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Everything posted by rosco01

  1. Nice work, Mark.... too many people simply pretty much run cars OTB... with very little attention to tuning them. I do like your application of using rubber washers for body mount screws... must source some. Are you still running the Slot-It tyres?... I noted a significant difference when swapping them out for MJK's... as fitted to the half dozen or so GT40's that I have. Another thing that I found got just that little bit more out of it was to "re-learn" the plastic chassis - if it's not perfectly flat.... big job, but makes for a better model - probably equally in aesthetic but also to a lesser degree with performance.... Adjustable front axle position and pod, of course negates much of this - but to begin tuning with a flat and true chassis goes a long way to getting everything to line up square and in a parallel plane. Again - nice work... bet you can't wait for that motor to settle down - easy does it.... first hour or so is just so pivotal on how long it will stay at peak performance during its life... I have retaken the step to running in my motors in a demineralised water bath.... air drying and re-lubing.... only those motors which I can access them..... I have found that it beds in the commutator better, in my opinion... flushing away those early fragments which score and permanently mark the commutator... If I can access the commutator - I also use "naptha" to polish it.. but, it's dangerous stuff and very volatile... hurry up and slow down to do the job... frats, Rosco
  2. Thanks Alan - can you slip me in with the #6 please.... still don't know what I'll build - more than likely another T-53.... low detail version. frats, Rosco
  3. Hi folk, just attacked #2 A9-X bumper.... only thing I will touch on it - then it goes back into the box as a collector. I found a better way of getting the bumper off - but it's delicate work. It saves a lot of hacking, but great care has to be taken - and it has to be done very slowly. I used the finest engraving bit I have with the narrowest shaft... and went in from underneath - between the bumper and the indicator, there is enough room to work the engraver down until the bumper comes free.... It does not hack up the aperture of the model as badly as coming in from the rear of the front.... and gives greater control of how much material it taken away of the aperture. I can now see that the reason all bumpers are fitted pointing to the heavens is due to the mounting rails of the bumper.. the top of them is inclined.... so, it's a bumper design issue - not a body one - one which Scalextric can rectify fairly easily when hopefully, they release the follow up Bathurst winner - and avoid me having to "kit bash" this model for a second season... Pix - all explanatory... much neater aperture created using a very sharp scalpel... the rear... and some styrene card blocks I used MEK to fuse into the bumper for mounting back into the apertures.... When the bumper blocks have fully cured out... I mount it to the body and take some pix to add here... It's not a huge job - fairly easy, really... but - great care has to be taken with that Dremel... I suggest scribing a line with the back of a scalpel blade before attempting the first run with the engraver - it if goes wayward - it can do a lot of damage to the bumper, the indicators or if pushed too far - the headlight assembly... frats, Rosco
  4. Thanks Vinno - I should have avoided asking you the question - apologies.... I went to the Tamiya website.... X20A thinners is acrylic thinners, it's water based. Hence the "A" behind it... no idea what the 20 means... The "X" series of paints are acrylic... and I have used both acrylic and lacquer thinners with them both.... X-20A is propanol/alcohol based (not recommended as a substitute for beer) and hence why it can be used directly on styrene and other sensitive plastics. Lacquer thinner has ethylene glycol monobutyl and methyl isobutyl ketone.... it would be the ketone which would be the most aggressive of these solvents... I'll thin the acrylic (X series) clear coat with X-20A thinner... should be fine.. I can then go over the top with an enamel clearcoat... more than likely the Humbrol enamel clear that I have... it hardens and pulls down very nicely.... frats, rosco
  5. Thanks again, Vinno - I have some of that.... I have two types of Tamiya thinner... "lacquer thinner" and x20-A... no idea what the difference is and it's too long ago since I used either of them to remember.... something is nagging me that I should use the lacquer thinner... I have three large bottles of that, and only one of the X20-A. frats, Rosco
