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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Ok folk, time to post some more up.... Cooper #2 is nearly done... a little fit of fitting out and it's ready to be sent off to the Marshal's Paddock for the upcoming Tasman Cup proxy series... First up... took a while, and the face will have to be re-painted... poor chap looks like he has jaundice.... will use some Vallejo flesh paint on him tomorrow... love the detail I got out of the mold... We're out of the paint shop... all done. I was a bit concerned the white over gold would be a bit bland, but the black numerals and tyres seem to have drawn it all together. I still have to fit the mirrors and fuel caps plus some detail work on the rear canopy mount and Cooper badge.. but it's pretty much done. I spent all evening on the steering wheel... I made this one up with styrene rod and sheet. It is drilled with an 0.5 mm drill and there is also a 1.0 mm steering column which I drilled through as well. A 0.5 mm brass rod will hold it all together and that will be glued into the dash. The decals for the gauges come from one of Patto's sheets.. it fits the Cooper dash perfectly. I have to clear coat it with floor polish tomorrow - then the steering wheel can go in... then the driver.. and when all is set in place - finish off with the windscreen... So, my entry is nearly there... chassis is finished and runs very sweetly... I believe this one is actually a bit better than Cooper #1.. even if it was a bit rushed. until next.... frats, Rosco
  2. Further, although I take great enjoyment and pride in scratch-building - I have recently begun to acquire and collect some white kits. My first was a GT-40 from Slot-It, which I found magnificent.... the detailing accessories included in the kit were simply a dream to reach for.... instead of having to create them as in scratch-building... I have now added four more white kits to my collection - none of them yet commenced. These are all Thunderslot models, one McLaren M6A, one Lola T70 Mk 3 and two of the Elva McLarens... which I simply love. I have only loose-fitted one of the kits, and it went together brilliantly - with only two small locating holes which needed re-drilling in the entire kit. If the remaining white kit models are the same - I can foresee many more Thunderslot white kits coming this way.. And yes - white kits as a pre-cursor may very well give indication to manufacturers as to popular liveries... I am certain they watch what we do - and read what we post..... I'm also certain that there are many members in this forum who are yet to commit to either white kits or scratch building - and I would encourage anyone with even the feintest of interest to engage.... none of it is what I would call "hard" - but it does take patience and time.... both demands which I also appreciate many are not yet flowered in.... Painting is probably one of the easiest places to make a start... all of us have age old and battered around models that can be brought up to amazing new additions to a collection..... always just remember - it's the paint that most people see, after recognising a model.... and it's only the paint that is for the most part - what they see of the model..... master that, and you are well on your way to creating some very highly sought after models...... frats, Rosco
  3. Exactly, SlotsNZ..... This hobby has a much wider and more diverse spectrum than the name might suggest.. although it is cars which are predominant, and running them in tracks with slots in them is the main stream purpose..... it should never be concluded that the only facet is racing or running them.... I am by no means expert in any of these facets - but my experience in almost all pertaining to this hobby are resultant from many years in it.... along with other modeling hobbies - which I am happy to state that lend themselves very well to each other.. Painting a model is probably the most critical static component of what eventuates as a model.... for the most, it's the paint that people see.... the wheels, tyres and fittings are secondary to what a well painted model can bring modeling into scale reality... and it is in this thread, which I am a little surprised to find - little information has been previously thrown up for members to refer to.. Of course, we could fire off some requests to model paint suppliers - I have watched and read many on-line such productions.... sadly, many of them are little more than chest-beating and "like" searching claims at any exacting usefulness.... and some of them, I'm annoyed to state - are unworthy of what they suggest..... There is a great publication called "painting miniatures" which I have buried away somewhere in a hard-drive... for me, it gave me very much background and base-line fact when I began to struggle with many of the finer demands.... simple tricks which made achieving a more detailed result without demanding tens of hours in setting up to do so.... it is probably my go-to doc that I reference if I get stuck.... or if something doesn't come up as expected... there is always reason - finding the reason is not always easy.... I have seen some amazing painting and decal work in this forum.. and hold high hopes that those who clearly show capability - will chime in with the "secrets" held to produce such high calibre work.... My painting work is pretty basic, at most some finescale masking and a little fine hand brushing detail out.... but I believe I can bring anyone up to where I'm at pretty easily with a little patience and some practice.... frats, Rosco
