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mattcrackers

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Everything posted by mattcrackers

  1. I've used the Selley's Quick Fix Supa Glue in the Stand Up Tube for years now. Sticks well to most plastics, great for MDF, glues tyres to the wheels etc. Unless you knock it over and lay it down it won't block the spout or glue the cap in place. Kept standing it will last until it's all used. Only problem I have found lately is that it is out of stock at most Bunnings.
  2. Always thought the SG1 Stargate would be a great entrance into the Slot man-cave Flashing lights and all, lol
  3. Nice work Gary, Good that you have made the signage interchangeable.
  4. Nice find Tony. I do love the artwork on the old sets, and the smell, lol.
  5. Hi Tony, They look like they're the Type 2 but I have seen the smaller heads on the Type 3 which had the chrome wheels. Looking at the wheels you have I can't see any with the chrome on them, although I can't see them all. I have some of the Aus/NZ cars with driver painted, some without, there seem to be plenty of ways these cars were assembled at the factories. Some have the same colour mirrors and carbs, some have two different colours. The tail section 'distortion' I have found to be the hardest to fix, but can be done with a hairdryer/heat gun. Slowly pulling the rear section back out and pressing down onto something hard works. I repaired my first Lotus 16 with boiling water, reshaped the car but changed the colour of the plastic. I also completely stuffed a car trying to reshape in boiling water, car distorted everywhere, so don't do that anymore. When trying to close the body halves it's always good to have a dud motor in place. Closing the two halves without the motor in place is easier actually, but the motor won't fit back in place afterwards without the halves separated again. You can test all the motors using the brushes etc off a good motor, and if they work give them a good cleanup. I had spent a bit of money over the years on buying parts, mirrors, carbs, wheels, drivers heads etc that it made sense to make my own. I can now pretty much make every part I need to complete a car but will still replace with an original part if I have it on hand. If you have any more questions just ask. cheers Matt
  6. Hi Tony, I'm unable to open any of the links. Maybe someone else can help? cheers Matt
  7. He's a few more added to the collection. A Type 1 Made in Australia with the metal loop braids. Type 2 Made in Aus/NZ in the Dark Blue And a couple of Type 1 Made in France. Always good to pick some up I didn't have. cheers Matt
  8. They pop up on Ebay all the time but I make my own. I use the clear flat plastic covers that some foods come with, usually with a tin foil base. If you can find one the same thickness as an original windscreen even better. I had a windscreen which was broken in half, taped it up, flattened it and use it to make all the screens I need to replace. If you use masking tape you can tape the original to the flat plastic and simply cut to shape. I then fold it in half and use a hairdryer etc to bend the screen to the correct shape, without heating the plastic the screen will go white where the crease is. Easy enough if you have one to copy otherwise you will need to buy them. Phil Smith from scaleslotcars.com may have spares but ebay is probably the easiest. Matt
  9. Cheers Den, Don't really buy many of the older cars myself. Leave that up to my mate who's great at finding bargains.
  10. No 17, only off by one number, haha. The only red one I had seen was another slot car. Here's a pic of the modified chassis, have seen one modified before here on Auslot. I used piano wire to strengthen the two halves of the chassis, with some Aruldite to keep it all in place. Removed the front stub axles and the outside axle holders to make room for the Fly wheels. And just a quick photo of the unmodified chassis against the modified one. Glad I've finally modified one of these chassis actually, had them for a few years now but wouldn't cut one in half. Now I'm confident doing the mod I've got 4 more I can cut up to suit other bodies.
  11. A quick build using a busted up Tamiya Lotus 30 body. I was given this body from a mate who gives me cars to restore/rebuild. I did restore one a while back, seen earlier in this thread to resemble the Tamiya Lotus 30 box. The body was cracked, broken in a few places with the right hand side and front nose of the body snapped away. Seen here in the pic below with the new panels glued in place and shaped to suit. I had one of those cheap Avant Slot chassis from a while back that I cut in half, glued, strengthened and reassembled. Had some old Fly wheels that had been sitting in their packets for years so used these as well. After I stripped all the green paint back, gave it a prime, coat of red (didn't want to do the Lotus green again) and applied some decals I had laying around. Windscreen was leftover from when Phil K sent me some for the other Tamiya Lotus 30. Not period correct or anything but had seen a pic on the net of something similar. Fitted with the Avant Slot chassis and original 27000RPM motor that these chassis came with it runs really well whether on the plastic or timber tracks. Pretty happy with it as it was a $0 build, but fun to do, all made from stuff tucked away in boxes. cheers Matt
  12. I keep a record of all my slot cars on UR3.0. Been using it for years now. Has a list of the cars I have in alphabetical order. Once you click on a certain car it will bring up a picture with the brand, make, price, number etc. Great way to stop buying doubles too. The version I downloaded years ago was free but I believe there's a small fee now.
  13. Cheers, haven't purchased a new Group C in years, had plenty that I purchased that I hadn't used. Might have to get myself one of these 23000rpm motors or a new car. Be good to see the difference at racing as my 962 seems to be off the pace using the orange end bell. Is there a substantial difference in lap times with the 23000rpm motors compared to the orange end bells?