  6. Hi Grant... they will get cleaned whilst cleaning up the airbrush etc..... Hopefully, the fan at rear will extract any spurious paint mist away from the lights...... and model.... Airborne paint particles can settle down on an otherwise good paint job.... more so in an enclosure... so, the fan will hopefully rectify a lot of this. Getting fan speed right will be the challenge - hence the controllable voltage regulator I will build to run it.... the full 12v will be way too much - and probably result in more crud getting sucked in over the front of a job than would be without such a setup... I created a dual fan arrangement for the absorption fridge in the caravan... as an extraction unit - this is where my "idea" for a spray booth came from. I fitted two such fan units in series - and they run fairly sedately... too much air and the evaporator fins simply don't get cooled.... the air is extracted away from them.... slow the fans down, and the entire cabinet is vented... so, with this in mind - and the fresh paint vulnerable to attack from intake - I'll mess around a bit with fan speed.... I positioned the fan intake high up in the chamber.... where mist is likely to "cloud"... this should allow relatively low impact on a model low down in the booth..... I could fit two such fans in series - as in the van fridge rear compartment... but I believe the volume of extraction would be too high... so, I am aiming at just removing what is necessary - rather than effecting a "fan forced" extraction system.... Further - I made the booth large enough so that I could move my hands, airbrush and model around in it without being cramped.... or for larger projects..... as you are very well aware - I am besotted with many differing hobbies... each of them lending these little accessories to each other..... let you know how it goes and further developments once I put it to use.... so far, happy with the lighting components... This is the plan - yet to be put to use... still waiting on fans to arrive.... frats, Rosco
  7. Hi folk, spent most of yesterday making up a little booth to airbrush models in..... out of plywood and some pine framework... It has long been a concern of mine that some of the chemicals I use are probably not good for me, although after some 55 years - and using some of the most harshest of these when a kid... .like model aeroplane dope... in a bedroom with the door and windows closed - it's surprising I'm still here.... However - with failing eyesight, I find that I need plenty of light when airbrushing now - to get satisfactory results.... and I came up with an idea which would lend itself to serve both purposes... lighting and also to vent away the chemicals when airbrushing.... I bought three very bright LED house downlights.. and cut holes in the top and both sides of my booth to fit them..... the results are quite pleasing... lights up the area like the Blackpool illuminations.. very easy to follow a "wet edge" as you apply paint to a model... I cut a hole in the upper rear as well.. and will fit a small computer ball bearing fan (on order)... I'll make up a voltage regulator circuit so that I can control the speed of the fan... enough to vent the fumes, but not enough to draw dust in from the front of the booth - or to draw the fan of paint away.... Some pix.... This is the booth, with a model on a wire frame for size comparison.... you can see the three fitted LED's in this pic. I am currently in the process of refurbing my oldest models... purchased in June of 1970 when I started work at age 15... both Scalextric - a Ferrari P4 and a Lamborghini Muira (C16 and C17). I intend to post a refurb report on these models... with white metal gearboxes.... they are both now great runners.. with original motors in them.. but I have done quite a bit of work to get them to run.... report later.... Booth..... This one gives a pretty good indication of the light within the booth.... the pic was taken in this room of mine, with the light on.... clearly, the room light is no match for that of the booth... And finally - looking inside the booth.... not quite needing sunglasses - but certainly enough light to follow the wet edge around a model when air-brushing... I chose to paint the booth using acrylic house primer/sealer... it is non-gloss and avoids a lot of reflection on the model.... easy to clean and should not attract dust. I have fitted my airbrush holder on the right of the booth... not shown in these pix... Hope this gives folk some ideas.... frats, Rosco
  8. Thanks Vinno.... I've got quite a few extra of Patto's decals that I probably won't use..... I'll have a play with differing things and try to find out what works and what products destroy his decals.... I'm not so fussed about the Marlboro ones for all the Scalextric Torries that I have.. but when it comes to applying these great decal sets (including pin-striping) for the LC and LJ - I want that to go without a hitch.... these models will look amazing if I get the decals right - they are a credit to Patto.... so too, the cast bodies from Munter - although I'll have to chop and change quite a bit to make an LC out of an LJ... but, I'll get there.... I have used Micro sol with model railways - and the stuff pulls down the decal perfectly to fit to shape of the intricate body detail.... like rivets and plates - at 1/87th scale....Micro Set will bring them down further if needed - but I fear Patto's decals won't stand the chemicals in them.. and I don't want to compromise the work he has