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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Oops, forgot the pic. This model is nowhere near finished - I have "work" to do on those front fender vents.. but, the body is now coated with a generous coat of Ultra Clear... The chassis is done, so too the wheel inserts. I simply have too many models on the workbench at present - I completed a "Mr. Slotcar" McLaren M6A this evening - in a "colour shift" SMS paint called "Black Hole".. and overcoated it with Ultra Clear.. it has come up a treat... report later in one of my own threads... I have yet to sort out an interior for the LJ - and fit my hand made brass grille... headlights and a few adornments - it's really not that far off, but too many other models are screaming at me for attention... You can see the Molotow on the bumpers... it was a little dulled prior to coating Ultra Clear over it.... but it certainly didn't lose any more .. I'm keen to try it on the freshly Molotow painted parts I have curing out... The pic does not do the gloss and depth of the clear coat justice... and it is rock hard, yet the body can flex... I believe this to be a perfect medium for slot cars... only danger is - you have to dress up like an astronaut before you spray... I made a spray booth with three small computer fans some time back, and have a hose at the rear which vents the nasty stuff outside the garage - where I do most of my airbrushing... Apologies once again to the OP for the digression... LJ pic.. frats, Rosco
  2. Hi David, I am about to put a bit of a post together on SMS.. although I believe I have previously done this when first I found them.... So far, I'm really impressed with the range that I have thus far purchased and used - the Ultra Clear 2K is probably the standout of any clear coat I have used in all my hobbies and interests.... it simply glosses up to a magnificent depth.. and a clarity that has to be seen to be believed. I have not applied it directly over Patto's decals yet.. but have overcoated previously Pascoe's floor polish ones with absolutely no degradation. My little XU-1 Torana (see below) is an example... Patto's decals are exacting, the black leaves a little to be desired - whatever he is printing large areas of it with leaves a "pattern"... you may be able to pick this out. In the pic below, you can see a generous coat of Ultra Clear over the entire model.. including a mix ot Tamiya red and some others that i had to use to get the red I wanted.... The issue I have found with Tamiya is that it remains "printable".. and even after months, any pressing of your fingers into a really even and gloss surface will result in them being imbedded into the finish... I over coated the entire model with Ultra Clear and it is rock solid... Scott tells us that it is either "sandable" or can be polished out after 24 hours at 24C... I left mine three days and am currently polishing out some dust and other marks... the stuff is absolutely rock hard - even with Tamiya underneath.. I will also report, that I have found it works a treat on Molotow chrome... and I have coated many small parts which have been sitting for 4 moths - the coating of Ultra Clear has not dulled nor reduced the mirror finish in those parts... I have another batch of Molotow parts curing out and will over-coat those in a week's time.. maybe a fortnight... I am really hoping I can preserve that great mirror chrome that Molotow produces... if Ultra Clear will do this - I believe I may have stumbled onto something which will be used exclusively for chrome parts on our slot cars which cop an awful lot of abuse... Back to the OP (apologies for swamping)... I am yet to learn of any way to slow enamel paint down from drying - the blasted stuff will not dry quick enough for me... it is one of the slowest drying/curing paints I have used... I believe a thinner may be what you seek .. for it to flow out better, but of course - this will demand multiple coats and possibly some "keying" in between them - enamel does not stick well to gloss (except glass - which has always been a paradox for me)...... enamel will not "fuse" into previous coats - so, must be given a "keying" (sanding) of the surface for it to get a grip... or it will chip/peel/flake.. and this is more likely with our slot car hobby... Will update my SMS thread - or create one if I haven't yet done so... this SMS paint is simply amazing, and I would urge everyone who airbrushes to at least try a bottle.. I believe it will change you choice in paints.. frats, Rosco
  3. Hi Lotus 24 - I'm sorry but I can't answer your question - I am not in love with Enamels... nor Tamiya acrylics. I have to ask, why do you want a retarder for Enamel?... it is slow drying at the best of times. Perhaps you seek a "leveller"?... something which will allow the paint to flow out better... Enamel thinners will do this, but at the risk of compromising the very hard wearing effect of enamel. If I were to suggest an alternative - taek a peek at SMS paints... made here in Oz... Scott is a fellow modeller, and set up the business to satisfy the needs of "local" market... which he has done more than successfully. He has recently released a new range, which is brushable... or can be thinned down for airbrush use. His "premium" range of airbrush paints are to behold - they are simply brilliant to use, and hard wearing... as opposed to Tamiya acrylic, which I find I can still imprint fingerprints into a well finished surface months after painting... such is not the case with SMS.. If you are looking for a very hard wearing clear coat - nothing comes close to his "Ultra-Clear" 2K kit... but, be warned - this stuff is iso-cyanate - exactly the same as the auto shops used to use.... it's brilliant paint, and is almost diamond hard - yet flexible... ideal for our application. It is only this "Ultra clear" which is 2K... the rest is very similar to automotive acrylic... Further, on his website - he explains the correct term of relevant types of paint... and it is clearly evident that his term "acrylic lacquer" is correct.... as opposed to Tamiya "acrylic" which is quite different. Let me know if I can suggest an answer to your retarder issue.... me? SMS.... I have boxes of Tamiya and other brands which will more than likely go into some dark corner storage space and I'll forget I have them.... frats, Rosco
  4. rosco01

