Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


rosco01 last won the day on March 3

rosco01 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

113 Neutral

About rosco01

  • Rank
    Kart Driver
  • Birthday 04/16/1955

Previous Fields

  • Country
  • How did you find us?
    web browser

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Outer Eastern Subs, Melbourne

Recent Profile Visitors

499 profile views
  1. Thanks again, Chris. You have given me more to strive for when I tune a model..... we have all heard of the "fire triangle"... now we have the "drive triangle".... simples.... frats, Rosco
  2. When I get to them, I'll run a report thread on this Chris..... I'm certain now from what you post - that I can effect some tuning of these pods. From memory, the rear pod suspension arrangement was such that an adjustable screw set both extremes of pod travel. Two screws at the front of the pod afforded greater control of fine tuning. Differing spring tensions were available.. from a very soft to a fairly firm. I believe I set mine with something in the mid-range... my track is really not that bad - but it's plastic track - and the factory undulations ire identical in each straight piece... I really look after my track, it is cleaned and the running rails wiped down with Inox before being all packaged up in the original boxes and stored until next use.... I have always been this way since purchasing my first D straight in 1966..... a discipline which I simply can't bring myself not to continue with... I believe the U shaped piano wire addition and some 380 will bring the componentry of the pod to a much more rigid state.. and very much look forward to learning of what effect this upgrade will bring to each model. Of all the piano wire chassis models I have now constructed - each of them has that rigid U shaped rear bracket - the motor firmly locked to it by screws, and the axle secured in place by the soldered in brass/bronze bushes... it is this that we wish to replicate in commercial plastic etc chassis pods... I have had great success with some earlier Scalextric models which never ran right - a Triumph TR-7 and a Mk1 Escort immediately come to mind. There was so much flex of the rear axle/pinion arrangement in those models that they bound up continually... and flexed out causing gear teeth chomping. I corrected this as best I could with heavy applications of JB-weld with some wire embedded into it - it made a huge difference to the performance and longevity of the drive-train.... With the Slot-It chassis - each of my GT-40's (I think there are 8) - I stripped the chassis and re-learned the plastic in the hot bath/long cool process.. using a flat metal plate and magnets to keep it perfectly flat until the plastic re-learned itself... Each of those models was a lot easier to set up once the chassis was true... none of them came out of the factory with it in a flat plane.... some were close, but none of them could be positioned on a set-up plate with trued wheels and tyres without one wheel lifting when the opposite side/end was pushed down on the plate. Probably didn't do a lot for plastic track use - but it certainly made them better performers when I used to take them to a club wood set up..... Plastic track is for people who don't have room for a wood layout.. I'm convinced of this... I'd love to have room to make one - but like just so many things in my life - each hobby only has enough room/storage for a certain percentage overall.... I yearn for space, but understand I'd simply fill it with more "stuff".... frats, Rosco
  3. Thanks Chris, all questions thus far answered and acknowledged. I'll take a closer look at the suspension system fitted to my Slot-It GT40 fleet.. but, from memory, that triangle is fixed - I'll make it more rigid. I firmly (excuse pun) believe it's the pod that affords suspension - not the rear axle. I can't for the life of me come to believe that Slot-It would create such a fault... but, I'll check when I open the vault again in four or five months' time... next planned return to the hobby. Will PM you and explain pending break..... frats, Rosco
  4. Busy as all heck at present, Warren... in matters outside hobbies. Slot cars have been locked away in the "vault" for six or seven weeks now.. with only the LJ body free to work on when I have time (rare). I had never considered a brace across the back of a plastic chassis... not fully appreciating just how much flex occurs under load from the motor to the wheels. It may explain some of the strange noises I have been listening to for decades.... in particular, the Scalextric GT-40 Mk 2's that I have a couple of... one is better than the other, but I now expect that it is firmer.... they will both get the piano wire bracket addition - and we'll note if it improves/removes this apparent mysterious noise... I will have much to do when I return to the hobby later on in the year. It was a rush to get the Tasman Cup proxy car up and posted.... with that out of the way, I was able to mothball slot car projects for now, hence my absence from the forum of late. I have purchased a second T/S Mosler - bit unfair to only run one in competition - so, I will have two when the second arrives. Also - the Winfield Slot-It Skyline and Peter/Phil Brock's Scalextric A9-X are both on pre-order... Apologies for swamping your thread, Chris.... still keen to learn what weights you used on the M6A... and what paint/colour you created such a lovely looking period model with... frats, Rosco
