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rosco01

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rosco01 last won the day on May 4

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About rosco01

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    Kart Driver
  • Birthday 04/16/1955

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    Outer Eastern Subs, Melbourne

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  1. Can't help with fixing flat spots other than by re-sanding Gordo. But, with all my boxed models, I cut icy pole sticks up into short sections and glued them to the bottom of the box. They fit between the underside/chassis of the model and the box... surprisingly, it only takes one or two to lift the model up off its tyres just enough so that it is not resting on its tyres. I have two new sets of PG tyres which have been stored under a drawer out of "everything"...never touched. Sadly, they have gone "red" and have split in places... I am a little disappointed in this... they will never be used and I am reluctant to purchase any more for upcoming models. I do not know if I have failed to do something to "mothball" PG tyres, or if this is simply the nature of the urethane beast... I have not suffered such with MJK or Scalextric tyres... frats, Rosco
  2. Ok folk, bit of an update to keep this thread alive. My scratchbuilder's jig and wire bender from Pro-Slot arrived yesterday - it will be a while now before I can make a start on the chassis - I will be "distancing" myself from this build for a bit of a spell and will report back in when I resume. This is where it's at... I started work on the great Munter body. First up - the original front door - I'm not in love with the quarter vent window and will remove it and make up a brass one - fitting it further to the rear, just in front of the curve at the top - this is where I see it on the proto-type. I drilled and slit the three vents in the fender quarter - I believe vents should not be "faux" if there is opportunity to open them... I have done quite a bit of work on door and window gaps.... original pic and revised... there is still work to be done in here to get some of the lines sharper - but I'm getting there. Next up, the rear - I don't like the spoiler that the model was cast from.. it is way too big, has too much rearward rake and does not have the lovely little upward curve - I spent quite some time modifying this and believe I'm very close.... I have also trenched out around the tail-lights, bumper, window and all panels........ The body casting was very thin on the right rear corner - I broke through a few times and had to re-fill. The gaps will be filled almost flush with Aquadhere after I profile the lenses and the edge of the light surrounds will be brush painted in chrome - which I am yet to experiment with..... end result should be close to proto-type..... before/after pix And finally for this post - we come to the plenum vents in front of the window - there was some work in this. I used a #80 drill in a pin vice to drill out top and bottom of each vent then hand made a scalpel blade with a very thin body. I sharpened the cutting edge and ground flat the back of the blade. It took nearly two weeks of evenings, but all these slots are now open. I added some filler under the vents to create the plenum panel. Again, there is work to do to finish this off - but it is only touch up work. There were many break throughs and broken strips.... I believe the end effect will add some reality to the model. I don't like the front grille - it has a Chev bowtie badge in it.. and will mean an awful lot of work to open the holes in it. I have decided to make my own grille from brass strip.. The vents beneath the bumper can simply be ground out. I may re-inforce the rear of the bumper with a sort length of brass wire - I believe this will be necessary when the body casting material is removed from that area..... this model will have frontal collisions with barriers and other obstacles.. it will need a bit of beefing up at the front when I have done my work. Ok - so, that's it for a spell now... frats, Rosco
  3. Ok folk, update.... my package from Michigan, US arrived today 23rd June. It arrived at Australia Post on 9th June.... it is AP which held the package up in my instance. I have my scratchbuilder's jig and also the wire bender, plus three sets of wheel blocks and also three different sized replacement pins. Pretty happy - just glad it got here. frats, Rosco
  4. Thanks Chris - all news to me.... I became a Wiki expert after reading two paragraphs.... as many Wiki experts become. I suspect, the available material stock may for the molding machine may have had a great influence on color... some models, the colour had to be almost correct... who could imagine a boxed "British Racing Green" Mini in anything but dark green.... Today, most models are painted... the substrate really doesn't have any bearing in colour choice... Model looks great, Chris.. so, what is the next one on the list? frats, Rosco
