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rosco01

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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Well done, Andrew.... Yes, there's plenty of "fat" in the body which can come out.... especially the interior... it's bulky. An alternative option would be to find a generic thin clear interior to suit... and add the Scalextric roll cage. Have you tried running the model without any interior?... this would give you a bit of a guide as to improving times..... it's a big, heavy and "fat" interior that is fitted to this model... For anything that you do take out of the interior - you can add as ballast down low and out as far as "float" will allow it to be added.... Which MJK tyres did you get?..... I haven't looked yet, because I expected that MJK would not have released them yet... unless it's a duplication from some other model... frats, Rosco
  2. For what it's worth - my suspicion is that the retail available adhesives from LHS's more than likely contain MEK in them... might pay to read the label, these days - I believe they must state what is in the product in a PDS if requested.... frats, Rosco
  3. As I recall, if my memory serves me correctly - the first year I entered the Tasman Cup proxy - Stubbo sent the case of entrants from Melbourne to Hobart....... after 6 days, they had not turned up, he made enquiries and a day later they located them.... in Sydney..... they had gone from Melbourne, to Adelaide, to Perth and then to Sydney.... Apparently, if a "receiving" depot cannot handle the volume - it is sent to the next one which can...... go figure... They did arrive in Hobart - and the series was run without further "detours".... frats, Rosco
  4. Thanks Graeme, as stated, I'm yet to put mine on a track.... but, I believe I've got it set up as best it can be without altering anything... The rear tyres would be the first place I'd go to improve performance - once all axles and wheels were set in the same plane.. i'd be tempted to chuck away the "quick change" guide as well - and fit a Slot-It one... they'd be the two places I'd attack first after setting the car up on a plate.... And the wheels - ditch them and fit aluminium and turn down/extract the great centres from the model and fit.... I simply don't like plastic wheels - I am yet to see many which are actually "centred" on the axle.... sure, we can true them up - but the alignment of the centre of the wheel on the axle is an extreme rarity...... as you will have noted with this model - true the wheels and tyres - then watch, as you dial in some power... the centres of the wheels (bearing caps) run out of true - I have a very keen dislike fo this..... as do many fellow modelers.... it "cheapens" the work we do to set things right.... I am chuffed with Slot-It wheels... both the ali and also their plastic - I ought to be getting some kickback from Slot-It with my consistent remarks and comments about the quality of their componentry - I'm not... but I should.... and it is worthy of my holding in high esteem - their products are simply great.... As it has been pointed out elsewhere - as it is, it could be a lot of fun with the Scalextric tyres - if you are into drifting... ensuring that a small radius is on the outer edge would give some degree of control of how much it would lose traction in drifts... Weight - yes, yet to play around with that... I have chopped an awful lot of weight out of mine - mainly the interior... there's heaps of bulky stuff in there which amounts to a considerable reduction.... and yes, adding little bits of lead at a time to various places low down inside the chassis would most certainly improve contact with the track..... as you can appreciate - my layouts are all Scalextric "sport".... not known for any grip as such.... and not true - as would be your routed wooden track.... I believe low c of g weight would improve this model considerably... but then we look at a larger motor... and better tyres for grip.... and before we know it - we've re-invented the wheel and end up with another Slot-It model... maybe, I'll get there... but for now, I intend to run this model pretty much as I have corrected it.. Of course - and I know you have done this - running cyano into the axle bushes then a few drops of oil until the cyano goes off... creates the closest thing you'll get to bronze bushes in plastic.... If I were to change the rear end - again, it would be Slot-it... bronze bushes and the hardened steel axle etc. etc. etc... but we end up with a Slot-it running chassis with a Scalextric body on it.... I'll persevere with this for some time.. maybe, just maybe - I'll even like it.... as opposed to the L-34 - that was a very disappointing model - and it rarely comes down from the shelf to do any laps at all...... it's just not "fun" to drive... it only ever gets a run for posterity's sake... because I have it... not because I want to run it... thanks for the kind words... unlike the L-34.. a lot of this model out of the factory was quite good.... perhaps they "were" listening.... a sidewinder would have been great - and I'm almost certain one could be fitted in there - forward of the rear axle.... I don't believe "Scalextric" have ever been at the cutting edge of performance - perhaps in the late 50's in design and early '60's (when I entered the hobby)... but they were very quickly overtaken once the public came on board and became involved.... Today, they are an "also ran"... but, for as long as they can provide me (us) with models from down under - I'll continue to support them and purchase their products... frats, Rosco