  5. Thanks Chis - my learning curve has just "tilted" skywards. I have absolutely no experience of this new-to-me support, but fully expect that it will now be incorporated into every model I either purchase or strip down for a refit.... I have many Slot-It models - all with this same apparent ability to flex - I'll compare one against the other as progression is made through the fleet. In all the Slot-It GT-40's I have - I have installed the optional rear suspension system... it works a treat on Scalextric plastic track - being able to balance out undulations laterally across the track... I have yet to strip one of these down, but believe the fitting of this new-fandangled (to me) can be incorporated.... it's the tilting/twisting alignment of the axle in the pod which is the issue.... if the motor goes with the suspension, the incorporation of such bracket will ensure that the assembly stays rigid as one... yet, the axle can "float" up/down in the chassis to smooth out contact with the imperfect track... I'll take a very close look at this, Chris - but, I can attest that the fitting of the suspension springs/assembly to these GT40 models most certainly affords better times on poor plastic track.... which is all that I have. Thanks for your reply - any word on the weights used in your T/S chassis....? frats, Rosco
  6. Lovely work - again, Chris..... I have the same white kit yet to be started on. First I've seen of using an axle brace - if I am not wrong, this is the "L" shaped bracket across the rear of the pod - held down by screws and Nylocs...? Did you fabricate this yourself, of is it commercially marketed? Also, what did you use for your weights?.... they seem dull like lead - from lead sheet? Love the livery - simple, but very clean and "just" the right amount of decals. Paint? We have stumbled onto a new paint supplier here in Oz.... SMS. The chap is a long term modeler and has ventured into developing, producing and marketing his own product. It is all acrylic lacquer - and he goes a long way into explaining what the product is. It comes pre-thinned for air brush use in a 30 ml bottle - but he also supplies thinners, retarders and levelers.... I have not sprayed a slot car with it yet... but results from other models have been extremely pleasing. It flows out beautifully from the brush and dries very quickly. The clear coat is probably the clearest I have yet used, and dries to a hard shell-like coating. I have not applied it over decals as yet.... but I read that it is not as invasive as many of other manufacturers.... a mist coat prior to a wet coat seems to appease most decals.... will report when I've had a play. He further markets a number of very fine pigmented 2K colours and some "colour shifts". Looking forward to getting an optic on your second model. frats, Rosco
  7. Chas, if you've used Post Image before - should still be the same. Only issue I have is that each pic has to be sent separately, and I then have to go back and select and upload the next one. Simply "copy image" by clicking right on the second bottom image location once uploaded - then pasting it into your forum thread by again clicking right and "paste"... frats, Rosco
  8. Thanks Chas....put a bit of work into it, but not as much as my previous entry a couple of years back. This one does not have the same top end speed that #1 did... not sure what it is..... same motor, wheels, gears etc. etc... might just be a motor which needs a bit of running before it comes on song... However, it was ticking over nicely without any binding at just 1.1v.... #1 was around that on completion.. we'll see.... main thing, those who are privileged to enjoy running the entire field during events enjoy them..... and that none are subjected to needing any repairs during the series... Yes, there must be a bit of the field still in transit - every confidence they'll make the scrutineer's paddock well before start of proceedings... frats, Rosco
  9. Beautiful work... frats, Rosco
