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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. I'm pretty much in the same boat this year, Terry - committments that have taken priority will sadly prevent me from entering the Tasman Cup proxy for a little while... However, my entries in the past have all be successfully accomplished without either a home track or access to someone else's..... I was able to send my entries off without the model ever moving any further than the length of a standard "D" size Scalextric piece of track. The only occasion this differed, was at my debut into the TC... when Stubbo was kind enough to invite me to test run my first model on his track... since then, it's been a case of doing my best setting a model up on both a set-up plate and one D length of track..... for the model not to bring shame itself and finish the series was more than enough satisfaction... thus far, I have had great success.... So, don't sell yourself short in the belief that it is essential to have access to a track for entry purposes - if you are satisfied that the model should perform adequately, there isn't really any practical reason that it can't be entered..... I suppose, I'm a bit hypocritical in this in that I probably have a model I can enter - but at present, I simply cannot bring one up to a level that I would be comfortable with in sending it off....... and cause concern to those who it may be forced to tolerate it.... frats, Rosco
  2. Nicely done, Terry..... will look great amongst the flock of competitors, or should I say - even greater.... frats, Rosco
  3. rosco01

    slot it Lola B12/80

    Thanks Tony, yes, I guess I'm the proud owner of yet more spare parts..... maybe they were part of the casting fret that shared common parts in another model.... I'm stumped with where two of them go - scoured the drawings you gave me the link for and simply couldn't see anything that looked like them. Main thing is, all the parts which were shown were in my kit..... so, I guess I really have nothig to grumble about - other than confusion. frats, Rosco
  4. rosco01

    slot it Lola B12/80

    Thanks Tony, very helpful... however, there are two parts which look like they are some form of internal baffle which goes inside the side intakes.... or something similar. They are "S" curved and have holes/tangs/tabs/pins which are definitely meant to fit somewhere in the body - I have searched and searched, but cannot locate where they should be fitted... Secondly, where did you get the link from?... I have never found any of the Slot-It white kit diagrams for assembly... managed to get the model finished, but this one has me stumped.... much appreciated for you kind help, frats, Rosco
  5. rosco01

    slot it Lola B12/80

    Hi folk, I bought a Slot It Lola B12/80 white kit for my son - he had the option of me making up any car he wanted... and he chose this one.... grrrrrr Great looking model, and from what I have read - it performs well.... but - I'm in strife with assembling the body. There are parts that I have stretched my brain trying to work out where they fit or the orientation of them... the major piece are easy, but there are some which I have no idea about... If anyone has assembled one of these kits - you have my ears... and greatest attention. frats, Rosco
  6. Looks schmick, Chris - your eye for attention to detail is amazing... and your ability to replicate it - even more so. frats, Rosco
  7. You certainly have, Terry.... can't wait to see the finished model... and it running in the series. frats, Rosco
  8. nice work, Terry...... now for the nuts and bolts.... frats, Rosco
  9. Thanks fella's. I was going to spray the inserts in SMS "Cold - Hyperchrome" over SMS "Jet Black" gloss - this comes up the closest I've ever seen to chrome - including the German Molotow.... and - the SMS version can be clear coated with their water based clear. I have ditched that plan and after looking at some pix note that the Mini-Lite wheels on these cars and also the larger ones for MGB - were a bright satin finish aluminium... which is my new plan... To add a bit more to planned work on the chassis - Scalextric have taken a different approach to the front axle and guide arrangement for this car. The model does not conform to proto-type in that it is rear wheel drive and the rubbish fitting of nylon bushes in holes that are way too big for them results in the axle "flopping" up and down, fore and aft on both sides... I have plans for that. The front is entirely different to what I have seen before. I expect, due to the short length of the body and the necessary low detail of the radiator grille plus narrow width - they have done a little work on re-designing an axle/guide arrangement. I'm not a racer - and have little understanding of how this altered front end will run... but, aesthetically - it works... there isn't any ugly guide protruding out of the front and cutting away the lovely detail of the front of this little model. What they have done is to fit the guide pivot almost centre of where the axle would have run..... but, they have fitted two short "stub" axles on which the