  5. Thanks G34 - you info is well received and observed... I'll be very careful. frats, Rosco
  6. I didn't have any issue with the order... it has been dispatched. Although too late now - I might suggest not making this availability "known" to others outside our hobby..... it would be nice to keep this channel of opportunity open. Shaynus - some of those scratch built loco's took me nearly three months.... not so much constructing the basic dimensions (which were all scanned from line drawings and scaled down to size at 1/87th).... but the detail... some if it is quite intricate - but very rewarding for the end result. The brass/white metal kits (not cheap, and no longer available) took me a little bit less time - but learning to solder white metal to itself, and to brass..... painstakingly slow. Many don't do this, and simply use superglue - it is a flawed option - the glue breaks down in time with the composition of the metal... and parts of loco's simply either fall off - or apart. See if I can find a pic or two of a couple of brass/white metal kits.... not that this is a model railway forum... The carriages in the pic below are styrene kit... very detailed - two weeks each approximately. The B class loco is a kit bash - two A7 loco's cut into bits and re-assembled to create this "one off" double ended ML-2 loco that only came to Victoria.... The T class loco below is the last loco I was building before we moved home to out here in Mooroolbark - that move put a page break in my model railway hobby, which hasn't yet been picked up from.... soon, I am getting the urge... The loco is nearly finished - missing side plates on the bogies, couplers, hose couplings and final weathering.... another was on the building board, which I've just found whilst looking for my Microsol... and I'll bring that out before much longer and continue.... might take a pic of it, it's only reached the basic outline assembly stage in styrene card... happy to post up progress here in this thread if anyone is interested... There are boxes and boxes of wagons and carriages to be assembled.. and no less than four brass/white metal locomotive kits... two X class, one N and what will be a six month mission - the R Class steam loco - of which I am qualified as firemen for...... although, at nearly age 66 - I'm coming to an end on it... so physically demanding - takes me three days to recover from one 14 hours shift up there... My railway modeling "policy" is that I do not model anything I have not either driven, or fired on.... a reflection, if you like.... or "badge"... a 40 year career as driver and fireman plus 50 years as volunteer fireman (current) on our beloved little Puffing Billy steam railway here in the Dandenongs.... as one great mentor once told me, you can take the man out of the Railways - but you can't take the Railway out of the man..... frats, Rosco
  7. Just to give you a peek at what you can do with styrene plastic card.... three of the scratch built diesel loco's I have done. The bodies are all styrene card and put together with MEK.... the stuff is perfect for any type of joint, and works a treat with laminating... Of course - handrails, door hinges, vents and louvres are made of other materials - mainly brass. The louvres were all singularly pressed in a jig I made .... with a guillotine action for each stamping of each separate louvre in the door, then moving down one space and stamping the next louvre... These doors were made using a brass sheet as the medium - and when completed - superglued (MEK will not look at brass - nor should it) over the styrene body.... as all doors are... The doors without louvres are styrene - and laminated to a basic block shape for the main body... Cellulose sheet was cut to shape for the windows... Fuel tank and battery box detail was made using styrene sheet... and glued in place on the white metal chassis.... learning to solder white metal took some considerable effort - and until I found "bismuth".. the lowest melting point solder of all - I had many failures... the white metal turning to "blobs" if over-heated... or refusing to "stick' if not enough heat was put into the joint.... very fine line..... Pix.. Happy to answer any further questions... frats, Rosco
