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rosco01

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Posts posted by rosco01


  1. Just one further question if I may, Chris?... 

    When you trenched out the recess for your guide blade - how far back along the plate did you go?

    I intend to go only as far as a model will reach with the rear wheels at the other end of the plate, and only to the depth that a wooden guide blade will reach... leaving the base below that intact.

    I purchased three 200 mm x 100 mm x 10 mm aluminium plates today - work begins tomorrow.

    frats,

    Rosco


  2. Great work,

    might have to look at a 3D printer .... one day...

    Love your Boss 302... can you tell me a bit about your model - keen to add one to my garage, have a soft spot for this car - AM put a huge amount of effort into getting it out here and tuning it.... pity he wasn't afforded the respect and cohesion from Ford America - it's a sad story, all revealed in the great book of his history that I highly recommend reading.

    Being a "red lion" fan, and owner - the book completely turned my opinion of AM around... I now wish I had afforded him greater respect during his racing... what RJ and NB did to him when he launched the 302 at Calder - belittled them both.

    frats,

    Rosco


  3. Thanks again, Chris - I may have created confusion in what I posted above - yes, my intention is only to mill out the guide blade slot - using a 2 mm bit.

    I can then do as you suggest and apply masking tape to replicate the contact rails of Scalextric Sport track... but it tends to vary a bit - not ideal, more suited to "playing" slot cars than anything of a more serious application... 

     

    much appreciated, 

    frats,

    Rosco


  4. Thanks Chris - more of the hidden black art explained.

    I'll just mill out a 2 mm trench for the guide on a piece of 10 mm ali bar I have in my stock. Anything else I might add for convenience.

    As you very well know (and put me onto) I have the 1/32 scratchbuilder's ceramic board - works a treat.

    Still a little unsure of how to use the wheel blocks - I ordered extra sets of them along with additional pins and the bending jig. Getting the location of a bend exactly where needed in piano wire still confuses me, and I make many mistakes - do you have a trick for placing piano wire against the pin prior to bending.. 

    My method is to mark where the start of the bend is and sort of rotate that mark around the pin to locate where it will commence the bend... not very exacting. I'm certain there is a better method in setting up wire in the jig, but it's beyond my comprehension.

    I have fallen in love with Revo models - I love the "non-plastic" chassis - everything is screwed down and there isn't any need for bracing the rear axle mounts in relation to the motor.... I am yet to run one, but believe they will be a little noisier. I have seen a You-Tube vid where small silicone spacers have been fitted between the body mount screws and the body..... 

    Also, I'm not totally convinced the "sprung" guide pin is the way to go... my preference has always been to effect as little freedom of the pin in the pin guide... 

    It may suit my Scalextric track - there is very little "constant" in the surface of the power rails as the car goes around the track... the rails tend to undulate a little - no matter how careful and cautious I have been when assembling, dismantling and storing my track pieces over the years... plastic is not the rock solid constant that a routed track is.... and the "floating" guide of Revo models may very well aid in this undulation.. I'm not sure how the model will track in the groove with such an arrangement.

    As for weight - thanks, I had it the wrong way around... but fortunately, haven't started messing around with adding weight to models.. I suspect, like wheel balancing on our infernal combustion road motor machines - the smallest amount to achieve the desired result is to be aimed for..... 

    Ok, thanks again Chris - as always, you information is most appreciated and considered mentoring..

    frats,

    Rosco


  5. Thanks again, chaps..... I hope to do some airbrushing on Friday - we are baby sitting for the next two days (3 y.o. - attention demanding and always asking where I am if I try to disappear)... 

    Chris, I have a Mill and some aluminium - I might make up one of these blocks. I suspect the 0.005" recess is for the thickness of the braid used on your models?.... so it ensues positive (and negative) contact with the braid onto the power rails.... 

    I have not gone to the extreme of setting models up for differing tracks - I simply don't have access to anything but my own plastic Scalextric "sport" track... 

    The degree which I go to in order to set my cars up is probably overkill for plastic track... bit they seem to run smoother and can turn out better times when they are set up - as opposed to how the factory does... some pretty ordinary models have come out of boxes on delivery - truing tyres and aligning axles seems to be the first things which produce the greatest gains..... then we start looking at motors and mesh... etc, etc, etc.... 

     

    I have no idea on weight distribution yet.. I recently purchased some 1mm lead strips... and will seek information on how best to set a model up when distributing whatever is needed around a model.

