act - this will be the second Flyslot model I will ever own.... the first AND the last....

     

    Body is fantastic.. don't get me wrong.... but this particular chassis.... it's a kiddies toy and really needs to be pushed along the floor....

     

    Thanks for your input, Phil..... yes - hindsight.... probably even if I'd decided to go ahead with this chassis - it should have been chopped out and a "pod" fitted... now, there's a thought..... pity I didn't strike on it earlier.... just got pig-headed and stubborn, I'm afraid....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  3. Ok folk,

    one more post - and this is going to be one which readers are not going to be happy about - particularly, the Flyslot Lola T70 owners....

     

    I can be a determined brute of a pig sometimes, and I pay heavily for my stubborness... this Lola being a brilliant example..

     

    I "should" have just ditched the chassis and built one or hacked a Slot-It chassis up and drilled four mounting holes.... really, it is that bad!

     

    I set out this morning, on a day when I really had much more pressing things to get done.... only to find myself spending all of it up until dinner tonight in a determined rage to force this blasted chassis to conform..... really, really bad - folk - read the above line.

     

    I took the chassis from the plate after straightening it - and was very pleased with the remedy of a twisted and bowed plastic "base"... not a chassis.

     

    I then began to assemble the newly attained Slot-It running gear... all $70 of it.

     

    The bushes were the first to go in - and yes, they slopped.... so, job #1 was to set them in position.

    I slipped a Slot It axle through and then fitted the new Slot It motor.

    I had measured it exactly in comparison with the whatever knows what was fitted by Flyslot... and they are exactly the same in size... all the fittings, screw holes and even length of armature were identical... but this new motor had significantly more "magnet"... hence what people have posted about the poor braking power of the Flyslot motor.....

     

    I pressed a new Slot-It 9 tooth brass pinion onto the motor shaft.. and then prised the mounting faces apart to fit the motor..... snap! the circular strap broke without very much force... so, blow 1 - we now have a broken strap to fix....

     

    the motor went in easliy after that - and I bedded it firmly down into place.... I slipped the axle through the crown - to align the new brass bushes - and found the motor shaft not making the groove in the new Slot-It brass/nylon 27t crown.... by a long shot... nor did the pinion teeth mesh with the crown.... well, they did enough to make the motor turn - but it was way, way out......

     

    I looked at it from the side - and noted that the motor shaft in its fitted position sat around 2 mm above the centre-line of the axle.... that's a 2 mm positive offset!

     

    I decided to glue in the axle bushes first then set about rectifying the gear mesh...

    I dropped some cyano down through the "V" slot atop the bushes then sprinkled it with baking soda to build up some collar.... that all worked fine.

    Pulling out the axle and removing the crown - then re-fitting the axle had it spinning freely within.... and square to the centre-line of the chassis..

     

    So, now we get to the next 6 hours.... the motor mount.

     

    I re-fitted the original motor and noted exactly the same thing... a 2mm positive offset... I re-fitted the original crown and noted that it also "just" meshed with the very edge of the crown teeth... that brings me back to my original post about there being a lot of grinding when I first applied power....

     

    I scribed some critical lines over all the parts which needed addressing and found that this chassis - if it is a generic one - will give anyone with it headaches until major surgery is undertaken..... or - read the one line up above re - Slot-It chassis....

     

    I persevered, cutting and gouging, filing and grinding... all 1 1/2 hours of it to get the blasted motor down.... and to get the centre-line of the motor shaft in line with the rear axle - it's a drop of 2 mm....hence the reference of a positive 2 mm offset.

     

    Ok - so now, believing that I'd now get somewhere - I re-fitted the motor, axle and crown - nope!... the end of the motor shaft does not go back far enough to run in the groove of the crown.... so, more slicing, grinding, cutting and filing... and we now have 2 mm of rearward motor shift as well.....

     

    Starting to get the picture that this chassis is a hospital case?... if not, you should be.

     

    What I have now, is a 1mm gap on both sides of the motor (wait until you have to gouge out the perfectly formed and body-line molded plastic engine frame... pity it wasn't in the right place!

     

    We also have a 2mm gap at the front of the motor to the motor mount... so, in goes a hand-made brass shim... and two holes were drilled through it and the plastic motor mount for two brass motor screws and washers to be fitted to hold the motor...

     

    I've now got a motor in great mesh with the crown.. and free as a bird... no binding - axle runs freely.... and the motor is now located with its underside in line with the bottom of the crown..... that's how far down the blasted thing had to be moved!