  8. Hi folk, for the benefit of all....... In my model railway hobby, I have assembled many kits and scratch-built many locomotives and wagons.... My preferred medium for this is brass, but for wagons and loco bodies - I use styrene card.... available from you LHS. As many of us did - we grew up using "kid's" glue - which usually ended up on our fingers - and we etched beaut fingerprints into the plastic parts.... Most of these where I was a kid (60's) came in very small aluminium tubes... requiring a pin to punch a small hole in the extended nozzle..... then it "squirted" out everywhere... After use, we stuffed a pin back in.. but before long - the solvents within evaporated and the tube went "solid".... so, it was usual practice of one small tube per kit..... sometimes, if you were lucky - the kit supplied just "not" enough to finish the model - demanding you spend more money and end up with an almost full solid tube afterwards... In my 20's - in model railway... I found "new" products which were liquid.. and came in a little square bottle with a brush fitted under the lid - this was a vast improvement to the tube variant.... but left a lot to be desired - it left a residue... some form of lubricant which slowed the rate of evaporation of the solvent..... but, life was grand - and my models rarely ever had "fingerprints" on them.... In my 40's... I again returned to the hobby - and was directed to a much better alternative - small 100 ml bottles of pure MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) were available at one of the Melbourne model railway retailers..... for around $2 ... $1 if you brought back the bottle..... I had no idea where he sourced it - I could not get a contact.... but obviously, he was ordering this magic stuff in by a large quantity... and decanting it into small bottles for sale.... Now - this stuff is amazing for "welding" polystyrene (styrene card) together.... a very fine artists brush is used to pick up a very small quantity from the bottle - and the cap immediately screwed back on.... this stuff has a boiling point of -4 deg.... I believe you can appreciate that leaving the cap off the bottle soon accounts for your 100 ml.... When styrene parts are held together - first removing the casting wax and a good scrub with soap and water - or dishwashing liquid - lightly sanded to provide a very good joint - the brush is applied to the joint... you can literally "see" the MEK wick into the joint.... and evaporate. Within 30 seconds - your joint is done... almost like welding it... The best thing, is that it leaves "nothing" on the joint or surrounding plastic..... and is perfect for almost immediately cleaning up the model for an etch primer.... metho based - or anything with an aggressive solvent like an acrylic or automotive paint will melt the styrene plastic...... so, we go with a metho or inert primer... and afterwards - hit it with our preferred solvent based primer... I ran out of MEK many years back.... and the hobby store which used to supply me with it went belly up... or the old chap passed on - or away.... Of course, no local hobby shop will sell you these magic little bottles - for they make much greater profits selling their "authorised" glues and fluids... which work - but nothing like pure MEK. So - here we are... I go to my LHS to purchase some Microsol for decals on my current A9-X project.... and ask about MEK - "nope, you won't get that - need a license".... nor did I get my Microsol.... "we haven't stocked that for years".... Sitting at this laptop tonight - after another epic post..... I set about looking for MEK... and got a direct hit.... Sydney Solvents.... Price - and I was a bit shocked to learn that just one litre is $22... yet 5 litres of it is only $36..... so, I have purchased the 5 litre container.... Shipping to outer eastern Melbourne - $15....... I can tell you, 5 litres of this stuff will last me all my modeling days.... If you have never used this stuff on styrene plastic - I can tell you by experience, you'll never look back... It does not "stick" many other plastics - but, whenever I come up against a new plastic and I want to glue it to something - or itself - MEK was always my first "go to".... and if that failed - it would do so in under 10 seconds.... and no second attempt was ever tried.... You'll find a lot of plastics in our hobbies are styrene based.... and this stuff is simply the duck's guts of fusing them together.... Probably the most common - and easiest to pick - is plumbers pipe etc... the "jointing compound or fluid" either blue or green in those plastic jars (not styrene plastic) have MEK in them... it's the solvent (have a read on the PDL)........ you certainly don't want to be playing around with that very heavy duty fluid - it's got other "stuff" in it to seal up gaps.... we don't want any of that..... The styrene card blocks and front axle retainers that I laminated - would have been a perfect subject for MEK..... instead, I used my current ''''go to" Tarzans Grip shockproof superglue... for both the styrene and chassis plastic.. which worked fine - but for just styrene plastic - MEK is a far better and more appropriate choice.... probably still would have had to go with superglue to fit the blocks to the chassis plastic - but, I can't say whether MEK would have done this - because I don't yet have any..... I'm not suggesting that other should rush out and order 5 litres of the stuff.... but, for members who are affiliated in clubs - or have contact with small numbers of others - sharing the expense of such a volume would result in it being more affordable than what the LHS will supply you..... and, it beats everything else hands down when it comes to this type of plastic.... So - there you go.... just thought I'd share this - I'm pretty happy tonight - having procured this magic lotion after not having it for so many years.... frats, Rosco