  4. All good, SlotsNZ... if you don't need all of the info above... hopefully, others in the forum may be motivated........ personally, I find the modeling aspect of slot cars equally as appealing as the running of them...... lover, not a fighter..... oops.. meant to say - modeler, not a slotter... frats, Rosco
  5. Ok, answered almost all I need to know to offer suggestions, SlotsNZ... Whatever you do - do not soak in acetone... it will eat into the plastic and do irrepairable damage.... acetone is great for cleaning airbrushes and metal parts etc... but keep the blasted stuff away from plastic....so too - turps. Metho can often be used to wash paint off... particularly anything sprayed with an acrylic... If all else fails, I have used brake fluid to remove paint from model locomotives that were sprayed at the Athearn factory in the US.... it takes a bit of getting off... but brake fluid was the only stuff that would melt into the paint without destroying the plastic of the model.. Be careful if you use Windex around anything painted in acrylic too... it will fuse the paint... I don't believe factory paint that the big manufacturers use is acrylic... acrylic is too soft and does not stand up to the rigors of slot car racing/handling.... lacquer is your friend, but it has nasty stuff in it - so spray in a garage etc with plenty of ventilation.. and keep the mist away from you nose and mouth.... and eyes. Having said that - I've been spraying for over 40 years and have taken very little precautions in the way of protection... still here, still upright and still breathing... sprayed some pretty ordinary paints over the years - but I do take all precautions I can with two pack... keep away from that stuff for modeling... it has iso-cyanide in it... and other stuff.... The Tamiya TS (aerosol) range are what I believe to be lacquer... they might attack bare plastic, but I haven't had issue with it (yet)... providing you don't flood it on, and spray a light coat or two over what's already on the model - you can then pool it up to get a great gloss finish. Once you get that lovely gloss - you have to cut your hands off... and simply walk away - most people make the huge mistake of trying to get even more gloss out of it... and all paint has it's point where it will run...... Tamiya TS is very user friendly - but it will run if you go too far... so, once you get the wet gloss look - leave it... close the door and walk away to find something else to do..... and - turn off the lights.... bugs love wet paint... and lights will attract them...... TS will touch dry quite quickly.... don't be tempted... leave it for at least a couple of hours before even thinking about looking at it.... and a day before handling it... You can tell someone that there are exactly 17 billion 350 million and 6 stars in the sky - and nearly everyone will believe you...... but, you put a "wet paint" sign on something - and everyone wants to test it to see if it's dry.... grrrrr.... Wet paint - leave it alone... if you're happy with the finish - anything you do next will ruin it....... get that lovely gloss up - and stop.... walk away and lock it up.... I like to leave anything painted a day or two - then place it outside in the fresh air and in sun for short spells at a time (preventing it getting too hot).... I have found this pulls the paint down better (lets the thinners escape up through the paint) and tends to make the outer surface of it much harder... (bakes it) just me, but I find it works. Sanding - all paint benefits from a light sand....... model paint is no different. Where we have a difference is between acrylic and lacquer.... acrylic benefits from a light sand better - because the following coat will not fuse (melt) sufficiently into the previous acrylic... so, a very light sand - just enough to deglaze the gloss.. that's heaps... it becomes a physical keying surface for the paint to "grip" onto... Having said that, I know Tamiya acrylic has some fusing agents in it... it will attack decals... I don't know if this is the case with other brands of acrylic paint.... Lacquer paint (like TS) has thinners in it which will actually fuse (melt) what's it is being sprayed onto... so, it will do some of that "keying" for you... I have had success with spraying lacquer directly over washed and dried