     

    I fit the screws and washers and fix the broken strap around the other end with cyano and baking soda... then add a bit more here and there to prevent the rear of the motor coming up from the new flat bottom base I'd created... all secure - and working like blasted well Flyslot should have set it up to start with.

     

    I fit it all back on the metal plate - and guess what? - it is now bowed again.... the pressure on each end of the motor in the chassis - had deflected the two sides beside the motor.... so, out it comes again.... and I trim more from the end of the mount... re-fit it, test it for straight - and folk, now we have a good fitting motor - in line with the rear axle - pinion and crown mesh very smoothly AND the chassis is again straight....

     

    That was part 1....

     

    Part 2.... front axle - what a joke - the original flopped, dropped and wobbled within the two open frames which contained them (not held them)..

     

    I fitted some spare wheels and tyres to the rear axle - and then set a new axle and pair of wheels through the front - to get a ride height of where I wanted to secure the front axle....marked the heights - then set about using a reamer, drills and files to make way for two Slot-It bronze spherical bushes..

    Eventually, I had the bushes popping in and being able to be gymballed around in the new holes... I fitted the axle and wheels again and set it down on the plate to check that all four wheels were equally on the "deck"... one was a little high - so that side got another touch with a file... then, it all sat pefectly.. chassis square - axles equi-distant on both sides and also parallel in height with each other....

     

    I used cyano and baking soda again to build up bush retainers - and now have the front axle spinning freely...

     

    So folk - you are going to ask.... "if I'd simply bought a Slot-It chassis - I would have all this - at a fraction of the cost and the only work to have been required was to simply fit the sperical bushes to the front axle and four M2 grub screws to set the adjustable height....

     

    But for you poor folk with this Flyslot chassis - and who wish to follow my pains (why on heck would you?) - please copy the above and get ready for a very, very frustrating and annoying day of labour......

     

    A couple of pix of the end result.... you can clearly see in them the work required... and, you will also see how far down and back that blasted motor has to be moved to get anywhere near a sound mesh at the rear.....

     

     

    Disregard the wheels and tyres.... they are spares from a GT 40... a "Slot It' one...... not the plastic rubbish and bendable axle which came with "this" model....

     

    pix..

     

    T70chassis008_zpsb9ebe873.jpg

     

    T70chassis009_zps87f1f4fd.jpg

     

    T70chassis010_zps98f9045d.jpg

     

    T70chassis011_zpsf4005645.jpg

     

    T70chassis012_zps04efea21.jpg

     

    T70chassis013_zps5737ae92.jpg

     

    T70chassis014_zpsdf0406cf.jpg

     

    T70chassis015_zps50d33f7f.jpg

     

    T70chassis016_zps832a4a3c.jpg

     

    Why would you..... just answer me this .... why - Slot-It HRS adjustable chassis - wheels, tyres, guide......$50'ish at AR....

     

    frats.

    Rosco


  4. Ok folk,

    left it in the bath for a day longer than usual.... only because I haven't had time to attend to it... until now.

     

    The base plate of steel was covered in more fine rust than after all previous models were treated.... the amazing patterns around where the magnets were placed always amazes me.

     

    As you can see below, the chassis now sits flat on the plate without magnets holding it down.

    I was very concerned about the dip in the left side - I expect this has been caused by the badly bowed chassis being brought into a flat plane.

    I was also concerned about any distortion between the axle mounts - but after measuring the spacings front to back and diagonally both ways - it is all square... axle spacing is 80 mm and diagonally 87 mm

     

    pix....

     

    T70chassis003_zps3fa14371.jpg

     

    T70chassis004_zpsd939129d.jpg

     

    T70chassis005_zpsdc62ba3e.jpg

     

    T70chassis006_zps99950fa8.jpg

     

    T70chassis007_zpsea3e6a12.jpg

     

    The running gear upgrade parts arrived safely this morning - thanks to an express service from Robert at A/R.

     

    I am currently waiting for glue to dry on the wheels and tyres....

     

    I won't get any more done to this model for a couple of weeks....we will be missing in action again away with the caravan club....

     

    See y'all when I get back...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  5. Of course, you also have the benefit of being able to add a bit more meat to further castings where fracture lines occur in racing.... the rest of us simply have to grind away and re-pack.when we go too far.... or break bits during assembly (sic).

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  6. Wow! you certainly get the meat out of your bodies... and, I thought I'd done well with removing superficial lumps of casts....