  9. Ok folk, bit more done..... car is now track ready.... as follows - Rear tyres glued with water based contact adhesive - then trued up. Radius made on outer tyre edges... Then I had some serious thinking to do - the front axle/wheels/tyres.... whether to true them up or not. In this model, the axle does not run in nylon bushes - but is pushed through a hole each side of the chassis - a bit of a disappointment. I had to decide on whether to remove a wheel - which I hate doing with platic wheels - or to cut into the chassis and remove the axle assembly intact... I chose to cut the chassis - and came up with a way which may prove useful to others who also do not want to pull wheels from axles.. I used a Dremel and cut a "keyhole" into the top of each side of the chassis. The axle was then able to be "sprung" out... intact. Not interfering with the circle chassis bush of the hole except for a small segment above the axle..... just enough to flex the chassis apart to free it.... With the axle out - I sanded off the black paint from the steel axle..... and loaded the assembly into my wheel truer... In this pic, you can see the small amount of cut-away in the chassis.... From the side... And here we have the front axle assembly in the machine - truing down the wheels and then tyres... again, gluing them to the wheels using water based contact adhesive. The front axle has been re-fitted and the chassis set up on the plate.... I have set the height of the front axle here.... and am about to make up some styrene card retainers for the inside of the chassis axle hole... On the plate - from the front.. In this pic, you can see that I have fabricated some axle retainers... in the same style as that cut into the chassis - except, they are mounted inverted. I used two laminations of 0.030" styrene card on each side... the axle "runs" in the hole .. which also lines up with that in the chassis - so, in effect - we have twice the thickness of plastic for the axle to use as a hard fitted bush.. With the axles, wheels and tyres all now set up on the plate - I now turn my attention to the terrible guide arrangement.. i simply don't like these "quick change" guides that Scalextric have taken a liking to use..... they flop all over the place... but, the saving grace is that the guide hole in the chassis is square to the set up plate.... so, we don't have to go and re-invent the post holder... pic.... And here is the top of the guide - you can see the molding pips in it - they result in a lot of the "wobble" these guides make .... but not all of it... In this pic, you can see that I've been in with some wet/dry and a rubbing block... removed the pips and left a nice flat turntable for the guide to pivot on... Next up - you can see the terrible amount of "post" that protrudes up through the post hole.... fitting the retaining screw leaves way too much clearance and the guide flops all over the place - up and down, tilting forward and back - and side to side...... I filed the top of the post so that the flat head of the retaining screw was an almost clearance free fit.... the guide now has barely any wobble or float in it.... I simply don't like this arrangement - but for club purposes - left it in there instead of replacing it with a Slot-It guide.... I detest the contact strips, which are sandwiched between the top of the braid and the turntable of the chassis.... Scalextric have completely lost the "KISS" principle here - but, I must say - it makes for quick changes of braid - not that any track owner should maintain their track so that people have to change braids often.... grrrrr And the Quick Change braid assembly..... it slides over the rear of the guide blade and pushes back once in position to retain it.... more room for things to "move" that should be firm and secure.... As stated, I don't like this - if anything can go wrong - it will.... and will usually do so at a critical opportunity. We can clearly see here the "sandwich" of the contact plate making contact with the top of the braid.... I much prefer the simple Slot-It alternative where an eyelet is pressed into the front of the guide.... and we have direct contact between the motor power lead and the braid.... The guide is now fitted to the chassis - and you can see that all five contact points (four tyres and braid) are all in the same plane on the set-up plate.. Ok, here's a little gem that I stole from my r/c helicopter hobby.... secret weapon for "lubricating" plastic on plastic....... 