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Wobble

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Posts posted by Wobble


  1. 2 hours ago, Smithy said:

    Has anyone purchased the Scalextric C4219 TransAm Hemi Cuda #48 Gurney? Is it like the new mould that Scalextric have used for the footprint? Interested in buying but I think it might not be as wide as what they should be

    Yep, got one, 148mm long, 60.5mm wide and I've replaced the wheels with smaller diameter wheels in keeping with other T/A's and have approx 58.8mm width at outside of rear tyres.

    • Like 1

  2. 1 hour ago, Oldskool62 said:

    Mine gets thrown in the deep end today and raced against the local guys in the Trans Am class. 

    @Wobblethanks for the set up tips.

    In the deep end eh? Well good luck with that and playing with the big boys. Hope you noticed the small print. There's no money back guarantee with this one, but then it wouldn't have cost too much anyway.

    • Like 1

  3. 1 hour ago, Oldskool62 said:

    @WobbleI'll hold 5 on the sanding of the MJK's. Found a set of tyres for the front that does the job. Also put ting some weight in the magnet pocket as you suggest. I take it goes in the original magnet location right at the rear behind the motor?

    @mattcrackersLooks awesome Matt. Not sure which part number you used on the rear but I have 4811's on mine and it looks slightly lower profile than the ones you have and fit good.

    Once I learn how to post pictures I'll put some up. :)

     

    Cheers 

    Warren

     

    I put the piece of lead in the magnet pocket just in front of the motor. Truthfully, I didn't even notice a magnet pocket under the rear axle and had to look at the photos to check it out.

    Also, you'll need to use a photo hosting site and Postimages is easy as - Postimages — free image hosting / image upload  -

     

    • Like 1

  4. 1 hour ago, Oldskool62 said:

    @WobbleBar sanding  the new MJK rears, its ready for a test. Thanks again.

    NB: Did you use any weight? The 1st pic looks like weight under the car.

     

    Yep I noticed that in the photo but there is nothing there, just the refection playing silly buggers. However there is  some weight; a bit of lead in the magnet pocket the same size as a magnut. The weight is 85 grams all up with 52g over the rear axle.

    ps Have you tried MJK's without sanding them but just rounding the edges a bit? If your wheels are reasonably true they are as sticky as. I've put them on cars with only the centres touching 1-2mm and they have almost too much grip.

    • Like 1

  5. Best of luck with yours Matt. And, a couple of things I forgot to mention and that is the removal of the little man thingy on the top of the motor and any bits and bobs under the tray of the interior above the motor that can hinder lowering. Also, I replaced the front axle with piano wire so it's easier to true the front tyres. The silver marks on the front tyres (3rd pickie) show the lined up wheels when put back on the piano wire axle after truing.

    • Like 2

  6. 4 hours ago, Oldskool62 said:

    @Wobble I'd love a few pointers on getting them right as they are also one of my favorites as well. I have a HQ Monaro at home that I put a HRS2 chassis under but also have another body to do so thanks for the heads up about the Cougar chassis.

     

    No problems, this was the most recent so I can recall better what's happened. I can't do a before and after but here is the end result. The quickest of mine can hold their own with the Scalex Camaro's and Pioneer T/A's I race against. What can't be seen is de-wobbling the standard guide (remove about 0.5mm from the top of the stem and don't tighten screw too tight (gorse pockets again)) and only the rear facing layer of braid under the guide plate. edit Also turn down the standard front tyres or use something smaller.

    DSCF2919.jpg

    and the process which isn't as bad as it looks. The chassis. Cut off each end as per pickies (I used a razor saw), shave/file/sand a bit off each side between the wheels (green arrows) and file off cups on chassis mounts (blue arrows).

    DSCF2916.jpg

    DSCF2917.jpg

    Under the body. Glue the ends into the body (green arrows), shave off the sides of the interior (red arrows) to allow it to sit down in the chassis and take about 2mm (+or -) off front body posts to suit.

    DSCF2916-Copy.jpg

    • Like 2

  7. Thanks for that Oldskool62. I wanted to get one of these - Scalextric Chevrolet Camaro IROC No.33 SCCA Trans-AM (C4220) (pendleslotracing.co.uk) - and so far they're a no-show here and I didn't want to miss out so I took the plunge and added a Scaley Cougar chassis to the list. I like their Cougar and have 5 different liveries of them and have no problems getting them to go well. Sure it takes a bit of time and effort but definitely worth it as they go real good if you get it right and can hold their own against other standard s/w chassis'd 18k T/A cars. Also, I've got gorse in my pockets and would rather fiddle with a car than throw heaps of dosh at it to get it going well. The Cougar chassis has the right wheelbase for the HQ Monaro body I have and the width of the axles suit it too, and I'd like similar performance at the end of the day.

    • Like 1

  8. While waiting for the garage to do a WOF today I visited the local Warehouse to fill in time and this is what I found.

    Mako Mako Quick Change Drill Handle | The Warehouse -

    It's got a 'three gripping collet on head' which is basically a miniature drill chuck and includes 9 drill bits. It feels as good as a pin vice that I paid more than 3x the amount which can't take anywhere near the range of drill sizes.


  9. Hi Ross, although I don't recall having any problems with the interior of mine it had quite a weak motor instead. Needless to say I replaced it but I used a Piranha 21.5 instead, and it must be a strong one as it really flies now and it doesn't need any added ballast as my Slot.it versions required.

    • Like 1

  10. Seeing the post Gazza added with the Bartlett Camaro got me thinking about something to do with Pioneer motors that I'd like to ask about. It's some time since this thread was current but I've been having the odd run with this car and recently dropped a Pioneer motor into it and now it can lap the track where I race as quickly as any of my Slot.it Group C cars and LMP's and it's quite a long track. My quickest cars usually take about 8.3 - 8.5 secs per lap. I remember reading somewhere about Pioneer's 18k motor specs and seem to recall that the output of one version was getting up there towards Slot.it's orange endbell of the time. There used to be a 'small p' version and a 'big P' version among others and it would be good to check it out if anyone can recall reading this post as well and knows where it is.


  11. 35 minutes ago, SlotsNZ said:

    Can’t believe what I saw Monsignor Kennedy do at 7:10

    I propose a posse to USA and a kangaroo court to convict him of “crimes against tuning”

     

    That's how I used to do my proxy cars before I built my 'steam punk' as you called it, tyre truer. I always wondered why they went better around left hand bends than right handers.

    • Like 1
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