    There is more meat in the long nose section of one than the other... I will reinforce the lighter one as I can see through it... probably a particular spot to snap... any nose-on prang at high speed will undoubtedly cause grief here.. so, a strip of fibre glass mat and come cyano..... and balance that little bit off with a bit more gouge somewhere else.... you do very well to get down to those weights, Phil...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  7. Thanks Phil - yes, I do appreciate and understand that the model needs to be kept light.... the amount of Milliput putty I will use is basically intended to make the bond and fill any gap between the two mating surfaces... the cyano and fibreglass tape will weigh next to nothing... it will be a strip only the width of the air box cover, but run the full internal span around the upper/lower body parts to bind them.

    The brass rods will be each probably be 5 mm long - just to further peg the upper and lower sections.

    I believe this will effect a very lightweight, yet strong bond.... certainly stronger than the original casting which, as I expect - would be of little concern in operation.

     

    I removed quite a bit of casting "meat" from inside the air cover - I doubt very much that the amount of weight I am going to employ re-attaching will result in any significant increase.... I had weighed the bodies prior to working on them after removal of the cut-out apertures plus removal of this air cover "meat" - 9.29g for one and 7.72g for the other.

     

    I have just now weighed chassis #2 in running trim with motor, and guide assembly - minus the wheel inserts = 42.61g.

     

    Obviously, this is yet to include screen, mirrors suspension and paint.... I am hopeful that I should be able to come in with an all-up-weight of the 60g mark.. or perhaps one or two more/less....

     

    It will be interesting to learn what my re-assembled weights are - including the four abbreviated ram tubes plus the intended small piece of styrene card I now believe I'll use to space and mount them.

     

    I do acknowledge your suggestion to drill into the body and mount them in that fashion - but there is no access to perform such work from under the cover - my intention is to drill and fit them into a short length of styrene card - then mount this to the inside of the body where I have carved/scraped/cajoled away the casting.

    This piece of card will be painted matt black - only the four shiny aluminium intakes should be viewable.. I'm hoping for a pleasing result.... albeit that they must be "looked for"... not being readily visible from a "running" perspective....

     

    Thanks again, Phil - much appreciated.. no work today, medicals and lots of preparatory work to afford us a break away for a week or more..

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  8. Yesterday's effort.... not great, but hopefully a satisfying result - with added strength to a potential achilles heel...

     

    I want to fit ferules under the intake air cover and decided the best approach was to slice away at the "meat" until four of these little trumpets could be inserted.

     

    One slice too far and I had the body hinging on the opposite side... which, as the body was cast - is also on a very thin join line.

     

    I sliced through that as well and now have the "lifting" section of the rear as a separate piece.

    I was then able to get right into the intake cover and grind out enough to fit the cut-down ferules...

     

    My plan is now to use some "milliput" epoxy putty then run a complete length of fibre-glass tape across the two halves - using c/a as a catalyst.

    I am considering adding further strength to the assembly by drilling and fitting a bent-to-shape length of brass rod - c/a'd into the "meat" of the body.

     

    Both bodies (all four parts) have now been given their first coat of primer... and the little voids can be seen quite easily.... I'll let this cure out for a bit now and then apply putty.

     

    Another little project is currently drawing my attention away from these little cars at present.. but not for much longer.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  9. Argh.... Peter - gread minds....I've just committed a princely $70 AUD to this model... add to that the $67 ebay price and I could have had the most expensive/high performance model of all time... sadly, this will only be what Flyslot "should" have done to make an inroad on the marketplace..... probably, in terms of their investment of perhaps a further (trade price) $20 per unit...... alas - they will most likely suffer the consequences....

     

    Ok folk - moving right along - and I do very much hope members, particularly the newer ones - will watch as we work through what I have thus far learned through the forum to "tune" a model..... this one, being of particularly poor running ability - may offer those who have the "lame duck" chance to bring it to life....

     

    Today, and I must admit to a stern degree of stubborn-ness here, I invested a further $70 AUD to this model.... insane, maybe - but determined, definitely....

     

    We have on order - and shipped tomorrow - two new hardened steel axles, four 3/32" bronze bushes, four 4203 MJK urethane tyres, two 9 tooth Slot-It 2mm pinions, a 27th brass insert/nylon spur crown gear, the lowest of the Slot-It S can motors and two ultra lightweight 15 x 8.2 mm alloy wheels.

     

    The project is now in progress.

     

    Today I reamed out the four chassis/body screw holes to afford "float" between the body and chassis.

    I then ground away the periphery of the chassis - to afford clearance from the chassis to body... this is very important - the body "must" float on the chassis.... tighten it down, and you strangle the model... it must be able to fly free like a bird....

     

    Further, to get this chassis float - I went in the opposite direction to Peter G and decided to sever the rear exhaust frame from the chassis - trimmed it and glued it to the body with C/A.

