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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Thanks M P - I could easily be tempted to purchase any second version of this model.... If so, then I will keep one of the A9-X's as a collector's item.. and work the second one up to be a strong performer... the A9-X was indeed a weapon in its day... everything that the L-34 proved not to be... Thanks for the welcome back - so many things to do, so few years left.... frats, Rosco
  2. I have just purchased two of these A9-X's.... hopefully, I'll be able to kit-bash and change the livery for the second year's running... frats, Rosco
  3. Almost forgot about the press jig, Shaynus..... nice to know there are members here who have a better memory than I. I'll have to go look for it... I'm sure I've put it away in a "safe place".... when I find that place - I'm sure I'll find a lot of other hidden "things" as well.... Two cars coming this week, and Patto's decals - so, it will give me drive to open Pandora's box... and more than certainly some "inspiration"... The press idea works famously, but there's a lot of work in making up the two matching jig pieces. Drilling the holes in the blank is an exacting process - get that right, and I believe the assembly will match any commercially available alternative - plus, you can literally make up any design requirement...... and not rely on what is available then be forced to conform to it....... wheels, as I have experienced are even more demanding - give almost limitless option to need... As stated above, instead of finding tyres to match wheels - I can now make wheels to match tyres... the Escort/Cortina tyres I have ordered (MJK 4272) - I believe will be a lot closer match for the LC/LJ XU-1's than those I had ordered. The tricky bit is to make up wheels which will allow the magnificent Munter inserts to fit..... end result should be very pleasing if successful. In my mind, I can see PB's LJ XU-1 materialising.. Patto's decals will do ever so much to bring this model to life.... along with my little applications of body detail. My fear, is that Scalextric will climb on board once this model is finished - which I also believe will attract considerable interest from "downunder"..... and mass produce their own.... limited run or not ... The importance of Brock's LJ XU-1 - is that it was his first "Bathurst" win.... the first of 9.... I will stop at the A9-X. don't really have great interest in what came after that.... "my" period was mid 60's to late '70's... an exciting an developmental era for what evolved from the simple harsh "road" conditions of Mt. Panorama - to the "raceway" it became.... prior to the "Chase".... I believe most of us modelers have a "theme"... for my Australian theme - I model 60's and 70's.... a very impressionistic era in my growing youth and early adulthood... frats, Rosco
  4. Bump... we're back. 4 months up north in Qld escaping the winter and troubling virus down here in Vic.. timing was perfect. Ok.... we probably need to pick up a bit from where we left off. I have now ordered some different tyres - I was not in love with the wide tyres in these builds, and have ordered two sets for the 13" Cortina.... I will make up wheels to suit both the Munter inserts and these tyres... now that I believe I can achieve this My lathe is still in bits - having left the job when we made our dashed escape out of this state back in June.. so, I'll need to fit those tapered roller bearings to that and set it up before we can get to any wheel turning... I have chased up decal sets for both the LC and LJ XU-1's of PB... and they should arrive in the coming week - thanks Patto - really looking forward to getting an optic on these. Patto suggested I have the red deleted from printing - as I have chosen to do.... this will allow me to airbrush the LJ in white then mask up and spray the red.... the decals will finish this model off beautifully.... I hope. As for the LC - I will have to do quite a bit of research into this "kit bash" model... I know what I want - and it will be the HDT version of the LC... at this stage. Further, I have now ordered two of PB's A9-X Torana's.... I will change the livery of the second one to bring it in line with successive years that PB ran these cars. My Allan Moffat 1969 XW GTHO arrived... what where Scalextric thinking?... those wipers!.... have to go.... I have the three set now of '69, '70 and '71 of these great period winners... but, the wipers on all three will have to be made up and the "tree branches" removed... So folk - we're back... and I will have to get a footing on where I was before we left..... lots of work around the house, cleaning up the van and truck yet before I can commit to serious modeling - but, we're back on deck and I am very keen to return to modeling... frats, Rosco
  5. Thanks Mark, I now appreciate that you have considerable modeling skills, and now further suggest that you attempt a piano wire and brass chassis.. there are/have been some amazing chassis build around the world.... you'll find these in the scratchbuilder's section... detail in some of them is simply exquisite.. and they darned well go fast to boot! Of course, you will get better traction and braking with wider tyres ... but it's a job lot. One thing which many people don't appreciate, is that the outer "corner" of the rear tyres must be "radiused"... having an edge on the tyre makes the model prone to tipping when pressed into corners... getting the right radius for the model is as important as getting weight positioned correctly.... too much radius, and it will slide out too easily - not enough, and it will roll over before letting go... I simply don't know what it is with the L-34 Scalextric Torana... the motor is in-line, rather than my preferred side-winder config. But, the little Coopers I built are also in line, and they go very well for the tiny motor it is limited to run with... I am not messing with the L-34.... but, I may very well build a chassis that can be swapped over with the factory one for competition purposes... in an "open" class.... It simply doesn't make scale sense that the L-34 should be a slower car than the LC or LJ... the A9-X, which is backordered and we are all waiting with baited breath for it's release - was an excellent prototype racing car... winning Bathurst.... against the Ford Coupes... there is no reason that the L-34 should not be a fast car in scale.. other than the engineering Scalextric put into it... I believe I can manufacture a chassis which will very much improve perfomance of this model... but, competition wise - it cannot be raced within the guidelines of class competition in our hobby and at club events... You will pick up an awful lot on this tuning as you progress. Probably one of the best