Jump to content

kalbfellp

Auslotters
  • Content Count

    10,642
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

kalbfellp last won the day on March 10 2019

kalbfellp had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

66 Neutral

About kalbfellp

  • Rank
    Formula 1 Driver
  • Birthday 11/17/1950

Previous Fields

  • Country
    Australia
  • How did you find us?
    Invite to join

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hobart, Tasmania
  • Interests
    Scratch builts,routed tracks and Proxy racing.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,614 profile views
  1. Most Eurethane tyres will leach the Colour out, this is usually due to age IR heat,or combination of both.I have seen MJK do this but they do tend to last a bit longer if kept cool, my own tyres,only with most others do it. Different hardness,different Eurethane and the pigment used to Colour the Eurethane all effect the time this takes. As was mentioned flat spots can easily be avoided by keeping the tyres in the air,when stored.
  2. I did and have used Solabotics motors, with reasonable results, but have also seen several drivers not being able to come to grips with the characteristics, both in a Proxy and club racing. IMO the longer slim can it just more reliable and easier to drive. I use an 8t pinion , to try and get brakes. It will be interesting to see what if any rule changes Lenny makes for next year. Glad it is not my call.
  3. Munter lots of testing and reports on the Solabotics was done in the US some years ago for the VRAA, also Stubbo had two failures during the series. It depends on the gearing,when they are geared to try and keep up with the others seems to be the problem. That said I have one still going after running 3 club series. I will have to check on what the motors cost me a couple of years ago. Tyres: IMO Eurethanes are the way to go I make my own so do not have to buy them. Paul Gage Extremes JB,Stubbo and a few others run them. MJK make a tyre suitable. Slot Car Tyres seem to work OK, I have not tested them myself. I think RS Slotracing now sell eurethanes.
  4. Charles the main problem with the Solarbotics motors is that their characteristics are so different that they are harder to come to grips with during a proxy race format. It takes the drivers several laps to get used to them and their lack of brakes. We found that often during the first few laps it often resulted in one or more “OFFs”. As well they are also not as reliable as the longer can motors. IMO The best choices are the 16000,18000 SRP and the 1790.They all have similar characteristists.
  5. I still have a reasonable supply of the Tasman 1790 motors here. I do know the SRP 16000 seems to be on the unobtainable list again. Not sure why you would want the Solarbotics in again Charles, they are not as fast as the SRP 18,000 or the 17900 and many seem to be full of smoke that comes out on a regular interval.
  6. Use “ clean clay” for packing the original and as Matt said Pinkysil is the go to product. No real advantage in using slow cure silicon for this application.
  7. Charles you should have saved the decals, almost Antique now, But good to see the build finally progressing.
  8. Good work thank you guys for the upgrade
  9. They could look a lot like Escorts,depending on how old they are.
  10. Thank you Jacob, hope all goes well with the update.
  11. The Dow Corning Silicon used to be the only silicon available years ago, but the high viscosity made it a lot more difficult to work with and much harder to get air bubbles out off. It need to be de gassed and then poured very slowly. Pinkysil is a lot more user friendly,cures much quicker and gives just as much detail. Also the hardness is lower so easier to remove the casting. But that said the Dow Corning product did serve us well for many years, and still has its use for some projects.
  12. It is very bad practice to drill the grub screw hole first, this should only be drilled once the axle hole is drilled and reamed. The rear of the wheel should be left larger until the grub screw hole is drilled and then the almost complete wheel put back into the chuck and the rear hub turned to size. If you want to turn the hub and wheel all in one go then I suggest you make a small jig to allow the grub screw hole to be angled to avoid the step in the wheel. BWA wheels were all made with the grub screw hole drilled and tapped after the wheel was completed.
  13. I use easily available slot car axles as a reamer, like SLO ‘s simple reamer. These cheap lathes do need a lot of work to get good results. I have no idea of the hours I put into mine to get acceptable results. As for making wheels, I simply cannot spend the time, used to make some when I have access to top line tool makers lathe,even then it was hard to justify the time it took for a pair of wheels.
  14. Thank for the update info, and thank you guys for all the hard work to keep this great forum up and running.
  15. Parcels from the UK to Australia are taking around 4 weeks at present, assume things are similar the other way.
×
×
  • Create New...