  14. So do the new Group C Slot.it cars have 23000 RPM now compared to the old orange end bells 21500?
  15. I have been using Flickr since photobucket went a#$e up a few years back. As long as you have copied the link correctly it should work. Don't use the chain/link symbol above where you type, if you do you'll get this: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51368953083_d2db9ebc3e_z_d.jpg If you use the 'Insert image URL' to the bottom right of where you are responding to a post you'll get this: Hope this helps Matt
  16. The last one went for around $530 a few weeks/months back. Quite a few of the V8's have been going for silly prices over the last year or 2. Never seen or heard of the Komatsu Falcons Warren, sure they were Scalextric or were they 1:32 models?
  17. Cheers Fellas. Working on another Ferrari at the moment, an Atlas 158. Only missing a screen but I'll copy the original off the one I did a while back. Must of known I'd do another as I didn't glue the screen on the other 158, probably forgot to actually. I'll post a pic once it's done. I actually find it easier, and more pleasing, working on the older cars than some of the modern ones.
  18. Yep, hear where your coming from. I'd put brewing your own craft beer high up on the list. Helps with the slot car work, except when your fine detailing, not so much then. I usually make up a few bits and pieces before work, takes about 10 mins, and they're ready when I get home.
  19. Ever thought of making your own inserts? Once you have the mold you can make as many as you like. Quite simple to do as well.
  20. Back in March 2020 I asked a question here on the Forum about what Chassis's, bodies I had in the photos for doing some future restorations etc. Thanks to Big Den, he and others help to identify this car as a Marusan Ferrari 156 Sharknose. The car was missing a few bits and pieces. Driver, shocks, front nose chrome parts, tyres, roll bar, exhausts etc. I stripped it back to the bare body shell and gave it a coat of grey primer. Test fitted it again to the chassis before painting. Here it is sitting on the chassis with some home-made tyres, with the black spacers that were fitted to the chassis originally. I made a mold up and copied the missing shock, found a driver figure in the spares box, gave him a paint. The front nose of the original car had 2 chrome insert that were non-existent, so I filled these and re-primed the car. I had looked at a few pics on the net to see what the real Ferrari 156 was like. Would look fine without the chrome inserts i thought. I bent up a new roll bar from brass to suit something like the original/real car, gave it a paint with the Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen. Made up the exhausts from some scrap in the spare parts box, gave them a coat of black. Inserts were made from some old wheels that were in the spares box, sanded down to fit and chromed. I painted the car with my usual Ferrrai red, $8 spray can from Bunnings, put a few decals on and refitted all the parts. I had a problem with the clearance from the chrome parts over the black plastic spacers on the front and rear axles, body just wouldn't sit right. I removed the black spacers and replaced them with some brass tube, cut to length. I touched up any missing chrome with the chrome pen to finish off the Ferrari. Also replaced the tyres I was going to originally use with some others I had made a few years back. Think they finish the car off a bit better. Thanks to those in the know for their help. Can't complete a build if you don't know what it is. cheers Matt
  21. Been working on restoring a few more Lotus 16's, had them all out so thought I'd post a photo up. I've been making up some reproduction mirrors, carbs, drivers heads and exhausts from resin for those missing pieces here and there. Also been using the Molotow Chrome Pen for the exhausts, fuel caps etc, great product. Top 2 rows are Made in Australia/NZ. Bottom 2 rows are Made in England Last 4 on the 4th row are Made in Australia The last 2 are Made in France Same cars but another pic just to show the many shades of colour they were made in. cheers Matt
  22. Thanks for the information on the motors Chris. Nice Ferrari 158, looking forward to building the other one I have. I suppose I'll keep one or two Brabham's with the posi-lock wheels but replace one with other wheels (probably the one I'll make from resin) The shot of the chassis with the brass plate was apparently used on an Atlas Porsche or Ford Gt, thanks to a another forum member for this information. I'm catching up with my mate today who has the Atlas Ferrari pictured in the first post, I just want to see what chassis was on that one to compare.
  23. My NSR Aston Martin is set up quite basically but runs quite well at WASCRG on the wood track. I say quite basically but this is pretty much what I have picked up off the forum over the years. Check to see if chassis isn't warped. Rear bearings glued in. Screw the motor in place with the holes provided, don't think the standard cars come with the screws for this. Motor is hot glued in place, across the front and back of the motor to the motor pod, be careful not to foul the rear axles. Rear tyres glued and trued (must say since we went from the NSR tyres to the MJK I don't glue them anymore), just use tyres that are a tighter fit. Use grub srews to adjust the height of the front axle, top and bottom. True the front tyres down so they're about 1mm off the track., needed at WASCRG since the track braid is slightly lower than the track itself due to recoats over the years. Coat the front tyres in Supa Glue, allow to dry then true and polish. Repeat if you really want to. Use guide spacers if needed to keep the nose of the car off the track. Oil the rear bearings, lightly grease the gears. I've never really added any extra weight to my NSR GT cars apart from some Blu-tac to the chassis area just being the guide. This set up has worked for me for years and keeps up with or beats the other NSR GT cars at WASCRG. This is all for a wood track, with regards to racing on a Carrera plastic track I'd say you would definitely need to add more weight if running magless. I'm by no means an expert when it comes to setting up these cars and there's many more here on the forum who have been racing for years longer. Matt
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