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big den

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Everything posted by big den

  1. Hi Tony, I bought parts from Atomic some years ago but in more recent times I've experienced a similar problem to you - no response to email queries about parts etc. When the website started showing Cyrillic (Russian) characters in my browser I decided to give it a wide berth. Den
  2. Bov, It could be a Concours score, or perhaps the value of the 'unmarked currency' attached to the cars. Den
  3. Hi Rosco, I endorse the comments of the blokes who have mentioned Plafit gears as an alternative for 3 mm axles, and have actually fitted a Plafit spur and pinion to one of my Revoslot Ferrari 333SP. I mentioned the Plafit pinion as well as the spur gear as you have to ensure that both have the same pitch i.e. teeth per inch, and some times there are subtle differences that may affect gear mesh. Has the change of ratio worked? Having had very little opportunity to check lap times in the past couple of years 'the jury' is still out. In regard to the 'wrong-sided' hub on the MR spur gear Ninco actually made angle-cut spur gears with the hub in the same orientation as the MR. However, I am not sure whether spur gears are exactly 3/32nd bore or whether they are 2.50 mm bore as was Ninco's custom in their early years. Den
  4. Thanks for the news Munter, sad as it is. I did a spot of Googling, including on Slotforum, and there are plenty of details about the new operator, who by all accounts is continuing Bruno's legacy. As I mentioned in my previous post Bruno came across as a real 'gentilhomme' who delivered great products very promptly, and always included a 'Thank You' note with his shipments. My tyres box proudly carries his Slotcarstyres sticker. Den
  5. FYI Munter, If Slotcarstyres.com (Bruno) in France is the one you're referring to I believe he closed his business a year or so back for family reasons. I've bought quite a few sets of tyres from him over the years and always had great service from him. I recently got some MJK tyres to restore some Marusan F1 cars but that's still a 'works in progress'. The MJK 1:32 tyres I've used on various cars have always performed well. Den
  6. Hi fellas, I'm not involved in this proxy but having just recently found an Australian source for Predator motors I'm eager to able to get to a track to test them out. An 18K motor for around $16 and the 22K double ball-race version for just on $20 make them very appealing. Den
  7. Thanks for the info Matt. Although I probably wouldn't compete the event may just be the nudge I need to have a holiday. I'm not a great sight-seer but traveling to an event that is part of my hobby-sport sound appealing. Den
  8. Hello Folks I'm planning to set up a small Carrera oval as a test track and would like to be able to connect the standard 'terminal track' straight track to a variable power supply, and to also be able to use my Professor Motor and DS hand-controllers. I'd prefer to leave the existing Carrera power supply and controllers leads intact, so I'm wondering if anyone might have any spare leads from a power supply and controllers that may have passed their use-by date? Alternatively, does anyone know what commercially available connectors that I could use to make my own 'patch leads'? Den
  9. How about these 'Scalextric' gems? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/185316534079?hash=item2b25b9e73f:g:LisAAOSwL69iGv9C Den
  10. Now that I've had a few days to pick myself up off the floor Mal, my very AMATEUR opinion is that I always felt I had better low-speed control with the thumb-style controller. The bio-mechanics experts will probably have a different opinion and I have even heard discussions about which of your 'trigger fingers' gives you the optimum level of control. To explain my preference it is important to note that the era when I was using thumb controllers was almost exclusively involved with 1:24 scale cars on larger tracks than we deal with in our current Tasmanian 1:32 scale racing. It must also be taken into account that the 'resistor' controllers I was using, say 20 to 25 years ago, did not have the almost infinite range of adjustments that have been incorporated into our current crop of electronic controllers. In the end it comes down to what the individual feels comfortable with, but it is worth noting that a New Zealander, Dave Gick, had considerable international success using a thumb-style controller ... although it was probably a far different beast than the vintage models we have seen displayed in this thread. The passing of time also affects our own personal capacities. The 30-minute driving stints in enduros that I could handle during the 1990s are long gone! Den
  11. Ebay, entertaining? At times, Yes, but with the capacity to be infuriating, confusing and just plain dumb as well. I'm currently looking to buy some decal preparation and finishing products (5 items) but Ebay wants to charge me separate postage on each small item, telling me that I "can't request an invoice total on items that require immediate payment". In other words "Buy It Now" rather than Auction transactions. So I will approach the retailer privately, ask for a combined postage deal, and Ebay will get Zero in fees. In another twist to the system a 'seller' offered me (supposedly) better prices if I dealt direct because there would be no 'third party fees' involved. But when it came to nitty gritty the prices were exactly the same as on Ebay and the postage was more expensive. Den
  12. Vintage??? Doesn't seem all that long ago that I was using an MRC 15-ohm 'thumb controller' at the Hobart tracks - a little bit before 'Malomay' joined the the group. From memory it ended up playing havoc with the track power so I had to get me one of those newfangled Professor Motor controllers. Going a bit further back to the late 1990s I remember using an MRRC 5-ohm controller (similar to the Cox design) in the last bracket (heat) of a 12-hour race at a commercial raceway, much to the amusement and amazement of the younger drivers present. After finishing my driving stint I was surprised when my teammates told me to leave it plugged in so they could have a go with the ancient controller. It survived the full 90 minutes of the bracket without overheating or any other dramas. Den
  13. Hello Paul, I am not entirely sure but looking at the 9.6 mm version of these inserts the pattern looks very much like the front wheels of early Scalextric F1 (and other) cars. If so there are probably bucket-loads of them among your club members' collections. Den
  14. As someone who is involved with clubs that race a variety of 'vintage' categories using cars that the manufacturers no longer support in terms of spare parts (tyres included) I have found MJK tyres to have good track-holding performance. My Ninco vintage sports cars, Pioneer Trans-Ams, Carrera NASCARs and Revell-Monogram 'Stockers' are examples of cars that have shown noticeable improvement when MJK tyres have been used to replace the originals. I haven't had any trouble with trueing MJKs with fond memories of the piles of white 'debris' that accumulate during the process. The only drawbacks I have found can be in the 'supply chain' where I have had to purchase small quantities from multiple sources, which can be rather expensive in regard to freight/postage costs. It is not uncommon to find that a retailer or wholesaler might list the part numbers that I am seeking, only to add those three words that cause despair to customers everywhere : "OUT OF STOCK" Den
  15. Hello davo43 Even if you do find that a particular motor (or motors) run faster in one direction, in practical terms there is little you can do to take advantage of the fact. In a sidewinder or angle-winder chassis that has the gear positioned next to the left rear wheel (when viewed from above) the motor will need to turn clockwise in order for the car to move forward. If you were to change the lead-wires over so that (potentially) the motor would run faster it would then turn anti-clockwise and the car would speed off in 'reverse gear'. In an inline configuration you may have the option of putting the crown gear closest to the left rear wheel but in most modern, mass-produced inline chassis there is a recess for the gear closest to the right rear wheel. You would have to modify the chassis to accommodate the gear if you were to move it to the left side. To gain advantage from a motor that revs faster when going 'the wrong way' you would need to scratch-build a chassis that has the gear positioned on the 'best revving' side. Den
  16. Do you happen to have a link to the appropriate eBay site, DM? Thanks Den
  17. big den