     

    I ran the underside of the chassis over a perfectly flat steel plate with 360 w/dry grit paper between to flatten any imperfections in the chassis base.

     

    I then used the very same steel plate to set the chassis flat - using a multitude of magnets (all removed from models - as I do not run magnets (no discussion entered into).

     

    The pix below give a pretty much self explanatory description of why this is so important - I firmly believe you cannot possibly set a commercial plastic chassis up without first ensuring that all four axle mounts and the motor are in the same relative plane...

     

    So - the first pic shows how I have employed the steel plate as a sound base to bring down/up the chassis - the magnets are non-effected by anything remote.. and their residual attraction to the steel plate will ensure the plastic chassis will "re-set" itself to a flat and workable series of common levels.... this, dear people - is the great advantage of building your own piano wire chassis - you are entirely in control of the relative assignments of the principle parts.... axles, motor and guide ......

     

    pic.... you will note, that the magnets are positioned nearest the most critical parts of any chassis...

     

    T70001mail_zps4836b13f.jpg

     

    In the next pic - you can see how the magnets have "pulled down" the plastic chassis to the steel base plate... all the working surfaces are now fully based on the plate... so, we have the best possible plane to work from...

     

    I might further add here - that before adding magnets - this poor little thing had one front "leg" up in the air (front right) and one propping the back up - rear left... the chassis was both twisted and bent... with a huge boat shaped dip from front to rear...

     

    T70002mail_zps00cdff3c.jpg

     

    What we now need to do is to get this to "stay" ... and how we do this, is to dunk it overnight in boiling water....

     

    I use a Pyrex (don't know if I need to use the "TM" logo here) rectangular dish.

     

    I bring the temperature of the plate and chassis up in three stages.. a pre-warm, a further warm-up in about 10 minutes and a final "bath".

     

    (P.s edit, whatever.... don't pour the boiling water directly over any part of the chassis - it will distort it... I made that mistake once..... just flood the boiling water in on all four sides of the plate.... not directly).

     

    I use a wooden chopping block over the dish to retain heat - and wrap the entire lot with a folded bath towel - below, over the top and along each side of the dish - to retain heat. We really need to let this cool out extremely slowly..... too fast, and you're more likely to cause more problems than the manufacturer did when releasing the casting from the mold..... that's when they "buckle" up...... hot plastic reacts very acutely to sudden temperature drops... use a lighter on something and watch what happens when you take away the heat.....it "curls"... grrrrr - mass production, and little concern for the end result......

     

    In this method (as it was explained to me from within one of the links from a Slot-It thread in this forum) - the heat of the water relaxes the initial molding process from the factory - but, more importantly - the slow cooling down process over a long period of time ensures that a new "memory" within the plastic ensures it will naturally flex back to its new state.... you can literally re-program plastic... to almost any form you desire - within reason... but, it must be cooled out slowly.....

     

    We'll take another look at this tomorrow - hopefully, I'll have pix up to show the chassis from side-on without magnets... and sitting very flat on the steel plate.

     

    From then, we work through adding the axles... and, there may just be some "tweaking" of alignment here... both in the vertical and horizontal plane.... I'll concentrate on the rear axle first... once it is set - we will then move to positioning the front one - equidistant on both sides from the rear - and in the same parallel and horizontal plane... then comes the guide mount.

     

    I'm ever so keen to get the motor, pinon and crown set.. as this might also involve re-positioning one of the rear axle bushes.. and, of course - subsequently the front axle ones....

     

    So folk, if I can't get this little sweetie to run better than Flyslot presented it - I might as well go learn to fly a kite.....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  10. Frost, don't let us put you off - Carrera are probably my #2 at the present... obviously, Slot-It are #1....

     

    Embs, dear lady - you and I, Mark and Sebastian all know - Mark was the better competitor..... me thinks, he may more often than not - been dealt the Flyslot in lieu of the Slot-It...

     

    DM.... fear not - I've brought life back into ashes before - and I'm in for a pretty big fight to get another "new" heap of fading embers back up on deck...

     

    About to post today's effort with this latest little over-committment... both in effort and funds...but, it will be one which rises from the ashes... the model, when I received it - was a "dustbin" case..... let's see what great input and info which has come from this forum can do to bring this dear little thing back to life.....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  11. Totally agree with Ember and DM - I probably have more Carrera cars than Slot-It's....

    My re-entry into slot cars was entirely down to Carrera.... specifically, the Cobra's.... I let a Scalextric one go in my much younger days and have rued the loss ever since.

    When I picked up my first two Carrera Cobra's.... there isn't any way I'd compare these great little cars to that of the 1966 Scalextric AC Cobra's.... detail, running and engineering.