    NSR GT40 Mk 2

    Thanks Bram, I haven't run any of my new cars yet.... no track. Normally, I spend a couple of hours setting up an 12.5 metre layout on the Bathurst weekend - looking forward to that so I can finally get to play with some new toys.... I have a fairly good understanding on how all the Slot-It GT-40's go.. it will be good to compare how this NSR one does, and yes - it has a slightly smaller motor than the other NSR's... only 165g/cm torque, but still up at 21.5 k... I'm starting to take a bit of notice of torque specs lately.... gives me something to work on with regards final weight of a model... rpms, I relate to gearing. I'm guessing this is what others do...? frats, Rosco
  5. rosco01

    NSR GT40 Mk 2

    Hi folk, wow, have I hit the deck running - seven cars lined up on my workbench all demanding they get closer to completion.. and another three to come - what have I done? Whilst we were up north, I ordered an NSR GT40 mk 2... I am very impressed with NSR models, and I expect there will be more to come... I had a good look at how it was set up ex factory, and something just wasn't right - I could not get module/chassis float when the chassis was fitted to the body, but it was fine on the bench minus body. I took a very close look for anything which may have been fouling - and sadly, NSR have made the exact same mistake that I suffered with all my Slot-It GT40's... that blasted plastic engine and intake manifold - it fouls the motor pod.. As you can see in the pic above, the tab melt method of fitting components did not allow much room to decrease the depth of the plastic engine/intake... There certainly wasn't enough clearance to be gained by simply chomping into the body of it... so, my plan was to remove it and do some trimming - then fit it further up into the body... Another area which needed attention was the power leads to the motor - they were first point of contact between the pod and the body.... I de-soldered and re-fitted them so that the leads and terminal were not proud of the motor body... We can see in the pic below, that the factory placement sits very low in the body - and this fouls the chassis motor and pod... In the pic below, we can see that I have attacked the plastic severely, just barely avoiding breaking through to what will be visible through the rear window of the model. I have also cut away the front mount and opted to fit it flush with the body cowl, rather than have it mounted underneath - this combination gave me sufficient clearance for the motor and pod to float within the adjustment I have set this model up with... So, here we have the side-one pic with motor fitted... and if you compare the first pic to this one - you'll note that a considerable amount of adding clearance needed to be emplaced... So, with a bit of work adjusting float and truing in the tyres... this model is pretty much good to go - it did need a bit of work but I believe it will be one of the best performing GT-40's that I have... the bottom dwellers are the two Scalextric ones I purchased when I re-entered the hobby seven or eight years back... what was I thinking - a second hand "mint" GT-40 I "won" at auction... and paid $85 delivered from W.A....... Scalextric - it has never run correctly, nor did the one I bought direct from a retailer shortly after... then - I found Slot-It, and so commenced a long affair with collecting SI GT40's... eventually building a white kit one that I call "Godzilla" - almost impossible to drive - huge motor, very low gearing... I've learned a bit since way back then.... Ok... one down - 9 to go. Currently on the bench are three NSR 86/89 F1's, two NSR Moslers, a Mr Slotcar McLaren M6A, two T/slot McLaren Elva's, a T/Slot Lola T70, a Revo-Slot Porsche 911 GT-2 white kit, two Revo Porsche 911 GT2's, a Revo Dodge viper and of course - work continues on the LJ XU-1 build.. it has to be completed before Bathurst next year - the 50th anniversary of when PB took it over the finish line to claim his first Bathurst in 1972.. Ok, guess I'm back.... frats, Rosco
  6. rosco01