  10. Ok folk, front mounts are done.... I have left the third centre mount in situ for now... can't see that I'll need it, but it always seems to result that when you start to cut something out - you find a reason why you should not have... so, I'm leaving it there for now.... long way to go before the body is finished... chassis is now done, so that's a big part of the build out of the way... I chose this as my final ride height - it's a bit of a compromise between full on proto and soaking up a little bit of that low hanging brass side plate... see what you think? I have had a long hard look at the guide and leads... and believe I have come out of this a lot better than originally feared. I can leave the lower grill intake complete, I do need to shave a small radius from the inner rear to allow for the guide bolt and washer - but to my relief, the leads will run through the intake... and when I trim them to size - should not present any ugly issue - or compromise the full arc of the guide in either direction... so, I have had a win here.... the guide is as far forward as I would care to take it.... the very front sits under the bumper.. so we don't see it looking down... it looks ugly, but this is to be expected for a sedan body I expect.... with this very high ride height... And here we can see my work re-inventing the front body posts... the original post remains in the centre.. I will clean all this area up before finishing the body... These new posts allow the body to sit exactly where I want it on the chassis... I'll open out the holes in the chassis a tad to create some body float... I can now return to work on the body, some of the rear bumper has been inked in Molotow... and the rear taillights.... I will mask up the front and ink the surrounds for the grille and headlights.. then black out the excess.... when happy, I'll fit the brass grille in... and we then need to sort out headlights... so, before I get to the interior - I have a bit of work to go yet... until next... frats, Rosco
  11. A-2 did really well with her wing, Bondy gave permission to lift her skirts after winning the series...... I've already shown what's under the hemline on this little car, Shaynus.... Yes, posts are now setting in JB.. I believe I've got the ride height pretty accurate to Proto... we'll see when the wheel inserts go in... May have some issues with the front guide now - I'm hoping to get away without having to cut into the lower skirt under the grille - I re-positioned the guide after noting what Vinno did with his.... my guide is "just" not visible from above at the front.... but there will be issues with getting the leads back under the body... too early to call yet - chassis is now locked in position... so, we'll have to mess with the body if it all doesn't fit up.... it will be the top of the guide and leads where I come unstuck... not the end of the world, but I was hoping to keep all that area scale correct... might be too much to ask - end of the day, it's a slot car - not a bench showpiece... frats, Rosco
  12. Ok, job is done.... relatively easy to set up. I simply used the original centre hole in the post and fitted an M2 cap head up through it... placed the strip in position then tightened down a small nut when I was happy with position.... then "wick" soldered the joint.. cleaned it up and all done. I will now cut two short lengths of styrene tube and screw them to these holes.... trim them to size and then set the body in position... and finally JB weld them to the body... Pix... Back tomorrow with some pix of the new posts in position.. and hopefully, a satisfactory report on removing that tilt.... frats, Rosco
  13. Thanks Bram, I was actually thinking on fitting some vertical styrene card strips on the edge of the brass side panels.... and painting them matt black.... they could be positioned inside the body sills and yet proved float for the body to pass over them........ not sure yet, we are still contemplating getting rid of the tilting issue. I spent a bit of time thinking on the matter today - and now believe I'll run a 0.40 mm brass strip laterally across the front body mount post of the chassis. This will allow me to remove the centre body post at the front and fit two replacements - one each side... it should completely resolve any tendency for the body to sit cock-eyed.... The 0.40 mm brass strip has a tiny bit of flexiblity - yet, if under compression - will return the body to a central position once that load is removed (cornering etc).. I can solder this short piece of strip onto the top of the current brass post.... it doesn't need much to keep it in place. Overall effect will be less appealing... with the body removed - but to get the body to sit properly is probably a worthy compromise... will report once I've done the job... sadly, the chassis won't look neat once I do this work.... it will have "wings" inside it... I believe, as Munter suggests - it more appropriate to have two mount posts at the front.... and I will leave the single rear post.... as is. I will have to extend this proposed strip almost out to the front tyres - I will need access past the rails of the chassis to fit the mount screws... so, any thought on keeping this small strip short are out of any consideration... There will be a nice "hole" to run a screwdriver up behind the front wheels to access the mount screws - I'm pretty much convinced this is my best course of remedy... Watch this space... frats, Rosco