     

    I don't run magnets - no debate entered into, I do find Carrera cars to slip around a bit at the back...but it is entirely controllable - and fun.

     

    I have 4 Cobra's, four Cheetah's and Mark Webber's RB7.... they have all been great models right out of the box (OTB)... only one had a motor issue - and Armchair replaced that free of charge (thanks Kevin).

     

    As for over-engineering - yes...... impressive - but can become troublesome if it gets out of whack... particularly the guide arrangement.

    For running on Scalextric track, the guide has to either be changed (comes in box) or the red one trimmed to suit.

     

    Also, on Sport track - grip is a bit of an issue on the standard Carrera tyres... not so bad on the older Classic track.

    On one of them, I fitted MJK replacements to the rear... and it sure pricked up the ears in handling.

     

    I don't have any Ninco yet - but there's one I'm seriously looking at... and will probably report if/when I get it.

     

    The only Carrera I've been disappointed with is the Mark Webber RB7 - I got the very last one available... it's a cumbersome model, in my opinion... but, along with it being fully digital - is a collector's item, and I won't ever part with it.

     

    My introduction to Slot-It has been a learning curve - and I fully concur with what is posted above, if you want a competitive model with amazing value for money and quality/high end running gear.

     

    The GT40 Mk1's were my introduction into Slot-It... and I have not looked back. So much so, that I have not purchased another Carrera model since, save for the RB7 as a part of my Oz associated collection - along with the latest release Scalextric L34 of P. Brock/P. Sampson.

     

    I have recently posted comment on my first Flyslot model... and I would suggest anyone read those comments prior to making an investment...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  12. Thanks DM and Munter.

     

    DM - no, the motor is entirely held by the rear bracket. It is therefore critical that the mount face of that rear bracket is both square and parallel to the chassis.... as you have read, Chassis #2 had to be pulled apart and the bracket faces and side supports brought into alignment...

    I believe this to be the "foundation" of a chassis... get that rear bracket absolutely square and the rest of the build simply is held in place using the tile...

     

    Please, let me know when you start - I can't spruke that I'll be of much assistance in your build - but I offer you everything I am capable from a novice level .... and might just be able to answer any obscure questions most members accept as "given"...

     

    With these first two initial builds, I don't believe I've quite got anything substantiated yet - but I'm becoming more comfortable with the daunting task of bending some piano wire and adding a couple of brackets to make a chassis...more and more of it is making sense - most of it was simply undertaken as superfluent... until things didn't work.... and the gravity of such exact tolerances became known... again - the rear bracket... spend a day on it.... and make absolutely certain that it is in the best possible state before assembling additions...

     

    DM - don't build just one of these - build two...... I learned this from my scratch-building locomotive era... you learn so much more when you have two in construction.... and, end of the day - you get two models..... the difference in time construction is more than halved from that of starting a subsequent build after completion of the first..

     

    And, if you take a peek at the Tasman Proxy series... and look at the specs of some of the models you can enter.... many have the 91" wheelbase.. so, two identical chassis' can be utilised for two different models..... pray mercy on me, I'm building two Coopers - then will follow that up with two Brabhams... all on the same chassis...so, why the heck didn't I build four at once..... I have all parts necessary...arghhh....hindsight - wonderful recourse..

     

    I've hit these builds like a bull at a gate.. many here who build, do so a bit at a time... I didn't, and spent weeks in continuem applying myself and energy to achieve. Be warned, this is both addictive and obsessive - the "outside" world simply melts into oblivion...

     

    Without the close and very supportive assistance from many within this forum and another - I would certainly be struggling.

    Special thanks to Munter and Kalfelp, who have been guiding lights...

     

    Now, DM - don't sell yourself short..... once you get that tile (thanks Ember), and procure some brackets.... the obsession begins... and, I hope never leaves you.

     

    I'm a long, long way from completing these first two models... and firmly believe that I now possess a greater understanding of what we simply accept as a body and a chassis.... the engineering afforded from even the simplest of commercial manufacturers is now very much more appreciated than ever before.

     

    So, to avoid going into any further diatribe... I would seriously suggest, for the outlay of perhaps a modest budget to begin with - that any forum member with the passion to actually "create" a model, should be strongly encouraged to "give it a burl"....yes, you'll make heaps and heaps of mistakes.. and take many backwards steps... but "you" will create something which will reward you tenfold for your efforts....

     

    I would further suggest that consideration be given to undertaking the Proxy series which prompted me to task myself with these builds... I continue to believe that the fruits of my labors will be rewarded - be they at participation level....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  13. DM - I am still waiting for that chassis on back-order.... but for another model.