    From memory, I believe I read from one person that they tend to aim for a 60/40 balance.... the 60 being the front.... 

     

    Ok, back over to you...... 

    frats,

    Rosco


  6. Thanks fella's - I have made a quantum leap into SMS paints. I understand that clear Tamiya can be used successfully and works fine.

    In another forum, I have also been informed that SMS clear acrylics do likewise. 

    I am grateful for your replies and will proceed to colour my lenses.

    Question - is it usual practice to colour the inside of the lens? I suspect so.

    Chris, that 997 looks amazing. Can you tell me a bit more about the aluminium plate you have it sitting on. I note that it has a slot channel with something on what would be the contact rails which is coloured yellow. My suspicion is that this is some form of masking tape, and I am bewildered on its function... 

    The only thing I can fathom is to prevent the braid from shorting through the aluminium block - but why you would apply power to a model sitting on it...well, I hahave an inquisitive mind... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  7. Thanks fella's... I have used texta's before with arguable success.

    As for painting with silver first - I tried that some time back for headlight lenses... with Molotow chrome. Sad thing was - the rear of the lens was chrome... where I wanted it chrome was dull silver.. 

    I now make up styrene card disks and coat them with Molotow - and glue them to the back of the lens... using canopy glue.. works a treat.

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  8. Ok folk,

    I put a question up on the SMS facebook site concerning colouring clear plastic parts.

    From what I have been replied with, SMS will not affect them..... but it has been suggested to "mist" two light coats onto the clear plastic before hitting them with more solid coats... repeat until satisfactory.

    It has also been used to "tint" the main windows... 

    The clear SMS colours I have are very "thin"... allowing successive coats until the desired body is attained.

    My method of using floor polish was shunned to some extent - but also accepted by others.... 

    I'll report back with results in both methods... and maybe some pix to give illustration of my findings...

    frats,

    Rosco


  9. Thanks for the reply, Vinno - yes, I'm playing around with parts of the kit... the unseen parts of the windscreens and some of the sprues... but these are very limited in Revo kits.

     

    I'll post up what I find... so far, I have coated a number of parts with Pascoe's floor polish - leave them a couple of days then I might try some of SMS clear red and clear orange on them..

    I expect that it is usual practice to colour the underside of clear parts? and leave the outside to give that plastic lens look?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  10. Hi folk,

    my turn to ask some questions... painting clear plastic kit parts.

    I am in the process of another Revo white kit  and have just about finished it.

    I've hit a stumbling block - Revo 911's come with a coloured rear bar across the tail and two front curved indicators on the front.

    The factory assembled models have these coloured red and orange..... but the white kit is clear, without any coloured film supplied to colour them.

    I have purchased some SMS "clear red" and "clear orange" and intend to paint these parts from the inside. 

    However, SMS "premium" range paint is a true acrylic (with harsh solvents) and I fear I may fog or damage these lovely parts.

    Can any suggest how to colour these please.... at present, my thoughts are to coating the insides with Pascoe's floor polish and over coat with SMS premium clears a couple of days later.

    This trick works fine over Patto's decals - the floor polish seems to provided the clear needed barrier against agressive solvents... 

    frats,

    Rosco


  11. Forgot to mention - main issue with them was the roll bar mounts.. they didn't line up and had to be re-drilled. Also, you'll notice with "purple" it cants forward.. this was another model error.... with "blue", I did quite a bit of filing to the front of the engine which allowed me to move the bar vertical. I had to cajole away a bit of engine and body underneath to get the float. As it came in the kit (and also the Elvis car) the motor fouls the body from full float... 

    The wheel inserts all needed sanding down... they were too tight a fit into the hubs... tricky job, to get them to run true... I used clear nail polish to keep them in splace... applying the polish to the inside of the hub rather than on the insert. This way, the insert pushes the polish into the hub as it enters.... painting the stuff onto the insert causes the polish to build up and spread over the outside of the hubs and tyres... again, "blue" got the benefit of learning from that exercise.

    The roll bar support fits into a slot in the roll bar and at the other end, it goes into the motor... it's not quite right and a bit of argy needs doing to get the bar vertical... blue won over purple here.

    The motor parts went together well. The main block is airbrushed in SMS "stainless". The fittings are Molotow - as are the roll bar and mirror. I also used it on the gearshift linkage, but used Tamiya "rubber black" on the steering wheel rim and gear knob.... "rubber black" is my go to for such things - it really tricks up detail.