done in printing them.. I have not used Humbrol decal fix yet... it was recommended to me by my model railway supplier - his telling me that it is no longer possible to get Micro solutions (which it is, I have just purchased enough to see me out in modeling). Thanks for your info on how you have set them.... I can chase up Mr Mark Softer if I can't get either the Micro or Humbol ones to work without Patto's decals suffering.. I have Humbrol Clear Cote, Floquil Glaze or Tamiya clear as options for over-coating decals once they are dry.... I'm not sure which acrylic you refer to - but by what you post - I take it that Tamiya enamel clear will attack them... so, there is an acrylic clear you are using prior to that..... can you tell me which brand that is? Thanks again... frats, Rosco frats, Rosco
  9. Ok folk, "stuff" has arrived and I can continue on the builds..... Hit a hurdle though - paint colour.... Can anyone tell me what the red is that the LJ HDT Torana's were painted in....? please... I have Patto's decal set with the red deleted.. so, this decal set is applied over a red base.... it's much deeper and darker than the later A9-X series... probably more like the L-34, which to me is more of a blood red... If you know what the colour is - and have had success in modeling it - I'd really appreciate what paint and colour you used... My LJ is currently in grey primer - I can just about go ahead now and apply colour... frats, Rosco
  10. Hi..... can you slot me in as an entry please..... I'll try and get a model up for the series... If you get the field of 24 up before closing and I'm nowhere near ready - I"m happy to drop off the list.... but, if we need to fill the field - I'll do my best.... no guarantee that the body will have anywhere near the detail of the previous T-53 though... frats, Rosco
  11. Question without notice..... decals. What are people using with Patto's decals... both in laying them down and settling them in. My Micro Sol and Set have just turned up, but Patto warns of using anything other than water on them.... and a floor polish to seal them in... Appreciate any suggestions.. frats, Rosco
  12. Thanks Vinno..... I'll stick with the factory tyres for a spell... model hasn't hit the track yet... (basically because there isn't one until I put one together".. should be a bit of fun "in the wet" until I get sick of it and go with the MJK's... frats, Rosco
  13. I fly a bit of old timer (funny that) and sport - Gold Wing rated, started aerobatics - but left the sport before I began competition... could do all the "sportsman" pattern and some of the "advanced" - favorite was a three turn spin. Have all models I have built - three from kits, but the entire rest are from plans. Fly fishing - well, you won't have enough time in retirement to learn it..... so, make a start now - nothing too serious, but the earlier you learn to cast - the more you'll enjoy it later on. Can pick up beginner level 6 weight rod/reel/line pretty cheaply these days.... floating line, weight forward.... learning to tie flies... a new world all of its own..... Charlie Craven's book would be the one I'd point you at..... pick that up now and start to appreciate just how easy some of the flies are to tie.... when, why and how to use them.... Like most hobbies - they will extract every Rubel you have.. if you let them...... there is always "more"... and the word "must" seems to be congruous in all of them... slot cars included. We should start another thread, Andrew - Vinno would never have believed his thread could end up with fly fishing in it..... frats, Rosco
  14. Andrew, I don't think there is a conceivable hobby known to man that I haven't had....... and have kept everything..... I flitter into and out of each one as the will takes me... for now, I'm back into slot cars.... but, there are about three on the go at any one time.... The other two at present are r/c and fly fishing... mainly tying flies... Oh, and model railways - they have popped up again after a 20 year absence.... I fly fixed wing, drone and small heli's (mainly indoor with 4 channel heli's).... I was an instructor at the local field... then went dormant for many years, came back into the sport after I found heli's...which were mode 2.... and converted myself to fly fixed wing in mode 2 - best thing ever I did with r/c... it just feels "right"... aileron/elevator on the right stick.. rudder stays the same - but you swap over throttle to the left stick.... In mode 2, you can fly with one arm stuck behind your back.... never messed with modes 3 or 4, but I know of people who have had strokes and lost the use of their right hand.... they use their nose to push up the throttle stick.. and avoid rudder altogether.... some just fly three channel - on the leftt stick and the "nose" for throttle on the right.... works for them. I'm looked at as a martian at our field.... mode 2 - frightens the bejesus out of most of them..... "cack handed" is another term.... but, when I take this laptop down to the field with Pheonix flight sim - and give them a whack at mode 2 - all of them love it.... until someone else comes into the room...... and they go hush about it.... Ok....again - 'nuff from me.... apologies (again and again) to the OP (Vinno). frats, Rosco