  5. Just did a bit of reseach - motor was originally a 4.5 litre Oldsmobile engine but was not competitive in the field with other cars powered by a Chev 6.0 litre engine. Bruce upgraded to a 5.4 litre Chev engine.. The cast iron Chev motor weighed 200 lbs more than the alloy Olds motor, but produced 100 hp more. The 5.4 Chev block was eventually was upgraded to 6.2 litres. It produced 550 hp. I can only imagine the exhilaration of such a powerful motor in such a small full bodied car. Bruce came in 2nd in the 1966 Can-Am series behind John Surtees You have done Bruce very proud with your model replication of his car. The color scheme was changed to blue in a later series for these cars... hence why your body was blue. frats, Rosco
  6. Really nice work, Chris.... you must be happy with that? Can you tell me what the little box on the left side panel in front of the wheel arch was for?.. I have no idea. There is an access panel on the right hand side at almost the same place, but it looks like it is bolted on. I don't know what engine this car had, but note the two exhausts. The wheels are absolutely spot on - and I love what you have done with the driver. right down to shaded goggles Great work, frats, Rosco
  7. wind blows from the west, Bram... wind full on into filling the sails..... be different if you'd been sending stuff back this side of the ditch (sic). frats, Rosco
  8. Waiting I can put up with, John... it's the uncertainty of "if" it will get here.... and like your UK package, this one is expensive too.... frats, Rosco
  9. I have built two Cooper chassis on a jeweler's tile - they came out really well. Only concern with them was that some of the ceramic broke away on the edges of the holes. They are solder and heat proof.... but brittle. I am waiting for a Precision board and a few extras to arrive from Michigan... may be a month or more yet... the wind must be blowing in the wrong direction - I think the slow boat is coming the long way around... I did go for the 1/32 metric board, as Chris W suggests... I will hold off on making a start on my two Torana chassis builds until it arrives. Wheels done, doing body work now... frats, Rosco
  10. Looks great Vinno - nice work with Larry - I'm sure he won't mind you catching him with his crash test dummy glasses on.... Wheels are out of my league... they look amazing. How did you do the decals.. ummmmm how did you make them/purchase them/whatever... Looks like a great day for a race... hope it doesn't rain... (sic). frats, Rosco
  11. I placed an order for a scratchbuiilders jig from Michigan... it was picked up pretty pronto by USPost..... I have been tracking it... went well, until it got to the international dispatch area... and it's been stuck "in transit" since arriving there on 20 May.... may be here by Christmas.... this year.... frats, Rosco
  12. Hi folk, another day, more done... I marked up, drilled and tapped two M4 threads into the base of the lower jig... so that screws could be wound in to press out the upper half with the brass frame "squashed" to shape.... I had a lot of trouble doing this last night with frame #1... this upgrade has made work a lot easier...... Ok, we have shortened the "revision 1" frame by 3.5 mm..... here it is after being marked out and drilled accurately using the Mill. You can see the motor shaft and bush plus the two axle bushes look a lot better than the first attempt. I spent a bit of time in the Suttons drill catalogue and found two drill bits which "almost" perfectly suit the motor bush and another one for the axle bushes.... if anyone is following this.. the motor bush drill bit is 6.2 mm and is a "stock" item for a rivet gun..... the axle bush one is not, but Suttons do make a bright steel one in 4.8 mm and a black bit in 4.9... I took two of the 4.8 and the bushes fit it with just enough clearance so that they can be fitted up with the axle in them and soldered into position... I wouldn't want them to be any closer a fit... they would then be a press fit and adjustment would be zilch. Here are the holes drilled without filing with the motor and axle bushes in position... Ok, we have pressed out frame to shape, twice - as before... and removed it from the jig... now we test to see how the reduction in length results.. and I am pretty happy with this. In the pic below, you can see there is very little clearance left from the crown to one of the motor mount screws... this red Slot It crown is the largest in a set of 5.. I'll probably play around with all five to determine which of them best suits the Flat 6 motor.. I have two different pinions to play with as well..... it will be fun to determine how the model best runs on differing ratios. I am now firmly of the belief that the length of this frame will now be my "go to" for future Flat 6 powered models.... I will detail specs a bit later in this post if anyone would like to squirrel them away for future reference..... never say never.. you never know... And here we have the green crown fitted.. the smallest of them. Note that the end of the motor shaft sits exactly in the same position in each of the