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About out2passya

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    Video Game Driver

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  1. magnets? what are they :lol awaiting a wide angle lens to arrive to help alleviate the vomitron
  2. And this is how I mated the scaley to mdf sections and wiring. Shown here as an after thought. In the real deal the scaley track has its pins removed and just sits flush up agains the mdf. Being 4 lane the woods weight pretty much holds it in place. The scaley tongues are a neat fit into the mdf. There is sideways motion but no up down. This makes sure the track surfaces are flush. You can see from the in car video the transition is ultra smooth. its all about accuracy peeps.
  3. Newark Raceway. Approx 13m of track. on a 1.7mx4.4m board sitting on tables. The four lane grid is routered (well actually table sawed) MDF. We dont have pit lane game yet. SSDC is on its way. It has two straights, the grid straight being slightly shorter. The objective was to to have pace but also a real boys 2 men technical section. The shank is a show stopper and watching the cars thru the Spoon (esses) is just awesome. (see videos) Cars avg around 10sec. 3 crossovers, 1 rh in to out, 1 lh in to out and a rh out to in. The two bends balaclava and hairpin are drift corners ie no barriers. The boarders on these two, the shank (grey blocks)and some of the spoon were made from 9mm mdf. Eventually we will rid ourselves of the scaely boarders entirely. Power supply is variable 20amp moded APB6. Two boosters. APB6 was separated from its sensor track for convince. Self marshalled , we all pickup up after each other. The driver spots are located around the track. for video clips Drivers veiws, slow motion etc see https://www.youtube.com/user/mdsmedia9?feature=watch
  4. Hi all, Not a world stopper but a simple solution. Sorry for the quality of pictures. We are still messing with track layouts so the usual booster track with holes In the board, underneath leading the wires away was not an option. I needed to get the wires out the side and still have the track sit flat on the boards. The tabs under the track are a standard small quick connect, these I had and so for one connection job done. Its wire comes out thru molded half circle in the track edge. The other connection tho is a problem. You have to get the wire from the "inner" side of the track out. So I bent up some 0.4mm brass shim(model shops should have this) soldered it to the scaley tab and it provides a normal sized quick connect tab. Even at only 0.4mm tho the brass still raises the track. With a little bit of heat (soldering iron resting on the top of the brass) and pushing gently down you can melt the shim into the plastic that encases the guide slot. I put a lollypop(icepole) stick in the slot before I did this to make sure the melting process did not cause a bulge in the slot. Your only melting it down 0.4mm so its quite easy. File a way a second half circle to take the wire out of. A few dabs of hot glue to be sure and its back to racing. Currently the wires for each track come out on opposite sides. But I can see no reason why I couldnt make a long shim for one of them and allow all wires to exit on the same side.
  5. Limited edition simply means, limited by how many they think they can sell
  6. ahh an old trechnology the digi chip takes care of all that once you replace the old current hungry rear leds and liliput bulbs with new smell of an electron rag LEDs
  7. This will be a nice set up. 3hour round trip? wow I used to complain about my 1hour run to bunnings, now its only about 10min.
  8. this was one of the old orginal set cars we had. It was our pride n joy back 20 years ago. Could see no reason to not give her a new lease of life. digitised with saloon chip and lights. I did change the liliput bulbs for blue leds tho...cause i can...and its kewl
  9. thanks all, I ended up not waiting (we had a race on this sat) needed it fast. A mate at work helped me turn some up out of aluminium. Ended up about twice as heavy as the plastic ones. The lambo still rips around like a pocket rocket tho So does not feel like its made a bad difference and certainly will last a whole lot.....forever
  10. Hi keith, fellow cranbournite I see and running the same gear! Im intersate for a bit soon but will have to catch up when I get back welcome to the money sink
  11. Ok brother calls and tells me the lambo wheel just came off. I never liked the knurled scaley axles and looking at the lambo hub its a thin thin walled plastic. Im racer not a "keep it original and looking nice" kinda guy so Im thinking.. To ally or not to ally. ie slowly replace the breaks as they come with new standard fitting common axles n hubs so in the long run I dont have to stock differnt tyre sizes etc. So is there a nice pretty basic solid plastic or ally axle hub kit that will fit the likes of Lambos and basic saloon cars.?
  12. Ok my second attempt at chipping, this time it involved micro surgery. I had seen an F1 chipped mini but I wanted to see if I could get a saloon chip in and all the lights functioning. The mini is a nice detailed semi limited edition from Scaley. Comes in a pack of 3. Not the most agile of cars as it tend to roll(top heavy) rather than slide (very thin tyres) but still fun to race. At present you can see the Saloon chip thru the rear window, I was going to put in a false bottom to cover this up. A job for another day. The board just fits between the wheel base, I did nibble one of the tags off but I dont think its really necessary. There is just enough clearance on the crown wheel to IR LED wire. The trick with this is accurate and very accurate cutting of the boot section of the Mini. The chip floats above the chassis on its wires but is pinned in position by the cut out of the boot once the body goes on. The cut out was accomplished with dremel and scalpel. Wires are extended and fed down either side of the motor. IR LED is removed from its board (keep the polarity right lads) and hot glued into the provided hole(this was the hole the minis are mounted to the packaging with.) Remove the white cable connector and solder the wires straight into the PCB. The connector is just too bulky. Put a slice of tape across the motor where the wires might touch it. You may notice the capacitor(metal can) has a "lid" This plastic self sticky foot not only insulates the metal can but helps it hover above the chassis. The PCB holds in place rather well via the wires and you can easily locate it in the boot as you place the body back on. So far testing went perfect, changed lanes kept ID, shes not a drifter, tends more to just roll :lol but a nice little goer. the lights look fab especially under breaks going into a corner. 1 down 2 more to go
  13. I cant think of an easy electronic trick to slow a pace car down without having location tracking of some sort ie just way more complication. I do have a nagging "what if I use an accelerometer inside the car, a bit like a gyro in a model helicopter keeps it straight" to try and predict a problem and thus overide/slow down. But again that aint going to be simple. Back to reality... We often race with pace cars also and the above comments pretty much handle the simple solutions; dont do hairpins or increase traction on the pace cars. Racing a non mag up a gainst a magged pace car can be fun for example. I have also noticed the pace cars can slow down even after only 10 or so laps. As yet(iSSD is all still new to us ) I havent investigated this further but its on the todo list.
  14. yep one of the PS was DOA. Dealer replaced no probs.
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