  15. Sounds good, Andrew..... I was also considering "flush" fitting the windows and getting rid of that extra weight of the insert up high in the model.... Depends how "robust" you want the model to remain, I guess..... an errant finger from a steward might punch a flush mounted window back in.... but, again - considerable weight from where we don't want it can be chopped out of the model... flush fitting of windows is always a much more appreciative appearance..... In r/c flying of aircraft.. I use a product called "canopy glue".... it remains slightly flexible - yet has considerable strength... I apply many coats of this in small amounts until I get the "fill" I need and also the strength... most of he weight evaporates as the glue dries out... the product is called "Formula 560" made by Pacer.... (USA) clear fast drying bonds canopies and plastic parts to almost anything remains flexible when set I then use Tamiya "rubber black" to fine line it .... which results in a realistic rubber windscreen "rubber".... If I can't get a satisfactory result from the supplied windows insert - I will make up my own... from either cellulose or perspex sheet.. cut exactly to size or maybe a thou undersize to allow for the glue.... I have used a Coke bottle for a rounded front windscreen on a slot car..... my 1970 purchase (at age 15) Scalextric Lamborghini Muira - which I smashed the entire insert.... These bottles have an amazing number of curved option areas.... and are almost indestructible..... and just so cheap. You can polish them with Tamiya plastic compound.... and a calico buffing pad in a Dremel.... good work on your times.. Forgot - I am coming up with another plan....... if you want to get a bit more, replace the front axle.... I like to use Slot-It hollow axles for the faster cars I have.... the wheels are retained using eyelets. What this does, is allows the front wheel to revolve independently of the other one..... you'll find that you can get through corners quicker - no drag from the inside wheel slowing down the outside one.... The downside, is that if you need to fit new tyres - you have to destroy any insert to release the eyelet. In my current LJ/LC Torana build - I'm going to experiment with mounting this axle as two stub axles.... That is, cut the axle ends off - fit the wheels to them (and inserts etc).... then fit the stub axles into a very close fitting tube, or box section... and retain the stub axle using a grub screw through the tube/box..... This way, if I need to "service" the wheel - I can simply undo the grub and withdraw it.... fit both stubs/wheels/tyres to a section of tube and grub them in... then fit the assembly to a tyre truer..... when done, simply re-install to the model using the grubs.... no messing around with inserts and eyelets... they are a permanent fit. All this is yet to be worked out - but, I have a plan.... it should work. OK, gone way too far again... frats, Rosco
  16. Well done, Andrew.... Yes, there's plenty of "fat" in the body which can come out.... especially the interior... it's bulky. An alternative option would be to find a generic thin clear interior to suit... and add the Scalextric roll cage. Have you tried running the model without any interior?... this would give you a bit of a guide as to improving times..... it's a big, heavy and "fat" interior that is fitted to this model... For anything that you do take out of the interior - you can add as ballast down low and out as far as "float" will allow it to be added.... Which MJK tyres did you get?..... I haven't looked yet, because I expected that MJK would not have released them yet... unless it's a duplication from some other model... frats, Rosco
  17. For what it's worth - my suspicion is that the retail available adhesives from LHS's more than likely contain MEK in them... might pay to read the label, these days - I believe they must state what is in the product in a PDS if requested.... frats, Rosco
  18. As I recall, if my memory serves me correctly - the first year I entered the Tasman Cup proxy - Stubbo sent the case of entrants from Melbourne to Hobart....... after 6 days, they had not turned up, he made enquiries and a day later they located them.... in Sydney..... they had gone from Melbourne, to Adelaide, to Perth and then to Sydney.... Apparently, if a "receiving" depot cannot handle the volume - it is sent to the next one which can...... go figure... They did arrive in Hobart - and the series was run without further "detours".... frats, Rosco
