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rosco01

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Posts posted by rosco01


  1. Thanks Vlad,

    I guess practice will reveal if the wall thickness is sufficiently resilient to withstand the riggors of slot car racing... 

    Keen to hear of you resultant findings... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  2. Welcome TonyAussie,

    One greybeard to another, with many similar interests - r/c aircraft, model railways and "tinkering".

    You don't state your location?... I'm in the far outer eastern suburbs of Melbourne, be nice if I had someone out this way to share the loneliness... 

    Arthritis - warmer weather coming... time to get stuck in before the heat drives us all under a/c... and another window in Autumn before the cold makes our joints refuse to bend... 

    Again, welcome aboard... don't be afraid to ask anything on modeling in here - it's a great forum.

    frats,

    Rosco


  3. Thanks Shaynus.... yes, I run Scalextric "sport" track... I'd prefer a wood layout, but space simply prevents my building one.

    I don't run magnets in any of my models... so, maybe I won't suffer the issue... we'll see.. and I'll report when the day I set a track up comes...

     

    thanks again, 

    much appreciated.

    frats,

    Rosco


  4. Thanks Shaynus,

    I took a good look throught You Tube today and have picked up a lot..... 

    Even the best of the best can be made better, quieter and smoother... Revo are no exception - some mods I'll definitely be including into mine.

    The fitting of silicone spacers on the underside of the body mount screws where they go into the chassis (not to be confused with the already fitted insulators between the chassis and the body)  for one... and checking all the screws and nuts....

    Adding "Gorilla Tape" to the chassis/pod mounts - makes Revo cars with aluminium chassis much quieter (removes metal on metal).

    Some great info out there on Revo cars if you look for it.

     

    Thunderslot can be made better as well... I have three of the McLaren's.... including the Elvis/Bruce McLaren one..

    Few little tricks on positioning the motor pinion and setting the axle bushes into the chassis with nail-polish.

    Also, the front wheels/tyres - good demo on how to true them both up using nail-polish as the adhesive.

    Also, to add weight inside the total area of the triangular pod base.. plus some up on the outside of the chassis each side of the front pod mount... 

    I have six NSR cars.. not so many mods to those, but some... apparently, they are pocket rockets out of the box - two Moslers and a GT-40 plus three 86-89 F1 cars... maybe more to come as well

     

    Lots to do... so little time left to get it all done... and - new cars arriving soon as well..... what have I done?

     

    I probably really need to join/form a club out here in the outer east of Melbourne... any takers?

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  5. Thanks Pepsi.... screws, yes.... will do - nothing worse than one popping between the contact rails and blowing a fuse in a controller... 

    Just as an aside, do any club tracks require that screws etc be covered by tape to ensure they don't foul or fall out?.... just asking.

    Thanks for the welcome back... so much to do, so little time left... 66 y.o. and counting (rapidly).

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  6. Hi folk,

    been a while..... I'm back and on the bench again continuing with work left over from May....

    We escaped Vic lockdown (again) back on 27th May and got over the border into NSW with only 4 hours up our sleeve without need to go into hotel quarantine...

    So, did not have a chance to pack anything away - or come online to say I was taking a three/four month break from the hobby.

    Like last year, we had a wonderful four months far up north in sunny Queensland... and took nothing of any slot car form with me.. pity, I had times when I could have worked quite happily on a table out under the awning of the van.. but, the warning I got (through the back door sic).. left no time to throw anything in.... we finished packing what we had to take well after 22:00 the night before... 

    So, whilst I was up there.. I ordered a few new cars... some yet to arrive, as they were ordered as late as two weeks back.

    My daughter took delivery of those who came in.... 

    Apart from the unfinished models which have now mounted up and will take precedence to finish before I start on the newly acquired ones - I now have six new NSR cars... three of the 86-89 F1 cars - Toshiba, Olivetti and Beatrice plus a GT-40 mk 2 and two Moslers... I have not yet put any of these NSR models on a track and would be appreciative if members can give me any information I should heed prior to running them.. I am led to believe the Moslers are very quick out of the box....?