models... without any keying (sanding)... but, me being me - I still like to give anything I want to paint a light sand.... Most people get into trouble with painting-over by not cleaning and drying first or failing to sand when using a paint which will not fuse into previous coats.... Paint can "peel", "chip" or "blister"....chipping more prevalent in slot cars due to the knocks and bumps they get... a hit on a floor will often cause a crack - and before long - crap has got under it and it simply chips off..... so, I like to give things a light sand... more grip, and a better chance for the following paint to fuse into what's underneath and then run it under the tap with an old toothbrush.... warm (not hot) water and some dishwashing liquid.... lightly rub and thoroughly rinse. I use an old flat paint brush, which over the years has almost lost its bristles... the brush is about 1/2" wide and the bristles are now down to about 1/4"... they are very fine, but because they are so short. they are stiff enough to remove embedded sanding residue and polishing compound... just be careful not to damage your surface by the metal nose of the brush... Most important - dry... forced air dry.... hair-dryer at a good distance (way too hot on high setting) and as fast as the fan can pump air over it.... use the cool function and get in really close. Don't forget to dry out the underside...... any trapped water "will" find it's way out and onto the lovely fresh gloss finish on the outside you have just perfected.... so - start clean and dry.. and you're half way there to a good finish. If you have compressed air - all the better.. but keep the pressure down to around 15 psi.... too great a pressure will have you on your hands and knees looking for parts on the floor...! been there, done that... When we come to sanding... we are not talking about getting out the Makita orbital sander and grinding away.... we only need to deglaze... take off the mirror gloss of the paint.... rubbed back to matt is good, but you don't need to go that far .... dull would be fine...... With all sanding - the major concern is removing detail.... so, we try to avoid those areas.... and nudge up to the edge of them... As for paper grade.... I find 1200 wet/dry too harsh... and go more towards 1500 and 2000.... they will cut fine and will generally not gouge into paint...... I get my fine grade paper from an auto body paint shop.... they use this very fine paper for "de-nibbing" 2 pack... it is great for modeling.. and brings up aluminium to an amazing finish prior to polishing... If it gets blocked when sanding - throw it away... don't try to clean it. If you feel anything "rubbly" or the paper does not rub properly - take a look a the surface of it... if you have little spots of paint... throw it away and start fresh... you'll do more damage by "gouging" the paint with this blocked paper than by cutting into the fresh surface with your fingernails... which brings me to another point... keep your fingernails short - they damage soft paint very easily... For flat sections.... use a rubbing block under the paper... anything fairly firm with the paper wrapped around it will bring very good results for keeping the surface free of undulations.... Use a softer backing block for curved areas.. a small piece of rubber cut to size is good.... and don't sand "across" the crowns - but along them and try to "roll" the sanding over as you go along... it stops ridges forming... like the edges of a 50c piece.... Sanding across the crowns or high spots - will certainly find you rubbing all the paint off very quickly...sanding along them gives you more control.... but only a few passes are necessary to deglaze those areas... sanding flats might take a bit more effort... but once you see the gloss gone - stop... no need to go any further - you've done the work... Dust - herein lay the biggest bug-bear of painting models...... "anything" will be attracted to a lovely wet glossy surface... learning "where" that blasted stuff comes from is a life-long learning curve... it seems, the greater the finish you get - the more likely you'll get dust to ruin it.... I never seem to have a problem when I do a "quickie" and simply put a coat of paint down to pretty something up ... covering damage ... but - after spending an entire week getting a model ready for top coats... after putty, primer and guide coats have brought up a magic surface..... when I spray that gloss coat - I'll get dust ruin it.... just as I have with the current Cooper for the upcoming Tasman proxy series... lovely gold paint, clear coated twice with decanted lacquer... and the final coat - dust..... grrrrr it's too late to rub it all back now.. and it's simply going to have to run warts and all.... I'm under the pump to finish this model.. chassis is nowhere near ready and I have yet to design some detail work for the body... One thing often over-looked in preventing dust... is the "dirty old