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Everything posted by MrFlippant

  1. Unless you're wanting to do 1/43 or HO, the only 3 or 4 lane possible in a 8x4 sheet is an oval, with maybe a wiggle on one side. If you want any kind of "race track" you're going to need to go down to 2 lanes, or do a 1 lane rally.
  2. If you're using an OEM lane changer, it already has a solenoid in it. Carrera lane changers have a mechanical latch that holds the flipper in place, and the passing car's guide triggers the mechanism to reset the flipper. It sounds like all you need to do is bypass the OEM electronics, and fit a momentary press button that channels an appropriate voltage to the included solenoid. Just be sure to not hold the button down, or use some electronics to make sure it only sends power for a fraction of a second. Then, the car will reset it once it enters the pit lane. I don't know the voltage you'd need to pass to the solenoid, though. I'm sure someone out there knows.
  3. The article itself says what you need to know: "The trade-off is that the final shape of the model is usually imperfect. The average 3D scanner may sometimes struggle with shiny, transparent, or black surfaces, but with photogrammetry the number of artifacts and amount of noise you inevitably have to deal with is vastly greater. The result is, ultimately, a model with high-definition texture, but also a lot of noise and imperfect geometry." If you can't get literally hundreds of clear photos from every possible angle, don't bother. Even if you can, the results will be all bumpy and imperfect. If you want a good quality print, the best way to start with the model is modeling software, not photogrammetry. Even the really expensive, commercial grade scanners, spit out bumpy models that then need to be worked on for hours to make them look good or print well.
  4. MrFlippant

    Pine Grove Circuit

    SSD changers usually don't respond well to less than 11v, if at all. The only way to trigger them is with a car being powered by the SSD power base track so that emits the digital signal from the LED which will tell the LC flipper to switch or straighten. If you're not using a controller, then it will only tell the flipper to straighten. There aren't a whole lot of wires to mess with, though. Two for each solenoid, and two to the track to get power.
  5. 1/32 size Wire Wheel suitable for Ninco Classic slot cars https://www.printables.com/model/176018 This model makes use of multi-part modeling and disabling the “clip multi-part objects” option in PrusaSlicer to force each spoke to be printed across the perimeters of the other parts of the wheel for secure adhesion at both ends. While the spokes and knock-offs are not the exact same as OEM Ninco Classic wheels, the rim and rib sizes are the same, so will take a tire made to fit those wheels. The hub will probably need to be carefully reamed, or a THWACK mallet can be used to knock the axle into the wheel. Careful not to ream it too big, or it will be wobbly! The spokes are designed with a .4x.4mm cross section, which is two layers using a standard .4mm nozzle and standard .2mm layer thickness. I cannot speak to how well this will print using other nozzle sizes or layer thicknesses. My prints pictured are proof of concept. It's likely that they can be made better with better quality filament and some settings tweaking, especially for flow and speed while printing the spokes. I did not include STL files because of the nature of these models and the required settings in the slicer to make them print properly.
  6. Nice! I like how you have the train crossing over the slot car track too. Very cool.
  7. Well, I'm glad you're tackling the issues, rather than throwing up your hands and dropping the hobby. There's a fix or workaround for pretty much everything, so be sure and do some diligent googling, and of course, don't be afraid to ask if you can't find the answer. I readily admit that things are not always easy to find, especially if you are new to the hobby and unfamiliar with the nomenclature. For example, your power base is probably the one we call the "APB" or C7042, so be sure to use one or both of those terms when seeking help for it. SlotForum.com has been a go-to forum for Scalextric Digital topics since its origin in 2006, and a lot of the stuff from ages ago still applies today, such as the controller cleaning and spring thing. Some things only apply to the APB, and some things only apply to the new ARC Pro base.
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