    Along with those, I now have my first Revo-Slot model.. the Gulf Dodge Viper - wow! I am so impressed with the engineering and assembly of this model... so much so, that I have ordered a further two models... GT-2 Porsches.... and a third white kit one to come.... 

    I would also appreciate any information or advice with the Revo cars.. I have not had or seen them before - I am quite taken by the chassis - everything is drilled and screwed... alas, I'll now have to get some more tools... the axle diameter is 3.0 mm..... I suspect this is something to do with the very small ball bearings used on both front and rear axles... 

     

    As well as those, my Slot-It Skyline (Skaiffe/Richards) is on its way... it's coming with the Revo Porsches.

    Another car arrived in my absence was the Scalextric A9-X of Brock/Brock.... I'm thinking this will be a collector model.. it will share unused condition with one of the Brock A9-X which I did not fiddle with... 

    I have a Flyslot 911 on backorder.. if I'd known that the Revo 911's were coming - I probably wouldn't have ordered this one... I have the Brian Foley one - and that took an enormous amount of work to get it to sit and run properly.. I suspect that the second of these will be no less of a challenge...

     

    So, folk  - just reporting in... after a 4 month absence...

     

    Looking forward to any feedback/advice on the NSR and Revo models... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

     

     

     


  7. Thank you, Alan for making this year's series possible.

    I don't believe anyone can appreciate the effort demanded for running such an event - the collecting, scrutineering, and dispatch to the next round.... not to mention the responsibility for the thousands of hours of work that competitors have committed to thier entries.

    Further, to the hosts and drivers (and support staff) who conducted each round - thank you.

     

    And finally, to the entrants - I am always impressed with the very high standard of entries which have been created - both in presentation, and performance.

    It is indeed a most wonderful opportunity to re-live the history of our competition motoring past, but also to replicate those amazing machines which created it.

    Thank you, every one of those whom my little effort enjoyed the opportunity to compete against.... and their creators.

     

    I look forward to again entering next year's series - and yes, let's all hope that next year - we will be free to enjoy a life without this dastardly virus having control of our lives.... 

     

    Again, thank you to all involved in this year's series.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  8. I have not had internet for quite some time and have just been able to catch up with the series and results. 

    The last event I saw was round 2... so, was happy to see that my little effort completed the series without falling apart and disgracing itself.

    However, it is with great glee that indeed my little T-53 has been endowed with the John Smedley constructor's award for this year.... I feel a little ashamed that I have not been able to comment on the series rounds and thank those after each event for the wonderful dedication committed to running each event.

    Thank you to all entrants who produced some wonderful models that my little effort shared the track to relive the '60's.

    As with many of the entrants, it was almost an 11th hour decision to complete a build that was mothballed for some three years, and very little progress had been made other than the basic chassis plates. The body was hardly touched and parts had to be found from the large collection of many other projects.

    Everything else went on hold until I completed the model - and I was very releived when it all seemed to hold together after just a handful of laps around a rushed assembly of some of my Scalextric track... and mailed off to reach the entry deadline... I am indeed chuffed that it completed the series and am gobsmacked on receiving the John Smedley award..... 

    Special mention to the drivers, marshalls and back-up staff who are unsung heroes - it was very pleasing to see some faces and names of those who contributed... thank you.

    Finally, a very special thank you to Alan - who, under the very troublesome constraints and restrictions of getting the series completed due to Covid and the associated unsurity of how to determine/plan the series - thank you.

    This year's John Smedly award will be treasured for many years to come and will take pride of place within display of my growing collection.

    I very much look forward to next year, and hope that we can all be free of this rancid disease which has put just so many of us under a threat that we have not seen before in our lifetimes.... 

