Jump to content

Caddo

Members
  • Content Count

    897
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Everything posted by Caddo

  1. Great work Craig, layout looks great for racing. Looking forward to running on it soon, Cheers Caddo
  2. Thanks John & Gazza, for results & pics. Some great action shots there. Joe's Group C Lancia was a rocket & smashed the "non-race" previous best lap time by 0.4 seconds. His truck probably will too!!! Looking forward to hosting a round at my joint again whenever the opportunity pops up Cheers Caddo
  3. Happy Birthday for tomorro Mel, don't worry bout the years, your only as olde as the one you feel. She's 32 right?
  4. Burglar makes some very valid points I missed re out of the box performance. Non magnet slot cars mean you need to put time into car tuning and tyre selection also, which may not suit you or your race buddies. For this reason, i avoid buying Carrera cars for example, as they are very difficult to get to run well non-magnet. The other advantage I missed is that plastic tracks can be changed around as often as you like. I changed my Ninco track plenty, and must have had 20 different layouts over 2 years as i built up the number of pieces. You can also pack away plastic tracks when not in use. BUT, I found that the more I joined/unjoined track pieces, the more electrical conductivity issues I had due to looser connections. There is freeware such as Ultimate Racer which allows you to design track layouts using Ninco/Carrera/Scaley track systems on your computer. If you buy a plastic system, I'd highly recommend changing the hand controllers to Parma Economy controllers at a bare minimum. Generally the controllers supplied with plastic tracks are rubbish as Manimmal says. Power supplies are also a problem on large plastic layouts with electrical losses in joins. The plastic track transformers supplied won't cope with the amps required for high powered cars, particularly with magnets. they will tend to supply a surge of power to one car when the other comes off the track. Lastly, one thing that bugged me about Ninco track is the guide rails sit 1mm above the track surface. This means that if a car is sliding in non-mag racing, as soon as the rear wheels run over the rails, the car nearly always deslots. It also means that if you set up the front end of a car for Ninco track, it often didn't perform as well on other level track surfaces. It's also very hard on tyres due to the rough surface. Good for grip, but costs $$ in tyre replacement.
  5. I'd highly support Gref's recommendations re the wood/MDF track option. I went for a Ninco plastic track initially, as had limited time to put into a timber track. I enjoyed the Ninco track, but it does not compare to a reasonably made timber track. As you have the time, timber tracks are SOOOO much better to run on, and can be designed into just about any shape you like. Plastic tracks have the following limitations: At every track join there is the potential for poor connections, resulting in inconsistent power supplied to the cars. This can result in dead spots/power surges The further you get from the power supply, the weaker the power. I had multiple "power taps" to my 2 lane 35m Ninco track to try and keep consistent power around the layout. They require support by timber anyway if you are going to elevate the track or have overpasses. Otherwise the plastic sags over time. Plastic tracks are hard to keep perfectly flat, and cars sound similar to trains on tracks ie clickety clack, clickety clack when running over the track joins As the plastic rails are metal, there is always an amount of magnetic downforce applied, particularly by open, long can motors. You'll most likely start by running magnets, but end up running magnet free to challenge yourself with car setup, driving skill, and limiting the amount of damage to cars by reducing the ridiculous amounts of HP capacity when using magnets. Non-ferrous braid allows timber tracks to be completely free of magnetic influence, creating a platform that is fair for all racers. They have next to no connectivity issues, and are ultra smooth to drive on. You can design your own layout and surface texture.
  6. Caddo

    De'Ville Autopista

    Thx for the posts. Good news, finished painting, braiding and wiring. The track lives and breathes tyre rubber at 13V!! i know I'm sick of breathing MDF dust!!! Photobucket has ####ed me over or I have it, either way, I can't post pics (help Slots NZ!!!). Ended up up rolling on suede effects paint over undercoat, then brushed on 3 coats of Cabots CTP floor WB clear. The first clear coat had the paving "grit" powder added for texture. Paint is bloody slow to dry at 10C in my garage this time of year, left a week between coats. Haven't got lap timing yet, but can feel that F22's, NSR Super Grips, P6's, MJK's all work well. If I can work out the IT issues, I'll post some pics. Caddo
  7. so does yours still sound like a Harley..... Sure does, I'd love to race it like that so you can hear it before you see it- but it keep's trying to cough out a pinion and self-imploding...unfortunately the mix of my engineering "illegibillity" and Cartrix's engineering perfection didn't gell at all. Anyway, this is way off topic and enuff of my issues, sorry Gary, keep up the good work re Slot.It's, some fantastic releases pending.
  8. SlotIt's aren't a patch on those superbly engineered Cartrix units though. especially when you add in the beautiful tin and chamois!!!
  9. Caddo

    De'Ville Autopista

    Ready to paint & braid, slow going!!!
  10. Try a Cartrix "limited edition" classic F1 car for a let down given their high price tag!!
  11. I'm with Burglar all the way on this one, although our club allows any type of controller (Slot.It's most commonly used, non-mag MDF racing). In extreme cases, track power supply voltage can be reduced to make high powered classes more controllable. Simpler controllers also save a heap of cash to be put towards new cars!! Putting aside the adjustability factor of the electronic controllers, the reliability, consistency and low maintenance of a non-contact controller is a definite plus over analog controllers though. Ouch, sitting on the fence again!!
  12. Hey Jimmi, it was fantastic to see you keeping the yellow missile honest for quite a few laps, gotta love a grunty Lambo - great result!!
  13. Caddo

    De'Ville Autopista

    Carport is a definite option next Jimmi, though i'm quickly learning I ain't no carpenter!!!
  14. Caddo

    Mohawk Rally

    Kai that is looking really good, the scenery and layout work really well. The bridge is bloody fantastic, need to get some tips from you Saturday
  15. Caddo

    De'Ville Autopista

    Finally made a start on my first routed track. After a dozen hand drawn designs and with plenty of input from more experienced builders (thanks Bo & Joe for advice and tools!!!), I'm finally making dust. The table is 4.2 x 2.1m, on castors and 12mm MDF on top. Will take up half the garage at this stage, although might grow now the Mrs is used to parking in the driveway! Aiming for 110mm lane spacing throughout and 130mm-150mm between outside lane and fence, hopefully this will help overtaking on the fairly tight layout. Layout has radius arm curves and a few opening/closing corners done with 16mmx10mm stop bead (thanks Bo!) and a small donut. Some pics of early construction, more to follow now I've worked out how to add them!!!! Basic Layout: After doing middle lane with the stop bead, then put 3mm pieces of MDF in the slot as a guide to route the outer and inner lanes, works a treat Radius arm curves ready tio be joined using stop bead
  16. Hi Gary, I've been to a couple of rounds and am keen for Saturday, if you haven't reached numbers capacity already!!!! Cheers Caddo
  17. Caddo

    Hi To All

    Hi, I'm a new slot car enthusiast in Kellyville/Hills area of Sydney. I own a 2 lane Ninco permanent track, ~25m in length, including a climb to 600mm over base. My passion is Slot.It cars. Anyone interested in gathering for fun, informal racing please PM me. Cheers Caddo
×
×
  • Create New...