me" factor....... you can scrupulously clean, dust and dry an area to paint in... have a model perfectly prepared for paint... and then spray it.... only to find dust gets onto the surface... from apparently "nowhere"... I can adamantly state - a lot of that dust will come from your clothing... so, try to keep arm movements up close to wet paint to a minimum ... and dust yourself off before going into the paint parlour.... it comes out of your hair (if you are like me and struggle to have kept a cranial coverage) ... so, just be mindful you can be the greatest threat to your fresh glossy finish. Lastly - you can polish paint... the Tamiya range of compounding products work well.... but, be warned - rub too hard and you are soon back to the primer underneath... or through the thin clear coat... we only need to remove surface dust and slight imperfections.. we are not giving it a "cut and polish"... compounding paste is a "fix" not a polish... if it doesn't need fixing - don't compound it... Yes, you can beat factory paint..... and if I teach you how to "judge" a finish - I'm more than likely to ruin you for life..... you'll look at everything that is painted from then on... and none of you models will ever look "good" to you again... so, before we go to that step - think very carefully if you want to be empowered with that ability.... For the main, factory paint is good.... more modern paint is much better, but it's more than likely done with robots and baking ovens.... I can get pleasing results, rarely get a perfect one - but often find I can bring up a finish to either equal or better many of the larger brand slot car manufacturers.... if I can keep dust away from it... and fingerprints..... handling models, in the slot car world - is not noted for being "gentle" and caring.... everyone wants their car back on the track... and in the heat of the event... not a great deal of thought is put into the painstaking hours of prep and finish.... it's a slot car, for goodness sake.... but, to some of us... it's a model.... and fills both entities... you can have both, but you need to emplace some prevention... your choice of the TS lacquer is probably one of the greatest of those... I have suffered many finger prints on models that were sprayed in acrylic... even with clear lacquer top coats... the acrylic underneath remains soft... and if a model is gripped firmly to perform some maintenance etc... I have noted that fingerprints show up in the finish.... so - until acrylic can be modified to fully cure out hard... I'll stick with lacquer, thank you... just be mindful of the nasties in it... and keep it away from your kids/pets...... Ok.. that should get us going.... throw some more at me, and I'll answer as best I can... Not an authority on any subject, SlotsNZ.. but what I offer is the best of what I have experienced...... best qualification in the world.. "QBE"... qualified by experience.... And finally, for any modeler.... I cannot make suggestion stronger to anyone wishing to paint a model than to work towards an airbrush... the versatility of being able to spray very fine paint and do detail work is way out of reach of any aerosol... It can get expensive, but in today's values.... a quality airbrush is a fraction of what they were when I bought my first little Badger 200 over 40 years ago... and it is still as good as the day I bought it... you don't need a compressor to begin with... but they are undoubtedly the next port of call once you pick up an airbrush... frats, Rosco
  6. Thanks Alan, fingers considered slapped... frats, Rosco
  7. Hi SlotsNZ, need to know a couple of things first before I make suggestion. 1 - Do you have an airbrush? 2 - what type of paint are you intending to use? acrylic or lacquer? 3 - are you making any modifications/additions to the existing model? 4 - is the "plain" white the original painted colour of the model, or is it bare plastic? 5 - what is the level of finish you want to achieve? frats, Rosco
  8. Hi Warren, I believe Bob Jane's Torana and Monaro was a more tangerine colour than the red of the HDT..... You may have to mix your own, more likely a combination of red and yellow..... If you have Adobe Photo-shop, you can download a pic from the web of Jane's Monaro and paint bucket a sample of it.... Get one of the HDT cars as well and compare the swabs. That way, you'll see how much of what you need to add to the red to produce the tangerine shade... That's what I did to match the LJ XU-1 Torana for Patto's decals... I believe I got very close - and the colour is not what Scalextric used on the later A9-X or earlier L-34... If you don't have Photo-shop, you could ask someone who does have it.... I sent a few emails to Scalextric, who simply didn't know what paint was used on the L-34 or A9-X... they made contact twice with the factory in China - but they refused to release any information about the paint used..... it was always my suspicion that they used Tamiya - maybe it was a special commercial mix by Tamiya for Scalextric... we'll never know. But, to be fair - Scalextric did get back to me twice in an attempt to give me the information... I doubt you get an exact paint out of a bottle... but it's not difficult to mix your own. I use a very small syringe for exacting mixes of both colours... And, if you do go that way - write down and record somewhere you mix ratio...... for touch ups. Tamiya paints have been fairly stable and consistent in my experience so far..... Floquil were one of the worst for consistent paint... but the greatest for fine pigment and spray ability... frats, Rosco