    Nissan Bluebird

    Thanks Vlad, in r/c helicopters, we use a mix of cyano and baking soda to make certain parts rigid... the combination works very well in slot car applications as well. The procedure doesn't differentiate between which goes on first (chicken and egg syndrome), my personal preference is to coat the area with cyano then sprinkle baking soda over it... it can be sanded down once set. To stiffen up known areas in slot cars - e.g. bracing up the rear of the motor pod laterally to prevent twist across the axle - a bent piece of piano wire can be shaped for and interference fit between the pod side walls... once in position, the cyano/bs "cement" can be applied - it will hold the wire in place nicely. Yet to be proven how the mix copes with axle bush oil yet.. but so far, so good.... frats, Rosco
  7. rosco01

    Nissan Bluebird

    Thanks Vlad, I guess practice will reveal if the wall thickness is sufficiently resilient to withstand the riggors of slot car racing... Keen to hear of you resultant findings... frats, Rosco
  8. rosco01

    Track clips

    Hi Tony, sadly, I cannot view the pix you attach... frats, Rosco
  9. rosco01

    Nissan Bluebird

    By golly, Vlad.... you have done well with that.... you must be happy? frats, Rosco
  10. Welcome TonyAussie, One greybeard to another, with many similar interests - r/c aircraft, model railways and "tinkering". You don't state your location?... I'm in the far outer eastern suburbs of Melbourne, be nice if I had someone out this way to share the loneliness... Arthritis - warmer weather coming... time to get stuck in before the heat drives us all under a/c... and another window in Autumn before the cold makes our joints refuse to bend... Again, welcome aboard... don't be afraid to ask anything on modeling in here - it's a great forum. frats, Rosco
  11. Thanks Shaynus.... yes, I run Scalextric "sport" track... I'd prefer a wood layout, but space simply prevents my building one. I don't run magnets in any of my models... so, maybe I won't suffer the issue... we'll see.. and I'll report when the day I set a track up comes... thanks again, much appreciated. frats, Rosco
  12. Thanks Shaynus, I took a good look throught You Tube today and have picked up a lot..... Even the best of the best can be made better, quieter and smoother... Revo are no exception - some mods I'll definitely be including into mine. The fitting of silicone spacers on the underside of the body mount screws where they go into the chassis (not to be confused with the already fitted insulators between the chassis and the body) for one... and checking all the screws and nuts.... Adding "Gorilla Tape" to the chassis/pod mounts - makes Revo cars with aluminium chassis much quieter (removes metal on metal). Some great info out there on Revo cars if you look for it. Thunderslot can be made better as well... I have three of the McLaren's.... including the Elvis/Bruce McLaren one.. Few little tricks on positioning the motor pinion and setting the axle bushes into the chassis with nail-polish. Also, the front wheels/tyres - good demo on how to true them both up using nail-polish as the adhesive. Also, to add weight inside the total area of the triangular pod base.. plus some up on the outside of the chassis each side of the front pod mount... I have six NSR cars.. not so many mods to those, but some... apparently, they are pocket rockets out of the box - two Moslers and a GT-40 plus three 86-89 F1 cars... maybe more to come as well Lots to do... so little time left to get it all done... and - new cars arriving soon as well..... what have I done? I probably really need to join/form a club out here in the outer east of Melbourne... any takers? frats, Rosco
  13. thanks Old Man, I vaguely remembered this matter mentioned in dispatches.... frats, Rosco
  14. Thanks Pepsi.... screws, yes.... will do - nothing worse than one popping between the contact rails and blowing a fuse in a controller... Just as an aside, do any club tracks require that screws etc be covered by tape to ensure they don't foul or fall out?.... just asking. Thanks for the welcome back... so much to do, so little time left... 66 y.o. and counting (rapidly). frats, Rosco