    Adapter Sleeves

    Thanks a lot Chris. For some reason I had a fixation on using a round file where the square one makes more sense. Den
  18. big den

    Adapter Sleeves

    Thanks for the suggestions chaps ... I wasn't thinking of 3D printed sleeves as an option, Shayne, for the reason Chris has stated. Chris, I think 'our' Mr. SlotCar in Victoria had them listed several months ago but not now. I have previously made my own but with my very basic tools it was quite a job ... I think I may have over-complicated the process by tapping threads in the sleeves for the set-screws/grub screws? I don't watch Ozzie football or much TV of any description (too many unfinished slot car projects!) but have decided DYI is probably the best option for getting the sleeves done. And cheaper too, as they were $2 each. I was thinking of using a small rat-tail file but may try the Dremel too. Den
  19. big den

    Adapter Sleeves

    Does anyone know of a slot car 'retailer in Australia or New Zealand that stocks the Parma Gear Sleeve (Part No 70239)? I have lots of wheels made for 1/8 axles that I would like to convert for 3/32 axles. In the past I have made my own by using 3/32 ID brass tubing but find it time consuming and not always precise due to my lack of workshop facilities and skill. Den
  20. Hello Mark I accept the science of what you wrote in the previous post. However, the practical point I was wishing to make in my July 3rd post was the importance of having the correct wiring in place to provide braking capability on a slot car track. The desired effect is to slow down the motor, regardless of whether a force is being applied to the motor, or whether the motor is applying the force to itself i.e. by attempting 'to become a generator'. Interestingly 3 of the local tracks in Northern Tasmania are fitted with 'variable brake knobs' that allow people with basic hand controllers to have adjustable braking available to them. Some people actually prefer ZERO brakes! Occasionally I get caught out by not returning the knob to the 'FULL ON' position when I am racing. Den
  21. Hi Gazza, Amazing how some sellers seem to go out of their way to find the most expensive postage options. While 'peterspares' offers express postage for $81.58 other sellers with links on the same page have postage at around $9 to $10 and estimate that the delivery time will only be a week longer. Of course if you were really that desperate for an S-Can motor you would probably just go and buy a complete car from a local seller or hobby shop. I would also advise buyers intending to to buy from GB that they make sure of the 'combined postage' rules before purchasing multiple items. A few years ago I got badly 'burned' when buying some repro Scalextric items. Only after I committed to purchase did I learn that each tiny item had postage calculated separately. A parcel that weighed 'nothing' and was roughly the size of three (3) matchboxes laid end to end cost me more than $50. Den
  22. G'day Matt, Here's one for you. Just saw a Marusan 1:24 Cooper on Ebay, with the Atlas-type 'open frame' motor. A real steal at $329. Wish he had two!! Den
  23. Hi Caddo, Have you checked out MJK in Adelaide? They have a wide variety of tyres for 1:24 and 1:32. And I don't know if AMR (Adelaide Model Raceway) are still making tyres but I bought 1:24 stuff from them way back in the 1990s. Pattos Place used to stick both of these brands. Den
  24. G'day Matt I think what you've encountered here is the age-old identity crisis of Atlas versus Marusan, USA versus Japan. Both companies used almost identical packaging with only the names changed to protect the innocent ... or perhaps the guilty? I'm fairly certain that the wheels on your Brabhams with those odd-looking oversized 'knock-offs' are Japanese in origin ... I've seen them before. While Munter has commented that the wheels appear to be on backwards I'm not sure that I agree either... they would look even more ridiculous if they were the other way round. Perhaps the best way to determine whether they are Marusan or Atlas is to check the axle diameter ... Japanese manufacturers used 3mm, US manufacturers used 1/8th. Den
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