differing crown hubs.... it is "just" inside the slot by the thickness of the shaft... As Chris W has suggested, I won't be using this slot for my axle position.. but to shim each side of the crown between the axle bushes on each side. In this pic, you can see the two revised frames... and the original.... the revised have been shortened 3.5 mm. And just to polish of tonight's edition... I gave one of the revised a bit of a scrub up... no point in going too far with it yet... it has to be soldered to the top of the chassis rails... whenever I get this scratchbuilder's jig and can finally sit down to work out the chassis layout.. Ok..... scribble this down if you want the dimensions I have now "inked" in.... Material - K&H 1.0 mm x 12.0 mm brass strip - #9844... 3 pcs. Length of frame plate...... 48.0 mm - centred at 24.0 mm Motor bush hole - centre, lateral and vertical - size - 6.2 mm (Suttons drill bit). Motor mount holes - 12.50 mm apart... 6.25 mm from centre line - M2 clearance holes.... 2 mm drill bit Flat 6 mount face plate - 20.5 mm - folds @ 10. 25 mm each side of centre line. Axle bush holes - 20.25 mm from centre line..... 4.8 mm holes - Suttons drill bit - bush clearance fit Happy to answer any further questions (relating to this post, for those with wit)... frats, Rosco
  13. Thanks Chris... I drool over you chassis work each time I see a pic of one... the detail, and engineering astound me.... Yes, this is the plan - I did this with the little Cooper and it works perfectly... there isn't any slot in the RD gears that were made for me... and using shims both side of the crown was necessary to get the mesh... they have not worn one bit, as you suggest..... the crown and pinion are very small in that model, and it does not roll freely with them.... I don't know why, the mesh is good... maybe, it's to do with the size of the crown - I don't know. Everything else in that little car is free running - including the independent free spinning wheels on the front axle... which is also free to spin inside a brass tube.... Number two Cooper using the same gear set is exactly the same.. the motor is free spinning by hand - but in mesh, although there is no binding - it simply doesn't "roll" freely on the track.... it's a fairly fast car... but it simply doesn't roll - might be one of the reasons it is fast... braking wise... I intend to shim both sides of the crown on these models as well..... it's a much better arrangement than relying on the slot in the hub to centre the mesh... Slot-It crowns are simply superb, as is all their other gear.... but taking control of mesh and axle movement is far better by the shim method. I have accumulated a small container of MB shims... and the little shim feeler gauge that comes with the sheet.... I can turn out the larger spacers and add shims as needed for correct clearance and alignment. I'm not too sure how to go with the front bracket yet... I'll try to get the guide as far forward as the model will allow... it has been suggested to me to do this for a circuit model... and to fit the guide post closer to the axle for a rally model.... I'm a bit a sea with the physics of this... Further, I'm not too sure how wide to make the front bracket.... the ones which I had made up for me to build the little Cooper were a different width to the rear frame.. I had some issues with fitting piano wire to both brackets and keeping them parallel to the centre-line of the mode... My current intention is to make both brackets the same width.. so that they can be soldered to the wire parallel... I intend to have two body posts for this model.. one screwed to the front bracket and one at the rear on a soldered plate behind the crown. I believe this will afford the greatest purchase on the chassis by the body, but it will be free floating..... I don't believe I need any side rails on the body.. perhaps a tab each side to relieve stress on the posts during a roll-over.. but this would be the only time the body would be likely to make contact with these two small arresting tabs.... Out to drill and punch out another frame shortly (when the frost melts... it's 1 deg C in the garage at present... I'm in no rush to go out yet.... Bram - thanks.... I do like to do my best. but there are quite a few "whoopsies" in the first bracket.. you can see "stray" drill marks in a few places.. and also grinding marks from the little Dremel.... I should do better with the result in being so fortunate to have these great machines... but, this project is not only adding to my slot building education... it is also educating me on how to use both machines... I don't know about anyone wanting to line up for these brackets... a much easier and simpler method as you suggest would avoid the 6 or so hours it takes me to mark up and punch one of these out.... I'm running out of years, my family would like to see some of me in the time I have remaining... I've got 20 wheels or so that are "surplus"... all of them could be used and most would be acceptable..... but, they are not going onto my models.... and will live in the "surplus" box