    With "Elvis" - I noted the join lines around the model... I didn't want those.... and used Tamiya putty in assembly. It brought a much better end finish to the model... I was a little disappointed in "Elvis"... so very well finished, I'd have expected them to have gone that little more and make the result brilliant - rather than excellent... picky, I know...... "Elvis" is a great looking model - the decals are simply stunning.

    The headlight assembly is quite tricky to assemble... but it looks amazing. On my LJ XU-1, I have cut some small discs of styrene card and painted them in Molotow chrome. 

    With the Elva's and also T70 Lola - I tried to paint Molotow on the rear of the headlight lenses.... it didn't work - and left them satin silver.

    My plan for the XU-1 is to fit the small styrene discs to the rear of the lens... and use "canopy glue" to secure them. Gluing around the discs once in place. This should negate the dulling of the Molotow yet will securely fasten them to the rear of the lens..... I'll post this up on the LJ thread once done.

    That little model is nearly done - but I'm having issues with the interior. I can make use of a lot more room in there and it seems wasted to fit the almost flat tray just below the windows line... I am looking for a head for Peter Brock... any suggestions?

    I'll put something up on the Mr Slotcar McLaren M6a soon... the paint I used is simply stunning.... SMS "black hole" colour shift - first time for me, and it went down very easily - I was expecting issues with laying it, but it was fairly straight forward... I used SMS "super black" underneath - this brought more of the blue/purple out - using a white base would have brought more of the orange... which is pretty much dormant over "super black"... 

     

    I'm in the mixing stage for another model - a Revo-slot Porsche 911 GT-2 white kit. My daughter wants this sprayed in "metallic teal"... which is simply not available.

    Scott at SMS (this bloke backs his small private company by hard advice) suggested I spray "pearl white" as a base and either top coat with "spearmint green" or "ice blue".... then over coat that with "clear aqua"... we are messing around on plastic spoons at present - getting close, but I believe I'll end up making up a mix of my own using the suggested colours... as done with "blue" Elva.

    I seriously suggest and promote SMS paints - as in a separate thread. The "premium" range is perfect for airbrushing straight out of the bottle. The "advance" range can be hand brushed or thinned at 1:1 with thinners.

    All of them are true acrylic laquers... not the soft and pliable psuedo acrylic that Tamiya use... I have found it leaves fingerprint imprints in it even after weeks of pulling down - SMS has not done this.

    Further, top coating with 2K "ultra clear".. simply stunning... make it as "deep" as you wish.. or just a light coat to maintain a more lifelike finish.

    Ok.. think that covers the Elva's... great model - looking forward to seeing them do some laps. "Elvis" is a shelf queen.. it won't see a track but join company with a very small number of others that I want to keep as collector cars.... one of the A9-X's is on this shelf as well..... lead by six laps, and set the track record on the last lap of the 1,000 km race - what a weapon!

    frats,

    Rosco

     

     

    • Like 1

  12. Hi folk,

    about time I put some posts up on some models I've now finished.

    I purchased the Thunderslot McLaren Elva of Elvis Presley, Bruce McLaren, Graham Hill some time back - and fell in love with it.

    I ordered two white kits and decided I'd start playing with pearl paints from SMS.. first time for me.

    I was able to reference the finished factory model for reference - and decided I'd follow the trim lines for both my models.

    I have found that building two of anything at the same time produces a "poor relation" and one which enjoys the benefit of practice... I have done this with scratch building locomotives and rolling stock.

    The kit went together really well and I am very impressed .. but, it needed some argy bargy to get some of the parts to fit... with a bit of scraping/cajoling/sanding until they all sat down and played nicely together.. 

    The first one, I bought some SMS "pearl grape" some time back.. and it went without thought to use it on one of these two... I chose "inca gold" for the trim colour.... 

    The second one, I found a lovely pearl light blue called "ice blue"... I could not find anything close to what I wanted for the darker colour.. so, mixed up one of my own using SMS again... I used ice blue, black and some VR blue to get the darker pearl colour I wanted.. and am so happy with it, I will use it again when opportunity arises.. I really like the combination of bringing these two "ice blue" base colours together.. see what you think...

     

    IMG-2177.jpg

     

    IMG-2176.jpg

     

    IMG-2179.jpg

     

    IMG-2175.jpg

     

    IMG-2178.jpg

     

     

    I have the order back to front .. 