methods to improve OOB models that I have purchased of late with a plastic chassis - is to completely strip them down to bare plastic, and to "reset" the plastic memory.. I have done this to many models now, and there is a considerable improvement in performance... even some of my Slot-It GT40's have revealed an out of "true" chassis.... The method to do this, I have posted a while back.... involving a "bath" of boiling water poured gently over the chassis, and then insulating it so that it cools very slowly over a long period of time... this resets the memory of the plastic I mount the chassis on a true metal plate, hold it down with small magnets so that it is absolutely flat on the plate - then slowly pour boiling water over it until it is covered.. plus more so that the greater volume of water in the bath cools out a lot slower... This method produces an almost perfect flat chassis..... which allows it to "flex" under strain, yet returns to it's flat state on release... Truing the tyres and removing all backlash between gear and pinion, plus any gap between the wheels and axle bushes also makes for a much quicker model... we use "shims" for this... with thicknesses down to 0.2 mm...... getting a good mesh with very little backlash and no pre-load is the aim.... arranging the mesh by this method of using shims on the axle/bush area provides much greater control of it..... using the "guide slot" of the crown on the end of the pinon shaft of the motor is a very much outdated method... from early Scalextric days... it causes drag and the mesh is not constant.... you can shim the mesh to the point of virtually having no backlash, and no pre-load.... the gears of both pinion and crown will last for eons... I find using a grey lead pencil on the teeth of the pinion to be an excellent method of lubrication.. it really doesn't need much... but graphite, in this form will provide many hundreds of hours of operation without need of further lubrication... and - it does not attract grit.. which every other form of lubrication does - if it's "wet" ... it will attract and add into solution the grit... I learned this little trick from my r/c helicopter days... the ball joints of the rotor and head connections... Removing moulding lines is another great way to improve performance... but, with Slot It - their quality is so good, you won't need to do much - if indeed anything at all.. the Scalextric stuff really needs a good looking at. We are moving from a "toy" racing car set .... which Scalextric have built a wonderful history on.... to a hobbyist/sport domain... Scalextric can be "tuned" for much improved performance.. but, with clubs - there are limits on just how far you can take a model before it no longer conforms to rule.... best check with a club before getting serious about bringing any "purchased" model up to a performance level... Brakes - we have come a very long way in the past 10 years... our controllers now will "effect" a brake which can be so advanced that braking can be left to limits previously not attempted...without de-slotting or worse. I do not understand the physics of how the controller does this, and I am under the impression that it does not "throw the reverser"... that is, apply power in reverse... well, not directly anyway. We have electronic whizzes in here that perhaps can explain modern braking by electronic control... My initial attempts (before I learned of these modern controllers) was simply to run an extra lead across the controller resistance winding... so that, when the throttle was released completely - it bridged both rails of the track... effectively destroying emf... this worked well to an extent... the larger motors being more responsive. But, compared to the braking ability of electronic controllers - my very much neanderthal method is so far behind that i discarded the entire method and simply purchased two Slot-It SCP-2 controllers.....if you are yet to look into this... they will very quickly expand your current (excuse pun) method if, if you are using a resistance wire controller... the available options and parameters are such, that I have to write down the settings under the box of every model... it really makes such a difference - not limited to just on/off for functions, but the ability to set very fine parameters for each... and - they are convertible (with a different plug pack) to the modern digital system... which I have not engaged into. Ok Mark... hope this brings a little more enlightenment to your return - be warned though - the number of models will begin to increase with a very parabolic rate of increase... Some members here will tell you that they literally have "hundreds" of models... me, I suppose all up I have something around the 40 mark.. with two recent additions in the first GTHO of Allan Moffatt and the Hamilton Porsche 911 which Brock drove... Brock's A9-x is on backorder and I have procured one when they first arrive in the country... Old Holdens... you might like to message "Munter" on the range of these that he offers as a kit.. his products are right up there.. I siimply love the Cooper and the LJ is also another great model... mine is going through a fair bit of scaling... but, for the most - anyone who cleans up any flash and produces a reasonable job in painting and detailing will enjoy a great looking scale model.... Chat later, frats, Rosco
  6. Hi Mark, just a little of my background history in slot cars.... with huge breaks in between. Fascinated in them when I was a kid and couldn't afford one, neither could my parents make a gift of one for me... so, I had to work and save.... piece by piece, part by part... Eventually bought a transformer (Triang P2 - still have it, but don't use it)... and enough track to make a circuit.... two D straights, four 90 deg curves... Until I had these, I put together the track pieces in every conceivable configuration... then, my neighbor bought an oval set with two AC Cobra cars... I then went through a successive number of new cars.. about one every six months.... and amassed a (all Scalextric) Offenhauser rear wheel drive, Mini Cooper and Triumph TR-4A.... None of them were competitive with my neighbor's Cobras.... and I wouldn't concede to purchase one... All my cars became "ill"... needing work to keep them running. I started to learn how to repair them and what made them go ..... and what could be done to make them go faster.. this was when I was all of 13 years old (1968)... My fascination with slot cars took its first huge break when I bought my first motor bike.... but, I kept everything... From motor bike, to motor car... learning to drive, driver's license and "girls" were enough to keep my mind otherwise occupied from slot cars... In 1980, my eldest son showed an interest in them... and out came the track. In