  9. Or do a third and add the canopy for a shaggin' wagin'..... that'd pull the ladies.... in pink..... they love that colour. To be cryptic... add some of Patto's "Moon Equipped" decals.... Present it to your other half as a present... frats, Rosco
  10. I don't know that Munter would have a ute, Mac...... be a challenge for him. He does a great job of everything I've purchased from him.... frats, Rosco
  11. Good work, Mac..... are you going to mold it? frats, Rosco
  12. You and me both, Malomay... but, Longford was a very large part of the Tasman Cup.... and it is my belief that the OP would not be too greatly annoyed for information in the history of the series... And yes - maybe one day, some savvy up and coming local entrepeneur will seize on what remains of the Longford circuit and actually do something about making it a tourist attraction... we can only hope..... some signage and boards with period pix would go a long way to creating interest.... perhaps, even - the Pub could sponsor locating them with reference to their own in house display to attract patronage.... that would be a good start.... frats, Rosco
  13. He did get his name on a little HB 4 cyl Torana.... wow! - was that an appreciation! Sadly, a lot of our world famous sportspeople had to go overseas to get recognition.... locally, they were held in the highest of esteems.... but to be accredited with international acclaim - it was necessary to front the world venues....... and many/most did. It is just so sad, that we had such an international venue at Longford.... and aside from Albert Park lake.... I am scratching my balding head to think of one former such circuit which still exists. Of course, we have the "Mountain"... in which the world came to us (the mountain must go to Mohammed syndrome)... and it was not until international competitors began to come here, the rest of the world began to watch....... and many international followers in motor sport believed their local favorites who came down under would "show" we in the never never how to win a race....... and were dismally disappointed that these icons did so poorly..... it was then, the world stood up and began to look down here... Such an opportunity lost - Longford was, and in my mind always will be one circuit which stood out..... and sadly was let to go to ruin... It's a sad testament, Shaynus - that what could have been more than a viable proposition - was let go and lost forever. Longford is a long circuit, with some intricate driving demands.. the causeway and the two bridges... not to mention "pub corner" and the famous railway level crossing where cars often were completely airborne.... all from an almost first gear corner at the pub - and in one short stretch to the crossing on Tannery Road..... and beyond what is now a large roundabout - the photo above taken beyond that roundabout on a stretch of Tannery Road which is now rarely open.... and when open, only as an access road to a little park where you can launch a canoe.... It's a lovely area.... and there are member of this forum who have driven the entire circuit before it was closed and cut up..... the little township of Longford, Tasmania was very high on my list of places to visit in 2015 when we spent 6 weeks down in there touring in the caravan... the Penny Farthing races at Evandale were also on whilst we were there.... and the large Launceston airport is only a stone's throw from both Symonds Plain and Longford..... Disappointed with Symonds Plain... small circuit with tight bends.... I don't believe Taswegians of today can appreciate what they lost when they cut up Longford..... frats, Rosco