  19. Thanks Graeme, as stated, I'm yet to put mine on a track.... but, I believe I've got it set up as best it can be without altering anything... The rear tyres would be the first place I'd go to improve performance - once all axles and wheels were set in the same plane.. i'd be tempted to chuck away the "quick change" guide as well - and fit a Slot-It one... they'd be the two places I'd attack first after setting the car up on a plate.... And the wheels - ditch them and fit aluminium and turn down/extract the great centres from the model and fit.... I simply don't like plastic wheels - I am yet to see many which are actually "centred" on the axle.... sure, we can true them up - but the alignment of the centre of the wheel on the axle is an extreme rarity...... as you will have noted with this model - true the wheels and tyres - then watch, as you dial in some power... the centres of the wheels (bearing caps) run out of true - I have a very keen dislike fo this..... as do many fellow modelers.... it "cheapens" the work we do to set things right.... I am chuffed with Slot-It wheels... both the ali and also their plastic - I ought to be getting some kickback from Slot-It with my consistent remarks and comments about the quality of their componentry - I'm not... but I should.... and it is worthy of my holding in high esteem - their products are simply great.... As it has been pointed out elsewhere - as it is, it could be a lot of fun with the Scalextric tyres - if you are into drifting... ensuring that a small radius is on the outer edge would give some degree of control of how much it would lose traction in drifts... Weight - yes, yet to play around with that... I have chopped an awful lot of weight out of mine - mainly the interior... there's heaps of bulky stuff in there which amounts to a considerable reduction.... and yes, adding little bits of lead at a time to various places low down inside the chassis would most certainly improve contact with the track..... as you can appreciate - my layouts are all Scalextric "sport".... not known for any grip as such.... and not true - as would be your routed wooden track.... I believe low c of g weight would improve this model considerably... but then we look at a larger motor... and better tyres for grip.... and before we know it - we've re-invented the wheel and end up with another Slot-It model... maybe, I'll get there... but for now, I intend to run this model pretty much as I have corrected it.. Of course - and I know you have done this - running cyano into the axle bushes then a few drops of oil until the cyano goes off... creates the closest thing you'll get to bronze bushes in plastic.... If I were to change the rear end - again, it would be Slot-it... bronze bushes and the hardened steel axle etc. etc. etc... but we end up with a Slot-it running chassis with a Scalextric body on it.... I'll persevere with this for some time.. maybe, just maybe - I'll even like it.... as opposed to the L-34 - that was a very disappointing model - and it rarely comes down from the shelf to do any laps at all...... it's just not "fun" to drive... it only ever gets a run for posterity's sake... because I have it... not because I want to run it... thanks for the kind words... unlike the L-34.. a lot of this model out of the factory was quite good.... perhaps they "were" listening.... a sidewinder would have been great - and I'm almost certain one could be fitted in there - forward of the rear axle.... I don't believe "Scalextric" have ever been at the cutting edge of performance - perhaps in the late 50's in design and early '60's (when I entered the hobby)... but they were very quickly overtaken once the public came on board and became involved.... Today, they are an "also ran"... but, for as long as they can provide me (us) with models from down under - I'll continue to support them and purchase their products... frats, Rosco
  20. Thanks G34 - you info is well received and observed... I'll be very careful. frats, Rosco
  21. I didn't have any issue with the order... it has been dispatched. Although too late now - I might suggest not making this availability "known" to others outside our hobby..... it would be nice to keep this channel of opportunity open. Shaynus - some of those scratch built loco's took me nearly three months.... not so much constructing the basic dimensions (which were all scanned from line drawings and scaled down to size at 1/87th).... but the detail... some if it is quite intricate - but very rewarding for the end result. The brass/white metal kits (not cheap, and no longer available) took me a little bit less time - but learning to solder white metal to itself, and to brass..... painstakingly slow. Many don't do this, and simply use superglue - it is a flawed option - the glue breaks down in time with the composition of the metal... and parts of loco's simply either fall off - or apart. See if I can find a pic or two of a couple of brass/white metal kits.... not that this is a model railway forum... The carriages in the pic below are styrene kit... very detailed - two weeks each approximately. The B class loco is a kit bash - two A7 loco's cut into bits and re-assembled to create this "one off" double ended ML-2 loco that only came to Victoria.... The T class loco below is the last loco I was building before we moved home to out here in Mooroolbark - that move put a page break in my model railway hobby, which hasn't yet been picked up from.... soon, I am getting the urge... The loco is nearly finished - missing side