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big den

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big den last won the day on February 8

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About big den

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  1. Do you happen to have a link to the appropriate eBay site, DM? Thanks Den
  2. big den

    Adapter Sleeves

    Thanks a lot Chris. For some reason I had a fixation on using a round file where the square one makes more sense. Den
  3. big den

    Adapter Sleeves

    Thanks for the suggestions chaps ... I wasn't thinking of 3D printed sleeves as an option, Shayne, for the reason Chris has stated. Chris, I think 'our' Mr. SlotCar in Victoria had them listed several months ago but not now. I have previously made my own but with my very basic tools it was quite a job ... I think I may have over-complicated the process by tapping threads in the sleeves for the set-screws/grub screws? I don't watch Ozzie football or much TV of any description (too many unfinished slot car projects!) but have decided DYI is probably the best option for getting the sleeves done. And cheaper too, as they were $2 each. I was thinking of using a small rat-tail file but may try the Dremel too. Den
  4. big den

    Adapter Sleeves

    Does anyone know of a slot car 'retailer in Australia or New Zealand that stocks the Parma Gear Sleeve (Part No 70239)? I have lots of wheels made for 1/8 axles that I would like to convert for 3/32 axles. In the past I have made my own by using 3/32 ID brass tubing but find it time consuming and not always precise due to my lack of workshop facilities and skill. Den
  5. Hello Mark I accept the science of what you wrote in the previous post. However, the practical point I was wishing to make in my July 3rd post was the importance of having the correct wiring in place to provide braking capability on a slot car track. The desired effect is to slow down the motor, regardless of whether a force is being applied to the motor, or whether the motor is applying the force to itself i.e. by attempting 'to become a generator'. Interestingly 3 of the local tracks in Northern Tasmania are fitted with 'variable brake knobs' that allow people with basic hand controllers to have adjustable braking available to them. Some people actually prefer ZERO brakes! Occasionally I get caught out by not returning the knob to the 'FULL ON' position when I am racing. Den
  6. Hi Gazza, Amazing how some sellers seem to go out of their way to find the most expensive postage options. While 'peterspares' offers express postage for $81.58 other sellers with links on the same page have postage at around $9 to $10 and estimate that the delivery time will only be a week longer. Of course if you were really that desperate for an S-Can motor you would probably just go and buy a complete car from a local seller or hobby shop. I would also advise buyers intending to to buy from GB that they make sure of the 'combined postage' rules before purchasing multiple items. A few years ago I got badly 'burned' when buying some repro Scalextric items. Only after I committed to purchase did I learn that each tiny item had postage calculated separately. A parcel that weighed 'nothing' and was roughly the size of three (3) matchboxes laid end to end cost me more than $50. Den
  7. G'day Matt, Here's one for you. Just saw a Marusan 1:24 Cooper on Ebay, with the Atlas-type 'open frame' motor. A real steal at $329. Wish he had two!! Den
  8. Hi Caddo, Have you checked out MJK in Adelaide? They have a wide variety of tyres for 1:24 and 1:32. And I don't know if AMR (Adelaide Model Raceway) are still making tyres but I bought 1:24 stuff from them way back in the 1990s. Pattos Place used to stick both of these brands. Den
  9. G'day Matt I think what you've encountered here is the age-old identity crisis of Atlas versus Marusan, USA versus Japan. Both companies used almost identical packaging with only the names changed to protect the innocent ... or perhaps the guilty? I'm fairly certain that the wheels on your Brabhams with those odd-looking oversized 'knock-offs' are Japanese in origin ... I've seen them before. While Munter has commented that the wheels appear to be on backwards I'm not sure that I agree either... they would look even more ridiculous if they were the other way round. Perhaps the best way to determine whether they are Marusan or Atlas is to check the axle diameter ... Japanese manufacturers used 3mm, US manufacturers used 1/8th. Den
  10. big den


    I agree Kevan. To say there are only 4 cars in the Revoslot range vastly understates the variety that is available. Four GT2s yes, but how many different liveries? One of the clubs that I race at had 15 entries for its Revo GT2 series and every livery was different. Recently club members were asked for their thoughts on a new class and I suggested Revo LMP/GT1. I counted 25 different combinations of 333SP, F40, Toyota GT1, Porsche GT1 and Mercedes CLK, when you take into account different liveries and white kits. I have no objection to enterprising enthusiasts fitting different bodies if they are prepared to do the work. Den
  11. Hi Shayne, The difference is exactly where (or if) the red wire (brake) is installed within the track wiring. When you release the trigger (hopefully) you activate what is known as 'dynamic braking' in which a reverse current is applied to the motor thus slowing it down. If the brake wire isn't installed in the correct position there isn't any dynamic braking and the car will just coast rather than brake. (as was the case at my local track until February this year). The tracks I first ran at in the 1960s used a 2-pin connector for the controller to plug into, with a separate terminal that you could connect your 'loose' brake wire to for braking. The clever boys of that era quickly found out that by incorporating a 9-volt battery in series in the brake wire they could have 'power braking'. The early Scalextric power supplies only had two terminals for connecting power to the track but with an after-market MRRC controller (or similar) you could have braking by connecting the third (brake) wire to one of those terminals. Den
  12. Hi again r377, I have four (4) Revoslot cars and haven't noticed any problems with the braking - excepting, of course, when the defective 'pot' was still fitted. A few more questions come to mind : Is anyone else having problems with the braking on your track? Have you tried using another controller? Have other people driven your cars with their controllers? And as silly as it may sound, is the wiring on your track set up for braking? I can tell your that one of the tracks that I race on in my local area DID NOT have 'built-in' braking until the track-owner rewired the track earlier this year. Den
  13. I agree with Phil. I suffered (what I think is) the same problem ... all OK when using maximum brake but 'free wheeling' as soon as I started to reduce brake. My friendly neighborhood 'Phil' diagnosed the problem and replaced the pot for me. Den
  14. Make sure they are well glued down Phil. There may be a ham-fisted 'Northerner' doing marshaling duties. Den
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