until they find residency or purpose some place else... Of those, only 4 have "wobble" issues.. the rest of the "wronguns" are simply out of the very close spec I attempted.... mistakes in setting up the machines mostly the cause... but some were badly laid out in marking up.... I only need 8 good ones... I have 5 more yet to turn... Ok, thanks heaps for your info, Chris (again)... my scratchbuilder jig has not turned up yet... I've been tracking it and it seems to have found a blockage point someplace over the Pacific.... I believe US Post has now delivered its responsibility.... probably stuck in the "inbox" of AusPost at present.... goodness only knows how long it will gather dust there.... Back later with number two bracket... Oh, forgot to mention... there has to be a revision made to the jig... I will drill and tap two holes under the base part... so that two screws can be used to push the upper part out of the base... it's an awful tight fit with the brass formed to shape under the 10 tonne press... it must "squeeze" everything into shape..... it took quite a bit of "encouraging" to separate the two after pressing them both times..... a simple cap screw each side will apply positive pressure to drive up the insertion block and bracket... I'm pretty happy with how the first bracket formed.... they will probably get a little less exacting when a number of them have been pressed and they make their own clearance in both parts of the jig... frats, Rosco
  14. Ok folk, bit more done... number 1 motor/gearbox/axle frame has now been completed.... pretty much as I expected, but this one won't be used for one of the builds... it was always going to be a prototype test piece... I could use it, it will work fine - but I have now revised my measurements knowing exactly where the axle holes will end up once the frame is bent to shape. My calculations were a fair bit out... my spacing from motor face to centre line of axle bush is 3.5 mm out.... I added the 1.0 mm thickness of the frame and should have subtracted it... and I have now removed a further 1.5 mm of "fat" which I added in ...... "just in case"... I now know the measurement and will mark out number 2 frame shortly... So, from the previous post... we made up our insertion block of the jig... and, during the thought processes - decided I'd also incorporate a rebate for the motor face as well as both sides.... this would ensure that the face stayed absolutely flat when pressed .... which it did. So - here we go.... First up, the 12 mm x 1.0 mm brass strip has been marked out, drilled and cut to length..... it is sitting near the insertion block. You can see the 1.0 mm rebate I milled out for the brass strip to fit into when pressed into the "home" block..... Next, the frame plate has now been screwed down into the insertion block and is now ready to be placed in position over the block for pressing... We are now pressing the insertion block into the home block, the brass has been deflected upwards whilst being held captive in the rebates as the plug travels down into the base.... - we are about half way down here... everything is going according to plan.... We have now pressed it down for the first pressing..... it was removed after this and the cap screws removed... then pressed again so that the brass face plate for the motor would be absolutely flat.. and the corners "squared" up ..... I didn't take a pic of the second pressing... And here is our motor/gearbox/axle frame... all done - ready to be fitted out with axle bushes and motor... I fitted the motor, axle bushes, axle and crown wheel... plus some faulty turned wheels.... everything is square and parallel here.. I'm pretty happy with the end result.. but, the axle is 3.5 mm too far from the motor.... revision 1 will be marked out, drilled and pressed tomorrow... You can see in this final pic, looking from the rear - everything is in alignment.. it is square on to the motor face and the width of the frame is exactly that of the width of the motor.... When we come to build the chassis, the piano wire will be soldered under the side legs of this frame.... We also need to mill out another one of these for the front axle and guide frame..... I'm not certain which way I'm going with this yet... just to get this rear one worked out and done took a fair bit of headwork... Ok, back with revision 1 frame tomorrow night.... I should be able to punch these out fairly quickly now. It will be a "universal" frame for many sedan type models I intend to build...... there is an EH Holden in the short term wings.... frats, Rosco
