kalbfellp
Auslotters-
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Everything posted by kalbfellp
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Batteries are fine IF you need all that Amperage. My commercial track had two truck/tractor batteries I think the cost of the last one some years ago was $240.00. I had a 30 amp charger running on them with SCR control so it would trickle charge. Great ir you are running 8 lanes and group cars. Bateries on home tracks are O/K if it is in the shed or garage but yes put it on timber base. Leaving the charger on when racing will result in you racing on 13.8 volts or more probably with plenty of AC leakage onto the track.Cheap chargers don't have much filtering. For 1/32 cars with up Fox motors regulated supplies are best.
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Come on you guys let Hoffy know how many are interested. Have ago at building a car. Hoffy I will send at least one car. Are those rules now set? I would like to start building and post ongoing pics. Phil
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DSE and JayCar both market variable supplies. But they don't come cheap starting about $200.00. I would recommend that you do not get a switchmode supply. I have build mine and several others for our members down here using banks of 3055 transistors. If you know anyone that could build you one it may be cheaper. Phil
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Alan: Don't those GOM's look nice! The car looks good tempted to get another! I put a brace from the rear bearings to the motor to stop the gear mesh moving. I found the the motor tended to flex up and down when the rear motor mount bent under load. Phil
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Hoffy: The rules look good my only question is about the 3mm ground clearance,I don't think many of the RTR cars have that much clearance. I know some of Scalex and Slot it cars don't. Phil
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I don't believe that either of those bodies will fit the rules! Phil
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Here is a couple of Useful links about headlights and brake lights. There is a current post over on Slot forum about this. Current Slotforum post Slotforum post Carson info
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I don't have any experience on plastic but our cars on wood all weigh 100 grams plus. Fly Gt1 has two strips down each side and a piece just in front of the motor. Phil
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The use of higher ohm controllers does not stop people using higher powered motors it just makes the car harder to drive for the guys racing them. I know the first marconi race only allowed 45 ohm controllers but after that they changed. We use 15 to 25 on all types of motors. Some guys manage to drive Fox's witha 25 and other use a 15 for all motors. I know this is no help we have been faced with this for years and have not found an answer. Although I have been looking at end bell drive motors with the Knurled motor shaft and so far it seems that they are only available in specs up to 23,000 ( Oz Race). Maybe some one else has some info on these. Only problem is that they are harded to fit in some chassis because of the end bell drive.
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Who uses 45ohm controllers?
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No Magnets as Long beach said they don't work on wood and copper. I liken magnets cars to winged 1/24 group cars they have a place for those who like to go fast reasonably easily,although it still takes skill to get the best performance out of any car. Phil
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Have a look at this Topic. Lights
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The voltage regulator prevents more than 5 volts going into the LEDs or battery. A Zenner diode will do the same,I used the regulator because I had it!
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Have alok at this one over on Slotforum. You have to scroll down the page a bit! Buggy Phil
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Hoffy: Check the min tyre diameter,I just did our Scalex rules and some of the cars are having trouble meeting the 18.5mm that I set ,once sanded Ninco and pro slot tyres are only just managing to be 18.5. Maybe someone else could also measure some tyres. Phil
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I have almost finished an AU in Mitre 10 colours and am about to start doing an EB in another team,probably Shell. here is a pic of clear windows fitted to a Commodore.
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I had braid on my commercial track and still have it. Home track has tape and even down here in Tassie it gives problems in my TIN shed but is O/K if you can control the temperature. Now that the commercial track has gone I intend to use the brai from that on the home track it is still good after 15 years. Ferrodor paint is abrasive used to be used a lot when COX cars were still on sale! It used to wear out Cox tyres! No days almost any semmi gloss enamel paint will work fine. We mainly have used Dulux sati or semi gloss paint but one guy has just left his track undercoat gray and that works fine. Phil
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Here is a link to Chris Brigg's site and he has two good articles on building one on circuit board material and about his brass proxy cars. Chris's Graham Windles site also has some building tips.Including an interseting plasticard (styrene ) chassis that he entered in our Proxy race in 2002. Grahams Phil
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I think Burago do some die casts in different scales probably 1/43 and 1/25 or 1/26th!
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This slot appeared on http://www.slotcenter.net/ site about this time last year. But I cannot remember any more about it. I use this tool to translate the slotcentre newletter. http://www.itools.com/ Phil
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Depending on final dates I am sure we could manage at least one round down here on a routed track. We have four in regular use and two others available some times,all are routed and finished with satin paint. Rubber tyres work reasonably well, most of our class's use rubber. To make this race very different you could limit the bodies to any sedan that has competed in an Australian Touring car championship or V8 championship,that would make it an AUSslot race! Just a thought. Phil.
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Dave: here is a pic of my conversion:bit battle scared now.
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Hoffy: Tyres if you allow silicon then you will not be able to tell if they are purchased or home made. Silicons are alot better on plastic track. Motors: 20,000 rpm ! Are you going to test them if not then you would be better off using some other type of limit. It is almost impossible to check what arm is in what can or if the can has been open. The big Ninco's and Fox's etc with the end bell inside is a lot easier to see if it has been opened. Interiors should be 3 dimensional ,full depth will not allow inline motors. Tyre dimensions: don't worry about max. dia just miniums,probably about 18.5 mm much smaller and the cars look crap. Fronts should be a bit smaller say 18mm but should be at least 8mm wide. Inserts: for sure. Bodies you could just set a minium finished weight including interior hard to measure thickness.
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These kits are available from Pendle and Patto has some of the early kits,not sure if he is getting any Lola's. The price from Pendle is about 38.00 pounds for the body kit.
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Hoffy: If this styles are allowed then I will probably enter two cars,if I only have to change motors and tyres. Several other guys down here have similar cars and may be interested. Parma Womps and inter 1/32 make good starting points for those who are virgins at scratchbuilding. I have pics od several modified Parma cars used in a Proxy race about 5 years ago.I will hunt them up along with some drawings of chassis. Phil