    It is great value for money - it is RTR and is adjustable to suit most models of this size....

    I will opt to fit Slot-It gear into the Flyslot chassis.... might be a bit of work with some of it... but I'm very confident the end result will enjoy much success.

    Sadly, I can't fit a side-winder chassis to this model - for club rules.... but, with the HRS option to fit an in-line pod - never know... might end up going down that track if this turns out a flop and I just want to run the model at home or during "social" events....

     

    Don't fear of any soap-boxing in my threads, DM - I have been known to swamp other threads with similar opine..

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  14. Thank you to all who trawled through one of my (again) long posts.

     

    I'm not done yet - I have now taken to this little car and will persevere with it..... or bust!

     

    One of the members of my group emailed me back today, encouraging me to continue the work.

    Of quite some relief - I am allowed to replace the axle, bushes, crown, wheels, tyres and indeed motor - but it must stay as an in-line model (so, you ask - why did I purchase the car?).

     

    My intentions are now well known - and orders will be placed. Yes, the MJK 4203's are the tyres which I will purchase - but I can't for the life of me find the Slot-It alloy wheels to match.... MJK (and the calculator Shadow_Rusty put together for us) has made finding the tyre easy... it's the wheels I need confirmation on.

     

    A Slot-it in line rear end will go a long way to making this model much, much better... as you will read as I add to this, yet another one of "rosco's" ongoing novels...

     

    I did a lot of work to get my fleet of Slot-It GT40's to a very level and developed stage - I have every intention of again getting the very best out of this model....

     

    Thank you to all who have replied - I will post from time to time as this develops... but, I again re-iterate - the chassis and gear thrown in with the great body as a model are simply rubbish....

     

    I do appreciate the new owner at Flyslot it doing his utmost to stay in business... and can also appreciate that being able to furnish a generic chassis to perhaps fit (almost) a range of great bodies is economically sane - it's the standard of that chassis which will most likely bring the venture to cessation.. and, I do very much hope this person reads my comments....

     

    As Phil has stated, Slot-It have my vote for value.... they might have just a little bit more work to do on body detail with some models - but their consistent and economical value-for-money running gear is simply superb... not absolutely perfect - but compared to the competition.... superb.... thank you Slot-It.

     

    Oh, and before I again bore the living daylights out of everyone with reams and reams of text... some pix - not great... and no, Ember - as you can clearly see - I haven't found that set of close up filters yet.....

     

    LolaT70body001_zps4dc4da36.jpg

     

    LolaT70body003_zps7ad67153.jpg

     

    LolaT70body002_zpsd3f93754.jpg

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  15. As promised.... and less words...

     

    Cooper #2 has reached chassis track running stage - only now needing the leads to be attached.

    The rear axle has been shimmed down to 0.1 mm on both sides of the crown - it runs in beautiful mesh with the pinion and within the rear bracket bushes.

     

    Cooper1gearset_zps4487b51b.jpg

     

    The guide has now finally been fitted - a huge job to ream out the guide tube and sand down the guide post.

     

    Cooper1guideheight001_zpsb57f0ff6.jpg

     

     

    Three shims were used to set the guide height - all hand made from brass strip.

    The guide sits with just the thickness of the braid between it and the building board - with all four tyres firmly on the board.

     

    Cooper1guideheight002_zpsb56f46c0.jpg

     

    And, for those unbelievers that I was actually making up two of these great little cars.... here is Cooper #1 behind Cooper #2....

     

    Chassis1amp2001_zpsd32758ba.jpg

     

    I'll now rest #2 for a spell whilst #1 catches up in the build process.. it's how I'm running these builds - they are "leap-frogging"... in that way, neither is the test dummy - and they should both come through the build process relatively equal...

     

    Once #1 reaches #2 - it will be time to return to the bodies.... whilst I contemplate how the suspension is going to be fabricated and fitted....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  16. Ok, little bump along to catch up with proceedings.

    I now have two powered chassis which run on the bench like a dream - the precious little bit of dressing I did to the pinons has really paid off. These gear-sets run ever so sweetly on the Slot-It 3/32" hardened steel axles I am using.

    I am at the point of gluing and truing tyres. I have done a lot better with the front ones than the rears... I might have to address what's going on with the rears, but they are pretty much within what I want them to be... just a bit more "truing".

    Ok question time - front guide.

    I was going to use the Slot-It revision 2 guide with four grub screws, but it was suggested to me that this would cause issues with "corner marshalls" - I still don't know why, but I'm not really savvy with racing events and procedures yet....