the meantime, I had started work and on one visit to Hearns Hobbies in Melbourne, I purchased another two cars.... Ferrari P4 and Lamborghini Muira.... but they only saw the track a couple of times before going into storage themselves. When Alan Jones won the F1 crown - I bought the MRRC Williams... and my interest returned.... we bought some "dud" Scalextric cars - the Rally series Triumph TR-7 and Escort .... I was never happy with either of these cars, but the Williams was very fast... it had steering front wheels and was faster than any of my Scalextric cars... We bought more track and ended up with enough to build a four lane figure 8 circuit.... my friends and family took a keen interest as to when I was going to have a "racing car" day... and we were never short of visitors... My attention was drawn back into model aircraft (I have had nearly every hobby a boy can have)... and I finally broke into radio control... leaving slot cars behind again for another great mothballing... It wasn't until my kids had left home, that I started to think of that AC Cobra.. and getting one of my own - it haunted me all these years. I looked on the internet for sourcing one, and the prices for the original Scalextric model almost frightened me away permanently... it really wasn't such a great model... but, I still wantedo one.. I most certainly wasn't going to pay over $200 for a car in "used" state.. and almost walked away for good... happy to leave my collection intact for use on whim... I just happened to do a search on Cobra slot car... and a new world opened up to me.... I was not aware that the slot car hobby was still in full vogue... and the variety of manufacturers.... I very quickly found a local supplier (Ged) and ordered two Carrera Cobras... then went out to pick them up. To say I was delighted with both these cars is an understatement - they were simply exquisite in detail and performed very well out of the box.. after changing the guide to a shallower one (supplied) for Scalextric track... I began to collect more of these beautiful Carrera models... which have now amassed to around 10.... including Mark Webbers F1 and Daniel Riccardo's RB-7..... Bump.... I joined a local slot car club (Phoenix), but could not make meetings... some practice sessions mid-week, but never an event.. weekends are always out for me with family... none of my hobbies are allowed to take any precedence on weekends... Having joined Phoenix, I was linked to forums.... and this was probably the nucleus of my becoming very deeply involved with scratch building. I had scratch built model locomotives using styrene card (looks like plastic) and brass .... and also wagons and carriages, so I had a little bit of experience with detail and accuracy.. I joined this forum and learned of the Tasman Cup proxy racing.... I was very keen to watch models being made.. and one of the members (Fading Embers) was posting regularly on her progress... I simply had to buy into this... Many members of the forum and that proxy group were ever so helpful and encouraging.. and I finally produced my first model... a T-53 Cooper - the excellent body coming from Munter, the chassis being produced by myself... a very simply piano wire and brass construction.. the front and rear axle frames being supplied by a forum member... It took me nearly three months for the first build - at no time, did I have a track to test it on.. and most of the set up was done on a slotted steel plate... I learned as I went, and learned what made a model go better... learning also, that "tuning" is not limited to the motor - but the model.... just so much to learn and understand. I first got the chance to run the model at Stubbo's holiday house in the south east of Vic... up until then, it had not run. Stubbo put it on the track and asked me if I wanted to "test" it... I told him "no".... and for him to find out how my build came to perform. He was very impressed with the lap speed of my efforts. Asked me a number of times about the motor - which I later checked and was very happy to learn was the lower powered version of the two that the English manufacturer produced.. it, I was told - was a fast car. and I entered it in my first ever "proxy" series..... it came in 4th overall in the series.. best placing was a second.... I was pretty chuffed. So, Mark... you have now learned from where I have come to this build... the Torries will be the third and fourth scratch built models I have produced... the second model is an unfinished Cooper T-53.. it stalled when we went interstate for one of our three month absences up north over winter, and failed to continue on return... it is still on the "books" and will be completed. If not for me finding one of these Torana's in a pic on this forum... I would probably be nearing the completion of the second T-53.... I chased up the owner of said LJ XU-1 and again, found that Munter produced the "kit"... which is again, an excellent kit... I'm not a lover of "generic" production chassis.... after building my first scratch built one, and gaining good results.... I was never going to fit a production chassis to these models.. and have gone a bit further this time with the purchase of some additional items to build the chassis. The lathe and mill, another hobby I have always wanted to get into - came a few years back... I was a high school pupil, not a technical school one.... our subjects were limited to woodwork in a trade perspective.. this new metalwork hobby fascinated me.. and I have been further helped and guided by "Stu" ..... he has been exceptionally patient and forthcoming with guidance... my turning of wheels has thus far been the jewel in the crown of anything I have turned in the lathe, but its potential is way beyond such a relatively simply process... so too, the Mill - when I start to work that to a modest level of its potential... My suggestion, Mark - is to consider scratch building a chassis...... it is not difficult, but demands some basic tools to make life easier... namely a jig of sorts to hold pieces in place whilst they are being soldered... a jeweller's soldering tile is an excellent place to start. You can literally design and produce an almost unlimited variation of chassis for the model bodies you quest... There is a huge following, and number of members in this forum who will aid and guide you through the process.... of course, many will keep their "best" secrets to themselves, not wishing to divulge "that" edge in competition.. but, for the main - you'll get every piece of advice and suggestion you need to produce some very fine work.. and it will more than likely out-perform anything you can purchase off the shelf. and at a fraction of the price... parts excepted. Brass sheet and piano wire plus solder are very cheap... the componentry