2B greylead pencil..... graphite, in short - but not in powder form... just a "wiping" of it on the mating surfaces. it neither attracts fluff/grit/crud nor goes hard... or ever seems to wear off..... it's lighter than can be measured and simply works a treat.... just "color in" the mating surfaces for a treat and forget option to any other form of lube... Ok - as far as I am prepared to go for now - the model is track ready.... I have run the motor with the model inverted for a few hours - and it now runs very sweetly indeed.. the first two hours were just at 3v... then a bit of up and down the register to 6V for the next hour whilst beavering away on another project. When I first ran the model on the bench, it took nearly 1.5V for the motor to turn the rear wheels.... after this bench running - it now begins to turn the rear wheels at just 0.5v and it will maintain that constant turning at this low voltage without any hesitation or fluctuation..... as stated, the next bit is to put some track together and give it a bedding in on its own four feet... And finally, we come to another secret weapon I employ - we go to an awful lot of effort to true up wheels and tyres.. then screw the model down onto the floor of a jewel case - not me! I make up some spacers to fit under the chassis - so that when the model is screwed down - the tyres are up and away from the floor of the case.... so too, the braid... I have yet to start applying Patto's decals - when I get my mitts on some Microsol and Microset (coming from WA, and the Isle of Wight at present).... So, for now - probably put this thread on hold until I have some more pix of the completed model - or, I get off my butt and put some track together... frats, Rosco
  10. Ok, I have something to add to this thread..... I went to three LHS's yesterday to get some Microsol and Microset.... none of them stock it any longer... So, went on line and found a crowd in WA who do... bought two bottles of each..... then found another crowd who were offering the third type (for rejuvenating old decals)... and ordered a set of the three..... When Ebay finally sent my receipts - the three set is coming from the Isle of Wight.... so, will have something to add to this thread when I have more info.. frats, Rosco
  11. Bump - any movement on the EH or missing pix, Munter? Keen to know if you have kits ready yet.... frats, Rosco
  12. I bedded the motor in yesterday on the bench, Phil..... bit concerned it would be too small for this model.... On first start up - it took 1.5v to turn the rear axle... after three hours of bedding it in... it now only takes 0.5v before the axle will turn.. and it does this without hesitation in running.... These motors might just be ok - won't know until I get the model on the track - progress report on my A9-X thread coming later today..... looking very good as a fine performer at this point in time... And yes, I have a "slab" of those motors... bought them when I began to scratch build for the Tasman Proxy series.... small, but very pleased with the power output to weight...... frats, Rosco
  13. Ok, thanks Vinno - my previous comments and pix on Vinno's review of this model have been moved to this thread, so - we'll go on from here. Spent yesterday morning picking out the first two of four "Marlboro" decals .... these are the large ones which go on the sides.. yet to do the mid one for the front and small one for the rear. I'm off to my LHS shortly to pick up some MicroSol and MicroSet to apply them... and some clear coat. In the afternoon, I removed the rear axle assembly and fitted it up to the tyre/wheel truer.... This is what I started out with, the wheels were pretty good ex factory - but of course were out a bit.... And took them down on each of the three tyre faces until they were true.... I painted some water based adhesive to both the wheels and tyres then fitted them..... and bedded them in by running the assembly over the set up board to spread and balance out the glue whilst it was still wet.... I'll refit the axle to the truer today and true up the tyres. For now, I'm going to run this model using the factory motor, axle, wheels and tyres... However, whilst I had the rear axle out - I popped out the motor and trial fitted the Flat 6R.... There's plenty of room for it under the interior - but there will have to be some chomping away at both the centre beam and also the very heavy and chunky seat bases... By comparison - the differences between the factory and Flat 6R motor.... Factory = length (can) - 27.0mm, width - 15.5mm, height - 11.9mm, weight - 17.8g (with nylon pinion). Slot it Flat 6R = length (can) 32.5mm, width - 20.5mm, height - 13.0mm, weight - 31.3g (no pinion). This Flat 6R motor will be fitted to the current LJ XU-1 project... it may very well be a bit "hot" for the model... and I may very well have to choose a less powerful alternative... If this is the case, I will probably likewise do so for this A9-X... but until I finish the LJ - I won't be making any changes to the factory motor or driveline in this model.... frats, Rosco
  14. Thanks Vince - much appreciated if you can move it - I'll then go through and edit from within my own thread - apologies for swamping your thread. frats, Rosco