    I did take advice and order in the Slot-it universal HRS guide for plastic track - and this is causing grief.

    I have had to change my bearing tube size - and can't find one which is a snug fit.....

    Which sized tube do members use for these guides - the guide pin is too large for 5/32" OD brass tube - and too narrow for the next size up... I'm hoping there is something available which will prevent me having to dress down the pin and ream out the tube like I spent nearly two hours doing yesterday.... I have another 3 of these set-ups to complete.... if there's tubing available for this recommended guide - I'd sure like to know about it......

    For the front axle assemblies - I've managed to get them running ever so free, yet with minimal run-out.

    I used 1/8" brass tubing for the bearing - which was soldered to the front bracket.

    Inside this, I fitted a "hollow" 3/32" Slot-It axle. On the inner hub faces I fitted a 3/32" 0.25 mm thick thrust washer then added the narrow little RD wheels (absolutely perfect, Steve). I then fitted another thrust washer outboard and used a Slot-It brass eyelet which was inserted into the hollow axle.

    One of these eyelets was crushed slightly and a very small coating of Loctite ensures that it won't come out.

    I will repeat this on the other end when I have completed the suspension detail...

    Final trimming to length of the axle is yet to be determined - but at present, I'm within another 0.25 mm thrust washer .. which I might just add to the assembly.

    The running of the wheels is very, very free - and there is ever so little wobble in the tracking of the front wheels - if I remove all of this the wheels will drag.. so, I'm of the opinion it better/more advantageous to run as is....

    Once the guide issues are rectified - I can then place the model on a track and do some "testing".... so, folk - another great sequel to "Tolstoys W&P"... but one I hope someone might glean some info from....


  17. I have probably been spoiled by the great run of Slot-It cars I have recently amassed...... plus the ongoing learning experience of building some scratch built chassis.....

     

    I have recently joined a local slot group and was warmly welcomed in my introduction to the club.

    I must state, I love these routed tracks!

     

    A loan car and controller found me getting much better lap times than I believed I was capable of.

     

    So much so, that I wanted the very car I was using.... a "Fly" Lola T70. I was told they were no longer available in the shops - but some came up from time to time on ebay....

     

    Impulsively, I set about procuring one when I got home... and found just one.. "mint condition, never used" so - bought it.

     

    I sent messages to my new club members who replied that I had not, fact - bought a Fly - but a FlySlot.... all news to me - I believed the word "Fly" was akin to Scaley... as an abbreviation.

    I was told that the FlySlot version was not in the same ball park as the great little car I had used....

     

    I left an open mind, not wanting to dislike the poor little thing before casting judgement.

    The car arrived and when I took it out of the box - the rear was jammed up.... I didn't want to look into it any further at that stage - having far too much on my workbench.. so, just left it... until last night.

     

    The body and paintwork are simply brilliant.... and the in-line motor is very securely held in the chassis - that's as far as my positive comments go.... full stop!

     

    The rear axle had been forced up out of the chassis - which was obviously the reason for the jammed gears.

    The pinion was marked but the crown appeared undamaged.

     

    The rear wheels were completely out of true - which seemed more related to how they were pushed on than anything else, so I removed them.

     

    They were pressed on over axle splines. These splines were not complete... some of them ending only half way along.

     

    I filed them out to the end of the axle using a triangle file and found the wheels to fit much better.

     

    When I placed the assembly on the Tyre Razor - I found the axle bent... and was almost shocked to find how easily the soft metal was.... this obviously happened when "someone" tried to force the bushes into the chassis with it out of alignment.

    I did my best over about half an hour - and came out with something very close to true.

     

    With the wheels now running almost squarely to the axle, I turned them down which resulted in a reasonable result..

    I don't believe I took very much - mainly just scraping off the silver paint and a touch here and there into the black plastic to get a solid and smooth finish.... I would expect that I took less than 1 mm in the process.

     

    I fitted the tyres and was about to true them to the now much better wheels - but they are now a very loose fit.. so, we are looking for some MJK's to replace them. I'm not sure what the compound is - it certainly isn't urethane... most likely a soft rubber...

    I am allowed to fit MJK tyres and keep within the rules for the class.

     

    The crown was way off centre - I measured the distances from the wheel-arches to crown centre slot and forced it along the spline.

     

    I then fitted the assembly back into the chassis, lubed up the plastic bearings and connected very low power to the motor.

     

    To say I was disappointed with the noise and out of true the crown and pinion ran is probably an understatement.

     

    I set about cleaning up the crown and moved the pinion to centre the mesh.

     

    Again, powering up did not make an awful lot of difference to the noise... but some toothpaste mixed with brasso eventually quietened down the "din" to some extent.

