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Posts posted by NimROD444

  1. Hey All,

    @Oldskool62- Honestly, it was mailed out on Friday. Thank you for being so patient.

    Can't wait to see pics of this build.


    @rosco01 - There are a number of ways to make the body stronger. A couple I've used are impregnating the body with superglue.

    Body is much stronger but now more rigid, not as flexible.  A layer of PVA white glue to the interior of the body, more strength and a little more flexibility then the superglue




  2. Hi All,

    Been busy again, but a little free time coming up.

    @oldschool - sorry for the slow ship from Vlad, but it will be going out tomorrow in the mail.

    L hope your still excited ;)

    @knoath - Not sure in resin mate, happy to share the file if you want a print it.

    It may be a little too thin though.

    @rosco01 - Thank mate, but remember I only worked on the wings, fenders and spoilers, the rest was already there.

    BTW, it has the same, or ver close wheel base to the ninco sierra.

    Also happy to share the file but it is thin @ 0.4mm wall thickness, as I adjusted the Horizontal fill to 0.25mm in cura

    Please send any requests to





    Ps the Alfa is next

    • Like 2

  3. Hiya All,

    I'm fortunate enough to have both FDM and Resin printers, but have only printed with the FDMs.

    IMO, FDM is better suited for 1/24 scale cars, the prints come out very nicely detailed and quite smooth and the resin ones for 1/32 and smaller.

    In saying that, I can print a 1/32 body with good detail and keep it very smooth.

    But keep in mind, that it all comes down to the quality of the file.

    An ultra smooth file with details adjusted for 3D printing will produce a great print.

    Similar if you were to do a good resin body, it needs to be very smooth and have exaggerated details.

    I can say this as I've had the opportunity to work with a number of files of differing quality and it's very obvious by the out put.

    There has also been a lot of improvement in the slicing software too, big difference from 3 years ago.

    It's still early days for this hobby but you can get so much out of 3D printing for the small setup costs.

    The fantasy miniatures people have a heap of web based applications to create your own character or scenery and provide a high quality 3D file ready for printing.

    It's still very early days, but I want to enjoy these unique cars now while I can still pull a trigger.





    • Like 2

  4. Hi All,

    I know it's been a while, but it's getting harder to find time, too many projects.

    Unfortunately, I find it hard to say no when I get requests LOL.

    @Kevan - Yep sure is Mate

    @Manuel Sanchez - They will all be freely available when made printable.

    May I ask, for all the members interested in these cars, put forward a list of which car should be next and so on.

    I'll try and get one done a week, should be doable as most are just external bodies. 

    One list though.

    @Oldschool62 - It's finally printed! I tried to get as much detail on the body as possible, printed not to bad.

    After 42 hours this is the result with no cleanup, yet.

    It was an ambitious print, 0.4mm shell thickness - 3 shells, 0.6mm Z height, , 100% infill, 0.25mm Horizontal expansion. 15% support







    • Like 6

  5. Hi All,

    Unfortunately, I thought there was very little interest in the Mirage cars so I let them fall behind new projects.

    I'll get them done in the coming weeks, but I still have OLDSKOOL's Nissan to print.

    @OLDSKOOL - I will get it done this week Mate promise!!

    I've been working with GDSLOT on the full 1984 F1 grid recently, just have to get the chassis sorted and will be ready to issue bodies.

    I believe I have the full 1973 F5000 grid, I'll start that in another thread when ready

    Thank you for the support everyone



    • Like 1

  6. Hiya All,

    Now that the Bluebird as almost done (promise Oldskool, this weekend for sure)

    Here are some of the other models waiting to be cleaned up, most are already there as they are much simpler models than the Nissan BB.



    More still lurking on the hard drive



    • Like 2

  7. Hi All,

    After hacking up 3D models found on the net and making them printable, I've started producing a few models from scratch.
    The Sting GW1, Costello's and Lola T310 are some of the scratchies so far.
    Keeping with the theme - hard to find or too expensive in 1/32, by popular demand, The Mirage M2 and M3
    Big Thanks to Chappy for all the extra help.
    It's not perfect by any means, but using the 2 foot rule, should be fine running around the track.


    Being test printed, will be available very soon



    • Like 1

  8. Thank you all,

    And then last night I found a $15.00 version that looks better than mine HAHAHAHAHAHA

    It's  lot thicker though

    going through and putting the panel line on, then it will be ready

    Couple more days

    @Phil, please send m some pics, Dave's build of the Shadow MKII was just beautiful, got to see more.

    BTW, which car do you guys want next?

    Only if it is too hard to find



    • Like 1

  9. Hey Oldskool,

    Apologies it's taken so long, I had a few projects in front of it.

    Finally, we can see the light at the end, a couple more hours and it should be ready for you.

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.







    • Like 6

  10. Hey All,

    Yes I have a bluebird 3d model, I post a pic to make sure it's the car your thinking of.

    If you have a printer, your welcome to it, if not, I can print it but, it will be a couple of weeks.




  11. Hiya All,

    @Oldschool62 - I recently looked into doing this for the models I've been making, even more so on scratch built models.

    My biggest issue with modelling the lines was working out the width and height of the trench so that it wouldn't be filled in when thickening the body to 0.8mm.

    Also not disappear after a little sanding and a few coats of paint

    There is a number of ways to do the lines, depending which software you are using and if the model is a Solid object or a 3D Mesh.

    After a little trial and error I found that working with a full 1:1 size model, the gap = 40mm and the depth = 30mm

    A couple of examples below.

    Note the March 717 has the gap and depth at 50mm (too harsh), while the Sting GW1 has the gap and depth as above.







    My apologies Gents, I read it as you had the 3d files, as well as the bodies.

    If the bodies don't work out, pm me, I'm sure I could find the models, fix them and print them for you.



    • Like 3

  12. Hiya All,

    Example for the next series of cars.

    Fixing a couple of areas, but should be ready very soon.

    (Engine and Mirrors can be printed separate, all Engine detail will be a little more reinforced)

    Paul (FC47 at HRW) is working on a 1/24 scale version, looking great so far.

    (I'll see if I can grab a few of his pics too)

    1960's Formula 5000 Eagle (1/32, ZS layer height = 0.1mm Test print)








    • Like 2

  13. Hi All,


    @Vinno - Example of the quality - all found on the net. I'll get them ready for printing over the next couple of weeks.

    Do you have preferences, eg separate bumpers, grill, mirrors?

    @Farrout - HAHA I Like your list Mate, Happy to get all the models ready over the next few weeks, just be patient.

    Happy to share all the STL model files for free

    I'll print a body first to see how good the quality is in the next week or so.



  14. Hi Farrout,

    If it helps, I have 3D models for the following cars;

    1985-1987 - ALfa 75, Alfa GTV, BMW 635, Bmw M3, Toyota Corolla Coupe, Ford Mustang, Holden VL, Holden VK, Maserati Biturbo, Mercedes 190E, Nissan DR30, Rover SDi, Sierra RS500, Toyota Supra, Volvo 240T, Jaguar XJS, Mitsubishi Starion, Toyota Celica.

    PM me if your interested



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