  14. Thanks OS-62.... yes, I have had some very positive suggestions thus far... amounting to providing at least three mounting points for a larger body than I have previously scratch built a chassis for.... At present, I am considering fitting two pads inside the sills of the body - and perhaps a short piece of wire from there down to the brass strips on the chassis.... Sadly, they sit very low and this will all be very obvious, even though I will paint them matt black. I had considered soldering a brass strip across the top of the rear chassis mount... and providing two posts in the back of the body... these would be better up front, but I can't justify adding weight so high up..... and will attempt the sill mounted pads and wire first..... if that looks too ungainly - I'll look at the brass strip across the rear... and finally the front... As mentioned, I am happy with the chassis and don't want to mess with it any further.... if I need to, it will be a last resort.. There may yet be another option which has neither been suggested or has come to mind yet... I am having a good think on this before I cut and thrust into action... Thanks for your reply, OS-62.... I do hope that we have all learned something from this, my first attempt at a sedan chassis.... frats, Rosco
  15. Ok folk, we have now completed the little Cooper and it awaits shipping off to the scrutineer's paddock in Adelaide.... So - now full time back on the LJ build. A bit has been done since last post, the chassis is complete and assembled - but, I have an issue with body mounts..... and ask the brains trust within for options/alternatives which may rectify the issue.... First up, some pix and a bit of a report... Here is the completed chassis sitting on a steel set-up block.... all four tyres sit true on the block, and there is just enough space under the guide for the braid to be fitted... I have work to do yet, and will leave the braid until the model is complete and is about to be placed on a track. The guide is held in place using an M2 cap head bolt, a lock nut and a brass washer. There is zero lash between the guide post and the tube - it took a bit of doing, but I found that using a newly purchased "ceramic" scraper blade gave me much more control in mating the two than previous use of a sanding block and fine wet/dry... the ceramic blade easily removed very fine amounts of any indicated binding of the guide post in the brass tube.... evidenced by the "rubbing" of brass on the post.... We can also see here, that I have again employed my now preferred method for providing an independent front wheel arrangement... tapping into the hollow axle tube with a 10 BA tap and the fitting of a 10 BA counter head screw to retain it in the tube.. This affords greater control over clearance between the front wheels in the axle tube. I have used 1/8" square brass rod for the tube in this build - but will revert back to round tube in future... I don't like the amount of slack between the square tube and the axle... it's not much, but I have found the round tube a closer fit.... Side on pic.... The next pic shows the front of the chassis in the set up plate. I am happy with all components and their placement here... As you can see, I also like to drill and tap the front of the guide so that M2 grub screws can be inserted to hold the contact lead securely inside the guide - this practice is yet to fail me for the few years I have included it in my builds and re-builds... I like using silicone leads... they are both flexible, and provide a little "return" to neutral setting on a de-slot. I ensure that equal lengths of this lead are used. You can also see that with this model, I have chosen to drill holes in the two plates which support the axle tube... I don't like leads "flopping" around un-necessarily inside a body.... these two holes keep the leads contained and allow them to "cross-over" and point towards their respective motor terminals... This Slot-It motor is a bit odd.... it has a red painted dot on one terminal, but the motor drives the rear axle in reverse if I use the right hand contact rail connected to this terminal..... the teeth of my crown are located on the right side of the rear axle, as I have done in other builds - yet, if I were to connect track positive to this terminal - the axle would drive in reverse... I'll get to the motor in a bit.... but the news is very, very good... Ok, here we can see the rear of the chassis - and in it, one area/problem I am yet to overcome.. the rear body mount. I drifted away from a rounded "U" shaped rear end of the chassis with this build - so that a rear body mount plate could be soldered on. The solder I am using has excellent holding ability, using my favored flux - the brass took to the piano wire very easily... and I was able to locate the rear mount plate exactly where I wanted