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Everything posted by espsix

  1. All depends on the type of races you plan on running in. sprint races, the cheap ones are fine, buy a lot, so you can sort them into usable pairs, and wash them out with shelite, then use a bearing holder alignment tool to get the most out of them. and, yes, use the beater fitting ones in the rear. the Gold plafit ones are open style bearings, so need cleaning between races. I use them in cars that are raced in the longer races.
  2. BRM do a alloy 33t spur gear that is a direct fit on revoslot, as they both use the same gear set. check that both the spur, and pinion is concentric on the revoslot, as some of the early ones were very bad.
  3. No I don't have either of those controllers, just going by what I've experienced with other controllers. I just went and had another read on both the 01, and 02, and your right, very confusing. You can test the controller by hooking a volt meter to the track rails. Set all the dials to zero, or one (1). Which ever is lower. Start by just squeezing the trigger until you get a reading, as in at the start of the trigger throw, just off brake, then try turning up the " start " dial as see if the volts increase, if so, that's sensitivity, or min speed, try the other dials just to make sure they don't do anything. Then I'd test the " step " dial by squeezing the trigger until you get the same volt reading as the power supply is set to. Try this at different setting on the dial, working your way from min, to max, and see if full voltage is reached before getting to the end of the trigger throw. I read the description of the " step " as moving the full power point up and down the trigger throw. Then test the " sensibility " dial! squeeze the trigger until it's just off full power, ( so any kind off full power relay is not activated ), then try turning the "sensibility" up, if the volts decrease, this would likely be traction control/choke/anti spin. You might have to try that with the "step" dial in both minimum, and maximum positions. You can also have a car on the track with its rear wheels lifted of the surface, so you can see what happens to a car during each test, and test the brake dial. I hope what I've just said makes sense, and helps. I have the TruSpeed PWM II, and it's a great controller, but I rarely use it, but that's because I have to many other controllers. The PWM II won't be rereleased, it will become the PWM 3.
  4. Not sure if your talking about the 01, or the 02. But the 02 has a bit better explanation of the controls. From my experience with various controllers, " step " usually means " end step ", as in how large the difference between 99% and 100% is. eg: on a 12 volt track, 100% is 12v, 99% can be adjusted to be anywhere from 11.9v, to say 10v. Have a look at the SlotIt scp2 instructions, I'm sure it has this feature, also go have a look at the TruSpeed PWM II, on the TruSpeed site, it has this feature. As for " start ", that usually means minimum speed, as in when you first squeeze the trigger, and the car is getting power, the higher you set this, the faster the car will go. I would also think " sensibility " would be " traction control, or anti spin ", what ever you wish to call it, and " start " would be more " Sensitivity " on a English speaking controller. As for a structured approach to tuning the controller. Only change one thing at a time! What you can do is give it to someone who is familiar with " multi adjustment " controllers, and get them to set it for you for your favourite car, and use that as I base. I've done this once or twice for new guys, as they tend to get " lost " with all the different adjustments, when they get their first multi unjust net controller.
  5. Have you looked at Ace Hobbies, Werner has a range of GT style bodies.
  6. I don't think that going off topic is a problem, when talking face to face, a conversation can go from one subject to another, especially if it involves more than two people.
  7. Noel, I think it means white front lights, and red tail lights, as per real cars. I think a lot of people were starting to Color their lights for easy identification during the " night " portion of the racing.
  8. 25 Ohm will give you a better range, I get mine from evilbay. 3watt 25 Ohm. Will be fine
  9. espsix

    Hudy Tyre Truer

    Yes, and one I got from you at MCN at Red Racer a couple of years ago.
  10. espsix

    Hudy Tyre Truer

    Yes, it comes with a 3/32 nd, and 1/8 th shaft, but they are both steeped from 3 mm, so as tony said, just replace with a full 3 mm axle. Buy spare secondary drive belt, as they break all the time because of the crap way the drive system is set up. I only use my Hudy for turning down to approx size, then finish off to final size with my TyreTrue the next day.
  11. Well my Truspeed MTII turned up last Thursday, and I have to say the build quality is first rate, as usual from Steve Hills, I also own one of his PWM II, and it's hard to believe that these are not mass produced by a large company. The trigger is soooomth, almost contactless in its feel, and the whole thing is nice and light. Now to the negatives, if you could call them that. The controls on top are very smooth, meaning they have no feel, so, mid race I found it hard not to over adjust, no doubt I'll get used to them in time. I got the high power one, so instead of the the resettable fuse, it came with a fast blow fuse, but it's inside the handle, so not a quick change if it blows. The full power relay is in the handle, not down the other end of the cables, a bit strange, but as has been pointed out by those that know, it's not needed for the kind of cars/motors I'll be using it for. The club i race with runs on 10 volts, and down there the response is a bit soft even though I had the sensitivity turned all the way up, at 12 volts it was fine, I found a fix for this by shortening the trigger throw, which is a $8 option, and well worth the extra, and can be fitted to most brand controllers. One thing I really like on both the Truspeed controllers is the "traction control", it works without effecting the rest of the controller, unlike on the Difalco, which is that bad, I never used it much. I'm yet to try out the Coast/HO mode, which is for cars with lots of brakes. I used it at Friday night racing at Hallam, and got 3 wins from 3 starts, but I did the same last week with my Difalco, so I can't say one is better than the other.
  12. I got the same problems with safari on the iPad, lucky I've got the iPhone with another provider. It's happening for me on one other forum aswell.
  13. I assume you are talking about the MTII for that price? Was that in Normal, or Coast mode? I should have mine turn up sometime this week, as a replacement for my ageing Difalco, which will be relegated to a spare. Sports Racer, I've had someone tell me the same thing about the DS-3506 not delivering full power, another issue with them is the crappy design of the way the wires to the trigger are routed, they will fail sooner rather than later, maybe just turn it into a $150 night light with the pretty blue light?
  14. espsix