  14. Sorry to disappoint your observation, Shaynus..... but Rosco does not partake of intoxicating beverage........ however, the euphoria of being at such an historic and wonderful trip down memory lane certainly could be interpreted as similarly effective in the pic above..... The long straight is a back road - and I wonder how many people who know of its history go for a spin on it..... they reached some incredible speeds down to pit corner before making the very sharp angled backwards turn towards the water tower straight.... Anyone in the area who has not seen what remains of the old Longford "International" circuit would be well advised to spend a bit of time .... it was a big circuit, but sadly - even though the Pub has some of the history up on its walls....... no one has seized on the opportunity to signpost the old circuit, and unless you have an intimate knowledge of it - it's darned hard to find all the sections... one of them now being through a farm.... and another part of it now being part of a roundabout, the entrance to which is a new main road.... I put a post together in Auslot a number of years back with some pix.... I have all the GPS co-ordinates which will greatly assist anyone who wants to spend an hour in the area finding the old track....... Symons Plains isn't too far south from Longford.... and sadly, the local town progress association has failed miserably in not seizing upon the opportunity to claim this marvelous piece of Australian motor racing history and do something with it...... if not for the Pub, there is nothing in the town that we saw which would ever indicate this used to be an international location and platform for international racing... frats, Rosco
  15. Probably would have been run over, Malomay.......... the section of the former Longford circuit I chose is pretty much now unused... it was safe to lay down on the road and get my pic.... chose the crack in the bitumen to place the guide and have all four wheels on the circuit.... frats, Rosco
  16. Thanks Chas, My first T/C proxy entry a few years back was of Bill Patterson's T-53.. I believe he purchased it from Bib Stillwell and I'm not sure that Bib was original owner. I modeled my entry on a pic of Bill sitting in the car in 1964 at Longford, Tas..... including matching silver stripe over white of the car on his helmet... and the little air scoop on top of the bonnet. In fact, when I took our caravan down to Tasmania - I found the Longford circuit and placed my little T-53 on the very track its prototype would have raced on.... the now non-used section of Tannery Road leading down to the river... and our traveling companions took a pic of me getting "my shot"...... see if I can find some pix... My entry this year is not modelled on anything.... and is in fantasy livery.. I have not added the large amount of detail to this year's entry... but, it does have suspension arms and springs and four intake flutes under the cowl... I believe this is probably the bare minimum that the series for this year requires. I simply ran out of time.. and to include more detail in the torsion bar linkages in the rear would have probably put me out of reaching the deadline. At present, the body is sitting in Titanium Gold. It was my intention to overspray this with either a clear blue or clear green, and leave the gold as a stripe down the centre. I like the look of the titanium gold, and will now leave it.. but will spray a white stripe down the centre and round it off following the nose.... I did this with a Slot-It GT40 white kit, to mimic the Mother's car wax GT40 on their products... and was happy with the result.... so, this little T-53 will follow that livery... Wheel inserts will either be gold, white or I am throwing around "painting" them in Molotow chrome... I am yet to mess with that stuff yet - but today, now also have a 30 ml refill of it to be used in my very fine SOTAR Badger air-brush... with only a 0.21 needle set... I am hopeful that this brush will spray the very fine chrome ink with some satisfaction... we'll see... Thanks for the info on T-53's.... and yes, I have both Phil's resin kit (this model) and also Munter's (previous entry). I do like the look of these cars... they are a bit longer and wider than many of the competitors.. but I just happen to like them... and love the history of the car - including the fire-pump engine which was used .... and the revolutionary concept of the chassis.... My third Cooper T-53 will more than likely be a more scale-like attempt... with a lot of detail. And I will have to concede to making up yet another British Racing Green with white striped version to add it to my collection... I have two more sets of Ranch Design crowns, pinions and wheels yet.. so - there will be a "fourth" '60's GP/Tasman car.... more than likely, it won't be a Cooper T-53... and maybe a Brabham - not sure which one... but I may break away and choose one where there is engine detail behind the driver... any suggestions.... a V8 would be my choice.. something I can add engine detail to... frats, Rosco
  17. As I age Kevan.... I'm getting more frail.... my hand is forced with making models lighter.. so that I can carry more...... frats, Rosco
  18. Contradiction in terms, Shaynus...."add" lightness.... I now flinch every time I am forced to lay another pass of very thin paint on this model..... I really have tried to keep this one light. Might all end up in a pile of bits the first time it hits a barrier..... but, OH&S will be happy to note that anyone needed to collect the remnants won't struggle with the effort to lift them...... frats, Rosco