is what we all must bow to in cost.... but, as you work through each build - you'll more than likely amass a considerable stock of "parts"... You would be well advised to continue with Slot-It componentry.. it all works, and is produced with an extremely high standard of accuracy ..... there are other manufacturers who produce equal if not better parts... but, as an entry level into this hobby/sport - you will not be disappointed with anything that comes from the Slot-It range... I have not. Wheels - hmmmmm..... courses for horses... I have developed a huge respect for wheel manufacturers since producing my own.... but, understand the basics..... Most would consider finding a tyre to fit a wheel.... my application is the reverse... I am producing wheels to match the tyre that I can best fit my needs.... so far, I have more than two sets of perfect wheels for these two Torana's.. but, I am now firmly of the belief that I will not use them.... having found a more scale suitable tyre - and hence, my need now to produce 8 wheels to fit them onto. Currently, these MJK tyres are out of stock - but, when they come back in.. I will be ordering a few sets of them.. then set about designing and making wheels to match both the tyre, and the more than excellent inserts which come with this Munter kit.... they are exacting for the wheels used on the HDT LJ Torana... sadly, the LC XU1 ran steel wheels - and I need to either make or procur inserts to replicate those.... the tyre size will be identical.... So, Mark - don't hold yourself back - don't put a time frame on this build... but more so - please consider attempting a scratch built chassis... very simple and basic... and if you keep within the specs - it will more than likely out-perform that of a production version....... you can build weight into such a scratch built chassis at certain locations that will result in some very stable and fast lap times.... don't be fooled into believing that wide tyres and diameter will produce a fast model... it's in the "tuning"... providing you use good quality tyres and "true" them down - you will get some very fast times out of a model with a narrow track..... just take our F1 models for example... they have narrower track than most of the saloon type cars - but their weight distribution and weighting height affords much of this.... the tyres allow for grip... which is something you really don't want up front, as best I have come to learn. Getting the right amount of weight in the right spot will reduce your lap times... and as such, don't fret about not having anyone to race...... if you can get consistent times on a layout, you can tweak and tune the model to improve it's lap times.... Don't be fooled either, into believing a big motor will produce a fast car.... yes, it will be fast in a straight line... but some of the models I have with the most powerful motors - are not what I would call fast cars.... they become "twitchy"... trying to get any smooth and consistent (this is important) lap times out of a twitchy car on full 12v is demanding for the best of slot car racing enthusiasts.... a lesser powered model which has consistent times will usually win against one which is quick down straights, but is a nightmare to contain either going into or out of curves.... a cigarette paper thickness too far or less on the throttle trigger makes these twitchy cars very difficult to get smooth laps out of.... until you can get smooth ones, you are never going to get consistent ones.... and it's the consistent ones which will educate you into bringing the model up onto the "edge"..... where your fastest laps will begin to emerge.... just like the full size prototypes.... anyone can plant the foot and go down a straight with a huge motor and tyres with great grip...... let's just go back to where this topic came from.. the "giant killers"..... 3.3 litre 6 cylinder cars vs 5.8 litre V8's..... and these little pocket rockets won the larger variants over....... don't sell them short in our world of slot cars - produce a balanced chassis and they should be as competitive as the combatants they were up against in 1972.... As for the L34 Scalextric Torana - sadly, that car is a slug... out of the box (OOB).... I have one, and it slips and slides all over the place... won't go, and won't stop... I'd love to build my own chassis for it, but I bought that model as a collector's item... I need some Marlboro decals to finish the livery.. and will more than likely approach Patto for those. I have MJK tyres to fit to it, and may just turn some aluminium wheels for it then use the supplied wheels as inserts....... currently thought in process on that.... how far do you go before it is no longer a collector's item...? Ok, Mark - this has probably given you more than enough to digest and think about... I would encourage you to consider scratch building a chassis - you will learn ever so much about the dynamics of what makes a model fast.... or slow.... and the satisfaction of creating something with your own hands and developing skills will bring much joy and pride to your ownership... I might further suggest you read the Tasman proxy series thread... it is in there, that you will gain much understanding of the information you seek... guides, motors, gears etc. etc. etc.... Big, fast turning motors and high gear ratios (high reduction) are not what your mind may perceive the to be.. they make a model as twitchy as all get-out... I built "Godzilla" (a Slot It GT40 white kit with a huge motor and heavily reduced gear ratio)... it is a monster to try and drive.... leaps off the track on anything more than a modest crest and peforms better (faster lap times) with voltage set down to around 9v... at 12v.... it is almost uncontrollable..... so - try a modest motor size to start with, and purchase a number of differing pinions and crowns to "tune" your model for controllability..... then start shifting weight around in it to achieve the fastest (smoothest edge) lap times.... A good hand controller will help you greatly.... I have two Slot-it SCP-2 controllers... I find these excellent for adjusting curves and braking.... but, you must get the model right before you can make use of the numerous parameters that a modern electronic hand controller will enhance your skills and control.... 'nuff for now.... welcome aboard to the "dark art" of building - for me, it is the main focus of my return to the hobby..... frats, Rosco I also now have all three of Allan Moffatt's GTHO's.... and they likewise will stay as collector's models. The only thing I will change - is to scratch build some scale wipers for all four models..... the supplied ones are ridiculously over-scaled for durability - they look darned well ugly.... and the model would look better without them entirely...