it.... You can also see in the "corner" of this plate I have formed a right angled bend.... it is normally a difficult bend to make if simply placing the brass sheet in a vice, or between some flat faced pliers... this time, I used the Dremel with a very fine cutting wheel to scribe along the line of the bend.... and then used the vice and pliers to finish it off. Once formed and brought to exactly right angled and square, I then ran a bead of solder into the joint... it may give the impression that this joint is made of two pieces - but having explained my method - you can appreciate that it is the one piece - and formed to my satisfaction.... We can also see that I have not shimmed outside the rear axle bracket - and in the next few pix - you will see that I have shimmed between the crown and inside of teh rear bushes.... which is a more exacting practice - rather than to rely on the slot provided within the Slot-It crown... this method was suggested to me quite some time back by the good folk in this forum - and again, it has not failed me... more so - improved the running and wear/maintenance of both the crown/pinion. and the constant positioning of the rear axle in its bushes... The issue I am having, is that body float does not return the body to a central balanced position.... I went to a lot of effort to ensure that it would - but it doesn't. The chassis mount plates and front post were positioned exactly.... dead centre-line, and full on vertically square to the body.... the body posts were screwed into the chassis then cut to length then JB weld was used to epoxy them in place on the body.... I set up a jig so that the body sat at exactly the desired ride height, and that it was exactly parallel and square to the chassis... and left it overnight. When the screws are removed, the body can be removed and re-fitted exactly in place.... but, it will not sit flat on the chassis mounts... and "topples" to one side or the other ever so slightly.... allowing for body float, this would normally be acceptable.. but, due to the wheel arches and my need to have the track at exactly 46 mm.... I have precious little clearance left to allow for such "toppling" in body float... I am considering adding some more components to the chassis, but baulk at interfering with what I believe is probably the best chassis I have yet made..... I could fit some "locating" posts in the body - similar to what commercial manufacturers do.... and this may very well be the direction I take - rather than add any more to the chassis.... I am very happy with the chassis, and really don't want to compromise what has been an extensive build.... Ok... time for a look at the top.... from the side.... As you can see, the motor sits very nicely between the rails - it does not touch them, and does not "hang" down below them. As you might appreciate, I built the jig for the rear bracket to suit this motor - and I foresee that I will wear it out.. I simply love the motor ... more later. We can see in the pic, the mounts for the body - a post at front, constructed from a "top hat" box section with sides soldered on.... Originally, I planned on simply screwing a body post to the mount plate of the chassis - but the length of that post was simply ridiculous. so, I added this box section mount.. which resulted in a much more appropriate body post. The rear bracket - and here is probably where I have made my mistake - I should have made it full width at the rear... allowing a wider rear body post to be employed.... which would have "centered" the body to a square on position, yet allowed float.... lesson learned... The holes through the front axle tube support made easy work of running and locating the power leads... it keeps them nicely "criss-crossed" and in position during the complete movement of the guide deflection from one side to the other, yet affords sufficient movement for free movement.... I will use this again... We can also see the small brass plate I soldered to the top of the front axle tube... drilled it at centre then tapped it. You may be scratching your head as for it's purpose, and some of you may believe it is for some form of lubrication......? but when I tell you that my front axle is also free to rotate within the tube - you will understand that during maintenance or tyre/wheel replacement - I will need to lock the front axle... so that the 10 BA brass screws can be undone and allow the independent free turning wheels to be removed. I did this with Cooper #2... for this very reason, and have also retro-fitted Cooper #1 with the same tapped plate.... I do appreciate there are arguments for and against the fitting of a smoothing ceramic capacitor.. my own believe is that they should be employed.... not so much for interference issues... but to absorb the surplus electricity in the "nano-second" between brush/commutator breaks.... rather than "flash-over" the commutator... I do appreciate, with motors this small - it