plates on the bogies, couplers, hose couplings and final weathering.... another was on the building board, which I've just found whilst looking for my Microsol... and I'll bring that out before much longer and continue.... might take a pic of it, it's only reached the basic outline assembly stage in styrene card... happy to post up progress here in this thread if anyone is interested... There are boxes and boxes of wagons and carriages to be assembled.. and no less than four brass/white metal locomotive kits... two X class, one N and what will be a six month mission - the R Class steam loco - of which I am qualified as firemen for...... although, at nearly age 66 - I'm coming to an end on it... so physically demanding - takes me three days to recover from one 14 hours shift up there... My railway modeling "policy" is that I do not model anything I have not either driven, or fired on.... a reflection, if you like.... or "badge"... a 40 year career as driver and fireman plus 50 years as volunteer fireman (current) on our beloved little Puffing Billy steam railway here in the Dandenongs.... as one great mentor once told me, you can take the man out of the Railways - but you can't take the Railway out of the man..... frats, Rosco
  22. Just to give you a peek at what you can do with styrene plastic card.... three of the scratch built diesel loco's I have done. The bodies are all styrene card and put together with MEK.... the stuff is perfect for any type of joint, and works a treat with laminating... Of course - handrails, door hinges, vents and louvres are made of other materials - mainly brass. The louvres were all singularly pressed in a jig I made .... with a guillotine action for each stamping of each separate louvre in the door, then moving down one space and stamping the next louvre... These doors were made using a brass sheet as the medium - and when completed - superglued (MEK will not look at brass - nor should it) over the styrene body.... as all doors are... The doors without louvres are styrene - and laminated to a basic block shape for the main body... Cellulose sheet was cut to shape for the windows... Fuel tank and battery box detail was made using styrene sheet... and glued in place on the white metal chassis.... learning to solder white metal took some considerable effort - and until I found "bismuth".. the lowest melting point solder of all - I had many failures... the white metal turning to "blobs" if over-heated... or refusing to "stick' if not enough heat was put into the joint.... very fine line..... Pix.. Happy to answer any further questions... frats, Rosco
  23. Hi folk, for the benefit of all....... In my model railway hobby, I have assembled many kits and scratch-built many locomotives and wagons.... My preferred medium for this is brass, but for wagons and loco bodies - I use styrene card.... available from you LHS. As many of us did - we grew up using "kid's" glue - which usually ended up on our fingers - and we etched beaut fingerprints into the plastic parts.... Most of these where I was a kid (60's) came in very small aluminium tubes... requiring a pin to punch a small hole in the extended nozzle..... then it "squirted" out everywhere... After use, we stuffed a pin back in.. but before long - the solvents within evaporated and the tube went "solid".... so, it was usual practice of one small tube per kit..... sometimes, if you were lucky - the kit supplied just "not" enough to finish the model - demanding you spend more money and end up with an almost full solid tube afterwards... In my 20's - in model railway... I found "new" products which were liquid.. and came in a little square bottle with a brush fitted under the lid - this was a vast improvement to the tube variant.... but left a lot to be desired - it left a residue... some form of lubricant which slowed the rate of evaporation of the solvent..... but, life was grand - and my models rarely ever had "fingerprints" on them.... In my 40's... I again returned to the hobby - and was directed to a much better alternative - small 100 ml bottles of pure MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) were available at one of the Melbourne model railway retailers..... for around $2 ... $1 if you brought back the bottle..... I had no idea where he sourced it - I could not get a contact.... but obviously, he was ordering this magic stuff in by a large quantity... and decanting it into small bottles for sale.... Now - this stuff is amazing for "welding" polystyrene (styrene card) together.... a very fine artists brush is used to pick up a very small quantity from the bottle - and the cap immediately screwed back on.... this stuff has a boiling point of -4 deg.... I believe you can appreciate that leaving the cap off the bottle soon accounts for your 100 ml.... When styrene parts are held together - first removing the casting wax and a good scrub with soap and water - or dishwashing liquid - lightly sanded to provide a very good joint - the brush is applied to the joint... you can literally "see" the MEK wick into the joint.... and evaporate. Within 30 seconds - your