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Everything posted by Caddo

  1. Chasing that last tenth gets a bit much of a time and wallet drain. The latest and greatest equipment always challenges the older gear to remain relevant. I'm sure there are plenty of others that have formerly good race cars that are now no longer competitive for a podium. The answer may lie in handicapping the newer, faster cars, to keep the older cars "in the race". Adding weight is a good option. Involves some work to determine the right level of handicap, but means there will be a greater variety of cars on the grid. I hate seeing 75% of the racers running the same, dominant car racing in a particular class - boring!!
  2. G'day Any one know of a source for Mabuchi motor, end bell drive sidewinder pods, similar to the old Slot It classic car pods? They are all can drive pods now. 3D printed is ok. Cheers Caddo
  3. How about trying new technology - the microwave - anyone game?
  4. Might be worth trying some cars at the higher end of performance. Brands like Slot It, NSR, Sideways, ScaleAuto offer far better non-mag performance compared to Scaley. Metal wheels, better gears/mesh, adjustable front axles, motor pods etc
  5. Parity - a timeless question. Personally, I would prefer that each manufacturer defined aa common chassis set up for each class of car. Might not be quite to scale, but at least cars in the same class made by the same manufacturer are evenly matched. for example Camaro's vs Mustang's built to scale = Mustang's are narrower and taller, Camaro's always tend to dominate another good example = Scalextric changed the V8 Falcon chassis, so that the motor and rear axle sat lower. From that point forward, the V8 Commodore's never stood a chance in head to head competition. I love classes like the NSR classic sports cars, where the chassis, motors, gears, bodies etc are very similar, makes for very close racing
  6. Caddo


    If you are running on plastic track and want more grip, why not just run magnets? Adding oils etc to tyres to get more traction is basically replicating the magnetic effect. MJK's offer enough grip without being magnet like, also harder to treat which makes for a level playing field, and resistant to picking up dust/debris. Worth a go on your plastic track, BONUS - MJK's come in many different shapes and sizes to suit almost any rim.
  7. Thanks Gary Any ideas on how to set one up to win a race?
  8. I've only recently heard the quote "get your hand off it" apparently it's aussie slang for "you're a wonker" I'd never direct it at anyone on here though...
  9. I've been known to do that from time to time. Hahahaha, hands off member time
  10. MATE Bernie's monika, that is a crack up.Hopefully you drive faster than Bernie ever did hahaha:)
  11. Caddo

    Ninco F1

    Apologies, am pursuing some GT3 cars, no longer interested.
  12. Pete, no offence, but your point may get lost in your stream of consciousness posts. Better off keeping it short and to the point.
  13. I enjoy following the proxy process - sometimes 10 pages on here on motor choices, very technical. I am not a proxy enterer-er, but was thinking it is a bugger that slot car fans can be so far flung geographically. Anyhow, can't change that, but was wondering - do most proxy enterer-ers enter proxy races due to lack of local racers to compete with in head to head competition, or for other reasons?
  14. Curious that the Prospeed and Higrips come in same shore hardness. What is the difference between the compounds if not hardness? Something like the difference between Slot It N's and F's?
  15. Caddo

    Pick Up Braid

    Car weight is mainly on the guide, front wheels just touching the track
  16. Caddo

    Pick Up Braid

    Gday all, I have been using Slot It Tinned Copper Braid for car pick ups. Works well, nice and thin at 0.40mm, but not very hard wearing. Anyone using braid of similar thickness that lasts longer? Cheers
  17. Cheers Phil, No worries, but I'd recommend all Dad slotters have at least 1 x Slot It controller in their kit - it lets the kids circulate at reduced voltage to their lane while Dad sets up cars at normal track voltage:) I'm interested if your home built controller also reduces maximum voltage to the lane, below the power supply max voltage? Haven't seen a commercial controller do this except the Slot It. Is there another one I don't know of? Other controllers reduce trigger sensitivity & delay acceleration [traction control] , but not voltage to the lane. Cheers Caddo
  18. Sorry Phil, don't agree with you here. The controller reduces lane voltage, in turn reducing the motor's power output. You could choose 25k Boxer motors moving forward, and get similar parity to 14k mabuchi's via the hand controller voltage control. Racers not owning them and perceptions of lack of feel could be due to racers not knowing how to set them up properly. Anyhow, just some input, good luck with the motor Holy Grail!!
  19. If you need to repaint, there is an "anti-slip" powder additive you can buy to mix into the paint or coating. It adds texture to the surface, minimizing tyre contact area & allows sliding. Best to seal it in with a clear coat over the top
  20. Yeah true DM, that is the simplest way. Pick a higher powered motor, then reduce track voltage to suit.
  21. Gday guys Been reading your posts and heart ache about motors. In my experience, anytime lower/medium powered motors are controlled, one of two things generally happens: 1] Racers buy 10 or 20 motors, in an effort to find one "over spec" motor = expensive or 2] Racers tamper with motors for performance improvement = advantage for those that know how Most slot car manufacturers are increasing motor power and reducing lower powered motor product ranges. To reduce cost and availability issues, why not adopt a higher powered, readily available motor? This would eliminate both options 1 & 2 above, as power is in plentiful supply. Looking for that extra tenth becomes more handling related. If this sounds like an option, the way to control the extra power is the Slot It hand controller. You all probably know already, but the Slot It controller can dial down the track voltage to the lane it is used on. To adjust lane voltage, use the Curve/Max dial, [in "Linear" mode on the SCP1, or "Low" setting on the SCP2] This dial controls track voltage to the lane, and works like this on my track, when powering a car on a lane: Track supply voltage = 12V 0 setting on Curve/Max = 6V 5 setting on Curve/Max = 9V 10 setting on Curve/Max = 12V full power Allows you to turn a 30K motor powered car into a tame 14K type car. Might be something worth a thought
  22. Love the Porsche's, but they struggle to be competitive in the 1/32 scale due to their smaller footprint & tall height. They are normally a couple of mm narrower and taller, with a 6 or 8mm shorter wheelbase, which is probably the main reason. Have never been able to get one competitive with other GT cars like the Z4, SLS and R8. Was also hoping all the Revo GT cars would perform similarly, but life is never that easy!!
  23. I haven't come up against a 908 yet. The Thunderslots have been beaten in our last couple of meets by Slot It Ferrari 312's & NSR P68's. Someone will buy a 908 soon. Not me though, don't like the body shape at all. The P68 is a Ford & decades ahead of it's time
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