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Steve61

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About Steve61

  • Rank
    Kart Driver
  • Birthday 04/16/1961

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    Steve61

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    Male
  • Location
    Brisbane
  1. Anyone have one of these babies yet? Mean looking car and with the king motor (in the AW version) with 322 g.cm of torque must be a real rocket!!!!!
  2. Hey DM....those decals from Pattos arrive yet?
  3. I'm looking at the H & R racing chasis on the Professor Motor site and I'm tempted to get one. They're $43.50 US which seems like good value with a great set of racing wheels (21mm wide in Foam or 18 mm wide in Silicon). A lot of the other metal chassis (Plafit etc) are over $100 and you get standard thin wheels/tyres that would need to be upgraded for racing. One disadvantage is the height is not adjustable like a Plafit but is that a big drama? Anyone have one of these babies? H & R products
  4. Steve61

    Ninco Xlot

    We single men on the forum don't have much choice some times!!!
  5. Steve61

    Ninco Xlot

    I've just ordered the Ferrari Xlot from Chris. I've got the orange one and it's a great car...very smooth and a great buy for around $120....now I am feeling seriously broke after just buying the NSR P68 for a similar amount...no beer or wild women for me for the next month or so!!
  6. Red Racer in Brisbane has a few Spirit cars so he may carry some spares
  7. Steve61

    Nsr P68

    Got mine as well Matt....absolutely beautiful car with the usual hi quality NSR running gear underneath....luckily there's not too many releases of this quality or I'd be broke!!!!
  8. Thanks for the kind words guys. It is a "slotfire inspired" track layout - with a few subtle differences here and there. Very reliable track lap counter, averaged 1 1/2 laps to every Pakistani batsman in the one day series!!!
  9. Triggy, It's a liquid you put on the braids to give better electrical conduction and to provide lubrication on the rubbing surfaces. Parma, voodoo, Mura etc all make it and most hobby shops have it. I'm not even sure what it's made of these days, it used to be mostly Diesel fuel in the "old" days.
  10. I had a couple of guys from the forum over for a friendly get together a few weeks ago, and both seemed unfamiliar with braid conditioner. I thought it was pretty common to use it, but maybe it's not such a big thing these days with the better materails used? 10 years ago (when I was last into slot cars) it was very common to use it. Do many people on the forum use it?
  11. Steve61

    Gear Ratios

    I'm amazed that the slot.it gears mesh so well with such a wide range of tooth pitches - pinions that go from 8 to 11 teeth can mesh with crown gears from 23 to 30 teeth -all without any variation to the diameter of either the gear or pinion. The tooth profile or shape must be so cleverly designed that it can pull in the mating tooth over a wide range of pitches and soak up the difference without accumulating errors and binding up the gears. The guys at slot.it REALLY know their stuff!!!
  12. Steve61

    Gear Ratios

    I'm no guru, but as an engineer I can't help but have a go. The most important thing is that the gear and pinion are a meshing pair - made by the same manufacturer so that both the pitch and the tooth profile match, otherwise the car will run rough and vibrate. As the gear gets more teeth the dimeter increases, so that can be a limiting factor itself - the gear must be smaller than the tire OD (obviously) and also clear the slot in the chassis if it's inboard of the bearings. It would say go for the largest diameter gear you can get because the forces on the gear teeth will be lower eg a torque of 600 g.cm on the rear shaft will have a gear force of 750 grams at a gear radius of 0.8cm, but only 600 grams at 1.0 cm radius (2cm gear diameter) With pinions when the no. teeth gets too low, the tooth profiles start to undercut each other - 8 seems to be about the min. you see and you can definitely see the undercut on them. This compromises the normal profile of the tooth and is required so the gear tooth can enter the pinion and rotate and clear itself out. For smother running I'd recommend the largest pinion you can get to get the ratio you need. These aren't big factors and lot's of cars run well with smaller gears, but if you have the choice - largest pinion and gear you can get in the car.
  13. Dave, Use it as a good excuse to get another Slot.it controller!!
  14. Thanks for the kind words Rick. Dave, For a heavy 1:24 car the answer is definitely yes....go for the higher torque motor to get the acceleration around the bends and into the staight. That's why the big heavy muscle cars have big grunty motors - to get that torque to the back wheels.
  15. Dave, The torque is the "turning force" the motor has. It is the force avilable at the motor shaft at the voltage specified - that's what you need to know as well as the torque - what voltage is it referenced to. A lot of motor manufacturers quote it at 14.8 V. It's usually pretty linear down to zero volts so if it's quoted at 14.8V you can get a pretty good Idea what it will be at 12V (about 12/14.8 of the torque). For cars it's quoted in N-m, which is no good for slot cars because the scale is too high, so they use g.cm. Imagine putting a lever on the motor shaft 10cm long and putting 20g on the end that would be 200 g.cm torque (it's not grams per cm, this is wrong - it grams x cm's). When you go through a gear reduction, you multiply the torque by the gearing ratio, if it's 1:3, the torgue on the wheel shaft is 3 times higher and the speed three times lower. The final driving "force" then depends on the tyre outer diameter...a smaller wheel gives higher driving force.
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