joint is done... almost like welding it... The best thing, is that it leaves "nothing" on the joint or surrounding plastic..... and is perfect for almost immediately cleaning up the model for an etch primer.... metho based - or anything with an aggressive solvent like an acrylic or automotive paint will melt the styrene plastic...... so, we go with a metho or inert primer... and afterwards - hit it with our preferred solvent based primer... I ran out of MEK many years back.... and the hobby store which used to supply me with it went belly up... or the old chap passed on - or away.... Of course, no local hobby shop will sell you these magic little bottles - for they make much greater profits selling their "authorised" glues and fluids... which work - but nothing like pure MEK. So - here we are... I go to my LHS to purchase some Microsol for decals on my current A9-X project.... and ask about MEK - "nope, you won't get that - need a license".... nor did I get my Microsol.... "we haven't stocked that for years".... Sitting at this laptop tonight - after another epic post..... I set about looking for MEK... and got a direct hit.... Sydney Solvents.... Price - and I was a bit shocked to learn that just one litre is $22... yet 5 litres of it is only $36..... so, I have purchased the 5 litre container.... Shipping to outer eastern Melbourne - $15....... I can tell you, 5 litres of this stuff will last me all my modeling days.... If you have never used this stuff on styrene plastic - I can tell you by experience, you'll never look back... It does not "stick" many other plastics - but, whenever I come up against a new plastic and I want to glue it to something - or itself - MEK was always my first "go to".... and if that failed - it would do so in under 10 seconds.... and no second attempt was ever tried.... You'll find a lot of plastics in our hobbies are styrene based.... and this stuff is simply the duck's guts of fusing them together.... Probably the most common - and easiest to pick - is plumbers pipe etc... the "jointing compound or fluid" either blue or green in those plastic jars (not styrene plastic) have MEK in them... it's the solvent (have a read on the PDL)........ you certainly don't want to be playing around with that very heavy duty fluid - it's got other "stuff" in it to seal up gaps.... we don't want any of that..... The styrene card blocks and front axle retainers that I laminated - would have been a perfect subject for MEK..... instead, I used my current ''''go to" Tarzans Grip shockproof superglue... for both the styrene and chassis plastic.. which worked fine - but for just styrene plastic - MEK is a far better and more appropriate choice.... probably still would have had to go with superglue to fit the blocks to the chassis plastic - but, I can't say whether MEK would have done this - because I don't yet have any..... I'm not suggesting that other should rush out and order 5 litres of the stuff.... but, for members who are affiliated in clubs - or have contact with small numbers of others - sharing the expense of such a volume would result in it being more affordable than what the LHS will supply you..... and, it beats everything else hands down when it comes to this type of plastic.... So - there you go.... just thought I'd share this - I'm pretty happy tonight - having procured this magic lotion after not having it for so many years.... frats, Rosco
  24. Ok folk, bit more done..... car is now track ready.... as follows - Rear tyres glued with water based contact adhesive - then trued up. Radius made on outer tyre edges... Then I had some serious thinking to do - the front axle/wheels/tyres.... whether to true them up or not. In this model, the axle does not run in nylon bushes - but is pushed through a hole each side of the chassis - a bit of a disappointment. I had to decide on whether to remove a wheel - which I hate doing with platic wheels - or to cut into the chassis and remove the axle assembly intact... I chose to cut the chassis - and came up with a way which may prove useful to others who also do not want to pull wheels from axles.. I used a Dremel and cut a "keyhole" into the top of each side of the chassis. The axle was then able to be "sprung" out... intact. Not interfering with the circle chassis bush of the hole except for a small segment above the axle..... just enough to flex the chassis apart to free it.... With the axle out - I sanded off the black paint from the steel axle..... and loaded the assembly into my wheel truer... In this pic, you can see the small amount of cut-away in the chassis.... From the side... And here we have the front axle assembly in the machine - truing down the wheels and then tyres... again, gluing them to the wheels using water based contact adhesive. The front axle has been re-fitted and the chassis set up on the plate.... I have set the height of the front axle here.... and am about to make up some styrene card retainers for the inside of the chassis axle hole... On the plate - from the front.. In this pic, you can see that I have fabricated some axle retainers... in the same style