    I look forward to a final wrap of each car and what is suggested to improve performance.... I am still very much learning this "black art" in stratchbuilding and tuning.... maybe my effort next year will produce better times, but overall - I am delighted with coming away with such an honour of taking this year's John Smedley constructor's trophy... 

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 3

  9. Amazing work, Chris.... end result will be another stunner.

    I now have two T/S Moslers.. the yellow anniversary one is a beautiful car - not so much in love with the Martini one... but apparently, they go well.

    Both of mine have A/W drive-lines.

    frats,

    Rosco


  10. When I get to them, I'll run a report thread on this Chris..... I'm certain now from what you post - that I can effect some tuning of these pods.

    From memory, the rear pod suspension arrangement was such that an adjustable screw set both extremes of pod travel. Two screws at the front of the pod afforded greater control of fine tuning. Differing spring tensions were available.. from a very soft to a fairly firm. I believe I set mine with something in the mid-range... my track is really not that bad - but it's plastic track - and the factory undulations ire identical in each straight piece... I really look after my track, it is cleaned and the running rails wiped down with Inox before being all packaged up in the original boxes and stored until next use.... I have always been this way since purchasing my first D straight in 1966..... a discipline which I simply can't bring myself not to continue with... 

    I believe the U shaped piano wire addition and some 380 will bring the componentry of the pod to a much more rigid state.. and very much look forward to learning of what effect this upgrade will bring to each model.

    Of all the piano wire chassis models I have now constructed - each of them has that rigid U shaped rear bracket - the motor firmly locked to it by screws, and the axle secured in place by the soldered in brass/bronze bushes... it is this that we wish to replicate in commercial plastic etc chassis pods... 

     

    I have had great success with some earlier Scalextric models which never ran right - a Triumph TR-7 and a Mk1 Escort immediately come to mind. There was so much flex of the rear axle/pinion arrangement in those models that they bound up continually... and flexed out  causing gear teeth chomping.

    I corrected this as best I could with heavy applications of JB-weld with some wire embedded into it - it made a huge difference to the performance and longevity of the drive-train.... 

    With the Slot-It chassis - each of my GT-40's (I think there are 8) - I stripped the chassis and re-learned the plastic in the hot bath/long cool process.. using a flat metal plate and magnets to keep it perfectly flat until the plastic re-learned itself... 

    Each of those models was a lot easier to set up once the chassis was true... none of them came out of the factory with it in a flat plane.... some were close, but none of them could be positioned on a set-up plate with trued wheels and tyres without one wheel lifting when the opposite side/end was pushed down on the plate.

    Probably didn't do a lot for plastic track use - but it certainly made them better performers when I used to take them to a club wood set up..... 

    Plastic track is for people who don't have room for a wood layout.. I'm convinced of this... I'd love to have room to make one - but like just so many things in my life - each hobby only has enough room/storage for a certain percentage overall.... I yearn for space, but understand I'd simply fill it with more "stuff".... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  11. Thanks Chris, all questions thus far answered and acknowledged.

    I'll take a closer look at the suspension system fitted to my Slot-It GT40 fleet.. but, from memory, that triangle is fixed - I'll make it more rigid.

    I firmly (excuse pun) believe it's the pod that affords suspension - not the rear axle. I can't for the life of me come to believe that Slot-It would create such a fault... but, I'll check when I open the vault again in four or five months' time... next planned return to the hobby.

    Will PM you and explain pending break.....

     

    frats, 

    Rosco


  12. 2 hours ago, Oldskool62 said:

    @rosco01Firstly great to see a post from you. I miss your detail. Secondly I am glad that you also have learnt about this brace.

     

    Cheers

     

    Warren

    Busy as all heck at present, Warren... in matters outside hobbies. 

    Slot cars have been locked away in the "vault" for six or seven weeks now.. with only the LJ body free to work on when I have time (rare).

    I had never considered a brace across the back of a plastic chassis... not fully appreciating just how much flex occurs under load from the motor to the wheels.