  15. Thanks Shaynus - I can see the posted ones as well.... now - but still can't log in... more work done on the A9-X today, pix taken but not uploaded due to log-in issues. frats, Rosco
  16. Ok folk, I've been swamping (overtaking) Vinno's review thread on this model, and believe I should honor his review by starting one of my own - on my modifications to one of my two PB A9-X's. With permission (moderators) - I'll copy/paste a bit of what I put up in Vinno's thread... and continue on here as from today... I am also having issues with accessing PostImage... it won't let me log in, I have put quite a bit up at that hosting site... maybe there is a limit. I got away from Photobucket because it wanted money... and may yet have to find another host if this is the case here... so, no pix with this. Back soon, with an update - lots to tell... for Scalextric, this model is the best overall finish and set-up I have seen from them for many years.... well done.... although, a few things could easily be fixed to make it a much better model again - like that blasted front bumper bar... and the tiny motor fitted, when there is plenty of room for a sidewinder flat can...... or just a larger in-line motor. The prototype for this model was a rocket - surely, it is fitting to have performance to match..... frats, Rosco
  17. Paul, others here have the same plate as mine - I know of one chap who has only used it once, and now uses a piece of MDF for simplicity.... I also have a "jeweller's tile"... ceramic and full of little holes you can poke a small brad into to keep axles etc in place - I built my first two Cooper scratch-builds on that. However, I never see to have to justify any exhorbitant expense when it comes to hobbies.... and this Precision Scale Slot one caught my eye pretty quickly.. My first construction on it is the LC and LJ scratch builds.... I have a thread in this forum (if you have 6 months to read it)... so far, it has more than done what I wanted it to. But - you will find this to be a very, very expensive outlay for the amount of time you'll probably sit at it ..... and a number of less expensive options are available.. For me, I'm more than happy with the outlay - being able to solder on it and keep everything in place - plus use it as a set-up plate... well, think you get the picture... I am yet to use the wire bender - but believe that will come into it own when I go to bend piano wire to the exact shape.... pliers and a small vice are great, but can not possibly give the control of being able to pull around a dowel to a marked angle when released........ much easier than bending and measuring angles in and out of a vice... Just as an aside - I have been messing around inside the chassis of the A9-X.... with a Flat 6R motor.. it will fit, but there's going to be a fair bit of "making room" for it. I'll post up some specs and pix .... don't know what's going on with PostImage at the moment - I can't get in.. and my pix in this thread have all disappeared... hope it's just a case of the site being down at present - I got away from another imaging host because it wanted money, and locked away everything I had put up for years.... hope this is not the case with PostImage.... grrrrrr frats, Rosco
  18. Hi Paul, here's the contact for Precision Scale Slot - there is a link to the website in there as well.... http://www.pslotcar.com/contact.html The set up plate I purchased is on page 3.... #2201 - Metric 1/32... don't be fooled by the cheap $79.95 price - my package ended up costing me over $300 delivered. frats, Rosco
  19. Hi Paul, I bought it from the US - terribly expensive... when I find the details, I'll add them here. Chap was excellent to deal with, when he found out what the shipping and exchange rates ended up costing me - he threw in a few extra bits. The plate is very heavy ceramic - so that you can solder away to your heart's contents.... might scorch it, but shouldn't damage it.... and, being ceramic - won't suck the living daylights out of your soldering iron absorbing heat from the metal... He suggested I get the wire bender as well - which I did.... and I also ordered a fair few extra stainless pins.... from experience, finding rod or pins to nicely fit into factory made accessories like this is very difficult - ok if you only want to be "close" - but I like things to fit as the designer intended.... removes a lot of the "moving" issues we have when soldering. I also ordered the wheel chocks (set up blocks)... they allow the chassis to be positioned at the height of the tyres.. or wheels, whichever way you choose to assemble your model. frats, Rosco