plastic wheels have been pressed on over knurling of the axle.... My intention, is to make a similar arrangement that I used with the T-53 Cooper chassis I built - but instead of using a common axle which was free to rotate, and wheels which were independently free to rotate on that - I will use two short stub axles with a similar arrangement. I tap into the end of some Slot-It hollow tube hardened steel axles with a 10 BA thread... then fit a countesunk 10 BA screw. The countersink head runs inside a similar countersunk bore I make in the end of the wheel using a small centering drill. This allows me to push the insert in afterwards. To fit this to the chassis, with the T-53's - I soldered in a block to the centre of the chassis and drilled it for the axle to pass through - then drilled a vertical hole through this block and tapped it with an M2 thread..... Allowing me to "lock" the axle when it was necessary to remove the wheels.... this works very well.... Drawing from that, I intend to do similar with the Mini - the factory stub axles run inside two moulded bosses in the plastic.... the inner one controls movement of a flange on the end of the axle - the outer one simply aligns the stub so the wheel runs true (well, that was their plan - but again - there's a lot of slop in there). I can make use of the inner plastic boss of the chassis - and will drill down vertically and tap it M2.... with this little car, my "floating" axle won't apply - but, I can fit washers/shims between the outer boss and the hub of the wheel...... hence my decision to make the hub diameter of my wheels 5 mm.... to match the size of shims and washers I have in stock. The M2 screw will hold the stub axle captive.. which will also allow me to position the track of the wheel on both sides. Further, in the use of stub axles - it also affords me opportunity to mess around with camber - it may very well be that I trial ability to camber the angle of the tyre on the track... with a fractional raised outer which I believe will sit fully on corners, yet in a straight line - reduced drag when the small footprint of the inner tyre diameter should produce less drag. I'd love to build a piano wire/brass chassis for one of these two - and stack it up with some good running gear - but, as the beginning of this thread explains - I am only building two so they can be used in competition with each other - and I pretty much want them both at a common performance level..... frats, Rosco It will be an "interesting" build - something that I have not yet done..... stub axles - let's see how it goes....
  10. HI folk, my latest "kitbash" are stripping and re-building/painting two 1965 Mini Coopers. I had one of the original Scalextric ones in green with a beige interior and front wheel drive back in the mid '60's.... dog of a thing, tiny open frame motor and issues with getting the braid to sit on the rails without the tyres getting grip on the track... I practically destroyed it using "kid's" tools (pliers, screwdrivers and other very coarse and crude implements)... and it ended up as a parts body and what was left of the chassis.... pity, it would be a collector's item now. I have been making cars for each member of my family, and thus far have produced a number of models that I actually liked... I asked each one which car they wanted - it it was available, I'd model it for them. We've had 911 Porches, a Dodge Viper, a McLaren and my latest request was for (above anything else he could have asked for) - a Mini Cooper.... I was shocked - it certainly wouldn't have been my choice! not if the first one I had was anything to go on... Knowing he'd have trouble keeping up with the rest of the family on the track, I took sympathy - and ordered two..... the other one so that it could be placed as dedicated competition on a level playing field..... so, it now looks as if I'm paying attention to two models that I really don't want to attack yet..... Both of them came in what I consider to be "fugly".... silver roof with an annoyingly maroon/red body... some might like it, but not me. For me - the "only" colour these little cars should be is British Racing Green with a white roof..... the other one has been asked to be sprayed SMS Pearl Ice with a silver roof (so, the roof is done for me with that model). I started to strip the first one down - and continue to be disgusted on how these are assembled.... hot soldering iron or something on "fitted" parts.... which need to be ground out to remove them.... and stored. I got down to the bare body, but it was a lot of work - some of the ornaments are tiny, and tedious work.... lights, badges, bumpers... the window comes away in two parts... The interior is a shocker - heavy as all heck, but - the dash is very detailed and a credit to the person responsible for tooling it up. I tried all sorts of solvents that were plastic safe to remove the paint..... and it took ages. From metho, brake fluid and SMS paint remover... I had to work and work to get the blasted red paint off.... the silver came away very easily - so, if you have one of these models, you might like to clear coat it with something like SMS