  15. Ok folk, getting closer to actually doing something about modeling these Torana's..... Today, I started work on the motor mount/gearbox/axle frame..... i decided some time ago to build my own from 1.0 mm brass strip... how I was going to do it was an ongoing thought process, but came to the conclusion that I could make up a "jig" to punch out my own.... it needed to be "generic" - so that I could use it in other models. Munter put me onto some thoughts to consider and I set these in to motion yesterday.... purchasing some blocks of high tensile aluminium from which to make both the base and the insertion block, which together should allow me to press a 12 mm wide strip of 1.0 mm brass down using a 10 tonne bearing press (purchased to replace those pesky bearings in the lathe)... I have decided to follow Munter's suggestion to make the frame wide... and also to match the width of the intended motor.. both of them being Slot-It "flat 6's"... which, the motor body width is 20.5 mm.... so, my frame outside diameter (O.D.) will be 20.5 mm... the lines were scribed in a this through the ink... the depth I did not yet know, but I understood it may not have been possible to get the full depth of the gearbox... at least 10 mm should be enough to set both legs exactly at right angles to the motor mount holes.... and parallel to each other. I have done zip all work with the Mill, other than a fair bit of dilling and one little practice session of how the collet and cutting bit worked... along with how the various wheels and dials on the machine allowed such fine control over machining a surface... etc.... So, today - we set off into the machine shop (very jumbled and confined space in a 2 car garage)... I faced one block and found that it does not come supplied in a true measurement.. it was miles out from one end to the other - at first believing that my Mill was well out of adjustment... but, with the dial gauge - it soon revealed the material... so, we put that to rest and I surfaced the block - and then painted on some "engineer's blue ink" and scribed out my work.... Before I got very far into the work, the machine started to protest.. it was making strange sounds and I shuddered at the thought of spending all weekend putting this one right as well... it took me nearly a month to get the lathe to where i wanted it.... I was really not too happy to find that this may be the case with the Mill as well..... Out with the manual - written in "Chinglish".... and interpreted enough to work out how to pull it apart... took off the cover - and presto!... the timing belt was almost loose.... four cap head screws later - and the noise is gone... decided to have a bit of a look around whilst I was in there.. lubed up some of the places that need a bit of undoing to get to and put it all back together..... much better... Set the block down and firmly secured it to a mounted vice on the lathe bed.. checked it for true and fitted a 2 flute 10 mm cutter to the collet... Set up the height and forward travel and took my "witness" cut... it ran beautifully... so much so, that I didn't want to stop... Pic below shows the first of these cuts... taking them at a depth of 0.5 mm per pass.... I took the first cut right on the right hand line of the 20.5 mm..... in hindsight, I should have come back inside a bit - so that I could run a finishing "face" cut when the full depth was made.. but I didn't... neither did I for the left side cut either... note to self... Rem this... Left cuts.... We're starting to get down towards the body of the vice now... and I realise that I will get my 10 mm depth... perhaps a smidge more... Pretty happy with this first attempt so far.... I am gaining a lot of respect for this machine - it is doing everything that I could wish of it... the cuts are precise and exact... the finish is quite impressive considering I'm using a 2 flute cutter... You can see in the pix... the 10 mm cutter leaves a 0.5 mm centre section.. our width being 20.5 mm..... the cutter being 10.0 mm.... let's see what happens to the 0.5 mm piece in the middle... if the machine is accurate - it should leave it there.... but, the chips of metal blasting out from the cutter are certainly hitting it hard.... So, here we are... we managed to get down to 11.0 mm depth on both sides..... this being exactly 10.0 mm from the surface when the 1.0 mm brass strip is fitted... I'm now pretty happy with this..... And.. that centre "wall".. it remained intact.. all 0.5 mm of it... you can see that my final cut was on the right side trench.. the chips deflecting the wall over to the left... It didn't take much to run the cutter down the centre and fling off that tiny piece.. here is the finished base of the jig... for a first attempt, I'm really happy with how it went.... There is so much aluminium laying around the mill and on the floor - I'm considering vacuuming it all up and taking it to a scrap metal cash point.. there is a time when I'd have stopped a train to pick this much up.... And finally, we bring the jig inside and do a test fit of the flat six motor.. it is a "snug" fit... again, pretty chuffed with this ..... Next, we need to mark up, cut and mill the insertion block... I will machine it to size first, then drill the motor mount, axle bush and motor bearing holes... the brass strip can then be firmly screwed into place... and the insertion pressed into this bottom part of the jig to align it square and parallel... this is the plan - whether it works.... we'll see a bit later in this thread... frats, Rosco
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