    It may explain some of the strange noises I have been listening to for decades.... in particular, the Scalextric GT-40 Mk 2's that I have a couple of... one is better than the other, but I now expect that it is firmer.... they will both get the piano wire bracket addition - and we'll note if it improves/removes this apparent mysterious noise...

    I will have much to do when I return to the hobby later on in the year. It was a rush to get the Tasman Cup proxy car up and posted.... with that out of the way, I was able to mothball slot car projects for now,  hence my absence from the forum of late.

    I have purchased a second T/S Mosler - bit unfair to only run one in competition - so, I will have two when the second arrives.

    Also - the Winfield Slot-It Skyline and Peter/Phil Brock's Scalextric A9-X are both on pre-order... 

     

    Apologies for swamping your thread, Chris.... still keen to learn what weights you used on the M6A... and what paint/colour you created such a lovely looking period model with...

     

    frats,

    Rosco

     


  13. Thanks Chis - my learning curve has just "tilted" skywards.

    I have absolutely no experience of this new-to-me support, but fully expect that it will now be incorporated into every model I either purchase or strip down for a refit.... 

    I have many Slot-It models - all with this same apparent ability to flex - I'll compare one against the other as progression is made through the fleet.

    In all the Slot-It GT-40's I have - I have installed the optional rear suspension system... it works a treat on Scalextric plastic track - being able to balance out undulations laterally across the track... 

    I have yet to strip one of these down, but believe the fitting of this new-fandangled (to me) can be incorporated.... it's the tilting/twisting alignment of the axle in the pod which is the issue.... if the motor goes with the suspension, the incorporation of such bracket will ensure that the assembly stays rigid as one... yet, the axle can "float" up/down in the chassis to smooth out contact with the imperfect track... I'll take a very close look at this, Chris - but, I can attest that the fitting of the suspension springs/assembly to these GT40 models most certainly affords better times on poor plastic track.... which is all that I have.

     

    Thanks for your reply - any word on the weights used in your T/S chassis....?

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  14. Lovely work - again, Chris.....

    I have the same white kit yet to be started on. 

    First I've seen of using an axle brace - if I am not wrong, this is the "L" shaped bracket across the rear of the pod - held down by screws and Nylocs...?

    Did you fabricate this yourself, of is it commercially marketed?

    Also, what did you use for your weights?.... they seem dull like lead - from lead sheet?

    Love the livery - simple, but very clean and "just" the right amount of decals.

    Paint?

    We have stumbled onto a new paint supplier here in Oz.... SMS. The chap is a long term modeler and has ventured into developing, producing and marketing his own product.

    It is all acrylic lacquer - and he goes a long way into explaining what the product is. It comes pre-thinned for air brush use in a 30 ml bottle - but he also supplies thinners, retarders and levelers.... I have not sprayed a slot car with it yet... but results from other models have been extremely pleasing. It flows out beautifully from the brush and dries very quickly. The clear coat is probably the clearest I have yet used, and dries to a hard shell-like coating.

    I have not applied it over decals as yet.... but I read that it is not as invasive as many of other manufacturers.... a mist coat prior to a wet coat seems to appease most decals.... will report when I've had a play.

    He further markets a number of very fine pigmented 2K colours and some "colour shifts".

     

    Looking forward to getting an optic on your second model.

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  15. Chas, if you've used Post Image before - should still be the same.

    Only issue I have is that each pic has to be sent separately, and I then have to go back and select and upload the next one.

    Simply "copy image" by clicking right on the second bottom image location once uploaded - then pasting it into your forum thread by again clicking right and "paste"... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

     


  16. Thanks Chas....put a bit of work into it, but not as much as my previous entry a couple of years back.

    This one does not have the same top end speed that #1 did... not sure what it is..... same motor, wheels, gears etc. etc... might just be a motor which needs a bit of running before it comes on song...