  19. Thanks OS-62..... I'm hoping it will come up nicely with some Cooper grey chassis paint on it.... and maybe pick out some of the suspension detail in chrome ink..... maybe.... yet to be tried.. frats, Rosco
  20. Thanks Kevan, I'm in the "ball park" then..... let's see where it comes out with paint and all fittings.... I have tried to go light with this build... stand alone chassis without any fitting is 14.4 g and bare body 6.1 g... Chassis balance = front 8.1 g - rear 6.3 g....... changes dramatically with motor and screws fitted. Body balance = front 4.0 g- rear 2.1 g frats, Rosco
  21. Yes, Kevan.... from Ranch Design - so too the wheels. Ember put me onto the small crowns when she was making her first T/C proxy entry.... she found them when looking for a very small crown to fit inside some tiny models.. which she took a passion into adding to her collection. From memory, RD made them for 1/64 scale F1's..... you might be able to contact Steve and find out if he still has the tools for cutting these - but I doubt he'd do a small run... so, perhaps anyone in this forum should make contact and pool up an order.. that might tempt him into a production run. Steve at Ranch Design made four sets of the crown/pinion and wheels for me... I had intentions of making four Coopers, but it now looks as if there will only be three... The wheels are excellent.. and the recess is a perfect fit for the trimmed down Cooper inserts that Munter adds to his kit... as I will use in this build. I don't know that there is any advantage using the small crown in a model which can be fitted with a larger one - but they mesh lovely, once you bed them in... key to it is setting them up with shims so that there is virtually no backlash in the mesh, nor side play in the axle between bushes.... I like to run them with only the graphite from a 2B pencil (softest).... it prevents muck getting into them from the track - grease and oil certainly attract it and the mesh suffers. Using this very soft graphite, they seem to stay very clean and the mesh does not "grow" tolerance. This second build is a lot lighter than build #1... I have deliberately tried to put this one on a strict diet... gouging out more from the body - especially anything up high, and trimming back a lot of excess brass in the brackets.... Can anyone tell me a ratio that is general rule of thumb for a weight balance between axles.... I have around 60% rear and 40% front (see, my Maths teacher didn't waste all of her time on me) at present.. but can add a little more if there is a more established formula..... I can't add weight out on the edges of the wire... it "just" clears the body now with enough for a floating fit..... and the body is so thin, I can't take it out any more. The wire rails just have clearance around the motor as well... I'm hoping this little model will be easy for the proxy teams to drive.... I don't have a layout, and have to rely on just a small plastic Scalextric track to ensure it will run smoothly..... so, as #1 was entered - it's pretty much a crude level of tune...... hopefully, it won't disgrace my work and be a slug.... that no-one really wants to run around a track.... Back working on the body today... a week should have the model almost completed... then back to the LJ. frats, Rosco
  22. Hi folk, taken a week, but finally finished the chassis build... ready for the paint shop for some etch primer - then the classic light grey gloss that Cooper used in their T-53's.... I have not gone to the same length with chassis detail in this build... I would not have time to get it ready for the upcoming Tasman Cup series... But, I did fit upper and lower wishbones.. the upper arms from 0.5 mm brass rod, the lower ones from 1.0 mm rod. The brake backing plates were carefully marked out, cut and drilled using a set of pointers and a ruler to mark them up... The front plates are soldered to the axle tube, the rear ones have clearance around the axle. The dampers and springs were made from 1.0 mm brass rod and the springs made by stripping some electrical lead and using the suitable sized strand which was wound around a darning needle... all soldered into place. I am not going to polish the brass - it is fairly rough after cleaning up with a diamond bit....... which will be an excellent surface for the 1K etch to get a mechanical purchase on. We are now back to the body.... it is currently in guide coat and awaits the second blocking down. My thinking for colour is transparent green over the top of gold.. leaving the gold as a centre strip which flares out around the nose..... and also the three roundels for the competitor number.... I do appreciate this model is not proto-typical of anything which did race.... but I am making use of the "fantasy" clause in the entrant conditions... Ok.. pix all explanatory... So, tomorrow we are back in the paint shop... frats, Rosco
  23. Thanks so much, Gary... I had not seen this before... Ross
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