    Revo Slotcars

    What scale are they?
  15. Hi Matt, don't discount the Parma controller, I raced with a guy who could kick anyone's butt with a Parma economy with a brake pot and a switch for 25 to 45 ohm, in any class, be it 32 nd or 24 th scale.
  16. No problems Mark, like I said, things were hectic, and there was really no spare track time for playing with controllers. Benno was faster with the LMP using his Difalco than both of us with the ACD, and I didn't even try the Difalco because I knew how everything felt with the ACD. Spares are always good to have, I had my Difalco as my spare.
  17. Please post your thoughts after you've had a go with one Kim. I was chatting with Mark about them on the weekend, and would of loved to have had a run with one but things were a bit hectic. I have a PWM II which is great, but reaching down to change a setting during a race can be a problem.
  18. This is the email a friend got back when asking about the different controllers. "The ACD dual works in general like the pro Controller. The difference is that the ACD dual has a wider setting range for the brake( 0 to 100%) and 2 brake modes(ACD Braking and traditional braking mode) The pro version has only ACD braking and the brake range is 50 to 100% The pro working voltage is 7..22V The ACD dual 8..22V Please note: Actually we don't have an English manual for the ACD dual. Best regards Bassem Yahya Ing. Buero Yahya Robert-Schuman-Str. 2A D - 41812 Erkelenz Tel. ++49 (0) 2431 6444 Fax. ++49 (0) 2431 4595 Email: B.Yahya@yatronic.com ------------------------------------------------ ACD dicon Digitales Slotracing www.yatronic.de" ask them yourself.
  19. Your both right, braking starts immediately you lift off, but the ACD braking is only in the 100 to 50% range, I even have an email from the people that makes then stating it.
  20. I do agree with Gary and yourself about the Difalco, it's a great controller, why I still have one. Why I said it's a entry level high end controller is more because of price than anything else.
  21. That's the plan Steve, and I think my cars may actually be in with a chance. Thanks Glen, it's why I have so many " Holden scum " friends, it make me feel a lot smarter than I really am. 😜 Drive safe on the way down guys.
  22. Haven't used a Third Eye, but people say they have the most brakes of any controller, very expensive though, but all the really good controllers are. As mentioned earlier, use as many controllers as you can before you buy. ACD Pro, SlotIt don't have wiper contact, so pretty much maintenance free, all the others do have some form of contact on the wiper , so, need to be looked after. Some people don't like the contactless controllers because of the lack of " feel " , but firming up the spring can go some way to fixing that issue.
  23. And dearer by a couple of hundred dollars. The Difalco is more entry level in the high end controllers, and I have heard of few people have had problems with the Carsteen, but I don't know what the issue is. But I've heard people rave about how good they are, and the one time I tried one I was very impressed. PM have a " unique " style trigger, that I personally don't like, but others don't seem to mind. TruSpeed have some good controllers, but can be pricey, I do own the PWM II, and the only issue I have with it is the full power relay doesn't work on the 10 volts that most of the tracks I race on use. Has the best traction control I feel, and the brake hold feature is fantastic one you get the hang of it. SlotIt are a home set controller in my opinion, but some guys I race with happily use them, and win races with them. The one DS electronics controller I've seen has a really bad design, trigger wire which will fail in time, and you can be sure it will happen when you winning a race. ACD Pro, I have both the 5, and the 5L, the 5 has a short trigger throw, which is way to aggressive for 32 nd scale or tight tracks, the 5L with the longer throw is one of the best controllers I've used, but I've not used it for 32 nd scale, on the rare occasion I race the smaller scale cars I use my Difalco or TruSpeed.
  24. I think your in for some real disappointed Glen. FORD shirts have been washed, ironed and set out for quick change every day! Even got matching hats. It is a shame about Kin and Noel, but they obviously came to the realisation then never stood a chance.
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