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rosco01 last won the day on May 4

rosco01 had the most liked content!

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About rosco01

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    Kart Driver
  • Birthday 04/16/1955

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    Outer Eastern Subs, Melbourne

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  1. Hi fella's... I haven't had a look at getting into 3D printing yet, but it sure looks to be the way to go to get a model which is not available in any other way than scratch building it. Can someone kindly tell me what's involved with getting the software for a model?... Has anyone generated this from a line drawing etc? I have visions one day of finally building an EK sedan... as I have owned one for 48 years.... if anyone wants to give it a whirl, I'm quite prepared to do the filling and sanding involved then return the finished model for molding and casting... extending full owners rights to whoever does the printed model. I am impressed with the work done in this thread... it certainly makes life a lot easier and more accurate than simply carving something out of clay.. frats, Rosco
  2. Thanks Grant, will keep this in mind..... I do believe there is one modeling putty which is not suitable for molding as well... can't tell you what it was - but I got a bad reaction and it destroyed the mold..... something in it caused the catalyst to part with the silicone.... Dow Corning Silicone Type E... the type J was for making casts using hot metal... frats, Rosco
  3. Thanks Peter, didn't know about these pens... have just ordered one. I'd like to order the 30 ml refill so that I can use my airbrush to make home-made decals..... Like to see how wheel inserts come up when sprayed with an airbrush as well... All news to me - thanks for your reply.. frats, Rosco
  4. Nice work, Peter...... certainly has its butt on the ground... What did you use for the chrome? or was it part of the original model? frats, Rosco
  5. Grant, I've had this.... a long, long time ago.... from memory, there was something in the item to be molded that resulted in a reaction between the media and the item... it never cured out and I was very careful not to attempt to make a molding with any of the product exposed... I think it was in the areas where I had applied putty - but can't remember which putty it was....it was definitely a modeling putty... which one way back then.... anyone's guess. frats, Rosco
  6. Shaken, not stirred.....
  7. Thanks Chris.... yes, the thinner you can apply paint - the more detail remains.... I use grey usually, but might give the pink a go when next I spray a red model.... What sort of a ratio do you thin your primer to?.... I have a little system that works for me for consistency..... and, I expect you are using an airbrush - not an aerosol? I use a great little single action Badger 200... had it for nearly 30 years - lost in modeling without it. frats, Rosco
  8. Looks great, Chris.... deepening those shut lines certainly adds detail to the finish.... In modeling railway, we use a product called a "wash"... you probably know of it, or indeed use it...... it goes on after the colour coats and accents lines like this.. it's great for things like vents and other fine detail which is too small to open out... Can you kindly tell me what the primer is?.. I don't know of one in lavender/pink... intriqued. frats, Rosco
  9. That motor is indeed huge, Chris..... were they the "go to" motor of the day... I remember the one in the friend of my friend's Cheetah being huge compared to our little Scalextric ones.... it was a thumpin' motor - it "leapt" when the go trigger was pushed... Thanks for the pix of your black Cheetah... it looks slightly metallic... couldn't see your fingerprint.. far too much shine on the model... Ride height - yes, and to leave enough for an interior.. had much the same issue with building the little T-53 Cooper... not much of the driver left with him sitting almost armpit high in motor.... Those wheels! you have to be happy with those.....? they look amazing. frats, Rosco
  10. Pretty much summed me up Chris... I don't know much of Cox... but remember a friend had a black Cheetah when I was about 15 (50 years ago) and it had a "Cox" motor in it... the thing went like stink, but it had pre-load issues between the pinion and crown... I wasn't allowed to "look" at it - because I then found out it wasn't his.. but another "friend" who had loaned it to him.... since then, I've been keen to get a black cheetah... I bought three different colored Carrera ones (which run great, but have terrible tyres) and later an MRRC black one... it was a shocker of a car... but the body is great.... another one I did a lot of work on the chassis and fitted Slot-It running gear... that is a great car now... My history is basically all Scalextric... it wasn't until my return to slot cars about 4 or so years back, that I became aware that there are now so many different brands on offer.... and some of them are simply remarkable... Slot-It being my best OOB... Carrera have exquisite detail and are almost bullet proof for OOB running... but are not "performance" .... So - no, not fully conversant with vintage Cox slot cars..... but, I do fully appreciate why you are using the different sized crowns for wheel height when scratch building chassis... I have taken note of this.... thanks for expanding. frats, Rosco
  11. rosco01

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    Hi Alan, I've been hitting the "Activity" icon... brings up everything which has been posted since my last visit... but I check that box too... you can choose how you get updates.. I believe the default should allow you to view all of them... just click on "Activity". frats, Rosco
  12. I love the T-70, Chris.... I have the Flyslot later version - great body - chassis was almost useless.. now lives with an almost entire Slot-It assembly on what is left of the plastic chassis... and - that was "reset' to get it perfectly flat ... the "hot water bath" trick.... Those wheels - stunning... by golly, they will look amazing on this model..... another one of your brilliant builds in the making.... One question, those gear wheels?.... are they scratchbuilder jig wheels? or have you just fitted four sidewinder gear wheels to get the wheel height for chassis building? My jig is a long way off getting to me yet... takes weeks to come down here from the US.... don't know why, stuff from Canada (Paul Gage) came in just on a week.... There is a huge backload of parcels around the world at present... I'm quite happy to wait, just a little anxious to finally get my jig here so that I can start work... I now have the 0.55 wire.. and heaps of brass strip in varying sizes... ready to go with my build... Looking forward to this build - hope you post regular updates.... please... frats, Rosco
  13. Bugga...... I bet you started to twinge as the last of the silicone poured in.... always comes to mind - will I have enough, maybe just, I don't think so, maybe... then the last drop falls out of the container and you realise you didn't..... good move with the drills and balsa... Hindsight is a marvelous thing, Grant..... you've got a big pool there for one smaller car..... smaller pond might fix the issue next time. Do you know how much you mixed up?... if so, measure how many leggo blocks were used and it will be a useful guide for the next one... As for adding GP silicone.. I'm going to have to leave that for the experts... I've never done it. Most of my molds were simply flat panel on glass plate.... the highest I ever came up off the plate was about 15 mm.... nothing like a slot car body... frats, Rosco
  14. thanks Jacob...... and SlotzNZ..... lots to learn. The option to post direct seems to have disappeared - maybe it was "sussed"... Great work, fella's.. frats, Rosco
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