is more than probable an electrical engineering demand - but it is my choice, and I choose to include them. I have had success employing two such capacitors on some of the larger motor powered models I have..... to do this, I simply solder each one from the motor terminal to the metal of the motor body.... using it as a "bus" to make the connection between the two capacitors.... and possibly absorbing any induced field or stray/errant spikes which may/may not surround the armature in the metal motor housing.... I note that this practice is employed in Carrera models - and have mimicked it in some of my older models with larger/less efficient motors... like the 50 year old Scalextric Muira and Ferrari P4 that I purchase new when I first started work at age 15...... in 1970..... the original motors continue to run sweetly.. with just a bit of bush wear...... but, they run well and these two models are very much asked for when we have our annual slot car weekend (Bathurst 1000 weekend). Ok... next... pic of the above/above... We get a bit of a peek at the inline arrangement in this next pic. We can see that it all looks "in place"..... nothing protrudes or looks out of place... I believe it's neat, and yet relatively simple. It would have looked more simple had I not elected to add the front mount box pillar... but even that doesn't really look out of place... I was happy with the build as I went along designing it... and would more than likely repeat the same chassis arrangement for the LC XU-1 when it is time to make a start on that.... You may ask, why I went to all that trouble to drill and tap front wheel grub holes?... and you would be forgiven for doing so..... however, if I were to tell you that the only reason these were done was so that the wheels could be removed to fit new tyres... then fitting the to an axle so that the tyres could be trued.. well, I now believe you can appreciate why I chose to add them to the turning of the front wheels........ ? Speaking of which, an the previous turning of some 28 wheels for this model - all of which were not used!.... and another four were then made to replace them... why? Well, as you might recall early in this build - I wanted to mirror what Slot-It were doing with the original wheels I bought for both these two Torana projects..... the grub screw hole was centred on the inner wheel rim and hub.... I had a terrible time learning how to overcome that, but got there... When it came to finally designing the chassis - I quickly came to realise that that practice was entirely wasted on this model... I needed hubs..... and I chose to widen them out to suit the chassis rails - which ultimately was made up to suit the rear bracket - which further was designed to suit the motor.... bit like chicken and egg - but I hope people reading this dribble can appreciate, everything relates to something else... and simply plucking a number out of what most people sit on as a starting point - often results in a wasted effort...... so, we have motor size - which gives up bracket size - which gives us rail spacing... and then we can work out wheel design..... not the other way around, which was the direction I took in this first sedan build.... lessons learned.... build the wheels for the chassis, not the chassis for the wheels... I was able to fit small spacers between my axle tube and the wheel on each side - which affords some running clearance and offers points of lubrication... Pic.... Ok.... and here we get a look along the chassis from the rear.... Again, to me - the build looks simple, yet neat and functional... I may be wrong, this is only the third such chassis I have ever built.... We can see that nothing is likely to foul under the cover of the body. We have oodles of room for an interior and that I have attempted to keep weight down as low as possible - except for the body mounts.... We can also see the spacers between each side of the crown and the inner axle bushes. They are packed so that there is less than 0.010 mm clearance on either side... in fact, the crown side was an interference fit, and I ran the axle for some minutes for it to make its own bed-in... the non-crown side had a clearance of less than 0.010 mm... I could not fit the 0.010 mm feeler gauge in the little clearance that was resident - and decided that I would go no further... The shaft of the motor does not touch the slot in the crown....... which I have been told is to be aimed for... not so bad if it does on the right side, as the shaft runs in the same direction as the face of the slot... but, on the left side - it runs opposite..... I have set up all three of these brass/piano wire chassis so that the slot runs clear of the axle shaft.... Finally - rear axle.... I marked out where the grub screws positioned themselves on the axle and ground the feintest of a flat .... for them to positively locate..... I like to add a dob of nail-polish to the top of the grub screws once everything has