    This was my first of the two builds.... "purple grape" with "inca gold" ... and note the longer ram tubes.

    With both models, I used the trim colour for the driver's helmet and wheel inserts.

    I used clear green for the driver's goggles with "purple".. and kept with the blue theme for clear blue for those of "blue"... 

    Here's purple - so far, only one vote for "purple".. "blue" seems to be winning this almost outright... your thoughts?

     

    IMG-2180.jpg

     

    IMG-2182.jpg

     

    IMG-2181.jpg

     

    I'll have a few more posts to put up... I have been a bit slack in posting up my work..

    I have completed a white kit "Mr Slotcar" F1 GTR McLaren in a "colour shift" SMS called "Black hole".. very impressed.

    Also, there has been a Thunderslot white kit of a Lola T70 mk 3.

    I have six new NSR models and six Revo slot ones... only one of these 12 has been a white kit - a Porsche 911 GT-2 (for my daughter)... we are making up a colour scheme for that using SMS paints... based on "spearmint green" pearl and "clear aqua".. I have thrown some "teal" into that to get the contrasting darker colour... report and pix as I work through this one.

    Further, I do not like my models "sitting" on their tyres. Every one I have (nearly 70, maybe more) - I have made platforms for them to sit on.. with the tyres clear.

    The Revo cars have gone one further, and I am making up wooden floors for the boxes - I do not like the factory supplied cardboard base... 

    My wooden floors are made from 7 mm ply and routed out where tyres/motor and guide foul.... the floor is elevated by some 5 mm Tasmanian Oak quad..

    Might do a report on this as well .... some time, if anyone is interested..

     

    Ok... just thought it time to put these up... they were completed a couple of weeks back... none of my new cars have seen a track yet.. maybe in just under two weeks - our usual annual set up here for Bathurst (late this year).

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Upvote 1

  13. Ok folk,

    bump.... been a while on this thread.

    Cooper #2 returned from this year's Tasman Cup proxy series.. didn't get a podium, but was awarded the John Smedley constructors award... chuffed.

    Sadly, there is quite a bit of paint damage - not down to running in the series, but issues with Tamiya surfacer/primer.

    It showed up a lots of lateral cracks across the body - I believed it may have been the Humbrol cleer cote (note spelling), but such was not the case.

    I started rubbing it down and it wasn't long before I found that the issue was deep... way deep - at primer level. The Tamiya colour coats were fine - but the primer fragmented below them... the cracks making their way to the top.... 

    I have now rubbed back the body to bare resin and am now using SMS paints... so far, three coats of white primer/surfacer and two rub backs... 

    I have airbrushed a mix of three different SMS paint colours to get the gold of Tamiya.. and are pretty happy with it. 

    I ended up using a mix of Inca Gold, Rich Gold, Super Silver and some Yellow to get as close as I could to Tamiya Titan Gold.. 

    I'll use SMS white this time and finally overcoat everything with SMS 2K Ultra Clear.... that stuff is simply amazing - such depth and flow-out.

     

    Ok, will have some pix soon... big job, it was easier the first time around without the driver, cockpit and windshield in situ..

    As rubbed back to resin...

     

    IMG-2183.jpg

     

    IMG-2184.jpg

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  14. Hi Bram,

    I've been using one of these, or something that looks identical for quite a few years now - only suggestion I have is to put some teflon lube into the hand end bearing... makes it a lot more comfortable when doing those pesky holes into brass and the like..

     

    Mine didn't come with drill bits - $7 - for the lot, what a bargain. Your LHS will charge you more than that for just a couple of the drill bits..

    Whilst we're on the subject, if you have a Dremel - get the three jaw chuck for that too... Bunnings have them for around $24... an invaluable aid for fitting bits to a Dremel...saves messing around with spanners and different collet sizes...

    frats,

    Rosco


  15. Ditto Shaynus - it's not necessarily any "point" that we do this... it's all of them... achievment, satisfaction, creation, individuality... but most importantly - experience, and with that comes ability....

    Mistakes - think of them positively... unless you make them, you will be very much the lesser in knowledge... 

    Progressing beautifully - it will come to life when fully assembled and those colours go down to reveal the reality...

    frats,

    Rosco


  16. Thanks Grant,

    bit messy, tended to scatter stuff all over the place when I was turning wheels on the lathe... 

