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chris99 last won the day on June 24 2014

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About chris99

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    Kart Driver

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  1. Brilliant idea to use the Hall sensor to get round one of the weak points of the Scaley controller and the screen is also a big plus. Probably a lot of work, but maybe a nice little project could be to adapt it to work with ARC Pro using the built-in receiver Cheers, Chris
  2. Not a good idea as there may be a fault somewhere which is triggering the fuse and bypassing it is highly likely to end up blowing things up. Afraid I'm not an electical expert.
  3. Digital powerbases are 15v input, but don't output that much to the track. In any case, lane changers are specifically designed to work with Scalextric digital powerbases and they are tolerant of slightly higher voltages so I don't think voltage is your problem. For info they do have a re-settable fuse inside which triggers if there's an overload - then it needs a powerbase restart to reset it (or disconnect/ reconnect the lane changer from the track). It shouldn't trigger unless you push it to the limit, like running 6 cars over the sensor constantly for 10 mins on a small oval (I've done it when testing something else). Sounds like they might be defective but it's unusual in my experience. The only other straw I can offer is that fluorescent lighting or oblique sunlight can mess with the sensors for the lane changers.
  4. If you push the flipper back to straight, will it change a second time without a power reset? This is from an XLC but it should look something like this if the pins are still inserted correctly in the black plastic tab (between the two solenoids) Another thing to check is if any wires are loose like this one (link)
  5. If the flippers only move one way, then one pin may have slipped out of the solenoid. Take the back panel off (underneath the curved track piece) and have a look. It's fiddly but doable to put it back in - the pins just sit loose in either end of the solenoid .
  6. Hi, I've got some of these Spanish lane changers from the UK and they are all fine. If you manually push the flipper to change and then run a car over the sensor, does the flipper move to straight on?
  7. Hi, These might make the menus clearer: >Menu map >C7042 Teminology Chris
  8. Hi, Anyone know anything more about this Kickstarter Real FX Racing mini wireless AI system? It says it's been under development for 6 years but I can't find any forum posts on it, unless maybe they've changed the name. There's a cool promo video, but the cars are maybe a bit slow in the non speeded-up video sequences. Looks similar to Anki Drive & Mag Racing Cheers, Chris
  9. chris99

    6 Car Power Base

    Hi Lordy, I've never used it, but I see there's a Yellow Flag delay function buried in the APB menu jungle assuming you are using the original tower. Although it's based on a later version, this menu map may help to find it: http://scaley.chris9...2_menus_109.pdf And for good measure here's a dictionary for the hieroglyphics: http://scaley.chris9...breviations.pdf Cheers, Chris
  10. There are slotters who can repair the chips - GregK in a UK forum and GMyers in a US forum have offered this service the past but informally via forum pms, and they could uprate the chips at the same time to run with more powerful motors. However, with postage it may be cheaper to buy a new chip unless you want several done together. Also, there are forum threads on doing it yourself if you're handy with a soldering iron and micro soldering - not for the faint hearted though.
  11. Sounds like the chip has blown, maybe after being short circuited. Can you try it in another car to check it? Chris
  12. Is this still on the "maybe" list Ian? Chris
  13. chris99


    Here's the mother of all lists - link
  14. Yes and yes. At worst you should only see a slowing down of cars as you put more on. If possible, it would be worth testing with 4 different cars and testing your 4 cars on another track. Check the chip installation in the AA cars to make sure there's no shorting with wires touching where they shouldn't. Also vacuum the track well to make sure there'es no bits of braid causing intermittent shorts. Chris
  15. My cheap copper tape, stuck just over the joins, has lasted well over the last couple of months but it does rip easily. I also found you still need a couple of power taps (wires under the layout connecting the rails) on a long track to maintain the power at the farthest points. More recently, and for a couple of dollars from a craft shop, I've just got some cheap copper wire which you can nestle down between the outside of the rails & the plastic - just & couple of inches across each track joint. I used 0.3 mm but it's a bit loose. 0.4mm or 0.5mm might be better, but it may push your rails together a bit, going on what I've read in another forum so some cars with thicker or longer guide blades might have problems. I've only got a short track and no power drops at the moment so I can't really say if it's effective, but it's cheap & easy.
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