  20. Ok, thought I'd get this done before I get lost outside in the garage and forget... Just took a handful of pix - pretty much should cover all of this... First up - the factory positioning of the bumper.... And my modified positioning... some might believe that it's actually now pointing downwards - but if you look at the rear of the model - you'll also see that it optically seems to be doing the same at the back end.... Here is my #2 car - the chassis and body as mounted at the factory - I will not mess with this car, other than decals and that blasted front bumper... Here is what I ended up with so far with #1 car.... magnet gone, DPR socket and panel gone, chassis trimmed for body float.... This is where I have got to so far with the interior hacking - with the body mounted on the chassis, only looking down through the windows to the floor reveals anything missing... But the hack has made a big difference to overall weight of the car... And here we have my "modified" chassis - DRP socket and leads gone... everything shortened and trimmed to length.. And here it is as it comes out of the factory - oil still present in this model.. but I did wipe away a pool of it under the crown - obviously, the running of the driveline was tested at the factory - I doubt that I'll ever run this model... even as a comparison to #1. And - as stated - Scalextric got the chassis of this one right - both my models sit perfectly flat on the set up plate... you can see in this pic that all four wheels sit nicely on the plate.... I am yet to true the wheels, then glue the tyres and true those up ..... along with setting the bushes in the chassis - I'm really hoping this model will be ever so much better than the L-34 has been.... Hope that just about covers it.... decals to come yet too - that will make a great difference to the look of the model... and I have to do something about PB - the driver in this model is nothing like him... probably closer to Jim Richards - which may very well have been the subject... frats, Rosco
  21. Sure, Shaynus... give me a couple of hours.... I'll show one of the "collector" version, which I won't touch - and one that I've had a "fiddle" with.... I'd have liked a cross-axle mounted motor - and a motor with a bit more bulk to it than what Scalextric fitted.. it's a long can slim line motor - with a very long shaft to the crown.... currently in my "plan" box.... I'd like to fit a Flat 6 to it with a Slot-It rear axle assembly.... I'll do a bit of work and let you know. There must be a "glut of oil at Scalextric - I have soaked up and wiped out a gallon of light oil from the chassis... even a pool of it under the motor and magnet... There is a lot of tightening up of axle bushes and guide pin to do yet.... the axles are coated in a gloss black - I don't yet know if they are steel or aluminium... they run in loosely fitted nylon bushes at rear... and simply push through holes in the chassis at the front. What is good about this Scalextric model - is that the alignment and mesh of the driveline is very good... as opposed to my L-34 when I got it... this model runs freely along a set up plate quite happily... I don't believe I'll have to "re-learn" the plastic chassis in this one - all four wheels seem to sit on the set up plate quite well. There is very little clearance from the rear tyres to the body... I have chopped away some of the chassis to create body float... and may have to fit a very thin washer just to ensure that the top of the rear tyres does not foul the body wheel arch flares... no evidence of it yet.. but it must be close.. There isn't any dash instrument detail.. just a black dash..... the interior is all a "buff" brown/beige color.... grinding into it reveals a black plastic - so, it's been painted that colour. I'm not sure yet how much "interior" was necessary in the "series production" rules at the time.. I may very well be allowed to hack further into the interior... I have an almost finished model which almost balances equally on both axles... am yet to run it on a track and see how it runs - but I believe it will be a heck of a lot better than the L-34 -which I was very disappointed with - befitting the proto-type.... I am hoping for something exiting with the A9-X - if it follow the same parallel.... I have reduced a lot of weight out of the "running" model.... all up - I'm down to 76.9g..... I removed and re-wired the DPR parts and lid as well, and have simple connections from the pick up to the motor, then from the motor to both the LED boards front and rear.... It's a no-brainer to do this mod, if you aren't going digital..... the green lead from the pick up becomes the red positive input to the motor... the yellow lead becomes the black negative one.... the onboard "socket" simply bridges the yellow to black, and green to red.... Obviously, with a digital card.... the yellow and green are supply - the red, positive to the motor and LED's and the black likewise negative..... with a bit of electronic wizardry for the chip to tell the leads what to do.... and signal back down the line to the controller... At this point in time, I have no intention of going digital.. I have a number of cars which can - and one which has the chip in it if I ever want to go visit a digital track... Ok... back later with some pix... frats, Rosco