  7. Hi Shedbuilder - please post many pix of your progress. Mine has stalled, not due to lack of interest - but just a tad of distance between me and the project. I won't be able to do any further work until near the end of the year.... so, don't for one moment believe that my sudden lack of progress reports suggests it has terminated - it most certainly has not. So, in the "race" (excuse pun) to complete these builds - you will have quite a few laps up on me before I return to the track.... I considered removing the bumpers, but the casting from John is so darned good, that all that is needed is to scribe and scrape faux clearance between them and the body - his casting is very, very good...... I have "tweaked" some of it to appease my own known prototype similarity - but for the most, the model is excellent for a bit of a clean-up and paint... I have much work to do on it yet to bring it to my satisfaction - and yet to make a start on the chassis... turning the wheels has taken a lot of time and patience, and I am now considering not using any of those already made... the width of them is not prototypical of what HDT were limited to run with.. I am looking at MJK tyres which were made for a Cortina at present.. I believe they will be a much closer size to prototype.. I can make wheels to fit them and also the magnificent inserts from John's kit... frats, Rosco
  8. Can't help with fixing flat spots other than by re-sanding Gordo. But, with all my boxed models, I cut icy pole sticks up into short sections and glued them to the bottom of the box. They fit between the underside/chassis of the model and the box... surprisingly, it only takes one or two to lift the model up off its tyres just enough so that it is not resting on its tyres. I have two new sets of PG tyres which have been stored under a drawer out of "everything"...never touched. Sadly, they have gone "red" and have split in places... I am a little disappointed in this... they will never be used and I am reluctant to purchase any more for upcoming models. I do not know if I have failed to do something to "mothball" PG tyres, or if this is simply the nature of the urethane beast... I have not suffered such with MJK or Scalextric tyres... frats, Rosco
  9. Ok folk, bit of an update to keep this thread alive. My scratchbuilder's jig and wire bender from Pro-Slot arrived yesterday - it will be a while now before I can make a start on the chassis - I will be "distancing" myself from this build for a bit of a spell and will report back in when I resume. This is where it's at... I started work on the great Munter body. First up - the original front door - I'm not in love with the quarter vent window and will remove it and make up a brass one - fitting it further to the rear, just in front of the curve at the top - this is where I see it on the proto-type. I drilled and slit the three vents in the fender quarter - I believe vents should not be "faux" if there is opportunity to open them... I have done quite a bit of work on door and window gaps.... original pic and revised... there is still work to be done in here to get some of the lines sharper - but I'm getting there. Next up, the rear - I don't like the spoiler that the model was cast from.. it is way too big, has too much rearward rake and does not have the lovely little upward curve - I spent quite some time modifying this and believe I'm very close.... I have also trenched out around the tail-lights, bumper, window and all panels........ The body casting was very thin on the right rear corner - I broke through a few times and had to re-fill. The gaps will be filled almost flush with Aquadhere after I profile the lenses and the edge of the light surrounds will be brush painted in chrome - which I am yet to experiment with..... end result should be close to proto-type..... before/after pix And finally for this post - we come to the plenum vents in front of the window - there was some work in this. I used a #80 drill in a pin vice to drill out top and bottom of each vent then hand made a scalpel blade with a very thin body. I sharpened the cutting edge and ground flat the back of the blade. It took nearly two weeks of evenings, but all these slots are now open. I added some filler under the vents to create the plenum panel. Again, there is work to do to finish this off - but it is only touch up work. There were many break throughs and broken strips.... I believe the end effect will add some reality to the model. I don't like the front grille - it has a Chev bowtie badge in it.. and will mean an awful lot of work to open the holes in it. I have decided to make my own grille from brass strip.. The vents beneath the bumper can simply be ground out. I may re-inforce the rear of the bumper with a sort length of brass wire - I believe this will be necessary when the body casting material is removed from that area..... this model will have frontal collisions with barriers and other obstacles.. it will need a bit of beefing up at the front when I have done my work. Ok - so, that's it for a spell now... frats, Rosco
  10. Ok folk, update.... my package from Michigan, US arrived today 23rd June. It arrived at Australia Post on 9th June.... it is AP which held the package up in my instance. I have my scratchbuilder's jig and also the wire bender, plus three sets of wheel blocks and also three different sized replacement pins. Pretty happy - just glad it got here. frats, Rosco
  11. Thanks Chris - all news to me.... I became a Wiki expert after reading two paragraphs.... as many Wiki experts become. I suspect, the available material stock may for the molding machine may have had a great influence on color... some models, the colour had to be almost correct... who could imagine a boxed "British Racing Green" Mini in anything but dark green.... Today, most models are painted... the substrate really doesn't have any bearing in colour choice... Model looks great, Chris.. so, what is the next one on the list? frats, Rosco
  12. Just did a bit of reseach - motor was originally a 4.5 litre Oldsmobile engine but was not competitive in the field with other cars powered by a Chev 6.0 litre engine. Bruce upgraded to a 5.4 litre Chev engine.. The cast iron Chev motor weighed 200 lbs more than the alloy Olds motor, but produced 100 hp more. The 5.4 Chev block was eventually was upgraded to 6.2 litres. It produced 550 hp. I can only imagine the exhilaration of such a powerful motor in such a small full bodied car. Bruce came in 2nd in the 1966 Can-Am series behind John Surtees You have done Bruce very proud with your model replication of his car. The color scheme was changed to blue in a later series for these cars... hence why your body was blue. frats, Rosco
  13. Really nice work, Chris.... you must be happy with that? Can you tell me what the little box on the left side panel in front of the wheel arch was for?.. I have no idea. There is an access panel on the right hand side at almost the same place, but it looks like it is bolted on. I don't know what engine this car had, but note the two exhausts. The wheels are absolutely spot on - and I love what you have done with the driver. right down to shaded goggles Great work, frats, Rosco