Ultra Clear 2K... I used SMS etch primer, then white primer on the red plastic substrate of the model.... blocked the white primer back - and sprayed SMS white .... the red plastic "leached" through.... so, I had to block back again and spraye my favourite SMS grey primer on a little thicker - blocked down and sprayed SMS white top coats.... all good. For the lower body, I used SMS black primer over the etch.... and two generous coats of SMS BRG.... it came up a treat. I used Tamiya masking tape laid down on a sheet of glass then cut using a sharp scalpel.... giving me very sharp lines... the pix below do not do justice - they look terrible, but I am yet to block down the clear coat.... which will remove the over-spray of the masks. Now - for the "trouble" part of the build.... the chassis. Simply put - it's crap...... there is so much slop in the nylon rear axle mounts that they "float" around in it... the axles seem to be aluminum, but worse - the wheels have been pressed onto knurling ..... grrrr. Removing wheels from knurled axles - good luck. I decided that I'd bite the bullet here and turn some aluminium wheels..... the smallest I have ever attempted. Further, I decided (as I have done with other models with plastic wheels) I'd make a Pinkysil mould of the wheels, and turn down the castings from them to make inserts for the aluminium wheels.... My first attempt at turning such a small wheel was a failure - I destroyed all my good work getting the step and rim to spec when I tried to use my favourite tool for boring out the inside of the wheel for the insert.... I made up another boring tool by grinding yet another tungsten carbide cheapy down.... and went again - this time with success. The mould and casts from it went really well.... I managed to get the second wheel done as I wanted, and am now on #3 (of 9, #1 was discarded). With #3, I am changing my procudure... I set up the aluminium stock in the Mill and drill my grub screw hole to just short of where the axle will pass through. I then tap this hole to M2 and remove it for the lathe. I fit up the milled rod into the lathe and turn down the O.D. then the outer rim - and then drill the axle hole. Next I hand drill the remainder of the grub hole and tap it..... this avoids attempting to tap a hole half way between the inner rim diameter and the hub..... which tended to throw the tap to one side and go in "cocked". Next... I bore the recess out of the front for the insert.... And then turn down the inner rim and finally hub.... and part it away from the stock rod. The casting from my Pinkysil mould is then fitted up into the micro lathe I have inside the house - and I turn down casting to make a hub. I reverse the cast and fit the hub into the lathe.. and turn down the casting to match the diameter with that of the recess in the aluminium wheel.... finally, I part the cast off to the width of the recess in the wheel... and it becomes a press fit into the wheel..... Ok, some pix. I love the wheels that Scalextric have produced for this model - they are replica Mini Lite (unless told otherwise) and the "hands" look great. The detail also includes nuts, wheel mount nut and believe it or not! a valve stem... So, here is wheel #2... MJk produce their high quality tyres for these wheels.... ok hope pix came through.... Work continues... turning 8 wheels and inserts. frats, Rosco
  11. Thanks Chris - I have a dislike for plastic/nylon/delrin gears - from my model railway experience. Another factor, which I may throw into you list of postives for ergal - oil..... I have suffered many locomotive gearboxes "spliting" the axle bore of which the axle gear is part of the moulding... with the devastating result that the gearbox "jumps". There has been much talk over the years of what oils to use for plastic... and some oil manufacturers state adamantly that their oil will not affect plastic. I beg to differ - some of the gears I have used dedicated to such oils have suffered - but so far, I am unable to find a model railway supplier who stocks brass or ergal axle tubed gears... the greater difficulty being - electrical contact between the two sides of the axle... it is mandatory that the two wheel sets on each side of the bogie are isolated - much akin to that of our slot car guide braid.... There are a number of greases which I have found useful, but they are heavy compared to light oil - and also attract dirt..... the very nature of tyres etc running on a slot car track is almost impossible to run dirt free.... unlike locomotive gearboxes which run a nickel on nickel contact and are usually enclosed.... I will track down some ergal spurs and quality brass pinions... and let's see how the repair/replacement stack up... I went on line again today searching for local suppliers of Mr Slotcar here in Oz - and came up empty handed... thanks again, Chris.. frats, Rosco