    This thread should allow me to move to and fro over time.. 

    frats,

    Rosco


  17. You have a lear jet?... the domestic inter-island (NZ to Oz) carriers take three hours... 

    Yes, chase down your local hobby store (LHS).. you might find they carry the range of Premium paints.. I'm not sure that Scott has begun to ship internationally yet.. but I'm certain he will ship to customers in other countries..

    I ned to know if you are using an airbrush or are hand painting using a hair brush?.. 

    My guess is that you are hand painting - hence the need to flow out enamel paint... is this correct?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  18. Hi folk,

    I vaguely recall having started a thread on this paint - but can't find it using the search engine... 

    I have been swamping an OP's thread on enamel retarder and will start the discussion here in a thread of its own.

    I have been using SMS paints for some time now - I have found them to be exceptional as they are supplied - the premium range is pre-thinned and good to go after giving a good mix up.... 

    I use a number of Badger airbrushes - all gravity fed and my current preferred one is a Patriot 105 with a large cup.... I can spray SMS Premium paints at around the 10 - 12 psi.... the brush allows me to do fine detail work at a slightly lower pressure, but I find 10 - 12 psi is good for broad coverage and will "gloss up" after a few very light mist coats to etch into the primer or previously sprayed top coats which have been rubbed down.

    SMS has been developed by a fellow modeler - he has a page on Facebook and I am really plussed that he responds quickly to any discussion or questions raised concerning his products or their use.

    The paint is simply superb and I cannot recommend highly enough that members should souce this great product out and at least give one bottle a try... 

    Unlike Tamiya, this paint will cure out quickly and I have found it does not leave unwanted finger marks after handling... which I have had great disappointment with in the Tamiya acrylic range.

    At the start of SMS home page, Scott goes into a great depth to explain what a true acrylic lacquer is... 

    He has recently opened up a factory and expanded the business... I have mailed him hoping that he will not sell out to a corporate magnate, nor will allow this great business to fold under purchase by an international company (like so many other Oz great products/inventions have).. he assures me, SMS will remain in its own right until he takes his last breath.

    Folk here are going to ask - "can the paint be hand brushed?"... well, the premium range is not intended for hand painting.... but I have had limited success with it.

    SMS now offer a second range, which is much thicker and dedicated to hand brush painting.. it is only available at retailers and that in on the proviso that they stock this latter range... so, if you want the brushable version - go pester you LHS... 

    You can order the premium range on line and SMS will ship it to you.

    The "Ultra Clear" kit comes with four bottles... two of the part A, one part B and a bottle of thinners.... mix ratio is 20 parts A, 10 parts B and 3 parts (10% of final) thinners.

    I have found this to be a most wonderful and satisfying top coat. It results in a rock hard yet flexible finish - with a depth that has to be seen to be believed - however, be warned... it's 2 pack (2K) and contains iso-cyanate.. very nasty stuff.... full protective gear must be worn and I would suggest the further use of a small easily constructed spray booth with some exhaust fans... I don't know if I have put up a thread on a simply spray booth that I made up and now use for airbrushing - works a treat.

     

    So folk, happy to answer further questions on this great Oz product.. I will give a report on applying Ultra Clear over Patto's decals and also over Molotow chrome when I do some testing... so far, very good over previously floor polish coated of the above...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  19. Oldskool 62,

    with the LJ Torana I did... but left it sit for months before doing any more work to it - when I found SMS Ultra Clear, I decided to do a very small test of it over the floor polish - and it came up a treat... I then gave the entire body a good coating of it..... over the full body, including Molotow with floor polish, the red acrylic self-mixed paint and the floor polish coated decals... 

    I have not had any satisfaction with using floor polish over Patto's decals..... I cannot get the even coating with high gloss that I prefer..... Ultra Clear affords this.

    I am yet to experiment with Ultra Clear directly over Patto's decals... but have high hopes... 

     

    OP - I'll move future discussion on this to a thread of my own... and we can kick it on from there... 

    Apologies for digressing from your original thread on a retarder for enamel...

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  20. Oops, forgot the pic.

    This model is nowhere near finished - I have "work" to do on those front fender vents.. but, the body is now coated with a generous coat of Ultra Clear... 

    The chassis is done, so too the wheel inserts. 

    I simply have too many models on the workbench at present - I completed a "Mr. Slotcar" McLaren M6A this evening - in a "colour shift" SMS paint called "Black Hole".. and overcoated it with Ultra Clear.. it has come up a treat... report later in one of my own threads... 