    However, it was ticking over nicely without any binding at just 1.1v.... #1 was around that on completion.. we'll see.... main thing, those who are privileged to enjoy running the entire field during events enjoy them..... and that none are subjected to needing any repairs during the series... 

    Yes, there must be a bit of the field still in transit - every confidence they'll make the scrutineer's paddock well before start of proceedings... 

    frats,

    Rosco


  17. Ok folk,

    front mounts are done.... I have left the third centre mount in situ for now... can't see that I'll need it, but it always seems to result that when you start to cut something out - you find a reason why you should not have... so, I'm leaving it there for now.... long way to go before the body is finished... chassis is now done, so that's a big part of the build out of the way... 

     

    I chose this as my final ride height - it's a bit of a compromise between full on proto and soaking up a little bit of that low hanging brass side plate... see what you think?

     

    001-ride-height-mail.jpg

     

    002-brass-side-plates-mail.jpg

     

    003-right-side-height-mail.jpg

     

    I have had a long hard look at the guide and leads... and believe I have come out of this a lot better than originally feared. I can leave the lower grill intake complete, I do need to shave a small radius from the inner rear to allow for the guide bolt and washer - but to my relief, the leads will run through the intake... and when I trim them to size - should not present any ugly issue - or compromise the full arc of the guide in either direction... so, I have had a win here.... the guide is as far forward as I would care to take it.... the very front sits under the bumper.. so we don't see it looking down... it looks ugly, but this is to be expected for a sedan body I expect.... with this very high ride height... 

     

    004-guide-leads-mail.jpg

     

    005-guide-leads-front-mail.jpg

     

    And here we can see my work re-inventing the front body posts... the original post remains in the centre.. I will clean all this area up before finishing the body... 

    These new posts allow the body to sit exactly where I want it on the chassis... I'll open out the holes in the chassis a tad to create some body float... 

     

    006-front-mount-posts-mail.jpg

     

    007-body-mount-posts-mail.jpg

     

    I can now return to work on the body, some of the rear bumper has been inked in Molotow... and the rear taillights.... I will mask up the front and ink the surrounds for the grille and headlights.. then black out the excess.... when happy, I'll fit the brass grille in... and we then need to sort out headlights... so, before I get to the interior - I have a bit of work to go yet... 

     

    until next...

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 2

  18. 23 minutes ago, Shaynus said:

    I wouldn't be too worried about your front chassis wing - Australia II had a secret wing and that turned out pretty well! ;)

    A-2 did really well with her wing, Bondy gave permission to lift her skirts after winning the series...... I've already shown what's under the hemline on this little car, Shaynus.... 

    Yes, posts are now setting in JB.. I believe I've got the ride height pretty accurate to Proto... we'll see when the wheel inserts go in... 

    May have some issues with the front guide now - I'm hoping to get away without having to cut into the lower skirt under the grille - I re-positioned the guide after noting what Vinno did with his.... my guide is "just" not visible from above at the front.... but there will be issues with getting the leads back under the body... too early to call yet - chassis is now locked in position... so, we'll have to mess with the body if it all doesn't fit up.... it will be the top of the guide and leads where I come unstuck... not the end of the world, but I was hoping to keep all that area scale correct... might be too much to ask - end of the day, it's a slot car - not a bench showpiece... 

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  19. Ok, job is done.... relatively easy to set up. I simply used the original centre hole in the post and fitted an M2 cap head up through it... placed the strip in position then tightened down a small nut when I was happy with position.... then "wick" soldered the joint.. cleaned it up and all done.

     

    I will now cut two short lengths of styrene tube and screw them to these holes.... trim them to size and then set the body in position... and finally JB weld them to the body... 

     

    Pix... 

     

    2001-body-mount-wing-mail.jpg

     

    2002-wing-mail.jpg

     

    2003-wing-front-mail.jpg

     

    2004-front-body-mounts-underside-mail.jp

     

    Back tomorrow with some pix of the new posts in position.. and hopefully, a satisfactory report on removing that tilt.... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1
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