  15. Hi folk, been a while..... I'm back and on the bench again continuing with work left over from May.... We escaped Vic lockdown (again) back on 27th May and got over the border into NSW with only 4 hours up our sleeve without need to go into hotel quarantine... So, did not have a chance to pack anything away - or come online to say I was taking a three/four month break from the hobby. Like last year, we had a wonderful four months far up north in sunny Queensland... and took nothing of any slot car form with me.. pity, I had times when I could have worked quite happily on a table out under the awning of the van.. but, the warning I got (through the back door sic).. left no time to throw anything in.... we finished packing what we had to take well after 22:00 the night before... So, whilst I was up there.. I ordered a few new cars... some yet to arrive, as they were ordered as late as two weeks back. My daughter took delivery of those who came in.... Apart from the unfinished models which have now mounted up and will take precedence to finish before I start on the newly acquired ones - I now have six new NSR cars... three of the 86-89 F1 cars - Toshiba, Olivetti and Beatrice plus a GT-40 mk 2 and two Moslers... I have not yet put any of these NSR models on a track and would be appreciative if members can give me any information I should heed prior to running them.. I am led to believe the Moslers are very quick out of the box....? Along with those, I now have my first Revo-Slot model.. the Gulf Dodge Viper - wow! I am so impressed with the engineering and assembly of this model... so much so, that I have ordered a further two models... GT-2 Porsches.... and a third white kit one to come.... I would also appreciate any information or advice with the Revo cars.. I have not had or seen them before - I am quite taken by the chassis - everything is drilled and screwed... alas, I'll now have to get some more tools... the axle diameter is 3.0 mm..... I suspect this is something to do with the very small ball bearings used on both front and rear axles... As well as those, my Slot-It Skyline (Skaiffe/Richards) is on its way... it's coming with the Revo Porsches. Another car arrived in my absence was the Scalextric A9-X of Brock/Brock.... I'm thinking this will be a collector model.. it will share unused condition with one of the Brock A9-X which I did not fiddle with... I have a Flyslot 911 on backorder.. if I'd known that the Revo 911's were coming - I probably wouldn't have ordered this one... I have the Brian Foley one - and that took an enormous amount of work to get it to sit and run properly.. I suspect that the second of these will be no less of a challenge... So, folk - just reporting in... after a 4 month absence... Looking forward to any feedback/advice on the NSR and Revo models... frats, Rosco
  16. Thank you, Alan for making this year's series possible. I don't believe anyone can appreciate the effort demanded for running such an event - the collecting, scrutineering, and dispatch to the next round.... not to mention the responsibility for the thousands of hours of work that competitors have committed to thier entries. Further, to the hosts and drivers (and support staff) who conducted each round - thank you. And finally, to the entrants - I am always impressed with the very high standard of entries which have been created - both in presentation, and performance. It is indeed a most wonderful opportunity to re-live the history of our competition motoring past, but also to replicate those amazing machines which created it. Thank you, every one of those whom my little effort enjoyed the opportunity to compete against.... and their creators. I look forward to again entering next year's series - and yes, let's all hope that next year - we will be free to enjoy a life without this dastardly virus having control of our lives.... Again, thank you to all involved in this year's series. frats, Rosco
  17. I have not had internet for quite some time and have just been able to catch up with the series and results. The last event I saw was round 2... so, was happy to see that my little effort completed the series without falling apart and disgracing itself. However, it is with great glee that indeed my little T-53 has been endowed with the John Smedley constructor's award for this year.... I feel a little ashamed that I have not been able to comment on the series rounds and thank those after each event for the wonderful dedication committed to running each event. Thank you to all entrants who produced some wonderful models that my little effort shared the track to relive the '60's. As with many of the entrants, it was almost an 11th hour decision to complete a build that was mothballed for some three years, and very little progress had been made other than the basic chassis plates. The body was hardly touched and parts had to be found from the large collection of many other projects. Everything else went on hold until I completed the model - and I was very releived when it all seemed to hold together after just a handful of laps around a rushed assembly of some of my Scalextric track... and mailed off to reach the entry deadline... I am indeed