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Everything posted by jasonk1970

  1. Plafit RTR chassis is only $120 complete with foam tyres and motor and you don't have to change anything. http://acehobbies.com.au/store/product_info.php?cPath=25_28_85&products_id=861
  2. Guys up here just love our GT cars, there is Group 5 class in the rules and they get raced a few times a year and i agree they do look great. GTJ (hard body model kits) has been popular as has FLM (lexan, guess its just what different people like to run. The track makes a difference as well our tracks are slower and technical so hard body racing makes for the best racing. On a faster track then the lexan cars are probably a different way to go. Brisbane scene is more about model car building than going fast and the GT cars just seem to look the best on track in our opinion. Naranga run FJ lexan bodies on plafit chassis and they are a load of fun. Here are some pics of my cars and bodies some of which now have new homes on plafit chassis unless rules don't allow.
  3. taking on board the suggestions I have now put two coats of colour on 24 hours apart and sanding with 1500 between. I am pretty happy with how it has come up. Paint is a little thick over some of the finer details but for a first attempt a model worthy paint job I am really happy. As a note I am using the export brand from supercheap mainly because I liked the particular colour red my local shop had Just wondering if I should glue the chrome parts on before or after I clear coat? Sorry Ben not meaning to hijack your thread, looking forward to see how yours comes out.
  4. Painting for some people is a problem and many dont want to pay what's its worth to do one. Scale auto is not a class that is run here in Brisbane, just a handful of guys on the gold coast. Modern GT is a very popular class but cost are very high especially for a newcomer. GT in 1/32 and mini-z are our biggest clases and the focus here is on scale hard body cars so hence the GT3 class for cost effective 1/24 racing. lexan bodies just aernt popular due to their lack of detail so we use lexan for the classes where hard body is hard to get, historic, f1 and film LeMans cars.
  5. tony the class already exists its called historics. Everybody has to run the exact same chassis engine etc and they run a lexan body and look fantastic and will out perform any other class of car they are cost effective and easy to build. There is no need to re-invent the wheel. Rules for all plafit and open class rules are here: https://plus.google.com/photos/100400793531523576905/albums?banner=pwa Idea of gt3 is to attract guys that want a ready to run car and don't want to paint a body and I is a stater class, some of us fast guys have built them to generate interest and to help the new guys along. You would know this Kim if you had of taken part in any level of plafit racing over the last two years.
  6. do you sand between coats? and if so with what grade paper? I am building a 1/24 mini and have under coated in with two coats of under coat but it doesn't look smooth
  7. as usual a thread has been ripped down by the haters and knockers. this thread was those people interested in the class not for people to knock it and give their opinion of other classes. Just to clarify you can get one of these on track for around $200 with all the parts no extras needed they run full interior and come with foam trued tyres front and rear. They don't need to be trued or straightened and all parts are quality ready to race. Was not intended to be compared to scaleuto class but if you must they seem to lap a little faster than one and only 4 tenths off a Modern GT time.
  8. can you do me two in 1/24 scale they are awesome, need them for some historic cars I am building?
  9. The chassis being used is the latest release of the plafit chassis. Base plate is longer and thicker has blue t-plate, has adjusters that can run double spring cups which allows you to run two springs in the front end. Its the big brother to the historic chassis. These two chassis have set lap records at all the tracks in brisbane and that is against all the European chassis in various different classes including open chassis its not the same old.
  10. Well done simon "I love you man". And well done Andrew for building some very fast cars......lol
  11. Browns plains raceway called is called thunder alley. Have stock of all parts also two tracks and a drag strip you can find them on Facebook as to speak to muddy he will help you out. Raced grp12 cars there today
  12. looking for 1/24 scale plastic kit or resin body only, will be gong on a metal chassis
  13. want to do something other than a Porsche 917 or a gt40 have been done to death
  14. I want to build up a Rear Engine Race Car from the 60's up til 1974 and want to do something different. What are some suggestions as to a cool model and where could I get one?
  15. already looking forward to next year.... new 1/32 Div 1 body about to mount and start testing.
  16. Finally finished my BMW GT3 car and did some testing at Narangba. Started with 13mm tyres and the car was good but lacked a little grip in slow speed corners with the weight of the body (61g) making it slide around on corner exit. I built it with all original parts supplied in the kit including the large spacers for the H-Plate. I changed to a 16mm tyre and put 1.9mm spacer at back of H-Plate and this made the car much better, it drove fast corners like a mini-Z and had much better traction in slower corners. It will still step out under acceleration but I think high torque of Fox IV motor and heavy body will just be a trait of these cars. Best thing about the way these cars will handle will be that the sprung front end when tuned correctly wont roll out of the slot like the scaleauto cars do, slide spring forward to stiffen up and backwards to soften. Found I had mount front axle holders opposite to what I normally do to get enough guide clearance for the short nose on the BMW and also assembled body mounts upside down to get body to sit at right height without using any spacers. Was surprised how smooth the car is despite having oilites, also found there is no need to add any led to bring up to weight. Total weight of my car is 177g with plafit gears, chassis adjusters and wheel inserts with brake detail. Will be interesting to see what the other bodies weigh in comparison to the BMW. Really excited about this class it will be a drivers class with the Box Stock Rules, fixed gear and low start up cost. Look forward to seeing all the others ones that are around.
  17. as with all slotcars the devil is in the small detail. I see a lot of people build two cars the same and one is faster which means they did something different or didn't get the parts straight and flat enough, and that results in a slower car. Tyre size makes a small difference as does age of the motor they take a long time to run in. You will probably see everybody go slower when they get their handout motor. So if you tuning your car with a slower motor you will find you have an advantage come race time. There are actually a lot of things you can do to a scaleauto car to make I go faster even though they look very simple. Paul the Texan is one of the best at that
  18. Great advice there......a bit like those gear charts with a great array of numbers which mean bugger all. Those gear charts mean a lot when you know what to do with them. I do agree though motor is not as critical as everybody thinks.
  19. If your a ford and Dick John Fan this is some real gold.
  20. I have a two lap rule.... If I sit behind someone for two laps and then get up the inside of someone then they can hang on the outside at their own peril. Same if I think someone is faster and I cant hold them out for two laps I let them past on the straight with a small button off, then chase like hell...lol. If I am coming up on someone really quickly I will nicely ask to be let go on the straight after that the two lap rule applies.
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