  22. Yes, Shaynus - apparently all of these A9-X's are the same... I note Armchair have stock of another livery version - just about guaranteed that the bumper is aimed at koala's on that one too... My guess is that it's a tooling issue - the bumper tang slots are more than likely set at the same angle as the headlight shrouds... and the bumper presses in at that angle - and not horizontal.. that's my guess. Will post up a report on fixing the second A9-X - but only it, and the Marlboro decals are going to be done on that one - it will be kept as a collector's item.... this current one will "race"... doing lots of work on it at present... Not in love with the long shafted tiny motor in it - I'm looking at fitting a Flat 6... can't have the LJ going harder than an A9-X - can I? frats, Rosco
  23. Ok folk, Bumper job done... plus grinding/cajoling out the lower radiator intake.... Front - Top - Side - I believe I have got location, placement and angle pretty close - with the "rib" of the channel in the bumper running parallel to the skirt of the body, and the amount of set-out from the front just enough to be able to see the very feintest of gap between the body and the rear of the bumper... I have now to trim Patto's water-slide Marlboro decals then a final light clear coat to finish the body... With #2 A9-X - my intention now is to simply "slice" away at the bumper mount from underneath.... again, my preferred method is to use a fine pointed very sharp scalpel blade and draw it backwards along the cut - having first made a very careful "forward" cut to mark the line.... I'll keep gouging this out with the blade until the bumper can be angled level... then cement it in place. I am using a new-to-me cyano - which is working a treat on plastics.... "Tarzan's GRIP ShockProof Super Glue...."rubber toughened".... it seems to be able to get a hold of differing plastics that I have always had trouble with. Further - although the title suggests it's flexible - it really doesn't seem so - but I have not broken anything off by knocking it yet.... it might just be a winner for our slot car application. Bought mine from the Big Red Hammer store - bit exxy.. but........ if it works....... frats, Rosco
  24. Ok...... more done - bumper mount inserts fitted and lower radiator intake filed out. Just whilst I have the mic - I have the body apart, the interior weigh a massive 11.79g and the body without it but with glazing - 22.6g - the overall body weight increases by over another 50% when the interior is added... I'll be "trimming some fat" from mine..... not happy with PB either - does anyone make a head for PB? I can fashion a helmet for the era to fit. Pix... I filled in my little oopsie and painted the filler white....... also painted the top of the styrene mount blocks black so that they will not be seen when the bumper is fitted. Internal - painted the area black to conceal my work.. frats, Rosco
  25. Hi folk, hope I'm not stealing OP's thread?.... My two A9-X's arrived yesterday - by golly, that bumper was the first thing I saw...even before I opened the box. Having two, and with the decision to attack one and tune it - I decided the first blow would be to the bumper. By golly, is that sucker a mongrel to get out. I started with a Dremel and a fine engraving bit - taking away the "meat" of the bumper mount from inside. Word of warning!.... be very, very careful around the top of the mount - it didn't take much to creep into the headlight surround - I have a little bit of repair work to do in there, but it's nothing concerning - a pin head dab of putty and some black acrylic will all but repair it. After some 20 minutes, taking away what I believed should have been the cemented posts into the body - it wouldn't budge... and I wasn't game enough to go any deeper. So, grabbed the finest and sharpest scalpel blade I could must and started to "backwards" scrape between the body and the bumper - which eventually brought success. I filed out the aperture in the body to a rectangle shape - then make up some laminated styrene card blocks to fill the holes. So, here we have the bumper removed with the two apertures filed out (excuse rough fibres).. Next up, filed back the mounts on the bumper to square in line.. then will mount the blocks to them.... insert them in the apertures - and cement them in place... This is what the bumper mount shape is.... after grinding away what is inside the aperture. I still don' t know why the bumper was fitted inclined - there does not appear to be any reason for it - maybe the post was molded at an angle - I don't know ... I ground all of mine off in the process of getting the bumper out. And this is the slot I ended up with.... Outside.... I will post some more up after re-fitting the bumper in place - I am undecided whether I'll grind out the lower radiator aperture under the bumper... I'm not a great fan of "faux" openings... this one shouldn't be too hard to do... not touching the grille. And - take a bow, Scalextric - those windscreen wipers .... by golly, why oh why didn't you fit something similar to the Falcon GTHO series - those wipers are atrocious... perhaps they were listening here, folk...? frats, Rosco
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