  14. wind blows from the west, Bram... wind full on into filling the sails..... be different if you'd been sending stuff back this side of the ditch (sic). frats, Rosco
  15. Waiting I can put up with, John... it's the uncertainty of "if" it will get here.... and like your UK package, this one is expensive too.... frats, Rosco
  16. I have built two Cooper chassis on a jeweler's tile - they came out really well. Only concern with them was that some of the ceramic broke away on the edges of the holes. They are solder and heat proof.... but brittle. I am waiting for a Precision board and a few extras to arrive from Michigan... may be a month or more yet... the wind must be blowing in the wrong direction - I think the slow boat is coming the long way around... I did go for the 1/32 metric board, as Chris W suggests... I will hold off on making a start on my two Torana chassis builds until it arrives. Wheels done, doing body work now... frats, Rosco
  17. Looks great Vinno - nice work with Larry - I'm sure he won't mind you catching him with his crash test dummy glasses on.... Wheels are out of my league... they look amazing. How did you do the decals.. ummmmm how did you make them/purchase them/whatever... Looks like a great day for a race... hope it doesn't rain... (sic). frats, Rosco
  18. I placed an order for a scratchbuiilders jig from Michigan... it was picked up pretty pronto by USPost..... I have been tracking it... went well, until it got to the international dispatch area... and it's been stuck "in transit" since arriving there on 20 May.... may be here by Christmas.... this year.... frats, Rosco
  19. Hi folk, another day, more done... I marked up, drilled and tapped two M4 threads into the base of the lower jig... so that screws could be wound in to press out the upper half with the brass frame "squashed" to shape.... I had a lot of trouble doing this last night with frame #1... this upgrade has made work a lot easier...... Ok, we have shortened the "revision 1" frame by 3.5 mm..... here it is after being marked out and drilled accurately using the Mill. You can see the motor shaft and bush plus the two axle bushes look a lot better than the first attempt. I spent a bit of time in the Suttons drill catalogue and found two drill bits which "almost" perfectly suit the motor bush and another one for the axle bushes.... if anyone is following this.. the motor bush drill bit is 6.2 mm and is a "stock" item for a rivet gun..... the axle bush one is not, but Suttons do make a bright steel one in 4.8 mm and a black bit in 4.9... I took two of the 4.8 and the bushes fit it with just enough clearance so that they can be fitted up with the axle in them and soldered into position... I wouldn't want them to be any closer a fit... they would then be a press fit and adjustment would be zilch. Here are the holes drilled without filing with the motor and axle bushes in position... Ok, we have pressed out frame to shape, twice - as before... and removed it from the jig... now we test to see how the reduction in length results.. and I am pretty happy with this. In the pic below, you can see there is very little clearance left from the crown to one of the motor mount screws... this red Slot It crown is the largest in a set of 5.. I'll probably play around with all five to determine which of them best suits the Flat 6 motor.. I have two different pinions to play with as well..... it will be fun to determine how the model best runs on differing ratios. I am now firmly of the belief that the length of this frame will now be my "go to" for future Flat 6 powered models.... I will detail specs a bit later in this post if anyone would like to squirrel them away for future reference..... never say never.. you never know... And here we have the green crown fitted.. the smallest of them. Note that the end of the motor shaft sits exactly in the same position in each of the differing crown hubs.... it is "just" inside the slot by the thickness of the shaft... As Chris W has suggested, I won't be using this slot for my axle position.. but to shim each side of the crown between the axle bushes on each side. In this pic, you can see the two revised frames... and the original.... the revised have been shortened 3.5 mm. And just to polish of tonight's edition... I gave one of the revised a bit of a scrub up... no point in going too far with it yet... it has to be soldered to the top of the chassis rails... whenever I get this scratchbuilder's jig and can finally sit down to work out the chassis layout.. Ok..... scribble this down if you want the dimensions I have now "inked" in.... Material - K&H 1.0 mm x 12.0 mm brass strip - #9844... 3 pcs. Length of frame plate...... 48.0 mm - centred at 24.0 mm Motor bush hole - centre, lateral and vertical - size - 6.2 mm (Suttons drill bit). Motor mount holes - 12.50 mm apart... 6.25 mm from centre line - M2 clearance holes.... 2 mm drill bit Flat 6 mount face plate - 20.5 mm - folds @ 10. 25 mm each side of centre line. Axle bush holes - 20.25 mm from centre line..... 4.8 mm holes - Suttons drill bit - bush clearance fit Happy to answer any further questions (relating to this post, for those with wit)... frats, Rosco
  20. Thanks Chris... I drool over you chassis work each time I see a pic of one... the detail, and engineering astound me.... Yes, this is the plan - I did this with the little Cooper and it works perfectly... there isn't any slot in the RD gears that were made for me... and using shims both side of the crown was necessary to get the mesh... they have not worn one bit, as you suggest..... the crown and pinion are very small in that model, and it does not roll freely with them.... I don't know why, the mesh is good... maybe, it's to do with the size of the crown - I don't know. Everything else in that little car is free running - including the independent free spinning wheels on the front axle... which is also free to spin inside a brass tube.... Number two Cooper using the same gear set is exactly the same.. the motor is free spinning by hand - but in mesh, although there is no binding - it simply doesn't "roll" freely on the track.... it's a fairly fast car... but it simply doesn't roll - might be one of the reasons it is fast... braking wise... I intend to shim both sides of the crown on these models as well..... it's a much better arrangement than relying on the slot in the hub to centre the mesh... Slot-It crowns are simply superb, as is all their other gear.... but taking control of mesh and axle movement is far better by the shim method. I have accumulated a small container of MB shims... and the little shim feeler gauge that comes with the sheet.... I can turn out the larger spacers and add shims as needed for correct clearance and alignment. I'm not too sure how to go with the front bracket yet... I'll try to get the guide as far forward as the model will allow... it has been suggested to me to do this for a circuit model... and to fit the guide post