  12. Wow, this is great Chris - I'm a victim for detail such as this - my ignorance simply demonstrates my lack of knowledge and understanding. I now have something to work with, and can set in place such formulae when deciding on pinion/spur combinations.... to match a given ratio. Of course, I may never get the sizes in both - but I should be able to get close.. Issues with small tyres/large spurs etc - well, that has to play out as part of the process.... I am intrigued to learn that I should be able to get an almost silent mesh - and hopefully, this is achievable using Ergal? It may have passed your desk un-noticed, but I asked of the benefits of Ergal over nylon/plastic/Delrin etc. etc.... lightweight is my belief, and rigidity plus long life (if maintained). Thanks again, I'll add your comments to my "data" folder in slot cars - you are rapidly becoming the prominant author and source... frats, Rosco
  13. Forgot to ask, Chris - Ergal spurs, are they noisier? and if I may - the advantages over plastic/nylon teeth, other than holding shape and I expect longevity in use? frats, Rosco
  14. Thanks yet once again, Chris - you have showered me with factual information that I have absolutely no knowledge base in, many thanks. From what I have been able to find, none of the Mr Slotcar service parts are stocked by outlets here in Oz..... I am happy (and would be obliged for correction) to learn otherwise. I have quite a number of straight cut spurs and a number of differing sizes of pinions - with your information, I'll juggle some around until I get a match that both fits - and meets the ratio of that used by the OEM. Further, I have some pinions and spurs coming this week - from what I can see, those spurs are straight cut. I have pondered on a slot car manufacturer attempting to fit hypoid gears - as used in differentials in 1:1 scale cars. They should be quieter, but I suspect may cause a degree of drag within the mesh..... not to mention the expense of tooling up and the precision necessary for efficient operation.. your thoughts? thanks again, very much appreciated for your requested information and reply... frats, Rosco
  15. Thanks Espsix..... will do. I have some Plafit on order... but will look at BRM. Maybe, this is where they source them from - from memory, BRM and Revo are related. frats, Rosco
  16. Thanks Den, I have ordered two sets of Plafit spur gears and one 4 pack of nylon pinions - will post here when they arrive and have been fitted. I suspect the model runs a little quieter with both nylon spur and pinion - my Jagermeiser GT-2 911 Porsche is very, very noisy - I have fitted silicone insulating washers under the heads of the body mount screws, a light smearing of Slot-It grease to all faces of the floating chassis/pod contact plates and posts and ensured that all burrs were removed from all holes - as a You Tube video of some 1 hour 34 min and another suggested. Interestingly, in the long vid - they made mention of replacing the Revo pinion for a quieter mesh... but did not state which pinion they used.... As for Mr Slotcar GT-1 McLaren - it's a lovely model...body wise and was a treat to assemble and paint (in SMS colour-shift "Black Hole") but the mech and availability of spare parts has set a firm intention that this is the last Mr Slotcar model I will ever purchase. If I cannot purchase a replacement spur for the McLaren - I'll more than likely attempt to fit/modify something that will fit in the narrow chassis slot where the spur gear runs in the chassis - I don't, at this stage - want to compromise the chassis by breaking away the area and kit-bashing something around a spur from some other manufacturer.... Thanks, Den for your reply - it is comforting to note that the Plafit spur and pinion are a successful replacement for Revo... My other Revo (five) models all run fine - it's just this one which has a "wonky" spur... and I'm a little shocked that Revo let it past their QC. - Flyslot, certainly - I have issues with that brand.... but Revo?.... I had greater faith that a manufacturer in the higher bracket would be beyond the (excuse any attributed denigration - aimed at manufacturer, not employees) "sheltered workshop" assembly line...... frats, Rosco
  17. Thanks Mt.P... Werner has been in touch, he doesn't have 33T - but we are in discussion with picking up both 32T and 34T... one will fit in just nicely. As for Mr. Slotcar and Revo models, this goes against the well-worn adage of "you get what you pay for"... Will let you know how I go with Ace frats, Rosco
  18. Ace currently out of stock - they have spurs for all other numbers of teeth but 33 at present... Mr Slotcar not listing them as I took a peek online... frats, Rosco
  19. you ripper, Mt P... thanks for that - I'll pick up a bunch of them. Are they available in Ergal? or anything other than nylon gearwheel? frats, Rosco