     

    I found that there were remnants of moulding "pips" still in the crown - then removed them... that made a bit of a difference - but now, there seemed to be more noise coming from the motor than the gear mesh..... I don't know what motor FlySlot use, but it has a black end bell on the pinion end of the shaft... I am guessing perhaps that it's probably an 18k motor... no idea...

     

    After about a 20 minute run on low to mid power - the motor certainly complained less.... and I was able to get a consistent slow speed at around half a volt.. without stalling on any high points...

     

    I'd love to replace the entire rear assembly with a hardened steel axle, alloy hubs and a Slot-It crown - plus an orange bell Slot-It motor...... the same as all my other Slot-It cars came with - but I'm not allowed, according to club rules for the class...

     

    So, guess I had just better buck up and do the best with this great looking little model - it would be such a much better model with a decent side-winder chassis and some top end running gear......

     

    I will employ the chassis straightening technique I used on all my Slot-It cars..... the hot water/metal plate/magnet method.

    I'd love to fit spherical bearings to the front axle... will have to chase that up with the club...

    The very sloppy fit of the front axle assembly brings back memories of the early Scalextric "flop and drop" setup - this one even has very poor side play...... another session up at the front end might rectify much of this.... last night's effort (ending at nearly 02:00) was just to get the back end "happy"......

     

    For my first FlySlot model - I must say that in my opinion, I believe they have let themselves down terribly .. perhaps the wonderful body emanated from the former and now defunct "Fly" era.... this chassis, "Made in Spain" - is an unworthy attempt to "ride the sheep's back" using a formerly great reputation...

     

    As for pricing comparison - unless you really want the great body that this model comes with, I certainly wouldn't recommend going beyond Slot-It's great value to get to FlySlot..... my opinion, folk.... perhaps this was a "dodgy" model.... I don't know - but I'm very hesitant to chase up another FlySlot if a Slot-It can be found to fill my requirements...

     

    Blunt, folk - but honest... the body is a beauty to behold, but..........

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  18. Just a little bump along - work continues... but had to take a few steps backwards to sort some issues out.

     

    Great as they are, I might just suggest anyone using brackets should check them accurately before assembling a chassis - saves a lot of grief later when things just won't line up.

     

    Current state of build - two rolling chassis with motors/gears and wheels all running free and true.

     

    There is a difference of 0.6 mm in wheelbase between the two chassis - built on the same plate, I can't explain why they were different - the rods used for locating axle positions and the posts to retain them were in identical position... I'm not unhappy with the end result, just can't account for the discrepancy.. and it's annoying me.

     

    Waiting on Slot-It HRS plastic guides with screw fitting to set up guide height.

    Waiting on Professor Motor silicone lead.

     

    Should be able to run the chassis' once both these are added.

     

    Pix soon.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  19. Nice work, Phil - mine just doesn't look right without the Virginia filters advertising.

    I'm wondering if one of our decal guru's has considered making up some accurate font and size for the genuine company lettering.

     

    I believed my L34 was missing something - on the front... one of the air scoops - but I note that all others are the same... guess Scalextric were accurate to replicate the proto-type.... I had not ever noticed this.

     

    Now, before I run it - anyone resolved any issues with the model yet?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  20. Ok folk - this little project is becoming obsessive - I left the flying field at lunchtime yesterday in perfect weather/company - to come home and do more on these models....

    Today - more developments - another two parcels arrived.... all my spacers, axles, bushes and eyelets arrived... by courier.. then, the postie brought me a yellow package from Canada.... yippee - my tyres...... opened it up to find 5 BWA motors from D'Art - and I believed I'd be waiting for much longer.... now, if only for the last package to come in....

     

    I have found a local re-seller for uninsulated ferules.... right in a neighboring suburb - Nunuwading. Whether they will let me purchase direct is not known yet.... but it might just save on shipping....

     

    All wheel inserts finished - about an hour each.

     

    I have worked out my front axle arrangement and believe it is going to be as friction free as anything yet employed.... thanks to Munter and Phil for your kind and valued contributions.

     

    Bodywork continues.

     

    I will post some pix shortly - but for now, this is probably enough to avoid annoying you with my dribble....

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  21. Hmmmmm... macro - now there's a thought.... I'm just using the 17~85 Canon zoom.....I zoom to the full 85 then I come up as close as the AF will allow.

    I do try to keep the aperture up as high as I can... but, unless I go into total manual - "something" in the camera software seems to stuff up the lighting.....

     

    Great colour, Ember... I haven't been game to try a dual action brush..

     

    frats,

    Rosco

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