closer to the axle for a rally model.... I'm a bit a sea with the physics of this... Further, I'm not too sure how wide to make the front bracket.... the ones which I had made up for me to build the little Cooper were a different width to the rear frame.. I had some issues with fitting piano wire to both brackets and keeping them parallel to the centre-line of the mode... My current intention is to make both brackets the same width.. so that they can be soldered to the wire parallel... I intend to have two body posts for this model.. one screwed to the front bracket and one at the rear on a soldered plate behind the crown. I believe this will afford the greatest purchase on the chassis by the body, but it will be free floating..... I don't believe I need any side rails on the body.. perhaps a tab each side to relieve stress on the posts during a roll-over.. but this would be the only time the body would be likely to make contact with these two small arresting tabs.... Out to drill and punch out another frame shortly (when the frost melts... it's 1 deg C in the garage at present... I'm in no rush to go out yet.... Bram - thanks.... I do like to do my best. but there are quite a few "whoopsies" in the first bracket.. you can see "stray" drill marks in a few places.. and also grinding marks from the little Dremel.... I should do better with the result in being so fortunate to have these great machines... but, this project is not only adding to my slot building education... it is also educating me on how to use both machines... I don't know about anyone wanting to line up for these brackets... a much easier and simpler method as you suggest would avoid the 6 or so hours it takes me to mark up and punch one of these out.... I'm running out of years, my family would like to see some of me in the time I have remaining... I've got 20 wheels or so that are "surplus"... all of them could be used and most would be acceptable..... but, they are not going onto my models.... and will live in the "surplus" box until they find residency or purpose some place else... Of those, only 4 have "wobble" issues.. the rest of the "wronguns" are simply out of the very close spec I attempted.... mistakes in setting up the machines mostly the cause... but some were badly laid out in marking up.... I only need 8 good ones... I have 5 more yet to turn... Ok, thanks heaps for your info, Chris (again)... my scratchbuilder jig has not turned up yet... I've been tracking it and it seems to have found a blockage point someplace over the Pacific.... I believe US Post has now delivered its responsibility.... probably stuck in the "inbox" of AusPost at present.... goodness only knows how long it will gather dust there.... Back later with number two bracket... Oh, forgot to mention... there has to be a revision made to the jig... I will drill and tap two holes under the base part... so that two screws can be used to push the upper part out of the base... it's an awful tight fit with the brass formed to shape under the 10 tonne press... it must "squeeze" everything into shape..... it took quite a bit of "encouraging" to separate the two after pressing them both times..... a simple cap screw each side will apply positive pressure to drive up the insertion block and bracket... I'm pretty happy with how the first bracket formed.... they will probably get a little less exacting when a number of them have been pressed and they make their own clearance in both parts of the jig... frats, Rosco
  21. Ok folk, bit more done... number 1 motor/gearbox/axle frame has now been completed.... pretty much as I expected, but this one won't be used for one of the builds... it was always going to be a prototype test piece... I could use it, it will work fine - but I have now revised my measurements knowing exactly where the axle holes will end up once the frame is bent to shape. My calculations were a fair bit out... my spacing from motor face to centre line of axle bush is 3.5 mm out.... I added the 1.0 mm thickness of the frame and should have subtracted it... and I have now removed a further 1.5 mm of "fat" which I added in ...... "just in case"... I now know the measurement and will mark out number 2 frame shortly... So, from the previous post... we made up our insertion block of the jig... and, during the thought processes - decided I'd also incorporate a rebate for the motor face as well as both sides.... this would ensure that the face stayed absolutely flat when pressed .... which it did. So - here we go.... First up, the 12 mm x 1.0 mm brass strip has been marked out, drilled and cut to length..... it is sitting near the insertion block. You can see the 1.0 mm rebate I milled out for the brass strip to fit into when pressed into the "home" block..... Next, the frame plate has now been screwed down into the insertion block and is now ready to be placed in position over the block for pressing... We are now pressing the insertion block into the home block, the brass has been deflected upwards whilst being held captive in the rebates as the plug travels down into the base.... - we are about half way down here... everything is going according to plan.... We have now pressed it down for the first pressing..... it was removed after this and the cap screws removed... then pressed again so that the brass face plate for the motor would be absolutely flat.. and the corners "squared" up ..... I didn't take a pic of the second pressing... And here is our motor/gearbox/axle frame... all done - ready to be fitted out with axle bushes and motor... I fitted the motor, axle bushes, axle and crown wheel... plus some faulty turned wheels.... everything is square and parallel here.. I'm pretty happy with the end result.. but, the axle is 3.5 mm too far from the motor.... revision 1 will be marked out, drilled and pressed tomorrow... You can see in this final pic, looking from the rear - everything is in alignment.. it is square on to the motor face and the width of the frame is exactly that of the width of the motor.... When we come to build the chassis, the piano wire will be soldered under the side legs of this frame.... We also need to mill out another one of these for the front axle and guide frame..... I'm not certain which way I'm going with this yet... just to get this rear one worked out and done took a fair bit of headwork... Ok, back with revision 1 frame tomorrow night.... I should be able to punch these out fairly quickly now. It will be a "universal" frame for many sedan type models I intend to build...... there is an EH Holden in the short term wings.... frats, Rosco