    I have yet to sort out an interior for the LJ - and fit my hand made brass grille... headlights and a few adornments - it's really not that far off, but too many other models are screaming at me for attention... 

    You can see the Molotow on the bumpers... it was a little dulled prior to coating Ultra Clear over it.... but it certainly didn't lose any more .. I'm keen to try it on the freshly Molotow painted parts I have curing out... 

    The pic does not do the gloss and depth of the clear coat justice... and it is rock hard, yet the body can flex... I believe this to be a perfect medium for slot cars... only danger is - you have to dress up like an astronaut before you spray... I made a spray booth with three small computer fans some time back, and have a hose at the rear which vents the nasty stuff outside the garage - where I do most of my airbrushing... 

     

     

    Apologies once again to the OP for the digression... 

     

    LJ pic..

     

    IMG-2160.jpg

     

    frats,

    Rosco

    • Like 1

  21. Hi David,

    I am about to put a bit of a post together on SMS.. although I believe I have previously done this when first I found them....

    So far, I'm really impressed with the range that I have thus far purchased and used - the Ultra Clear 2K is probably the standout of any clear coat I have used in all my hobbies and interests.... it simply glosses up to a magnificent depth.. and a clarity that has to be seen to be believed.

    I have not applied it directly over Patto's decals yet.. but have overcoated previously Pascoe's floor polish ones with absolutely no degradation.

    My little XU-1 Torana (see below) is an example... 

    Patto's decals are exacting, the black leaves a little to be desired - whatever he is printing large areas of it with leaves a "pattern"... you may be able to pick this out.

    In the pic below, you can see a generous coat of Ultra Clear over the entire model.. including a mix ot Tamiya red and some others that i had to use to get the red I wanted.... 

    The issue I have found with Tamiya is that it remains "printable".. and even after months, any pressing of your fingers into a really even and gloss surface will result in them being imbedded into the finish... 

    I over coated the entire model with Ultra Clear and it is rock solid... Scott tells us that it is either "sandable" or can be polished out after 24 hours at 24C... I left mine three days and am currently polishing out some dust and other marks... the stuff is absolutely rock hard - even with Tamiya underneath.. 

    I will also report, that I have found it works a treat on Molotow chrome... and I have coated many small parts which have been sitting for 4 moths - the coating of Ultra Clear has not dulled nor reduced the mirror finish in those parts... I have another batch of Molotow parts curing out and will over-coat those in a week's time.. maybe a fortnight... I am really hoping I can preserve that great mirror chrome that Molotow produces... if Ultra Clear will do this - I believe I may have stumbled onto something which will be used exclusively for chrome parts on our slot cars which cop an awful lot of abuse... 

    Back to the OP (apologies for swamping)... I am yet to learn of any way to slow enamel paint down from drying - the blasted stuff will not dry quick enough for me... it is one of the slowest drying/curing paints I have used... I believe a thinner may be what you seek .. for it to flow out better, but of course - this will demand multiple coats and possibly some "keying" in between them - enamel does not stick well to gloss (except glass - which has always been a paradox for me)...... enamel will not "fuse" into previous coats - so, must be given a "keying" (sanding) of the surface for it to get a grip... or it will chip/peel/flake.. and this is more likely with our slot car hobby... 

    Will update my SMS thread - or create one if I haven't yet done so... this SMS paint is simply amazing, and I would urge everyone who airbrushes to at least try a bottle.. I believe it will change you choice in paints..

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  22. Hi Lotus 24 - I'm sorry but I can't answer your question - I am not in love with Enamels... nor Tamiya acrylics.

    I have to ask, why do you want a retarder for Enamel?... it is slow drying at the best of times.

    Perhaps you seek a "leveller"?... something which will allow the paint to flow out better... 

    Enamel thinners will do this, but at the risk of compromising the very hard wearing effect of enamel.

     

    If I were to suggest an alternative - taek a peek at SMS paints... made here in Oz... 

    Scott is a fellow modeller, and set up the business to satisfy the needs of "local" market... which he has done more than successfully.

    He has recently released a new range, which is brushable... or can be thinned down for airbrush use.

    His "premium" range of airbrush paints are to behold - they are simply brilliant to use, and hard wearing... as opposed to Tamiya acrylic, which I find I can still imprint fingerprints into a well finished surface months after painting... such is not the case with SMS..