as that cut into the chassis - except, they are mounted inverted. I used two laminations of 0.030" styrene card on each side... the axle "runs" in the hole .. which also lines up with that in the chassis - so, in effect - we have twice the thickness of plastic for the axle to use as a hard fitted bush.. With the axles, wheels and tyres all now set up on the plate - I now turn my attention to the terrible guide arrangement.. i simply don't like these "quick change" guides that Scalextric have taken a liking to use..... they flop all over the place... but, the saving grace is that the guide hole in the chassis is square to the set up plate.... so, we don't have to go and re-invent the post holder... pic.... And here is the top of the guide - you can see the molding pips in it - they result in a lot of the "wobble" these guides make .... but not all of it... In this pic, you can see that I've been in with some wet/dry and a rubbing block... removed the pips and left a nice flat turntable for the guide to pivot on... Next up - you can see the terrible amount of "post" that protrudes up through the post hole.... fitting the retaining screw leaves way too much clearance and the guide flops all over the place - up and down, tilting forward and back - and side to side...... I filed the top of the post so that the flat head of the retaining screw was an almost clearance free fit.... the guide now has barely any wobble or float in it.... I simply don't like this arrangement - but for club purposes - left it in there instead of replacing it with a Slot-It guide.... I detest the contact strips, which are sandwiched between the top of the braid and the turntable of the chassis.... Scalextric have completely lost the "KISS" principle here - but, I must say - it makes for quick changes of braid - not that any track owner should maintain their track so that people have to change braids often.... grrrrr And the Quick Change braid assembly..... it slides over the rear of the guide blade and pushes back once in position to retain it.... more room for things to "move" that should be firm and secure.... As stated, I don't like this - if anything can go wrong - it will.... and will usually do so at a critical opportunity. We can clearly see here the "sandwich" of the contact plate making contact with the top of the braid.... I much prefer the simple Slot-It alternative where an eyelet is pressed into the front of the guide.... and we have direct contact between the motor power lead and the braid.... The guide is now fitted to the chassis - and you can see that all five contact points (four tyres and braid) are all in the same plane on the set-up plate.. Ok, here's a little gem that I stole from my r/c helicopter hobby.... secret weapon for "lubricating" plastic on plastic....... 2B greylead pencil..... graphite, in short - but not in powder form... just a "wiping" of it on the mating surfaces. it neither attracts fluff/grit/crud nor goes hard... or ever seems to wear off..... it's lighter than can be measured and simply works a treat.... just "color in" the mating surfaces for a treat and forget option to any other form of lube... Ok - as far as I am prepared to go for now - the model is track ready.... I have run the motor with the model inverted for a few hours - and it now runs very sweetly indeed.. the first two hours were just at 3v... then a bit of up and down the register to 6V for the next hour whilst beavering away on another project. When I first ran the model on the bench, it took nearly 1.5V for the motor to turn the rear wheels.... after this bench running - it now begins to turn the rear wheels at just 0.5v and it will maintain that constant turning at this low voltage without any hesitation or fluctuation..... as stated, the next bit is to put some track together and give it a bedding in on its own four feet... And finally, we come to another secret weapon I employ - we go to an awful lot of effort to true up wheels and tyres.. then screw the model down onto the floor of a jewel case - not me! I make up some spacers to fit under the chassis - so that when the model is screwed down - the tyres are up and away from the floor of the case.... so too, the braid... I have yet to start applying Patto's decals - when I get my mitts on some Microsol and Microset (coming from WA, and the Isle of Wight at present).... So, for now - probably put this thread on hold until I have some more pix of the completed model - or, I get off my butt and put some track together... frats, Rosco
  25. Ok, I have something to add to this thread..... I went to three LHS's yesterday to get some Microsol and Microset.... none of them stock it any longer... So, went on line and found a crowd in WA who do... bought two bottles of each..... then found another crowd who were offering the third type (for rejuvenating old decals)... and ordered a set of the three..... When Ebay finally sent my receipts - the three set is coming from the Isle of Wight.... so, will have something to add to this thread when I have more info.. frats, Rosco
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