  22. Ok folk, getting closer to actually doing something about modeling these Torana's..... Today, I started work on the motor mount/gearbox/axle frame..... i decided some time ago to build my own from 1.0 mm brass strip... how I was going to do it was an ongoing thought process, but came to the conclusion that I could make up a "jig" to punch out my own.... it needed to be "generic" - so that I could use it in other models. Munter put me onto some thoughts to consider and I set these in to motion yesterday.... purchasing some blocks of high tensile aluminium from which to make both the base and the insertion block, which together should allow me to press a 12 mm wide strip of 1.0 mm brass down using a 10 tonne bearing press (purchased to replace those pesky bearings in the lathe)... I have decided to follow Munter's suggestion to make the frame wide... and also to match the width of the intended motor.. both of them being Slot-It "flat 6's"... which, the motor body width is 20.5 mm.... so, my frame outside diameter (O.D.) will be 20.5 mm... the lines were scribed in a this through the ink... the depth I did not yet know, but I understood it may not have been possible to get the full depth of the gearbox... at least 10 mm should be enough to set both legs exactly at right angles to the motor mount holes.... and parallel to each other. I have done zip all work with the Mill, other than a fair bit of dilling and one little practice session of how the collet and cutting bit worked... along with how the various wheels and dials on the machine allowed such fine control over machining a surface... etc.... So, today - we set off into the machine shop (very jumbled and confined space in a 2 car garage)... I faced one block and found that it does not come supplied in a true measurement.. it was miles out from one end to the other - at first believing that my Mill was well out of adjustment... but, with the dial gauge - it soon revealed the material... so, we put that to rest and I surfaced the block - and then painted on some "engineer's blue ink" and scribed out my work.... Before I got very far into the work, the machine started to protest.. it was making strange sounds and I shuddered at the thought of spending all weekend putting this one right as well... it took me nearly a month to get the lathe to where i wanted it.... I was really not too happy to find that this may be the case with the Mill as well..... Out with the manual - written in "Chinglish".... and interpreted enough to work out how to pull it apart... took off the cover - and presto!... the timing belt was almost loose.... four cap head screws later - and the noise is gone... decided to have a bit of a look around whilst I was in there.. lubed up some of the places that need a bit of undoing to get to and put it all back together..... much better... Set the block down and firmly secured it to a mounted vice on the lathe bed.. checked it for true and fitted a 2 flute 10 mm cutter to the collet... Set up the height and forward travel and took my "witness" cut... it ran beautifully... so much so, that I didn't want to stop... Pic below shows the first of these cuts... taking them at a depth of 0.5 mm per pass.... I took the first cut right on the right hand line of the 20.5 mm..... in hindsight, I should have come back inside a bit - so that I could run a finishing "face" cut when the full depth was made.. but I didn't... neither did I for the left side cut either... note to self... Rem this... Left cuts.... We're starting to get down towards the body of the vice now... and I realise that I will get my 10 mm depth... perhaps a smidge more... Pretty happy with this first attempt so far.... I am gaining a lot of respect for this machine - it is doing everything that I could wish of it... the cuts are precise and exact... the finish is quite impressive considering I'm using a 2 flute cutter... You can see in the pix... the 10 mm cutter leaves a 0.5 mm centre section.. our width being 20.5 mm..... the cutter being 10.0 mm.... let's see what happens to the 0.5 mm piece in the middle... if the machine is accurate - it should leave it there.... but, the chips of metal blasting out from the cutter are certainly hitting it hard.... So, here we are... we managed to get down to 11.0 mm depth on both sides..... this being exactly 10.0 mm from the surface when the 1.0 mm brass strip is fitted... I'm now pretty happy with this..... And.. that centre "wall".. it remained intact.. all 0.5 mm of it... you can see that my final cut was on the right side trench.. the chips deflecting the wall over to the left... It didn't take much to run the cutter down the centre and fling off that tiny piece.. here is the finished base of the jig... for a first attempt, I'm really happy with how it went.... There is so much aluminium laying around the mill and on the floor - I'm considering vacuuming it all up and taking it to a scrap metal cash point.. there is a time when I'd have stopped a train to pick this much up.... And finally, we bring the jig inside and do a test fit of the flat six motor.. it is a "snug" fit... again, pretty chuffed with this ..... Next, we need to mark up, cut and mill the insertion block... I will machine it to size first, then drill the motor mount, axle bush and motor bearing holes... the brass strip can then be firmly screwed into place... and the insertion pressed into this bottom part of the jig to align it square and parallel... this is the plan - whether it works.... we'll see a bit later in this thread... frats, Rosco
  23. It's a "marked" car now, no longer a "sleeper", Bram.... very nice. frats, Rosco
  24. Looks mean, Bram..... flat and low - going to do some hot laps with this one.... frats, Rosco
  25. Grant, they would knock these out in their dozens in just minutes using CNC robotics.. and the finish, as we already know - is simply outstanding. i am still in awe at Slot-It wheels...everything about them is just so "perfect".... the only skillset required by human intervention is the programming... it's the robot which actually materialises (excuse pun) the end result...... Yes, it's a long drawn procedure to turn one yourself... and failure is at the cusp of every step..... one false move in direction with a wheel or knob..... doomed instantly as a cigarette paper - paper-weight...... I don't believe there is a mistake in turning these wheels that I haven't made..... most of them occur when my "eyechronometer" (as Munter puts it) assumes that there is plenty of cutting to go before we get close to size... and this, for some strange paradox - is always when turning down the inside rim... I don't know how many times I've put the "mic" onto that rim and found that I'm already undersize...even though the "eye-mic" tells me I have oodles to take off...... I now measure after every 10 lines from the step height.... and then every single one. Incidentally, for those interested..... with my lathe, each little line on the slide wheel equals 0.049 mm cut - this results from the tool cutting "both" sides of the work... which is double that shown by the register on the wheels..... 10 lines = 0.49 mm.... one full revolution of the slide wheel (40 lines from "0" around to "0") results in 1.96 mm reduction in diameter of the work... When working the compound slide for boring or against the "face" of the chuck.... this is halved.. because it is only making one cut on the face...... Thanks for your comments... hope this is of some use to anyone considering using a lathe for this work... frats, Rosco
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