    If you are looking for a very hard wearing clear coat - nothing comes close to his "Ultra-Clear" 2K kit... but, be warned - this stuff is iso-cyanate - exactly the same as the auto shops used to use.... it's brilliant paint, and is almost diamond hard - yet flexible... ideal for our application. It is only this "Ultra clear" which is 2K... the rest is very similar to automotive acrylic... 

     

    Further, on his website - he explains the correct term of relevant types of paint... and it is clearly evident that his term "acrylic lacquer" is correct.... as opposed to Tamiya "acrylic" which is quite different.

    Let me know if I can suggest an answer to your retarder issue.... me? SMS.... I have boxes of Tamiya and other brands which will more than likely go into some dark corner storage space and I'll forget I have them.... 

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  23. Thanks Bram,

    I haven't run any of my new cars yet.... no track.

    Normally, I spend a couple of hours setting up an 12.5 metre layout on the Bathurst weekend - looking forward to that so I can finally get to play with some new toys....

    I have a fairly good understanding on how all the Slot-It GT-40's go.. it will be good to compare how this NSR one does, and yes - it has a slightly smaller motor than the other NSR's... only 165g/cm torque, but still up at 21.5 k... 

     

    I'm starting to take a bit of notice of torque specs lately.... gives me something to work on with regards final weight of a model... rpms, I relate to gearing.

    I'm guessing this is what others do...?

     

    frats,

    Rosco


  24. Hi folk,

    wow, have I hit the deck running - seven cars lined up on my workbench all demanding they get closer to completion.. and another three to come - what have I done?

    Whilst we were up north, I ordered an NSR GT40 mk 2... I am very impressed with NSR models, and I expect there will be more to come... 

    I had a good look at how it was set up ex factory, and something just wasn't right - I could not get module/chassis float when the chassis was fitted to the body, but it was fine on the bench minus body.

    I took a very close look for anything which may have been fouling - and sadly, NSR have made the exact same mistake that I suffered with all my Slot-It GT40's... that blasted plastic engine and intake manifold - it fouls the motor pod.. 

    IMG-2147.jpg

    As you can see in the pic above, the tab melt method of fitting components did not allow much room to decrease the depth of the plastic engine/intake... 

    There certainly wasn't enough clearance to be gained by simply chomping into the body of it... so, my plan was to remove it and do some trimming - then fit it further up into the body...

     

    Another area which needed attention was the power leads to the motor - they were first point of contact between the pod and the body.... I de-soldered and re-fitted them so that the leads and terminal were not proud of the motor body... 

     

    IMG-2150.jpg

     

     

    We can see in the pic below, that the factory placement sits very low in the body - and this fouls the chassis motor and pod... 

     

    IMG-2149.jpg

    In the pic below, we can see that I have attacked the plastic severely, just barely avoiding breaking through to what will be visible through the rear window of the model.

    I have also cut away the front mount and opted to fit it flush with the body cowl, rather than have it mounted underneath - this combination gave me sufficient clearance for the motor and pod to float within the adjustment I have set this model up with...

    IMG-2152.jpg

     

    So, here we have the side-one pic with motor fitted... and if you compare the first pic to this one - you'll note that a considerable amount of adding clearance needed to be emplaced... 

     

     

    IMG-2153.jpg

     

    So, with a bit of work adjusting float and truing in the tyres... this model is pretty much good to go - it did need a bit of work but I believe it will be one of the best performing GT-40's that I have... the bottom dwellers are the two Scalextric ones I purchased when I re-entered the hobby seven or eight years back... what was I thinking - a second hand "mint" GT-40 I "won" at auction... and paid $85 delivered from W.A....... Scalextric - it has never run correctly, nor did the one I bought direct from a retailer shortly after... then - I found Slot-It, and so commenced a long affair with collecting SI GT40's... eventually building a white kit one that I call "Godzilla" - almost impossible to drive - huge motor, very low gearing... I've learned a bit since way back then.... 

     

    Ok... one down - 9 to go.

     

    Currently on the bench are three NSR 86/89 F1's, two NSR Moslers, a Mr Slotcar McLaren M6A, two T/slot McLaren Elva's, a T/Slot Lola T70, a Revo-Slot Porsche 911 GT-2 white kit, two Revo Porsche 911 GT2's, a Revo Dodge viper and of course - work continues on the LJ XU-1 build.. it has to be completed before Bathurst next year - the 50th anniversary of when PB took it over the finish line to claim his first Bathurst in 1972..

    Ok, guess I'm back....

    frats,

    Rosco

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