chuffed that it completed the series and am gobsmacked on receiving the John Smedley award..... Special mention to the drivers, marshalls and back-up staff who are unsung heroes - it was very pleasing to see some faces and names of those who contributed... thank you. Finally, a very special thank you to Alan - who, under the very troublesome constraints and restrictions of getting the series completed due to Covid and the associated unsurity of how to determine/plan the series - thank you. This year's John Smedly award will be treasured for many years to come and will take pride of place within display of my growing collection. I very much look forward to next year, and hope that we can all be free of this rancid disease which has put just so many of us under a threat that we have not seen before in our lifetimes.... I look forward to a final wrap of each car and what is suggested to improve performance.... I am still very much learning this "black art" in stratchbuilding and tuning.... maybe my effort next year will produce better times, but overall - I am delighted with coming away with such an honour of taking this year's John Smedley constructor's trophy... frats, Rosco
  18. Amazing work, Chris.... end result will be another stunner. I now have two T/S Moslers.. the yellow anniversary one is a beautiful car - not so much in love with the Martini one... but apparently, they go well. Both of mine have A/W drive-lines. frats, Rosco
  19. Thanks again, Chris. You have given me more to strive for when I tune a model..... we have all heard of the "fire triangle"... now we have the "drive triangle".... simples.... frats, Rosco
  20. When I get to them, I'll run a report thread on this Chris..... I'm certain now from what you post - that I can effect some tuning of these pods. From memory, the rear pod suspension arrangement was such that an adjustable screw set both extremes of pod travel. Two screws at the front of the pod afforded greater control of fine tuning. Differing spring tensions were available.. from a very soft to a fairly firm. I believe I set mine with something in the mid-range... my track is really not that bad - but it's plastic track - and the factory undulations ire identical in each straight piece... I really look after my track, it is cleaned and the running rails wiped down with Inox before being all packaged up in the original boxes and stored until next use.... I have always been this way since purchasing my first D straight in 1966..... a discipline which I simply can't bring myself not to continue with... I believe the U shaped piano wire addition and some 380 will bring the componentry of the pod to a much more rigid state.. and very much look forward to learning of what effect this upgrade will bring to each model. Of all the piano wire chassis models I have now constructed - each of them has that rigid U shaped rear bracket - the motor firmly locked to it by screws, and the axle secured in place by the soldered in brass/bronze bushes... it is this that we wish to replicate in commercial plastic etc chassis pods... I have had great success with some earlier Scalextric models which never ran right - a Triumph TR-7 and a Mk1 Escort immediately come to mind. There was so much flex of the rear axle/pinion arrangement in those models that they bound up continually... and flexed out causing gear teeth chomping. I corrected this as best I could with heavy applications of JB-weld with some wire embedded into it - it made a huge difference to the performance and longevity of the drive-train.... With the Slot-It chassis - each of my GT-40's (I think there are 8) - I stripped the chassis and re-learned the plastic in the hot bath/long cool process.. using a flat metal plate and magnets to keep it perfectly flat until the plastic re-learned itself... Each of those models was a lot easier to set up once the chassis was true... none of them came out of the factory with it in a flat plane.... some were close, but none of them could be positioned on a set-up plate with trued wheels and tyres without one wheel lifting when the opposite side/end was pushed down on the plate. Probably didn't do a lot for plastic track use - but it certainly made them better performers when I used to take them to a club wood set up..... Plastic track is for people who don't have room for a wood layout.. I'm convinced of this... I'd love to have room to make one - but like just so many things in my life - each hobby only has enough room/storage for a certain percentage overall.... I yearn for space, but understand I'd simply fill it with more "stuff".... frats, Rosco