been running around for a while.... so that they can't back out..... it is easily removed with some acetone.... unlike Loctite 262 which I have used previously... and is a mongrel of thing to release.. I still have one wheel on one model which I have been unable to remove.. simply because the 262 has passed beyond the thread of the grub hole in the wheel.. and virtually welded the wheel to the axle... I won't repeat this in any future model.... nail polish sets hard, but it can easily be dissolved... just don't get it on your paint.. or Molotow! Pic... And what set of pix would be complete without one of the underside... I ran a piece of steel strip over both sides of the motor... and found that there is a distinct difference in magnet draw between the two different options. I chose to mount the motor with the underside having the least draw... I don't like track magnets - they are usually the first thing I remove from a new model once I get "under the hood".... We can see in this pic, that when I had the Dremel out and engraved my name and the date of manufacture into the front plate - my head was in a better place with this model than Cooper #2..... both completed in Mar.... and this year, it's just that the LJ was correctly dated 2021.... not 2020... as the folk at this year's Tasman Cup proxy will learn when my little entry arrives... and will logically be in the belief that the model is a year old.... no so.... Underside.... Ok... last little bit before we go back to work on the body.... motor. I'm darned well impressed!... to say the very least. This Slot-It Flat 6 motor is amazing.... I am yet to learn of how it performs on the track, but after fitting the pinion, meshing it to the crown and connecting up power to it for the first time today - I was amazed at how much braking this motor has on its own... without any controller input... it is quite stunning... and - as the name suggest... it seems to have a doubling of "poles"... hence perhaps the "6".... I was expecting it to need at least 3 or 4 volts before it began to turn the armature with the pinion and crown all hooked up... but no!... the rear wheels began to turn at just over 1 volt... it was well and truly coming into song on 3....... I ran it for a good 10 minutes at 3 volts, then dropped down to 1.5 for a few... up to 5 volts for a minute.. then back down to 3 volts for 30 minutes..... all the time polishing up the armature and brushes... I did not do my usual "naptho" to this motor... I don't believe the armature is anything but true... there is absolutely no vibration in the motor... very rare... it spins up very freely and almost comes to a stop as soon as power is removed..... but..... What probably amazed me more than anything - after an hour of running, and eventually giving it a peak at 12v for a few seconds every now and then... I was able to very carefully decrease power right down to just 0.3 of a volt.... absolutely no indication of any hesitation... just a solid continual ticking over of the armature.... maybe that "6" has something to do with that as well... I don't know... It has done about an hour on the bench - all the time connected through the pinion and crown with the wheels and tyres fitted... if anything, I believe it's even quieter now than when I first connected it up.. and it was darned quiet then...... This will not be the last of these motors I will purchase... and my mind is already starting to tally up how many I'll need for some of my older models.... The next XU-1 build will get the slightly less powerful of the two Flat 6 motors I have (well, you'd have to accept this as the LC XU-1 only had the 186 motor in it, the LJ - the 202... seems right, doesn't it?). I had the L-34 out on the weekend.. whilst doing some bedding in of Cooper #2 on a short Scalextric track.. by golly, that car is a dud......... it just 'lugs" and "loafs" around... it's not a pleasant model to drive... even now with it's correct "Marlboro" decalage.... it needs work - and much more than I have done previously.... The A9-X.... a vast improvement, but, I did a bit of work on that...... I left the factory tyres on it to "have some fun" as it was suggested to me... well, I've "had" my fun with those tyres.. and the MJK's will be going on pretty much as soon as I can find a window of opportunity to do so.... the model is good... the motor ever so much better than the L-34 slug .... In contrast - I took the XY GTHO of Allan Moffat out for a spin... straight out of the box - what a lovely "box" model that is.... anyone who bought the L-34 and one of the GT-HO's.... I bet that L-34 stayed in the box on most occasions that there was only one driver........ Ok.... so, that's about it... as stated many times over - you must really hate it when I go missing for a spell... I come back in "reams".... Until next... when we return to the body... where I will need help with correcting my body-centering/float issue... frats, Rosco
  • Create New...