  20. Thanks Shaynus... yes, Revo took that direction - which made the fitting of ball bearings to the front and rear axle a lot easier.... I have a lathe which I can very accurately bore out the 3/32" hub of a slot it spur to 3.0 mm... but, until I persue all other options of obtaining replacements for this issue - I'm hesitant to throw one of my Slot-It Ergal gears under the bus if they prove to be incompatible... There is adjustment in the Revo chassis to move the motor fore/aft and also it can be shimmed out in the mount if necessary - I'm fairly confident that I can effect a replacement... an awful lot easier than the Mr Slotcar chassis in which there is very little adjustment available, and the blasted chassis has a narrow opening for the spur to run within... I don't believe I'll ever consider purchase of another Mr Slotcar model... no spare parts listed in the directory of my two main suppliers... great body, and the model was very fast before that split in the spur came into play..... such a critical component - and one which surely, the manufacturer would have appreciated needed to be replaced in service... I might be missing something - but I just don't get this.... frats, Rosco
  21. Thanks Tony, the issues are sitting with Armchair at present.... they may be able to supply me with a spur for the Mr Slotcar McLaren... but, if I could find an Ergal one from another manufacturer - I wouldn't hesitate. As for the Revo GT-2 Porsche... I might just have to bite the bullet and order a replacement. Sadly, as far as I can find - Revo only provide the one set of anglewinder pinion and spur gears.... universal fit to all their models - happy to be advised otherwise. Yes, I have a number of Slot-It sidewinder spur gears of differing ratios.... it wouldn't take long to fit one up and mesh it to a matched pinion... the ones I have are all Ergal.. and they will bed in.... eventually. I find this particularly annoying, that manufacturers in the upper eshalon of price bracket - are extremely short sighted in supply of parts, and those parts being fundamental and necessary to long term running of their models... l Maybe, it's just the retail outlets we are limited to here in Oz... I am yet to look beyond our shores for other suppliers - if those parts actually exist. thanks for your reply, frats, Rosco
  22. Hi folk, my turn to ask some questions of the forum who have a much more thorough and familiar understanding of things than I. I purchased a "Mr Slotcar" F1 GTR McLaren white kit some time back, and have run into trouble with the gears. A split occurred in the nylon gear part of the spur... and eventually, the pinion chewed out one of the teeth. This car had done almost nothing until it was placed on the track for a bit of a bedding in... I did not notice the split in the gear when setting it up, nor truing the tyres etc. etc... I'm guessing it may have been a hairline split in manufacture. So, rather than pester Armchair - I looked in vain on line for a replacement - a 29 tooth anglewinder spur gear. I ordered in three of them from Slot-It, including a pair of matching anglewinder pinions... To my disappointment - none of the replacement spur gears will fit.... if you look at the Mr Slotcar spur, the "hub" is located on the opposite side to that of Slot-It... and the bevel as well.... there isn't any way that I can fit the Slot-It gears into the space available in this model... practically no adjustment is possible other than by shimming the motor mount and the usual moving of the pinion.... none of those will allow the Slot-It replacements to fit... So, can some kind person tell me - what manufacturer of spare parts supply Mr Slotcar?.. and, has anyone had similar issues with this manufacturer for spare parts. I am no longer a fan of nylon spur gears... and will more than likely go to Ergal if I can find some that will fit. Another issue - is the Revo-slot Porsche 911 GT-2 that I have. I have four of this model from Revo - but one of them is a problem child... again, this blasted spur gear. 33 teeth with nylon insert... and it is terribly out of true. I have tried to bed it in using the usual method of toothpaste and Brasso, plus some very fine cutting fluid... but it simply won't bed in and is an extremely annoying noisy model on the track. I have fitted silicone insulators between the body/chassis and also coated the floating pod mounts to the chassi with Slot-It grease.... this eased some of the noise, but it is this blasted spur which needs replacing - and I am extremely hesitant to order another with the nylon gear pressed onto an ali hub... I will go Ergal if I can find one to fit. Gripe over - now hoping for some remedial advice and suggestion to purchase replacement gears..... Much appreciated, frats, Rosco
  23. And all that work I did to get PB's as close as I could. Be interesting to note how Scalextric do..... I know this model more closely than almost every other that I have worked on. Still not finished yet, but it's only the figure - by golly, it's tough getting a figure to look like the driver..... nearly there, and we can finally put this one up on the shelf. Mind you, if I'd known two years back that Scalextric were going to release one - I'd have had two years hobby time to spare... Rosco
  24. Thanks Chris - excuse my ignorance.... I didn't know this until you posted the pic...... and yes, I can only imagine how difficult it may have been with the gear stick so close to the wheel..... with gloves on. But, I guess the Mountain had to go to Mohammed - me? - I'd have moved the gear stick.... although, it may have not been possible... Thanks again... frats, Rosco
  25. Offset steering wheel, Chris?
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