  21. Thanks Chris, all questions thus far answered and acknowledged. I'll take a closer look at the suspension system fitted to my Slot-It GT40 fleet.. but, from memory, that triangle is fixed - I'll make it more rigid. I firmly (excuse pun) believe it's the pod that affords suspension - not the rear axle. I can't for the life of me come to believe that Slot-It would create such a fault... but, I'll check when I open the vault again in four or five months' time... next planned return to the hobby. Will PM you and explain pending break..... frats, Rosco
  22. Busy as all heck at present, Warren... in matters outside hobbies. Slot cars have been locked away in the "vault" for six or seven weeks now.. with only the LJ body free to work on when I have time (rare). I had never considered a brace across the back of a plastic chassis... not fully appreciating just how much flex occurs under load from the motor to the wheels. It may explain some of the strange noises I have been listening to for decades.... in particular, the Scalextric GT-40 Mk 2's that I have a couple of... one is better than the other, but I now expect that it is firmer.... they will both get the piano wire bracket addition - and we'll note if it improves/removes this apparent mysterious noise... I will have much to do when I return to the hobby later on in the year. It was a rush to get the Tasman Cup proxy car up and posted.... with that out of the way, I was able to mothball slot car projects for now, hence my absence from the forum of late. I have purchased a second T/S Mosler - bit unfair to only run one in competition - so, I will have two when the second arrives. Also - the Winfield Slot-It Skyline and Peter/Phil Brock's Scalextric A9-X are both on pre-order... Apologies for swamping your thread, Chris.... still keen to learn what weights you used on the M6A... and what paint/colour you created such a lovely looking period model with... frats, Rosco
  23. Thanks Chis - my learning curve has just "tilted" skywards. I have absolutely no experience of this new-to-me support, but fully expect that it will now be incorporated into every model I either purchase or strip down for a refit.... I have many Slot-It models - all with this same apparent ability to flex - I'll compare one against the other as progression is made through the fleet. In all the Slot-It GT-40's I have - I have installed the optional rear suspension system... it works a treat on Scalextric plastic track - being able to balance out undulations laterally across the track... I have yet to strip one of these down, but believe the fitting of this new-fandangled (to me) can be incorporated.... it's the tilting/twisting alignment of the axle in the pod which is the issue.... if the motor goes with the suspension, the incorporation of such bracket will ensure that the assembly stays rigid as one... yet, the axle can "float" up/down in the chassis to smooth out contact with the imperfect track... I'll take a very close look at this, Chris - but, I can attest that the fitting of the suspension springs/assembly to these GT40 models most certainly affords better times on poor plastic track.... which is all that I have. Thanks for your reply - any word on the weights used in your T/S chassis....? frats, Rosco
  24. Lovely work - again, Chris..... I have the same white kit yet to be started on. First I've seen of using an axle brace - if I am not wrong, this is the "L" shaped bracket across the rear of the pod - held down by screws and Nylocs...? Did you fabricate this yourself, of is it commercially marketed? Also, what did you use for your weights?.... they seem dull like lead - from lead sheet? Love the livery - simple, but very clean and "just" the right amount of decals. Paint? We have stumbled onto a new paint supplier here in Oz.... SMS. The chap is a long term modeler and has ventured into developing, producing and marketing his own product. It is all acrylic lacquer - and he goes a long way into explaining what the product is. It comes pre-thinned for air brush use in a 30 ml bottle - but he also supplies thinners, retarders and levelers.... I have not sprayed a slot car with it yet... but results from other models have been extremely pleasing. It flows out beautifully from the brush and dries very quickly. The clear coat is probably the clearest I have yet used, and dries to a hard shell-like coating. I have not applied it over decals as yet.... but I read that it is not as invasive as many of other manufacturers.... a mist coat prior to a wet coat seems to appease most decals.... will report when I've had a play. He further markets a number of very fine pigmented 2K colours and some "colour shifts". Looking forward to getting an optic on your second model. frats, Rosco
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